GE filter flo washer tripping Breaker when filling

[adam-aussie-vac]

Hey guys, currently for some odd reason when I was doing my load the GE filter flow tripped the breaker when it was filling up with water, after I reset the breaker and restarted the machine it was fine and then about 10 minutes later it happened again, and it wouldn’t reset with the machine on so I pushed in the terminal reset the breaker and then pulled The knob back out And it works fine, what would cause the breaker/RCD to trip When filling with water? It did not do it on any other part of the cycle Also I live in Oceana so the washer is rated for 240 V, I’ll grab you guys a picture of it

 

[turbokinetic]

Based upon the symptom, it would seem that leakage current is happening when one of the fill valve solenoids is activated.

 

You may be able to see where moisture or dirt has built up around the solenoid connections, such that when power goes to the solenoid, it results in a resistive short to ground. You may be able to clean and dry the solenoid area and solve this problem. 

 

[adam-aussie-vac]

Okay, how do I disassemble the GE?

As I have only taken the Control Panel off to replace the broken timer knob as I couldn’t remove it without physically Undoing the Control panel And removing the timer, I don’t think it’s a similar design to those whirlpool direct drives, it does have The top separate from the main body,But I honestly don’t know where to start

 

[akronman]

this may be cheating

My entire basement was all GFCI outlets on 4 circuits running 4 washers and 2 gas dryers. All was well except 2 Filter Flo's, a 1977 and a 1979, both would occasionally trip the GFCI the instant it started to fill for rinse, the exact same spot on 2 different machines, less than 1/4 of the time. No tripping on any other cycle, just Rinse on Regular. Finally, I undid the GFCI for one outlet and made it regular grounding only, I use it for only the GE's, and all has worked well for years. Each machine is also grounded to a cold water copper pipe, and no problems since. I am a good home electrician, not a certified pro, and I think some of our older machines were built before GFCI was mandated for kitchen-bath-laundry?

 

[adam-aussie-vac]

Maybe, but I’m honestly kind of weirded by it

, Plus I actually want to fix the issue Because no matter which circuit I would’ve put it on that would’ve have And RCD on it as mum upgraded the fuse board quite recently so each and every circuit has an RCD on it

 

[gizmo]

1. It would NOT be legal in Australia to remove/bypass a RCD. If the bypass caused an injury or house fire, you wouldn't be insured.

 

2. I'm sure that someone here can give advice on how to open the control panel on these US  or Canadian made washers. But look at the machine, Adam. I can see two Phillips head screws at the bottom of the control panel. That might be all, you might be able to undo those screw, then hinge the control panel upwards. Or maybe there are some screws at the back, to release the top edge of the control panel.

 

3. My bet is you have moisture at the inlet solenoid valves. Once you open the control panel, with power OFF and cord unplugged, look at the inlet valves where the hoses attach. It is quite likely that you either have a leaking valve, or that the inner rubber hose the valves connect to has sprung a leak and has wet the solenoid valves. An RCD will cut off power if there is moisture between power and earth. Dry the moisture, fix the leak and the problem is fixed.

 

4. Again, make sure power is off and cord unplugged before you open the control panel.

 

[adam-aussie-vac]

Alright when I get home I’ll try that,

A. Would adding an rcd downstream of the first rcd be legal?

2. Would it be a good idea to insulate the solenoid terminals?

•. What would cause the breaker to trip when turning a switch off?

 

[gizmo]

just get a short extension cord with RCD like this one: https://www.bunnings.com.au/hpm-1-6m-extension-lead-with-safety-switch_p4335415

or a plug in safety switch, like this one: https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-single-outlet-safety-switch_p7050029

 

Once you own such a device, ALWAYS plug any device you are working on or testing into it.

I have a similar Kambrook branded one, I don't think they are around any more, but it is very sensitive and usually trips for a fault without setting off the main house RCD, saves a trip out to the main breaker box.

 

[adam-aussie-vac]

Here’s what I’ve done so far

I tried taking the four screws out of the control panel but that did not help, I did find there were two clips underneath the top panel, I push those clips in and left it at the panel and this is as far as I’ve gotten The two clips will be circled in red

 

[gizmo]

OH, OK, the solenoid valve isn't behind the control panel,so no need to go in there.
Is there an access panel to get into the back of the machine?
A photo of the whole back of the machine would be helpful.
So would a model number.

 

[yogitunes]

if the solenoid is getting wet, that would be a concern as to how.....

in pic #1, the back of the top, is that a shadow or rust formation, its possible this is not making a tight seal and water flowing over top onto the valve...

in any case, I would just replace the whole valve and be safe.....

pull the machine out, the location where the hot and cold hoses connect on the machine, that is the valve!....

as far as I can remember for a GE FilterFLo with a perforated tub, the top corner location area of the valve has never changed in all of its production years...

most times you dont have to remove the whole back fiber board, just two screws that hold the valve plate in place, should be enough give from the hoses and wiring to service and replace....

disclaimer....probably best to unplug and turn off the water taps....

and/or call in a tech to replace it for you....

 

[adam-aussie-vac]

I don’t think there is water flowing onto the valve, as it’s able to run multiple cycles fine but it always seems to blow a breaker when it fills During the rinse cycle, we have it hooked up to a grey water system where it goes through roughly about 8 m of hose, which is a 34 mm hose Into a 55 gallon drum with a pump at the bottom I might have to order a second one of those grey water pump things like what one of you guys suggested on here, As I can hear the machine sloshing water around during the spin cycle

 

[gizmo]

The symptoms strongly suggest you DO have water getting on the valves, or a valve.
It is easy to undo that small panel and access the valve - have a look and see if it is wet/damp. It doesn't have to be dripping set, just moist will trip an RCD.
There are multiple possibilities for a very slight leak to be dampening the valve assembly - the hose from solenoid valves to tub; the recirculating water hose (sprays water during wash to the filter-flo dish); the drain hose itself, visible in Yogitunes photo, may have a pinhole leak. Or it may be a leaking top tub seal, that allows a little water to weep where it shouldn't; or a tiny rust hole in the outer tub. You really need to look in there.

 

[adam-aussie-vac]

The filter flow hose is on the right top corner of the tub,

And feel if the solenoids are getting moist or damp, I thought it was because the insolation was getting old So I don’t think that’s causing any issues, but I will drag it out of that spot and look behind it

 

[adam-aussie-vac]

So after doing some experimentation

And looking at the solenoids, it doesn’t appear to trip the breaker when I ran it on the mini basket size and regular, so it appears that water is not going over the side of the tub, also in regards to the rust patch under the lid of the machine, I did notice that there was an opening around on the left of the filter flow Spout but on the right of where the solenoids are, is this normal? Or is there meant to be some sort of cover that covers this opening here? Also in regards to drainage mum had brought a high-capacity grey water pump, to help pump out the water from the GE Which means the GE could drain faster and intern that would mean that it doesn’t have to struggle trying to push all the water through an eight meter long hose has that high velocity pump would do most of the heavy lifting So the machine would have the same pump out capacity as if it was draining into a sink

 

[adam-aussie-vac]

On second thought

It doesn’t appear to be sealing well as the Patch of rust is sitting on top of where the seal is, what can I try and use to create a better seal? Would something like rubber stripping work?