GE P7 experts -- need your help!

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Dean:

I'd certainly let Robert be the one to give the definitive answer, but it has always been my feeling that anyone sending ephemera to Robert is going above and beyond the call of duty to support the site. When literature is uploaded to AW, that's nice - very, very nice. But when it's sent to Robert for AE posting, it generates revenue that offsets what must be one helluva bill for site hosting. AE is a HUGE site, and we're always posting more and more photos....
 
Update -

I took a look through the GE service manual that has been collecting dust for quite sometime on the bookshelf.

It includes standard service info and model listings for ranges and ovens built from around 1961 to 1967. (Including some good Sensi-Temp Service info). It also includes a seperate and extensive section on the P-7 ovens and ranges, dating from the beginning in 1964, through the early window models of 1967. There is a ton of good info there for anyone who is interested in P-7 theory and operation, as well as an expansive service information section.

I'll shoot Robert a PM about the possibility of adding it to AE.

Ben

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GE Ranges Technical Data (Service Manual)

Ben,

 

That sounds awesome! I look forward to reading the information in that manual, if all works out. Thanks,

 

Dean
 
GE P7 experts - John combo52 - please help!

Dear experts and John combo52, sorry to have to call you all out like this but you are my final hope. I discovered your in depth discussion of the GE P7 cleaning mechanisms and thought you might also be able to figure out my P7's trouble as well. I need to find an answer on what part we need to fix our vintage GE P7 Automatic Oven - the top oven doesn't work. When we bought our home recently (and inherited this awesome double oven) we knew the top oven didn't work but we were hoping it only needed a new heating element. Well I researched and bought a new one on Amazon and had it installed today but no joy... still not working. My friend and I then unscrewed and opened the top board display of the oven and we looked around inside to see what looked broken. Right away we noticed that the device behind the temp switch knob for the lower oven was lit up and working whereas the device behind the switch knob for the upper oven had a crack on the end and there was no light on. So after turning off the power we went back in and tried to photo the bits that seem damaged and see if we could read any part number. I snapped two pictures which I will attach here. The first is the metal looking item marked "King Seeley" it had a patent number and my friend thought it was numbered part #62515. There is a device plugged into this metal part which is white and terra-cotta colored and is CRACKED on the edge. It is hard to tell if these are separate items and if both items need replacing? And we aren't certain what these are called? Is this a responder...? And what is the plug in part called since that is actually broken? I would be forever in the debt of anyone who can name these items and point me toward some company that might have replacements for sale. We love our awesome looking old ovens and hate to only have one in working order. I attached a photo of both wall ovens so you can see them... Thank you for any help you can provide! Sara

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Early Self-Cleaning TOL GE Wall Ovens

Hi Sara, the cracked part on the back of the responder is just an insulation guard to keep wiring from touching the little wires under it. This part of the responder is a hot-wire-relay and the tiny wires get a little hot when it is working. Just about every one of these covers crack, I would leave it alone, this is not why the oven is not heating.

The most likely reason the top oven is not heating is a bad temperature sensor, this part is the probe you see sticking into the back of the oven near the top, it is 3/8" in diameter and about 5" long. This sensor should have a resistance of about 17.5 ohms at room temperature. Using the wiring diagram it can be tested for this resistance from the control area and it can be accessed from inside the oven, although if it needs to be replaced you really need to pull the entire oven to really do the wiring connections properly, otherwise the new wiring connections may fail during the SC cycle from the high heat.

The next most likely reason this oven does not heat at all is a bad limit-lock -switch, GE used several different designs of these SWs, on yours it is probably mounted between the posts of the bake element [ it has 5 wires attached to it and can easily be checked for continuity, the terminals where the two red wires attach should have continuity at room temperature ].

There are several other possibilities for it not heating at all but I would try the temperature sensor first, Good Luck.
 
Thank you so much for the speedy and informed reply! I just searched for oven sensors on Ebay and found this one that seems to replace a host of sensor parts used in GE ovens... I will ask them if they think it will work for mine... I also downloaded the parts and schematics of P7 ovens... it looks like ours is the JK2801 made in 1966 (?) I'm going to ask the sellers of this Ebay auction if they think this sensor will work in our oven... hopefully they can tell me for certain. Do you think it looks like a good option to buy and try?

Thank you again, you are a true technical/mechanical superhero!

Sara


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might be too long...

Just noticed that the one I sent in the previous post is 7" long... maybe this one is better? They didn't do a measurement but I will ask them too... I feel like I am playing a game where the odds are not much in my favor! My poor top oven! Thank you for everything - I will send an update soon.

Sara


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