Do you hear an audible click from the high limit thermostat when it cycles the heating element off? If it’s cycling on the high limit thermostat despite having clear and unobstructed venting, it may mean the high limit thermostat is getting on the weak side. Some of the 06 series HOH dryers built from 1966 to 1975 use a L150-20 high limit thermostat, others used a L200-30 (L190-40 will work as well).
From Red Lion, PA. to Brooklyn, NY. A 1972 Maytag DE806
- Thread starter Ultramatic
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An update
The drum light continues not to work. Checked socket, even connected it directly, and it worked fine. The wiring is intact. So I am pretty sure it's the door switch Part # Y301336. Found NOS on ebay.
The shutting off prematurely issue has been resolved (loose connection at baffle).
Now some lube, new drum seal and hopefully it will be trouble free for many years.
The drum light continues not to work. Checked socket, even connected it directly, and it worked fine. The wiring is intact. So I am pretty sure it's the door switch Part # Y301336. Found NOS on ebay.
The shutting off prematurely issue has been resolved (loose connection at baffle).
Now some lube, new drum seal and hopefully it will be trouble free for many years.
Found the seal
The part # is 311534. I was surprised how expensive they have become.
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The part # is 311534. I was surprised how expensive they have become.
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Maytag replacement door switch, Gemline K35-276 (Maytag Y301336).
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Maytag halo of heat front felt seal
These front felt seals that glued to the front of the drum are super easy to make so it should never be a problem if these become obsolete and hard to get.
You don’t even really need to put the front seal on the gas models if you like.
These front felt seals that glued to the front of the drum are super easy to make so it should never be a problem if these become obsolete and hard to get.
You don’t even really need to put the front seal on the gas models if you like.
Not as dusty as I thought it would be. Turned out the front felt seal was in very good condition. No need to replace it for now. A good vacuuming and it was looking much better.
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<script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>Next up, door switch and lube.
Cleaning a halo of heat dryer
The lint accumulated near the heating element would never be there if the dryer were being used on 240 V, it would be fun if you connected it to 240 V without cleaning it you’d get a lot of smoke for a little while.
Hi Louie, if you have that connected to a 20 amp separate circuit, I would replace the 1200 W heater you’re using with a 2000 W heater. It would speed up the dryer noticeably if you want it to be faster at least.
Hopefully the door switch will cure the problem with the interior light not working, I do think there’s a chance you don’t have it converted properly at the terminal block and you don’t have 120 V getting to the light but can’t really tell without checking the dryer personally.
John
The lint accumulated near the heating element would never be there if the dryer were being used on 240 V, it would be fun if you connected it to 240 V without cleaning it you’d get a lot of smoke for a little while.
Hi Louie, if you have that connected to a 20 amp separate circuit, I would replace the 1200 W heater you’re using with a 2000 W heater. It would speed up the dryer noticeably if you want it to be faster at least.
Hopefully the door switch will cure the problem with the interior light not working, I do think there’s a chance you don’t have it converted properly at the terminal block and you don’t have 120 V getting to the light but can’t really tell without checking the dryer personally.
John
Door switch
Out with the old, in with the new.
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Out with the old, in with the new.
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New belts
The drive belt was beginning to fray, sooo, OEM replacements.
The drive belt was beginning to fray, sooo, OEM replacements.
A hick-up
I decided to break it all down for cleaning/lubing. I can't remove the drum wheel from the shaft. I removed the retaining bolt and if memory serves me it should just slip off the shaft. No dice. Sprayed Free all, nope. I removed this before years ago, am I missing a step?
I decided to break it all down for cleaning/lubing. I can't remove the drum wheel from the shaft. I removed the retaining bolt and if memory serves me it should just slip off the shaft. No dice. Sprayed Free all, nope. I removed this before years ago, am I missing a step?
Removing the drum pulley on a halo of heat dryer
With the bolt out, just grab the pulley on both sides and twist back-and-forth. It will come right off.
Use potholders or rags to protect your hands. The edge of the pulley can be sharp.
May be stuck because the Bolt might have been tightened on the smooth part of the shaft instead of the flattened part. But it will still come off easily.
John
With the bolt out, just grab the pulley on both sides and twist back-and-forth. It will come right off.
Use potholders or rags to protect your hands. The edge of the pulley can be sharp.
May be stuck because the Bolt might have been tightened on the smooth part of the shaft instead of the flattened part. But it will still come off easily.
John
Nope. Not even with a heat gun.
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All it does is turn slightly, left and right, independently from the shaft then it grabs on to the shaft.
Is the sheet metal pulley loose on the steel hub?
If the sheet metal has come loose from the steel hub, you’ll have to grab the steel hub with a big vice grip and work it off that way
The other way to get this office to take a propane torch to the hub heat until the paint smokes then it will come right off. A heat gun would be fairly useless unless it’s a really hot one, but you would have to heat the metal till the paint is damaged, boiling water would have almost no effect. It’s just not hot enough.
If the sheet metal has come loose from the steel hub, you’ll have to grab the steel hub with a big vice grip and work it off that way
The other way to get this office to take a propane torch to the hub heat until the paint smokes then it will come right off. A heat gun would be fairly useless unless it’s a really hot one, but you would have to heat the metal till the paint is damaged, boiling water would have almost no effect. It’s just not hot enough.
The pulley is quite loose now. I can turn it completely. Totally independent from the shaft. It almost feels like the shaft is warped somehow and not letting the pulley come off. The vise grips I currently have are too small to attach to the center hub. I will have to get a larger one tomorrow. I do have a propane torch, so I can also try that next.
Maytag: 1 Blowtorch: 0
Didn't budge. I just had a terrible thought that perhaps a piece of the set bolt broke off and is keeping the pulley from being removed.
Nothing is broken off your set screw, does the hub twist at all on the shaft at all ?, you had said it turned back and forth before.
I really don't know why you are trying to take the pulley off anyway, didn't you have this all apart a few years ago ?
If so it should not need lubercation for about 20 year.
I really don't know why you are trying to take the pulley off anyway, didn't you have this all apart a few years ago ?
If so it should not need lubercation for about 20 year.
The pulley rotates freely independently of the drum. If I put back the set bolt, it locks up with the drum and works normally.
