GE Monitor Top falling into my lap.

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volvoguy87

volvoguy87

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I just recieved a phone call about a GE Monitor Top refrigerator in my city that I may be able to get on short notice for a reasonable price. It is a CK-2-B16. I have not yet seen it.

My primary question is what is the best way to move it?

Should I build a wooden base to hold the mechanical equipment and then move the cabinet seperately, or should I leave it together, strap the top to the body, and then move it all as one?

I've never moved a Monitor Top before so I want to take the greatest possible care and every precaution.

Dave
 
Well, one important thing is to get it moved ASAP before a scrap metal or environment nut ("It's old! It must waste too much power!") get their hands on it!

Unfortunately, I lack any ideas about keeping the Monitor Top safe during the move.

Hope you get it! I like those old Monitor Top models.
 
They're top heavy as a result of their design. When I got my 36 I decided it was best to remove the mechanical unit and place on supports tall enough so the evaporator (freezer) box didn't hit. I could then lay the cabinet down. No problems. Just make sure you have help to lift off the top. Its heavy.
 
Close.

It's about 30-45 minutes away. The truck has no lift gate. I don't have anything to support the top portion, nor do I have a way to lift it off (it's apparently in an awkward position in a storage building and lifting the top off will not be feasible).  I'll strap the top down to the cabinet with 2 straps, then wrap the whole thing in plastic and strap it sideways to an appliance dolly.  I hope that by turning it sideways, the feet will fit onto the base of the appliance dolly.

 

This move shall not be fun.
Dave
 
My 36 has the larger cabinet and the legs do both fit on my appliance hand truck from the side. If you can it would be wise to strap it after loading so it cant fall over.
 
Straps.

Yes, there will be lots of straps used to keep the top on, keep the fridge on the dolly, and keep the whole thing safely in the truck.  I think the strapping will be a little excessive, but better to be secure than sorry.

Dave
 
Sounds

Like youl be fine. There pretty tough.
It's the overall weight that make them difficult to move. If you have a couple of strong guys with you to lift it with the dolly onto the truck.
When I have to move mine away from the wall to clean behind it. I use the floor jack for the car, and lift two legs off the floor so I can put sliders under, then repeat for the back legs.
Taking the door off relieves some weight, but watch out its heavy too.
HTH
 
I have one suggestion, and that is to not strap the top onto the cabinet too tightly.  There is gasket material underneath it that's likely very old and has long ago lost its resiliency.  Just make it snug.  That top is so heavy that it would take some serious tipping for it to fall out of the cabinet.
 
Dave,

The top weighs about 155 lbs. Just use a ratchet strap across the flat deck of the unit, down the cabinet and behind a leg. The gasket has long since become too hard to use. Lay in in the truck top first so you can pull it out legs first and to the ground.
 
Laying down.

I used 2 straps to strap the top to the body. An appliance dolly fit on the side. I strapped the whole thing together, wheeled it out to the truck, released it from the dolly, and shoved it into the truck on an old packing blanket. It's now safely in my basement, upright, and strapped to the appliance donnly again. I'll put a new cord on it before I plug it in.

Here is a view of the back side safely at home.

Dave

volvoguy87++10-27-2015-22-37-21.jpg
 
Google

Forarm lifting straps. Says two people can lift 700lbs
I've never used them but..
For some reason the idea of laying it down makes me think that it ain't gona be good for it.
If the top weighs 155 lbs .. What dose the cabinet weigh? Can't imagine that the cabinet weighs less.. If the cabinet weighs more than the top... Then it's not top heavy?
 
I won't get to until Sunday at the earliest.

I won't get to until Sunday at the earliest. This whole working six days a week and renovating a house has its disadvantages. I'm going to try to get it moved upstairs so it's at least on the same floor as the kitchen before getting too involved.

And yes it does have the knee buster pedal. A feature which all refrigerators should be required to have by law!

Dave
 
No.

Not working.  The former owner said the cold control had failed, and a dismantled cold control would seem to indicate that.  The cord is also frightful.  I'll rewire it and put on a simple cold control before even beginning to test it.

Dave
 
Congratulations on getting it home without any mishaps. Its not a knee buster if you stand to the side before stepping on the pedal.
 
SO2

This fridge, uses SO2 (sulfur dioxide) as the refrigerant.  I know there were some Monitor Tops which used Methyl Formate.  I'm curious as to the pros and cons of each, in terms of durability and efficiency.

 

As to the knee buster, I know to stand aside, my guests don't.  I have a dark sense of humor, so this could get entertaining.

 

Schadenfreude!

Dave
 
Dave

Don't know the advantages or disadvantages of SO2 or MF, freon ect, but will be interested when the experts stop by.
After you replace the cord, and repair the cold control...wonder if it will work just fine? Or will it need re charging?
Can SO2 be found to recharge?
 
The first monitor tops were built in 1927. They were the DR series, later just a D and used so2. In 1933, the CA series units came out and used Methyl Formate. They made these until 1934. The CK series was introduced in 1935 and that compressor design remained in use though the early 1940's. They also used so2.

There isn't anything inherently wrong with any of them. Each design has it's own set of issues.

You generally can't just charge an so2 unit with something modern. Even the term freon is R12 and isn't available. Each refrigerant has it's own pressures and operating characteristics.

The flat top unit that Stan has is an FEA unit on an older cabinet that would have had a DR unit when new. Those are 1940's units and use R12.

I likely have a control that will work on your CK. What I would do to test, is to cut off the cord below the cabinet light plug. Without moving that plug, remove the screw that holds that plug together. Now, solder a cord to the two copper prongs. If you jumper the two wires that go to the cold control, the unit should run all the time.

I would verify that you have something worth restoration by that simple test.

You can buy so2, but it's in a large quantity. It's also difficult to work with. You also probably will not find a refrigeration man that will help. The service men that worked with so2 are dead by now.
 
Thanks Travis for

Sharing the link!
Just glanced over on the site, and quickly learned about keeping the motor oiled!
Next time I move mine out of the space, I'll check mine out.
 

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