Has anyone converted a flourescent fixture to LED?

[supersuds]

I have about 5 48-inch, 40-watt T12 flourescent fixtures in my living and dining rooms (all indirect lighting) that I think date back to when the house was built in 1968. Some of them are getting reluctant to come on and could probably use replacement. Maybe they just need new starters, maybe it's the ballasts.

Apparently there are 20-watt T12 LED replacement bulbs on the market that will plug right in to existing fixtures, but you have to remove the ballast and do some rewiring.

I was just wondering if it was worth the effort, as opposed to paying for a dedicated new LED fixture.

 

[tolivac]

The LED conversion bulbs are expensive-I would just wait a little while before taking the plunge-the payback on the LED bulbs is best for a place that has a LOT MORE fixtures than a home.so far the ones installed here at work are doing fine.

 

[Ultramatic]

 

 

I converted the kitchen ceiling fixture earlier this year. I had to by pass the ballast, which was simple enough. I bought 4, 48 inch <span id="productTitle" class="a-size-large" style="font-size: 12pt;">Hyperikon T8 LED Light Tubes. I just LOVE the new brightness and cooler operating temperatures. If I recall they were 50 bucks on Amazon. In my case, I was happy with keeping the old fixture. I bought a new LED lamp for my sisters kitchen at Home Depot. It cost $129, not nearly as bright and the bulbs are NOT replaceable. Always compare the Lumens (brightness) and the color temperature output between replaceable LED bulbs and the non replaceable ones built into a light fixture.
</span>

 

 

[cfz2882]

I installed some Philips t12 LED retrofits-instructions specified the ones I got were for use with magnetic ballasts and not electronic ballasts.I used the LED retrofit in the basement where it is often cold in winter and flourescents flicker and buzz until they warm up-LED just turns on with full brightness

 

[blackstone]

I converted a bathroom fluorescent light to LED. Simple installation, just have to remove the ballast. Instant-on, bright while light.

Cost was not a consideration, since the existing bulb needed replacement, so I just used that money to buy an LED. One more similar fixture, just waiting for that bulb to go bad.

 

[sfh074]

2 for $10 .....

at Wally World. I have used them in 3 of my 4' fixtures and they are nice and bright. They come in a box of 2 and are just a dollar more than the price of the regular 4' glass bulbs that come in a 2 pac. Comparable to the regular F40 watt output. If they last a few years, then they should be worth it in power saved. The box says should last 12 years. Hopefully they will last at least half that. If so I'll be happy with them.

 

[appnut]

I replaced the fluorescent tubes in my kitchen about 3 or 4 years ago with these.  I didn't even know they existed.  I had contacted the electrical company that had done the wiring on my house when it was built 34 years ago.  They were the ones who suggested the LED tube replacement--I had no idea they existed.  Cost me $95 to have the work done to make the fixture compatible with them.  An immediate change and improvement in light quality as far as I was concerned.  I'd been battling with a tempermental fixture in my laundry room for several years and didn't want to replace the fixture for sentimental reasons.  So this past spring I had that one converted too.  Again $95.  I hope the tubes last a long time. 

 

[gansky1]

I have done both replacement methods, rewire to bypass ballast and the direct replacement option. For three sets of the 4' tubes in the garage, I've used the Feit replacement LED bulbs from Costco two pack for $17. Three more sets will be coming as those fluorescent bulbs go out. For my 1958 40" GE range, there were no (low voltage) replacement LED in the length needed so I needed to rewire, as mentioned, easy enough.

 

[Ultramatic]

 

 

My home is nearly 100% LED now. Every table lamp, sconce, ceiling fixture has been converted. The only incandescents are in the oven, microwave and the refrigerators. The last remaining fluorescents are in the range hood, stove, washer, dryer and a small under cabinet fixture. They will be switched out as they go bad. 

 

[sfh074]

If interested ....

You can still get the 100W, 60W and 40W incandescent bulbs at Dollar Tree. They are the 130V variety and are rated for 5000 hours. Why they still sell these is beyond me but a box of 2 for a buck! They also have the chandelier style bulbs in both the tiny and regular size bases in a 2 pack for a buck. And they started not too long ago selling a 60W/9W LED bulb for a buck. Oh and a 50/100/150W three-way bulb for a buck as well .... which is $6 a bulb at Homer's. The Dollar Tree website does not show all of the bulbs that are available in-store for some reason, but some other styles only available online.

 

[circlew]

I've considered changing the 4' T12 fixture I have in my basement to LED, but haven't as of yet. I thought about the Sylvania SubstiTube series, but I will have to change the magnetic ballast to an electronic instant start first. Otherwise I will use the tubes that don't require a ballast.

 

[kb0nes]

I have retrofitted a bunch of 48" T12 and T8 fixtures. So far I have steadfastly refused to use a drop in lamp. Something rubs me wrong with running a ballast to mess with the power to suit a linear fluorescent only to step it down to run the LED's. I know that Phillips and others have achieved pretty high luminous efficacy with retrofit tubes, but I have had friends that had issues with ballast compatibility, it is easier to ditch the ballast.

I bought a few dozen retrofit tubes from Axis LED for about $9 a tube. You just direct wire the fixture to feed the tubes 120v AC. I used a couple of the tubes without fixtures by just soldering AC wiring to the end pins and covering it with heat shrink, the tubes hung from nylon fishing line. These tubes are at ~100 lumen/watt efficacy and have better then 80 CRI, I've been very pleased with them as have my 4 friends that I sold some too.

I have also used the Cree retrofit system where you replace the ballast with an LED constant current driver. I have some of those in the office at work and they sure work better then the old T8's did as far as efficiency, light output and overall visual light quality.

For standard 2 x 4' troffers in suspended ceilings today, I'd just replace the whole fixture today in most cases. Even the name brand fixtures are affordable and they just look so clean.

 

[sfh074]

Drop in bulbs

I had a 4' closet fixture start flickering last week and the 2 fluorescent bulbs were going bad with the ends turning dark. My latest visit to Wally World, I passed by the light bulb section and saw the 4' tubes which reminded me to get one of the 6100K super bright GE brand 2pac that I normally always purchase. Next to them was a big green box. It was the store brand (Great Value) LED 4' bulbs in a 2pac. On the box in big print, "Lasts 44 Years". I picked the box up and it contained 2 bulbs and the instructions showed they were the "drop in" variety and required no ballast rewiring.

The GE bulbs I normally get were $7.88 for the 2pac and these LED bulbs were $9.88 for 2. After giving the box a second look, it said 4800K equivalent, and again on the front it said 44 years @ 4 hours per day.

Don't roll your eyes, but I bought them to try them out. After popping the old bulbs out and installing these, I actually had a nice surprise when I flipped the light switch. They came on with no flicker and a bright white light. I am thinking even if these last just a few years like the regular bulbs typically do, the energy savings will pay for them free and clear. We'll see how this plays out. At the very least, it did not require having to spend 20 minutes messing around with bypassing the ballast.

And yes, I used the word "bulb" for fluorescent tubes. Never could get past calling them lamps. To me a lamp is what you put the bulb into. LOL

Bud - Atlanta

"My fluorescent fixture requires 2 lamps" ... OR ... "My table lamp requires a fluorescent lamp"
.... sorry, still doesn't sound right.

 

[runematic]

At the end of 2017, I decided to replace some of the faulty 8ft & 4ft flourescent fixtures in the showroom.  Most of the fixtures were old and unreliable.  So we decided to just do a complete replacement.  I think it was 10 fixtures or so in all.   The savings these things produce is impressive.  I think right now I am saving almost 30% on the electric bill.  Now if I could just come up with enough $$ to replace the other 4 floors!

 

[supersuds]

Update

Thanks, everyone, for the responses.

I’m sure it would be better to get all new fixtures, or failing that to bypass the old ballasts, but for the moment wanted a plug and play option. I also couldn’t find the Philips bulbs cfz mentions that are for magnetic ballasts.

However, Lowe’s had some Feit T8 replacement bulbs on clearance for $3.99 a pair, and I do have a couple of T8 fixtures with electronic ballasts, so thought I’d give them a try, even though these newer fixtures are working perfectly.

Putting the Kill-A-Watt meter on the fixture showed the existing GE fluorescent bulbs, nominally 32 watts apiece, were using only 63.3 watts combined. Very good performance considering the ballast must use something,too.

The Feit LEDs were supposedly 18 watts each, so I assumed the fixture would now be using about 36 watts. Surprise, the meter settled down at 43.4 watts. So the savings is only 20 watts. No big deal considering how little the bulbs cost, but a tad disappointing, and it isn’t going to make a difference on the electric bill.

The worst thing is that the Feit are that operating-room cool white (5000K). This fixture is over a bar in the kitchen where we often eat. For that, I preferred a the warmer 3100K of the old bulbs. The Feits might be banished to the garage, ha.

 

[cfz2882]

Philips

The Philips I use are the "instantfit EM" T12(actually ~T8 diameter) 2100 lumen,4000k color-get them at my local "Runnings"farm store $7.99 ea.I think these are very good and worth seeking outThe mag ballast in the fixture still buzzes faintly with the LED retrofit but gets just barely warm VS quite warm using fluorescent bulb.4000k color is very nice.

 

[mattl]

<blockquote>
The Feit LEDs were supposedly 18 watts each, so I assumed the fixture would now be using about 36 watts. Surprise, the meter settled down at 43.4 watts. So the savings is only 20 watts. No big deal considering how little the bulbs cost, but a tad disappointing, and it isn’t going to make a difference on the electric bill.

</blockquote>
Yeah, that is an issue for me, the savings are just not worth the trouble and often the extra expense of the LED tubes.  I only have 2 fluorescent fixtures, and while 95% on my lighting is now LED have no desire to switch out those. 

 

For some real power savings I swapped out the bulbs in the dining room chandelier, originally pulled 900 watts - 15 60 watt bulbs, now its down to 90 watts or so- had to use one 60 watt bulb to get the dimmer to work. Did the same in my foyer, only it has 16 bulbs, but it does not have a electronic dimmer so all can go to LED.  Wouldn't have done it but picked up 6 packs of 60 watt equivalent bulbs for $4.99.   Interesting thing is it's hard to spot the non LED bulb in the dining room, they mimic incandescent  very well.

 

[tolivac]

LED conversion bulbs-tubes show the most savings if you use a LOT of fixtures as in a business.They will see the most savings from LED conversions-At my worksite is a good example more so than a home which only has a few fixtures.also LEDS tolerate "on-Off" better than usual fluorescent bulbs-real fluorescent bulbs don't last long under frequent on-off cycles.Flourescents give best life when just left on.Then you have the issue of the power used when these are kept burning.Longer bulb life or cost of the power used.

 

[blackstone]

Slightly off-topic, but...

...I just bought LED regular screw-in (Edison E-27) base. I picked out the 5000K variety, in a couple of different wattages. Local Costco price comes to $1 per bulb. Not advertised in flyer. Price must be due to local electric utility subsidy. For that price, time to replace the 2700K CFLs.

This from Wikipedia:

"Public locations such as railway trains and the New York City Subway have used light bulbs with left-hand threads to discourage theft of the bulbs for use in regular light fixtures."