GE Combination Wall-Mount Fridge repairs...

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turbokinetic

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Jun 23, 2018
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Location
Northport, Alabama USA
So, our fellow member Sarah Purdue has bought her Mid Century Modern wall mounted GE Combination fridge here to get some much-needed repairs done.

 

These things are very interesting, and very awkward to handle.  I built a repair stand to support and provide mobility to the machine during repairs. It is a little too high for accessing some angles on the unit; however it is high enough to allow for access to the bottom of the cabinet. The stand was built to be a repair / test / painting stand; so there are some compromises.

 

I have been videoing the process, as much as I can, with two videos up at this time.

 

The fridge was acquired in non-working condition. It was apparent that previous repairs had been done, by looking at the unit. The compressor had a support bar welded on top of it. Looked like it was done with a farmyard class AC-only stick welder. That was to support the fan shroud. The manual showed a tube-and-fin condenser mounted vertically in a shroud in front of the fan. This one had a coiled, non-finned copper tube condenser in front of the fan, with a "piece of" another GE condenser mounted to the side of the compressor.

 

At first I assumed the condenser setup was factory, but after finding the welded-on support, and looking closely at the manual pictures - I don't think it was. Another local friend looked at it as well, and said he's seen that coiled condenser before but it was not a GE and was a much smaller HP unit.

 

We powered on the fridge and the compressor started right up. Unfortunately, it drew very little power and didn't cool. I don't have the special clamp-on style GE service tool, so I was forced to use a line puncturing tap. When this was installed, the low side pressure was in the low 20's. Thinking it was low on charge, I tried adding refrigerant in the interest of having more pressure and searching for a leak with the Freon Sniffer tool.

 

The compressor would not start again. We tried capacitors, Supco relays, and other tricks - but she would not go. Thinking the system could have a blockage, I cracked open the high-side port. Liquid refrigerant sprayed out. All the pressure was trapped in the high side of the unit.

 

Even hours later, the compressor would still not start, and the pressure was still present at the high side. In looking at the unit, there seemed to be a splice in the capillary tube with extra tube added. This looked crude and poorly done. Expecting this to be where the blockage is, I removed the condensing unit and made further checks.

 

The heat exchanger assemble was sort of mangled. It appeared that people had damaged it trying to replace the thermostat in years past.

While the compressor was on the bench, I replaced the GE clamp-on service ports with modern 1/4" SAE ports.

 

Video:

 

(Continued)

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Repairs begin...

It was about this time that the possibly undersized condenser became apparent. In digging around my shop, I went through old Frigidaire parts and other random stuff but was unable to find anything suitable. Then I found a parallel-flow cooler which was for another project that never was used. It seemed to be about right. Has fins in it and should have more than enough heat transfer area for the 1/4 HP compressor.

 

I soldered copper tube stubs into it for ease of connection, then checked it in a sink of water at 250 PSI. The fridge has a 235 PSI test pressure so if it took the 250 it would be safer than safe LOL!

 

To use this efficiently, the fan needs to draw through it with shrouding around the sides of the condenser. To make that happen, I repurposed some old filing cabinet dividers, hospital bed frame steel, and the shell of a deceased microwave oven. Once it was all painted black, it looks the part. :)

 

The General Electric PC36 compressor has an oil cooler "loop" which is a large-diameter pipe U-bend coming from the base of the compressor. This needs air circulation around it from the fan. The bottom of the new condenser shroud has two slots which accommodate the oil cooler pipe. There is a gap beside the pipe, so a lot of forced draft from the condenser fan will rush in across the oil cooler.

 

The next issue was the plugged capillary tube in the heat exchanger. I think the thermostat shorted out on it possibly, or the tube got crimped during repairs. Either way it was bad. So I built a new heat exchanger. The return line is 5/16" tube, so I used that line to pre-form the shape of the heat exchanger how I wanted it to lay in the cabinet. Once the shape was done, I then soldered cap tube to the return line, creating the heat exchange portion of the device. That was then wrapped over with cork tar-tape insulation; which was further wrapped with rubber splicing tape. that seals it and gives it a cleaner look.

 

The capillary tube is sold by Supco. They have a chart inside the package which gives a guideline to the length of the tube, and the size of the tube - based on compressor horsepower and refrigerant gas in use. I would have preferred to measure the original tube inner diameter but couldn't locate a suitable tool to do that.

 

Once that was installed, another shot of nitrogen and bubble check revealed no leaks, so the vacuum pump has been in operation overnight. Today I hope to make a function test!

 

 Here is part 2 of the video:

 

Thanks for your interest!

Sincerely,

David

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GE Wall Refrigerator Sealed System Repairs

Wow David it looks like you will have this refrigerator running soon.

Some thoughts

The condenser set up is original, GE used a coiled condenser near the fan and the smaller tube and wire condenser behind the compressor.

Do you think the compressor has ever been changed to the newer improved design ?

To test the compressor GE suggests seeing how much vacuum it can pull, it should be very close to 30" other wise it is worn out.

If you have to change the compressor I would adapt a modern compressor as the originals ran pretty hot and used a lot of power.

If anyone needs it I have a NIB compressor and complete evaporator and heat exchanger for one of these wall refs that I would sell.

John L.
 
David,

Your talent, skills and patience are just awesome!  I don't know beans about what you're doing, but your videos are so interesting I can't help but watch and listen.  Sarah is soooo fortunate to have access to you and your shop to bring her refrigerator back to life.  Makes me really wish that I could have used you about 10 years ago when my 1958 GE Combination bit the dust.

 

lawrence

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GE Wall Refrigerator Sealed System Repairs

Good news David the compressor and condenser assembly in the ref is the official GE replacement Hi-Side, the condensers are correct and hopefully the compressor is still good. It looks a little crude the way a bracket was welded to the top of the compressor because this was a low production replacement part from GE.

Attached pictures of a complete Hi-Side replacement compressor that I have NIB.

John L.

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Thanks!

Thanks to all of you for the positive comments!  I really appreciate it.

 

John, that is amazing that they used this small coiled condenser for a replacement unit design.  I'm sure the one in Sarah's fridge was one of the units as in your picture; however a subsequent compressor failure happened and yet another new GE compressor was installed. The second time, they modified the replacement high side and adapted a compressor from some other GE high side.  I say this because of how the lines were fabricated, spliced, and oddly bent. Furthermore, the compressor is a newer one without the embossed areas on top as your picture shows. Finally, the coiled condenser mounting points were a hackjob. The top point did fit into the welded-on top bracket. On yours, the lower points have a bracket clamped over the oil cooler tubes to give it a point for grommet supports. On this one, the bottom of the condenser coil was riding directly against the oil cooler, with cable ties.  The two bottom pins which would have ridden in the grommets were just hanging freely. So it obviously started out as an original GE wall-mount replacement high-side, that was further adapted with a more generic GE replacement compressor.

The new parallel-flow condenser seems to be very efficient. The unit was using less than 250 watts when at temperature and had seemingly plenty of cooling power.

 

Today I got the wiring done; including a new junction box at the condensing unit and 3-wire grounded power cord.

 

In the video I go over more info. There were complications with a bad charging hose, but I didn't 'waste' as much refrigerant as I thought...  because it ended up being overcharged in spite of the messup. Once the charge was adjusted, it easily got sub-zero in the freezer and a hard frost across the refrigerator compartment evaporatir coil.

 

At the first test, the control wouldn't cycle off. I took it out and opened it up, finding nothing obviously wrong. A little Lucan Chain and Cable Lubricant (tacky oil that doesn't run off) was used on the mechanism in the control. After that, it cycles as it should!

 

I added some extra insulation to replace what may have been lost; and re-sealed the top cover with new cork-tar-tape. Things are looking pretty good for this one. :)  

 

I also repaired the under-cabinet countertop light and storage shelf. It got a new GFCI outlet, protecting the 2-wire outlet and the fluorescent light circuit. The original ballasts were good, but the lamps and starters were not, so they got renewed.

 

Today's video:

 

 

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David,

Those "cabinettes" were designed to be installed under standard, 12" deep wall cabinets.  However, they could also be installed under this wall-mount refrigerator.  In the case of the later, the cabinettes would be installed against the wall, flush with the rear of the refrigerator.  I don't know if they were anchored to the wall (behind) or the refrigerator (above).  If to the refrigerator, the mounting holes would be located in the rear half of the underside of the refrigerator, not the front half.

 

lawrence
 
Thanks John!  Happy you're enjoying the videos and I appreciate your feedback on my projects.

 

As for the Samsung fridges. I would expect they fight the same issues GE did with the Combination design; in that it can't keep the freezer at a low enough temperature without over-cooling the fresh food compartment. There's a lot of info in the GE manual devoted to the control and the system's limitations due to the dual evaporator design. I expect that Samsung has probably used some very cheaply manufactured parts to try to overcome this limitation. 

 

Whenever I want a laugh I walk through the appliance section of Lowe's and look at the high-end fridges. The insanely complicated double-door design always makes me laugh. Can you say, junk after 5 years? None of that door sealing mechanism will be sustainable.  Also they have knockoff of the GE Combination roll-out bottom freezer design. The difference is, the freezer carriage (not sure the correct term) feels HORRIBLY cheap and flimsy. It seems like just opening it normally is flexing things and it's about to come off the track.

 

Thanks again for posting the pictures of the NOS high-side for these.  I got a NOS high-side for a different model fridge, with a multi-layer serpentine condenser. Originally, I was going to adapt that to Sarah's fridge but the compressor in hers looked to be relatively new, and it sounds perfectly un-worn. 

 

Seeing how these are now out of production and once they are gone they are gone - I wanted to save the new one for a future repair if needed. 

 

 

 
 
Reply#9 

Thank you Lawrence. I appreciate this!  I've been working to get the fridge and cabinet ready for painting before I go back out of town for work, and have focused on technical repairs. Need to investigate how it mounts so that if any fabrication is necessary it can be done before painting.
 
Dave, the quality and neatness of your work is outstanding.  I'm thinking you may have actually improved on the original design here.  

 

By the time I worked for GE as an appliance tech, the wall mounted refrigerators were not generally repaired by factory service techs anymore, but my Dad worked on them when they were new.  After watching your excellent videos, I now have a better understanding of why my Dad hated those refrigerators so much, and If anyone wanted one repaired he would run away as fast as he could.
 
Very exciting!

David, thank you for working on this fridge. I'm enjoying your pictures, videos and explanations.

Yes, the cabinettes have sliding glass doors. All four are intact. I have them here and have been polishing the handles which were very corroded. I believe they are chrome plated steel, but even with very conservative abrasives--600 then 1000 and 1200 grit sandpapers--it looks like I'm removing the chrome because the corrosion was so bad. I'm going to polish all four down to the steel and wax them.

Lawrence, the cabinettes will have to go under my fridge. It's a small kitchen, and the fridge is the only continuous run of upper cabinets that they will fit under. If they don't work well under the fridge, I'm not sure what I will do with them. Over the kitchen sink?

I've got most of the interior parts except for the doors to vegetable compartments in the fresh food section. It looks like it needs four--similar to the butter conditioner doors in design but bigger.

Sarah

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Thanks for the pictures

Lawrence and Jeannine

I don't have a long enough run of upper cabinets to put them anywhere but under the fridge.

Lawrence, I am planning a peninsula and like the way they look in the left side of your picture, but I don't think my peninsula is long enough. Also, it's going to be standard cabinet depth with a cooktop on it. It looks like the footprint of the cabinettes is too wide to permit installation of both the cooktop and cabinettes on the same counter.

Do either of you know what the bottom width of the cabinettes is? Mine is at David's. If I know the bottom measurement, I might be able to play around a bit with my plan. Thanks.

Sarah
 
Sarah,

Checking my 1957 catalog and finding - 

 

Standard Cabinettes were 11-7/8" tall, 10-1/2" deep at the top, and 7" deep at the base.  They were available in lengths of 21", 24", 30" and 36".

 

GE offered a special cabinette designed for installation under the wall refrigerator.  It was 8" tall, 15-3/16" deep at the top, 13-3/8" deep at the base, and 64" long; so deeper front-to-back and shorter than the standard ones

 

lawrence
 

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