GE Filter Flo

Automatic Washer - The world's coolest Washing Machines, Dryers and Dishwashers

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GE Boot.

To repair the boot, a 12 step program:

1. Open the top of the washer (not the lid, the whole top, it's hinged at the back) Anyone here remember how to do this?

2. Remove the agitator (there may be a bolt, screw, or nothing holding it in place).

3. Remove the plastic cover beneath the agitator by sliding the lever and lifting up.

4. Remove the tub bolts holding the inner tub to the transmission base (you must use a 12 pointed socket, not a 6 pointed one). You do not need to remove the bolts on the agitator shaft itself, just the ones on the bottom of the inner tub.

5. Remove the filter flo flume by just pulling it.

6. Remove the wash tub by lifting it straight up. In order to clear the fill flume, you may have to push the agitator post back. Note, do not grab the tub by the plastic clothes guard!

7. Use a shop vac to suck out any remaining water and debris from the wash tub. Also, look for a sock or anything that could obstruct the drain to the pump.

8. See that big black thing at the bottom of the tub connecting the tub to the transmission? That's the boot. These can get holes from pins etc. but that's quite unusual.

9. Get new clamps for the boot. They are giant hose clamps available from any independent hardware store or auto parts store for a mere few bucks. I don't think mine were more than $5.00. You can get replacements from GE or an appliance shop, but they are more expensive and are kind of flimsy in comparison. The Boot, if it needs to be replaced, is officially listed as NLA (No Longer Available) but new ones are plentiful on ebay.

10. Remove the boot and inspect it if you want. I soaked mine in vinegar for a day to remove scale. I also lightly sanded the transmission housing where the boot connects to remove some light surface rust and make a good seal.

11. Inspect the outer tub for rust (fixable with plumbers putty and POR-15).

12. Reassemble, and remember to screw those hose clamps down tight and do a water test before you put back the inner tub!

I will search for my thread I posted while doing this repair. Also, a compelling reason to keep the GE is that it has the most effective lint filtering system you can get. It will render clothes cleaner than the WCI Frigidaire.

Cheers,
Dave
 
Thanks Dave!

Your instructions seem pretty clear. I will let you know if I run into trouble. I am shelving this project for right now, as I do have a functional machine, and unfortunately my GE decided to have problems while I was already in the middle of two big projects (pulling up carpet to reveal a hardwood floor, and putting in a patio). Thanks for the links! As an artist I am a visual learner, so pictures help me a bunch.

-Sherri
 
My aunt had a washer like that. She bought it in November, 1988 to replace a 1970 Kenmore 500, but it only lasted until January 1995.

Have a good one,
James
 
Sherri....it is really one of the easiest vintage washers to work on. It's all very logical once you get into it. The water pump, the transmission, even the motor are all fairly easy items to service on the machine. I think the hardest part is tensioning its belt.

Just remember, on your GE, like all vintage GE washers...never change speeds while the machine is running or you'll snap the speed shifter right off. Otherwise it is a durable, well built and sturdy machine that will run for years and years without much fuss.
 
Pulling up carpet?

In my profession (Historic Preservation) there is a lot of this going on. Most people automatically assume that the wood must be sanded and then covered with polyurethane. This is not always necessary. Before you sand the floor, vacuum it well and SCRUB it with Murphy Oil Soap. If you use a machine like a Hoover Spin-Scrub that can suck up the wash water, so much the better. Rinsing would be a good idea if you can suck up the water. As a coating, good old fashioned wax works remarkably well. Bruce makes a very nice tinted wax that is good at hiding scuffs and floor wear. It won't make your floor look like new, it will just make it look like an older floor that has aged gracefully.

The reason why many historic preservationists avoid polyurethane is because, although tough, it is impossible to repair. Many traditional varnishes and waxes can be easily repaired if they get damaged by applying some solvent and/or some more varnish to the affected area. Polyurethane is tough to damage, but it cannot be dissolved and re-set like other finishes can. Stripping poly is also nearly impossible without extensive sanding. Sadly, the only way to repair a damaged poly finish is to remove it and start again.

Poly is also susceptible to damage from UV light. UV exposure (like from a window) will cause it to turn yellow and become brittle. I am helping my housemate restore an 1892 Queen Anne Victorian in Cincinnati. The floors were coated with Poly long ago and they have not aged at all gracefully. The poly is brittle and is coming up in chunks and sheets in the front parlor. The wood floor is actually a quarter-inch thick strip floor laid over the original sometime around WWI. It is too thin to sand without risking going through it (we don't know if it has been sanded before and don't know how much of the quarter inch thickness is left). We are brushing the floor to remove loose Poly and waxing it.

Clear as yellowed polyurethane?
Dave
 
Funny you should say that, AndrewInOrlando...

That very warning about not changing speeds while it is running is printed on the inside of the lid :)

I've found a couple of exploded view diagrams of the guts of my machine online, and it does seem pretty logical.

Ah yes - back in the day when things were meant to be serviced to last a lifetime (or several lifetimes). Not engineered to "give out" at some point so you pretty much HAVE to scrap the thing and buy new. It always amazes me the "throw away" society we live in - I don't know how it is across the pond, but it is definately bad here in the states. So many people of my generaion (gen x) were brought up with the "use it up and throw it out" mentality. I grew up very poor and had to learn how to "make do". My grandmother was a wiz at remaking things to prolong their usefullnes. I try to follow her very good example.

-Sherri
 
Hardwood floors

I started typing a long reply to you Dave, but I think I'll put it in the Super forum as I have some questions for you about the resoration of hardwood floors.

-Sherri
 
...withdraw the offer, I think I will keep it

[Sound of quiet sobbing in background] Happy endings always bring tears to my eyes.
 
On a more serious note, you'll probably be happy you kept that GE. If nothing else, once you get it running again, you may find that it cleans clothes far better than the Frigidaire.

That, at least, was my experience. Up to a bit more than a year ago, I used a Whirlpool belt drive (1980s or older). It broke, and was replaced by a 1990s Frigidaire. (The Whirlpool was probably repairable, but it had had plenty of problems...and some serious ones, including severe rust. Plus, this was before I knew about this place. And, it was my landlord's machine/decision.) At first, the Frigidaire seemed fine...but over time, I noticed that my clothes just weren't as clean. Then, I was able to switch to an old Kenmore (late 60s.) It's amazing how much cleaner my clothes have become.
 
....and, you can easily adjust the water level so that the machine fills all the way to the top row of holes of the basket, if that has not already been done. No bearings to worry about damaging with an old Filter Flo with the higher water level!!
 
bring these GE's back!

GE should've never, ever, ever, ever ventured away from their classic filter-flo washers and dryers! They should've updated them! GE! You need to ditch the hidrowave washers and go back to the classic design! Shame on you GE!!!!
 
Ishould've had my filter-flo repaired!

The filter-flo was the worst washer! Not because of the cleaning power, but because of the stupid problems with the transmission! It leaked oil everywhere! Lasted only 7 years! My post-filter-flo washer and dryer set lasts. Infact, they're 14 years old!
 

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