From Red Lion, PA. to Brooklyn, NY. A 1972 Maytag DE806
- Thread starter Ultramatic
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Mike I am very happy with it. I like I only have to press power, then start and it automatically reuses the last cycle. No reprogramming. The laundry comes out very clean and a little dryer after the spin compared to the Kenmore Elite. The only thing, as I mentioned earlier, I wish it had more wash options. Eventually I'll get the matching dryer.
It is functionally, correct
And is one of at least two ways to put a 120 V cord on a 240 V dryer
Normally you would connect the green wire directly to the frame of the machine and remove the ground strap leave all the other wires where they were from the factory But move the blue wire to the center post where the white wires are and attach the white wire to the center post and the black wire to the post on the right side, the way Louie has it it will work fine, but he has his polarity backwards, with it this way, he could be electrocuted, changing the lightbulb, if he forgets to unplug the machine and touches the edge of the bulb.
John
And is one of at least two ways to put a 120 V cord on a 240 V dryer
Normally you would connect the green wire directly to the frame of the machine and remove the ground strap leave all the other wires where they were from the factory But move the blue wire to the center post where the white wires are and attach the white wire to the center post and the black wire to the post on the right side, the way Louie has it it will work fine, but he has his polarity backwards, with it this way, he could be electrocuted, changing the lightbulb, if he forgets to unplug the machine and touches the edge of the bulb.
John
Today I noticed a faint ozone odor coming from the dryer. That usually means the motor windings are beginning to overheat, wire insulation melting or the heating element. It continues to work fine. Tomorrow I'll be opening it up to see where the smell is coming from, and correct it if possible. Also need to give it a thorough cleaning and change the fluorescent lamp.
Remove the belts and carefully spin all of the pulleys, including the motor, and confirm they turn easily. Something may be binding up.
If that checks out okay, it may be burned contacts on the start switch.
Whatever it's, hopefully it's simple.
If that checks out okay, it may be burned contacts on the start switch.
Whatever it's, hopefully it's simple.
Ozone smell from an electric dryer
You would have to have a continuous arcing going on to produce ozone. It would not be ever caused by motor windings, or even the start switch in the dryer, you probably should check the dryer out but I don’t think you’re smelling ozone.
There are all kinds of smells a dryer could make, however, most common would be something in the household environment, being drawn over the heating element that can make all kinds of interesting smells that can cause concern.
And of course, the motor windings themselves could be starting to overheat from blocked air passages or insulation breakdown, which will cause them to short slightly, and start to earn the insulation on them.
John
You would have to have a continuous arcing going on to produce ozone. It would not be ever caused by motor windings, or even the start switch in the dryer, you probably should check the dryer out but I don’t think you’re smelling ozone.
There are all kinds of smells a dryer could make, however, most common would be something in the household environment, being drawn over the heating element that can make all kinds of interesting smells that can cause concern.
And of course, the motor windings themselves could be starting to overheat from blocked air passages or insulation breakdown, which will cause them to short slightly, and start to earn the insulation on them.
John
Ultramatic, thank you for making this thread. This dryer is so cool and the concept of using a thyristor, solenoid actuated cycle termination and metal moisture strip has me wanting to know more. Do have the service manual to this dryer by chance or know where to find it?
BTW I find the choice of wiring colors in this machine fascinating and rather eye candy. Like the green for the motor and blue and yellow as the hots on the terminal block. The twirls around some of the wires. Whom ever was tasked in wiring this dryer had fun- I wish I could have been there.
BTW I find the choice of wiring colors in this machine fascinating and rather eye candy. Like the green for the motor and blue and yellow as the hots on the terminal block. The twirls around some of the wires. Whom ever was tasked in wiring this dryer had fun- I wish I could have been there.
The issue seems to be emanating from the timer. It had developed an issue lately that you had to push and hold the start button for the dryer to start. Now the dryer suddenly stopped working and will not start. I'll open it up today to see if it's something I want to tackle.
Now it's working again when you push the start knob. I believe this may be a separate issue from the ozone smell.
Well then, so this was the culprit of the smell. This does not bode well.
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Time to replace the outlet and the power cord. And I'll keep checking everything else from there.
This is a common problem with 120 V dryers
Because they run such a long period of time drawing full amperage,
This should not be on a ground fault outlet they’re not durable enough for this type of current draw definitely get a 20 amp outlet even if it’s only on a 15 amp circuit.
When you replace the cord on the dryer be sure it’s a minimum of 14 gauge but it would be far better to get a 12 gauge cord then you’ll never have this problem again.
Glad the dryer itself isn’t burning up. I was skeptical when you said you smelled the arking from the outlet may have made an ozone type smell.
John
Because they run such a long period of time drawing full amperage,
This should not be on a ground fault outlet they’re not durable enough for this type of current draw definitely get a 20 amp outlet even if it’s only on a 15 amp circuit.
When you replace the cord on the dryer be sure it’s a minimum of 14 gauge but it would be far better to get a 12 gauge cord then you’ll never have this problem again.
Glad the dryer itself isn’t burning up. I was skeptical when you said you smelled the arking from the outlet may have made an ozone type smell.
John
I went with a <span id="productTitle" class="a-size-large product-title-word-break" style="font-size: 12pt;">Leviton GFWT2-W GFCI receptacle rated 20-amps. And a 10 gauge cord/plug. Overkill? Perhaps. This is a 20-amp circuit. And for kicks, I am replacing the original fluorescent bulb with an LED equivalent. But I am not out of the woods yet. There are other issues that need to be addressed.
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Thicker is always better.
New 10 gauge wire and plug.
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New 10 gauge wire and plug.
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I followed the wiring diagram for the DE806 and no dice. Will not turn on. The outlet is good.
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Thanks to a member of a group on FB, I corrected the wiring.
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Now for the intermittent heating and the drum light failing to come on.
