HA 806
- Thread starter gadgetgary
- Start date
Help Support :
Not a water supply issue
Can't figure out why nothing it happening!
So that piece pictured has nothing to do when the swithch is electrically by-passed?
Can't figure out why nothing it happening!
So that piece pictured has nothing to do when the swithch is electrically by-passed?
White thing
On my other Maytags, what 'white thing' has a clicking noise when pushed in and out. The one pictured does not have that noise, and, should that not be a factor when the switch is electically by-passed?
On my other Maytags, what 'white thing' has a clicking noise when pushed in and out. The one pictured does not have that noise, and, should that not be a factor when the switch is electically by-passed?
Gary,
If you bypassed the lid switch by joining the 2 wires together that go to each side of that switch, then the switch is out of the circuit. You may have a timer problem or the water level awitch might be "hung up" . it is a single pole, double throw switch.. check to make sure the 2 wires you joined together have not somehow separated????????
If you bypassed the lid switch by joining the 2 wires together that go to each side of that switch, then the switch is out of the circuit. You may have a timer problem or the water level awitch might be "hung up" . it is a single pole, double throw switch.. check to make sure the 2 wires you joined together have not somehow separated????????
Jonh
Checked that.
Wires are not separated.
The machine filled for rinse and then would not start agitating.
Now, it will not even fill. When the water is off, I do not hear the buzzing either.
Checked that.
Wires are not separated.
The machine filled for rinse and then would not start agitating.
Now, it will not even fill. When the water is off, I do not hear the buzzing either.
Advance timer to spin
Nothing!
The panel lights up as well as the tub light. No action
Nothing!
The panel lights up as well as the tub light. No action
Gary,
It could be the water level switch is not making any contact to start the motor to agitate. It's either the water level switch or the timer. If you open the console, you will see the clear plastic (or black colored) air tube that runs to the water level switch. Remove the hose from the switch ( make sure the washer is unplugged).You might hear a click when you remove the air hose. If you can find another piece of air hose to attach to the water level switch, then blow into the hose to see if you hear a click.Clear as mud...right???
It could be the water level switch is not making any contact to start the motor to agitate. It's either the water level switch or the timer. If you open the console, you will see the clear plastic (or black colored) air tube that runs to the water level switch. Remove the hose from the switch ( make sure the washer is unplugged).You might hear a click when you remove the air hose. If you can find another piece of air hose to attach to the water level switch, then blow into the hose to see if you hear a click.Clear as mud...right???
John
Even if it was the water level switch, wouldn't the machine still SPIN when you put it in the Damp Dry portion?
Even if it was the water level switch, wouldn't the machine still SPIN when you put it in the Damp Dry portion?
Yes it should spin. The water level switch is not involved in the spin circuit. Sounds like a bad master switch in the timer.You also said the motor was very hot. I'm wondering if an open overload switch that doesn't reset when cool might be the problem. IIRC the schematic is pasted to the front of the outer tub. I'll see if I can find one in my "06" service manual.
To rule out the motor, what you can do is remove both front panels from the 806 and 712, and place them directly in front of each other. Hook up the wires from the start switch of the 806 wiring harness to the 712's motor start switch and advance the timer on the 806 to spin. If the motor works on the 712, the motor/start switch in the 806 is bad.
spankomatic
Well-known member
If the switch was bypassed, does that part above have anythi
The lid switch is multi functional. When you open the lid it shuts off the machine for safety. It also acts as a "out of balance" switch. When the tub sways too far it will trip the same switch and shut off the machine. It's like a "kill" switch. Sometimes you have to grab the agitator and move the tub around and re-center it for the switch to reset. You also have to open and close the lid for the lid switch to reset. The little white button should be moving in and out and click like your other machines. If it is NOT (you say it does not click)something is wrong or broken about this switch. Sometimes the white plastic will crack and break. It seems obvious that this switch is at least part of the problem. Make sure you unplug the machine when working with this switch so you don't get zapped! Hopefully you will be able to just re-center the tub to get it clicking again.
Jim
The lid switch is multi functional. When you open the lid it shuts off the machine for safety. It also acts as a "out of balance" switch. When the tub sways too far it will trip the same switch and shut off the machine. It's like a "kill" switch. Sometimes you have to grab the agitator and move the tub around and re-center it for the switch to reset. You also have to open and close the lid for the lid switch to reset. The little white button should be moving in and out and click like your other machines. If it is NOT (you say it does not click)something is wrong or broken about this switch. Sometimes the white plastic will crack and break. It seems obvious that this switch is at least part of the problem. Make sure you unplug the machine when working with this switch so you don't get zapped! Hopefully you will be able to just re-center the tub to get it clicking again.
Jim
surgilator_68
Well-known member
I would rather do it the correct way with a volt meter.
Mr. Gadget was correct!
This machine was acquired with the lid switch failed in the "ON" /operate position.
Apparently it had failed again randomly right after the machine had filled for the deep rinse, but it had failed in the "OFF" / stop position.
I had only previously bypassed the tub lamp to work and be "on" constantly, as long as the fluorescent control-panel illumination lamp was "on".
I was able to electrically bypass the lid switch, which resolved all issues.
NO CHARGIE! LOL
This machine was acquired with the lid switch failed in the "ON" /operate position.
Apparently it had failed again randomly right after the machine had filled for the deep rinse, but it had failed in the "OFF" / stop position.
I had only previously bypassed the tub lamp to work and be "on" constantly, as long as the fluorescent control-panel illumination lamp was "on".
I was able to electrically bypass the lid switch, which resolved all issues.
NO CHARGIE! LOL
Thank you Steve!
Happy 4th(at least we did not see any sparks with this project)!
My 806 'sunshine' is back in perfect working order!
Happy 4th(at least we did not see any sparks with this project)!
My 806 'sunshine' is back in perfect working order!
Similar threads
