GE Combination refrigerator BGS-13? Identification & general questions

[funktionalart]

Down the block from me is the refrigerator shown in photos. Now, I'm usually all about Frigidaire of this era vs. GE...just a personal thing (and I REALLY don't like pink!). But I'm interested in it anyway.

I'm curious how old this one is? I'm thinking somewhere between '57 and '60. Haven't ever seen one with pull-out vs. adjustable lazy suzan style shelving on these. Although I've yet to go check this unit out, I already am told it doesn't get cold.

The "troublesome" GE's I've seen were the ones with the iced over coils and wonky cold controls. Anyone of you have any thoughts on what are typical areas of concern with these Combinations at this stage in life? What's availability like of things like OEM replacement cold controls/fans/compressor relays specific to this model?

Ralph: is this the same unit you had/have?

 

[pulltostart]

I don't think this is a 1957 or a 1958, but possibly 1959 or 1960.  At 13 cu. ft., it is the smaller bottom mount model.  Too bad it doesn't cool, otherwise looks good.  Good luck with this one!

 

lawrence

 

[combo52]

1959-60 GE Ref

This one is a manual defrost freezer model so at least its is less complicated than the Frost Guard models.

With out more information I would not try to guess what is wrong, this ref was in the time period of compressors that wore out way too early, however most GE refs that lasted this long already had the newer more durable compressor installed.

 

[ken]

This has the 59-61 style door handle. Im thinking 1959 due to it being very close but not exactly the same as the 1960 I got a few weeks ago. Having pull out instead of swing out shelves has me a little confused though. And it looks like the egg storage is different too. I wonder if it could be a less expensive variant?

The freezer uses a fan to cool. If the upper compartment cools but not the freezer could be the door switch that turns the fan off when the door is opened is bad not allowing the fan to run. If the compressor runs but it doesn't cool at all it could be just a bad thermostat or a problem with the sealed system (leak). If its dead could be the relay. I have a 58 GE top freezer that runs great but doesn't cool. Ive always figured it developed a leak and the Freon was lost.

Others here would probably know better than me about availability of both OEM and universal thermostats, fan motors and relays. But I from what Ive read here I don't think universal replacements are difficult to find.

Heres the thread showing the one I recently got if you'd like to take a look.

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www.automaticwasher.org

 

[fridgenut]

That is one nice fridge

I usually don't like these generations of GE's as much as the earlier stuff. However, I see that this one is a manual defrost model. That makes things more interesting in my book.

Anyways...I would check the electrical systems before really calling it dead. Old GE's do die but many of them refuse to fade away...

 

[combo52]

1959-60 combination refrigerator

This refrigerator does not have a fan in the freezer, and if the compressor runs but doesn't cool it cannot be a bad cold control thermostat.

 

[rp2813]

Interesting Model

I agree that the exterior treatments indicate 1959-61.

 

What's throwing me is the standard shelving in the fridge section.  Based on the pix above, the non Frost Guard models didn't get the swing-out shelving system, or at least not immediately in 1959 when the Frost Guard feature was launched.

 

I would perhaps pass on this fridge even if it was in proper working order because of the shelving, but as far as the non-cooling issue goes, John is correct that if the system makes noise like it's running but doesn't cool, the cold control is not the problem.  Unfortunately, the cold control is infinitely easier to replace than the compressor.

 

Allen, I have the manual-defrost top freezer model that's a couple of years older than this one and has the spinning shelves as opposed to the type that swing out.

 

[ken]

My apologies for the misinformation. I stand corrected. A bad thermostat would cause an under or over cooling problem with too short or too long running times wouldn't it?

It doesn't have a fan in the freezer? Then how do items placed in the freezer basket stay frozen when not in direct contact with the freezer surface? What would be the difference in the way the freezer functions/freezes items in this model and the one I got recently like this one which does have a fan in the freezer? [this post was last edited: 6/14/2017-16:06]

 

[goatfarmer]

Depending on the price, it may be worth pursuing. As long as the present owner doesn't plan to retire on the proceeds....

 

[rp2813]

Ken, yes, when my Combo's cold control failed, the whole thing would have frozen over if I hadn't noticed two things:  That the serpentine coil had a thicker coating of frost that I'd ever seen before, and that the fridge coincidentally hadn't shut off for quite a while.  Turning the thumb wheel to a lower setting didn't change anything.

 

I don't know how the freezer works in the manual defrost models like mine, but GE marketed them as true zero-degree freezers beginning with the first ones in 1948 and I can attest that mine bears that out.  I guess it's so cold in there that it doesn't require contact with the surface to achieve that level of cold in all of the contents.  I think this is also why there's a dedicated area in the freezer door shelf (notoriously warmest zone in any fridge or freezer) for ice cream, otherwise it would be hard as a brick.

 

I'm sure this constant zero degree capability has to do with separating the two systems.  Even the single door Combos have a mullion that separates the freezer and a thick insulated door on it that snaps securely closed, basically accomplishing the same thing as a two-door Combo.

 

The serpentine coil in the fridge section on mine gets down well below zero while the compressor is running, and it warms up to 37 or so before allowing the compressor to kick in again.  This is probably similar to how single door fridges with just an evaporator box operate, so maintaining zero in that kind of arrangement  isn't possible.

 

I don't think there's much difference in how a separate freezer model with a fan maintains zero as opposed to one that doesn't have a fan.  The difference in types with a fan is more about the fresh food section, at least on the ones that no longer use an exposed serpentine coil.  

 

Eventually all manufacturers moved to a system that used the freezer's evaporator coil to cool both sections, and the fan baffles simply routed more air to circulate through the freezer than in the fridge.  Typically, on a modern fridge you can feel a strong blast of cold air blowing out from the back wall, but in the fridge section it's just a wispy air flow since you don't want it any cooler than about 37 in there, but the air is still being drawn from a single cooling coil in the freezer for both.  This is why if you place tall items in front of the vent blowing cold air into the fridge section, they'll likely freeze.

 

[circlew]

The church I belong to used to have a GE bottom-freezer model. I always assumed it was a '59, as that was when the new addition including kitchen was built. However, the door handle was not like that shown, but rather the style that was continuous along the side of the door like that of the '57 & '58 models.

It may well have been a left over model that they got. The owners of the local GE dealer were (and currently are) members of the church, and they installed the cabinets, countertops, sinks and appliances. Some of them they may have donated.

 

[norgeway]

I wouldnt trade

ONE of these for all the Frost Free fridges ever made..Your Ice Cream stays hard as a brick and your vegetables stay fresh!

 

[funktionalart]

Slight update~

I went over to see this in person a few hours ago. Attached are pics, including the GE Serial number/ID tag. Model number BJ 13TC, and serial number has a "60" in it, which I *presume* indicates 1960 model year: TT601626

Still alot of thinking to do about it, since I didn't have time to do alot of testing. I am thinking the compressor relay may not be allowing the compressor to start--I think what I heard kick on was the condensor fan on the underside of chassis (it blows nice and strong)...I am just not positive the compressor kicked in. The kitchen was a tight space, arthritic knees were killing me and I was tight on time, so....

I did note the HUGE amount of dust/hair which is PACKED all around the condenser coils. This thing needs a major undercarriage clear-out. The gorgeous exterior had me fooled!

Now, for the 2 digit selling price, I may just buy it because it's so damned clean and tidy I would be willing to take a gamble and bring it home just to see if I can't get it running myself. I'll sleep on it for now~

 

[funktionalart]

Manual Defrost vs. Frost proof on this one~

Have to admit--I feel really stupid about this fridge as regards defrost method. The owner manual says these models ARE frost proof. Looking in the freezer, I don't see any sign of it being one...and no badging declaring it. Wasn't able to see underneath well enough to locate a defrost timer, either. Must mean I need to bring it home and find out!

 

[rp2813]

The Claim Was Lame

GE's marketing material included the claim that there was never any need to defrost, but they didn't bother to add that this convenience applied only to the fresh food section.  

 

I consider it false advertising, since there is nothing automatic about defrosting the freezer other than the draining of the melted ice, which eliminates bailing or sopping up.  It's still a hands-on operation and the freezer has to be emptied.

 

I guess if you had a cooler big enough, you could remove the entire basket from the freezer during defrosting, presuming there was no tendency for it to fuse itself to the freezer drawer glides.

 

I suggest proceeding with caution.  Condensers that were never brushed or vacuumed and are caked with dust and pet fur are probably the number one cause of compressor failure among all refrigerators, new and old.  My sister's '90s bottom freezer Amana failed for that exact reason. 

 

On the other hand, I bought an early '60s Coldspot bottom freezer in the mid '80s and it behaved the same as this GE, although the condenser was relatively dust-free.  I found a wire had come detached from the compressor relay, probably during the process of moving, either to the thrift store or to my house.  If this GE hasn't budged for years, I doubt you'll be as lucky as I was.

 

[combo52]

The Claim Was Lame

GE and many other manufacturers were a little sneaky when cycle defrost refs were really coming into the market in a big way.

 

But if you read the literature GE never claimed that the freezer was self defrosting, instead they used claims like you will never have to defrost the fresh food section and anyway you cut it these two door refs were light years ahead of of the old single door refs that needed defrosting sometimes as often as once a month.

 

Two door refs like this seldom needed defrosting more than once a year and in light use many owners let them go a few years without defrosting.

 

Overall this is a neat ref but if you want to use it I would pass it, these still had fiberglass insulation and if you could see how compressed and wet the insulation is under the freezer floor you will understand why these often do not keep an even temperature in the freezer and cost so much to run. If you plug a ref like this in it is often hard to hear the compressor as they are pretty quite, and even quieter if they are not doing any work which happens when it either has lost its Freon charge or the compressor is worn out [ lost its compression ] which happened to ALL GE refs of this era. When ever I consider a GE ref of this age I look at the compressor to see if it has been changed, it it has there will be a 2X4"tag wired on a line going to the compressor that lists the GE Pt# the Freon charge etc.

 

My 1960 GE FG upright freezer will barley keep anything frozen if you put it on the freezer floor because of the compressed insulation and yet the thing will keep the main space at zero degrees F. And as a side bonus heated the pantry it was in for over 20 years.

 

[panthera]

It's so pretty

I guess the real questions are:

How heavy is it? If we know the new shipping weight and the current weight, we know whether the insulation is sopping wet. Might very well be. Might not be - despite the service manuals, I've seen some fibreglass insulated refrigerators shipped with the fibreglass still sealed in a plastic film - we did an International Harvester that was, to my great shock.

Worth finding out, 'cause, if it is soaking wet, then John is right - it's an enormous argument against it.

Second, test equipment to start the compressor without the internal electrical/electronics is no big problem to rig up. I'd definitely do that. If the compressor is still alive and if it's not worn out (I'm no expert on these, but from all I've read, GE was making bad compressors at that point in time) then, I'd go for it.

Just, I'm a sucker for anything in PANK! or Turquaw!. And the only thing in smoked avocado I'd consider would be a Thumper.

 

[funktionalart]

The deal is done...

I went and picked it up today. Photos and info to come shortly.

 

[funktionalart]

Update on the pink GE

Right--got it in the house today and found the following (and answers alot of questions above):

*INSULATION* : All present, all dry. Mildly dusty as expected on the undercarriage areas.

*Model Year / Model name* Oct. 1960 BJ-13 a MANUAL Defrosting freezer version, according to the User Manual that came with it.

Door gaskets are astonishingly white and in excellent order and all the chrome work is GORGEOUS. Cosmetically this thing is in pretty damned nice order...

*Compressor* looks to be original to build--John / Combo52 would know for sure, but I think it is, The Start relay is dated May 1960, so clearly nothing under here has ever been replaced. Took the relay out to check wires--one looked greenish-sticky-mildly corroded so I clipped it back, stripped insulation a bit and reattached. My prayer at this point is that may be the only thing wrong...but not holding out tons of hope...

Aforementioned loads of dust/hair in the condenser turned out to be not true. The first night I tried to look under there (at the seller's house), what I was actually seeing was dusty grey/hairy insulation. Once I got it home and on its side, I found the entire underside of machine is actually one of the tidier ones of this age I've ever seen (about as nice as the '63 Coldspot I got earlier last year--some of ya probably saw the pics I posted of that one when I bought it). Vacuumed it all out anyway and it all looks like it will function fine (provided tomorrow's test start doesn't nosedive!).

All I really know is that this fridge was with original owner until 2-3 years ago, and hasn't cooled for the current owner for about a year. Going to plug it in tomorrow and see what goes on...lotsa pics below! It was a dirt cheap purchase--so if it turns out to still not want to cool, I will use it as a dry goods storage pantry until I can make it run again sometime in the future.