From Red Lion, PA. to Brooklyn, NY. A 1972 Maytag DE806

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Update:

 

 

A member from my Facebook group suggested to wipe down the metal bars on the baffles of the drum with rubbing alcohol. Well that cured the dryer shutting off prematurely. I'm surprised it was such a simple fix. Now it continues to run until the clothes are almost totally dry (Permanent Press) and the bell rings correctly. However it barely gets warm, not hot. After the cycle ended I ran it again on Permanent Press. This time it ran for 10 minutes or so, but it got HOT. The clothes were totally dry. This is how the dryer used to work originally. Could it be the cycling thermostat is failing? They are still readily available. Or perhaps the High Limit thermostat? Tomorrow I am opening the dryer up for some cleaning and lubrication.

 

I still have to check the drum light bulb on why it does not light, and to check whether the drum seal needs to be replaced.
 
Do you hear an audible click from the high limit thermostat when it cycles the heating element off? If it’s cycling on the high limit thermostat despite having clear and unobstructed venting, it may mean the high limit thermostat is getting on the weak side. Some of the 06 series HOH dryers built from 1966 to 1975 use a L150-20 high limit thermostat, others used a L200-30 (L190-40 will work as well).
 
An update

 

 

The drum light continues not to work. Checked socket, even connected it directly, and it worked fine. The wiring is intact. So I am pretty sure it's the door switch Part # Y301336. Found NOS on ebay.

 

The shutting off prematurely issue has been resolved (loose connection at baffle).

 

Now some lube, new drum seal and hopefully it will be trouble free for many years.
 
Reply #62

I assume that’s the seal that goes on the front of the drum which prevents metal items from falling on the heating element and shorting it out.
 
Maytag halo of heat front felt seal

These front felt seals that glued to the front of the drum are super easy to make so it should never be a problem if these become obsolete and hard to get.

You don’t even really need to put the front seal on the gas models if you like.
 
 

 

Not as dusty as I thought it would be. Turned out the front felt seal was in very good condition. No need to replace it for now. A good vacuuming and it was looking much better.

 

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Next up, door switch and lube.
 
Cleaning a halo of heat dryer

The lint accumulated near the heating element would never be there if the dryer were being used on 240 V, it would be fun if you connected it to 240 V without cleaning it you’d get a lot of smoke for a little while.

Hi Louie, if you have that connected to a 20 amp separate circuit, I would replace the 1200 W heater you’re using with a 2000 W heater. It would speed up the dryer noticeably if you want it to be faster at least.

Hopefully the door switch will cure the problem with the interior light not working, I do think there’s a chance you don’t have it converted properly at the terminal block and you don’t have 120 V getting to the light but can’t really tell without checking the dryer personally.

John
 
Door switch

 

 

Out with the old, in with the new.

 

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A hick-up

 

 

I decided to break it all down for cleaning/lubing. I can't remove the drum wheel from the shaft. I removed the retaining bolt and if memory serves me it should just slip off the shaft. No dice. Sprayed Free all, nope. I removed this before years ago, am I missing a step?

 

 
Removing the drum pulley on a halo of heat dryer

With the bolt out, just grab the pulley on both sides and twist back-and-forth. It will come right off.

Use potholders or rags to protect your hands. The edge of the pulley can be sharp.

May be stuck because the Bolt might have been tightened on the smooth part of the shaft instead of the flattened part. But it will still come off easily.
John
 
Is the sheet metal pulley loose on the steel hub?

If the sheet metal has come loose from the steel hub, you’ll have to grab the steel hub with a big vice grip and work it off that way

The other way to get this office to take a propane torch to the hub heat until the paint smokes then it will come right off. A heat gun would be fairly useless unless it’s a really hot one, but you would have to heat the metal till the paint is damaged, boiling water would have almost no effect. It’s just not hot enough.
 
 

 

The pulley is quite loose now. I can turn it completely. Totally independent from the shaft. It almost feels like the shaft is warped somehow and not letting the pulley come off. The vise grips I currently have are too small to attach to the center hub. I will have to get a larger one tomorrow. I do have a propane torch, so I can also try that next.
 
Nothing is broken off your set screw, does the hub twist at all on the shaft at all ?, you had said it turned back and forth before.

I really don't know why you are trying to take the pulley off anyway, didn't you have this all apart a few years ago ?

If so it should not need lubercation for about 20 year.
 

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