GE Clothes Washer Water Levels - Pffft!

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Sep 26, 2016
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Location
Madison, WI
G'Day all! I'm disappointed with my new GE clothes washer (GTWN4250D1WS) primarily because of the low water levels. You can never really wash more than half a load without ripping the clothes up. Has anyone here "hacked" the new level controls for this washer (pictured)? I've tried. Three of the screws sit on a teeter-totter inside the level switch and are inter-connected. I can't for the life of me get the water level raised in this machine.

I should have just rebuilt the clutch on my old GE as I was more than happy with it.

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Yes,

and that is why many here prefer older machines. Of course with our higher water bills these days, I almost wish my 6 year old he washer was still operating like when it did save water when it was new. Give it a few years, it may suddenly be filling up more like mine does. LoL.
Is the pic you posted the pressure switch? It looks like it uses fuzzy logic measurements taken from the load sensing from the control board of dry spin speed, tub sway, and or weight for water level.
Suppose there is an air lock in it at times?
My other complaint is water temps. At dinner the other night, I splashed olive oil on a blue shirt. Not a lot, just a bit from my bread dipping. I pre treated it with oxyclean, set the cycle for the longest on extra heavy soil on warm. The stain did not come out.
It seems when the ambient temp. is above 72 degrees f., no hot water at all enters the washer unless I select hot. Warm is the same as cool, cold, or tap cold.
Obvioisly the water temp. thermistor is calibrated that way.
 
it is getting harder and harder to make adjustments to these newer machines.....

even though some have pressure switches, adjusting them may not make a difference, as its computer controlled, which just reads what the pressure is, all the adjustments in the world wont make it change its mind.....

seems manufacturers are concentrating on more ways to avoid us from making adjustments, not to mention not being able to bypass lid switches and load locks....they work on making them efficient, but not effective....

you can sometimes 'trick' some machines into adding more water, by displacing air in the pressure switch, soaking the load with water making the machine think its a heavier load....or just add more water yourself, and some machines sense too much water and will trigger the drain pump......

as for water temps, and dubbing down......we have been over this until were blue in the face......YES, they are being dubbed down.....but first, lets look at what YOUR offering the machine, what is your water heater set at....at 120 a 10 degree drop is a lot, so yeah, your Warm has turned to cool......

where as mine is set at 160.....even a 20 degree drop, I can still get a very warm wash....

not to mention, depending on your area, the incoming COLD water will quickly lower your temps....

you have more factors to consider than just the machine dubbed down the temps.....
 
A quick peek inside for anyone interested....
The green, white and black plastic cups accept the three-pronged fork.
(I run the 2nd rinse on this machine also as the amount of water used in the first rinse is a trickle.)

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Yes,

the Normal cycle rinse is only a spray rinse of about four to five tub rotations.
Not sufficient when the wash is a 1/2 tub full deep water wash that now needs more detergent than the low water normal wash when new. The second rinse is a deep rinse.
I usually use the wrinkle control which gives me an automatic deep rinse, or hand wash which is also.
After about 6 months following the 2015 seal, bearing, and gear case replacement, it acquired a mind of it's own.
I may try a front loader next time.
 
I think some of those dials adjust the reset time rather than the trip point (water level). Key is knowing what contacts control the water level and finding the right screw. And as mentioned, it could be that the electronic control is making that call.

Do you have the tech sheet that goes to your machine?
 
Yes it does but always used on manual.

I did a round of adjusting the "most likely suspect" screws one at a time and back again with no level change so yes, I've about given up thinking the computer has this. My other thought was maybe a combination of screws which is why I grabbed a cheap level controller on Ebay and peaked (destroyed) inside to see which was doing what.
 
That's encouraging. Maybe I'll string up a manometer type contraption with some clear tubing so I can better see what the adjustments do rather than poking and prodding this thing in a live machine.
 

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