GM Frig 1-18 problems

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akronman

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Usually my 1-18 works well, 1975 model, but there is a growing problem. When it goes into spin-drain, sometimes it is silent(what a shock!) for about 5 seconds then the motor overheat switch kicks in, and barely a drop of water from the hose.  Usually, when all is working, it is loud from the instant the spin-drain starts, and there's immediate strong water from the hose. When it is silent and no water, I know it's gonna heat-overload-stop. 2 minutes or so later, it cools down and kicks in again and either silently goes on overload in about 5 seconds, or loudly pumps water from the instant it starts and all is well. I've watched underneath and the the belt turns easily in both directions, the pump spindle/rollers spin in both directions, no hose kink or blockage. Both the silent start-up and the rapid heat overload switch have me baffled. It knows something is wrong in 5 seconds or less? When this happened once a month ago, I chocked it up to a fluke at age 37. Now it's about every other load, either 1st spin or second, sometimes both. Always either silent spin with no pump and dead in 5 seconds, or loud and tons of water immediately and all is well.

 

I'm new to 1-18's, it's a great machine and deserves the repairs, I don't know what to look for first. All the various rollers and spindles seem to turn at all times and are bone dry with minor rust, of course spinning in 2 diff directions depending on cycle. The recirculating pump works well, my "dry agitate" suds saving sucks back water perfectly, spin-drain works loudly and well 3/4 of the time. I'm guessing something inside the pump binds occassionally, and it's such a damn good bind that only a few drops of water move and in 5 seconds the motor overloads? DO I get inside the pump first? Any seals/O-rings needed before I attempt? All directions say to never oil, but does a drop on the base of the pump spindle help this old beast, dropping down into the pump bearing?
 


I've seen this before, and repaired a fellow members machine with this same condition.  In my opinion the clutch needs to be removed, disasembled, cleaned and then reassembled.  That took care of the problem on the particular machine that I worked on.
 
could be timer fault

could also be a fault with the timer or motor's centrifugal switch not completing
the start circuit in spin direction,most likely the timer as faulty centrifugal
switch should bother in wash direction too.
 
I have one doing this too....have not repaired it yet....but I am also going with the clutch is locked up.......once cooled down to restart, you can turn the timer to make it agitate, which is fine, but then go to spin, and it conks out...

also be careful as not to over-tighten the belt....
 
clutch

the spin starts just as slow as normal working loud pumping spins starts, but only 5 quiet seconds later with no pumping it kills the motor. Also, when I first got the machine and it had almost no brake at all, I followed directions and held the tub in place for about 45 seconds of spin to "burnish" either the clutch or brake??? Then it braked for maybe one or two loads of clothes, always goes back to slow coasting stop, very slow, no brake. Is the clutch and brake one related inter-working item(in this case non-working?) ? How would it behave with a binding clutch? I guess I need to learn about 1-18 clutches, it'll be a good project, I really love this machine, cool as hell and great washes, fantastic rinses, better than average extraction. Worth it for sure, and it took over a year of searching to find it.

 

I will keep you posted and get started soon, thanks for the advice, I'd have taken apart the pump instead.

 

Of course all of this happens as the new Norge is all apart for painting, all over the basement. I may have to finish the Norge just to get working space near the 1-18.
 


when you get ready to start on it (it will take you about an hour or so) let us know, take some pictures.  We're here to help you...  I had the assistance of another person when I did the task but it certainly can be done alone.  You will need some brake parts cleaner, sandpaper, rags, and a stiff bristled brush -- I used a small sized brass one.  One the machine I repaired someone had oiled the sperical bearing in the agitate shaft, it slung oil up into the clutch while agitating and then when it went into spin it slipped and burned the oil into a goo like substance over time.
 
I know this clutch like family

I thought it would behave for you, but one never knows...

The drive roller contacts the OD of the clutch. It is easy to see the clutch outside diameter spinning while the tub does not, due to the clutch working OK. if the clutch is siezed one can see it NOT spinning.

So have a look, if the clutch outside diameter spins, then perhaps the problem is elsewhere, as you were thinking.

When I tore this machines clutch apart last summer, I thought I got all the grease out of the clutch linings and it was good to go. It may need lube on the spin roll stop/brake cam. I was very stingy putting grease on these parts.

ref:
clutch service pages
http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?37229
go down to Reply# 35

teardown of clutch
http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?35506

My work on this machines clutch:
http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?35710
This week I worked on the clutch
...it wouldn't spin up to speed
...My disassembly of the clutch found a waxy black grease on the cams and a slick glazing on the clutch shoes. Someone had definitely oiled this 1-18 in error

To clean the parts I used acetone in a bean can with a snap on lid to prevent evaporative loss between soakings.
To clean the shoes I used:
acetone soak and rub
brass bristle brush scrubbing
mini butane torch heating

1) soak shoe in bean can with 1" of acetone for a few minutes.
2) remove shoe, lay flat on work surface. brush across glaze portion, rotate shoe 30deg, brush again until done all around
3) rinse with acetone and wipe off gunk
4) move acetone can and rags far away
5) light mini torch (Item #41169, harbor freight) and heat shoe surface
6) carefully increase heat on surface in one spot until hydrocarbon flames up, then move on to next area
7) repeat until glaze disappears after step 5 and oil doesn't flame up anymore.

When I reassembled the washer today the cluch worked quite well. When just a bit of water was left in the tub it spun up to full speed in what seemed to be less than 30 seconds

http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?37229

fltcoils++1-27-2012-21-58-0.jpg
 
A plug for a favorite cause

bleach dispensor spring

If someone could measure their bleach dispensor spring it would help with picking out a replacement.
spring free length
wire size (diam)
spring coil diam
# of turns

That will help get the right stiffness of spring installed.

Anyone have one they can measure with calipers?

thanks
 
Hello Bill fltcoils

Bill--good to hear from you again. Today I will be buying some brake cleaner/mineral spirits and a brush, I think this project will be a Sunday chore. Over all, this machine is great, thanks again, very well worth the clutch work. I'll keep you posted and I'll ask questions, it's pretty detailed work to re-do--

I have printed out all your attachments, they will be handy and greasy in a day or two---

Thanks again--

Mark

 

 
 
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