HELP! GE LH-12 refridgerator not cooling properly and running constantly.

[oldschoolmeg]

Hi everyone! I am brand new to this forum. I recently bought a 1956 GE fridge LH-12 model and it is not colling properly and the compressor runs constantly. Initial plug in the coils in the firdge and freezer take a long time to cool down. And only a few of the coils on the back of the fride get hot.

A little back story: we had to travel with this fridge for over 3 hours with it on a car trailer. We wrapped and strapped this thing like crazy, but it was still a rough ride. According to the previous owner, there were no issues at all. So now I'm thinking we damaged the fridge on the trip. Which is super depressing. My dad also collects old fridges and he suggests a freon recharge. But seeing that it worked well before we must have knocked a hole in this thing on the trip. Any suggestions on what else could be wrong with this thing?? I am having an HVAC guy coming to look at a possible recharge. My dad has the R-12 aready and we have worked with this guy before. I'm tagging some pics bellow of the fridge itself. Also some pictures of what could be a possible service port for the r-12. My dad says all the old fridges are sealed off, but im wondering if this one might have a port. This particular fridge does not have the rivetted serial tag on the inside like it is suppose to. that is where I can find the info on how much r-12 is needed. Does anyone possibly have that info for me?

Does anyone have a manual for this fridge or know where I can get one? I bought one off this website that was a sevice manual for a wide range of fridges, so its not super helpful for this particular fridge.

Thanks in advance!

 

[arbilab]

Did it travel upright?  Certain fridges resent being tipped over for any length of time.  Then it takes time for the oil to settle back where it belongs.  I don't know if this is one of those but someone here will.

 

[oldschoolmeg]

The fridge traveled upright. Wrapped like a mummy. Then we let it sit overnight just in case.

 

[rp2813]

I'm no expert, but . . .

You could try a re-charge, but if that resolves the problem it will only be temporary unless you can also locate the leak.

 

It also might be that during the trip home something was knocked loose, like some sort of accumulated debris inside the sealed system after decades of operation.  It could be something like a tiny particle preventing a float needle from seating.   That's like a needle in a haystack for sure and would require serious disassembly. 

 

I think if I were having this problem, I'd let the thing run and perhaps any blockage or other issue could eventually resolve itself.  Then again, there's the big question about whether the previous owner was being truthful about the fridge's cooling capabilities.  My rule when considering a vintage refrigerator is, if it's not already plugged in with frost on the coils and/or evaporator, walk away.

 

The crispy paint on the compressor  concerns me as well.  If that paint was fried by heat, the compressor may have issues.

 

We have an expert miracle worker here named David (use name "turbokinetic") who may chime in to advise, but I haven't seen any posts from him for a while so he could be out on the road and busy.

 

I had a '57 version of this same fridge and loved it.  I'm pretty sure the run relay in the compressor fried, and I couldn't find anyone local to fix it.  It sounds like you have access to some experienced repair people, so I hope you have better luck than I did.

 

[combo52]

Non-cooling GE combination refrigerator

Hi, this is not going to be an easy problem.

Your picture number two has a charging port you need a special tool to access this port on a GE refrigerator.

Try adding 4 ounces of our 12 to it if it starts cooling properly you know it’s low charge I think this is probably the least likely problem.

It most likely has a bad compressor or a restriction In the filter dryer, if adding 4 ounces of our 12 doesn’t help do a compressor vacuum test it should pull 30 inches of vacuum if not the compressor is toast. If the compressor works OK replace the filter dryer and charge it with 10 ounces of our 12 and see how it works.

John L.

 

[ken]

Sorry to hear about your problem

Unfortunately I can't offer any advice concerning fixing your problem but wanted to tell you your GE is a 1955 model rather than 1956. Color scheme for 55 was a blue freezer and yellow fresh food compartment. GE switched to a magnetic door latch in 1956 with the handle being nothing more than a door pull as opposed to an operating mechanical latch on the 55's. Also, I have two 55's that work normally. The compressors on both look the same as yours. I don't believe the appearance is due to the paint being burned from overheating.

 

[oldschoolmeg]

Thanks everyone!

I've done some more research along with everyone's comments and I think I have one of two problems: A restriction in the line or low refrigerant. I ran into this diagram in one of the other appliance forums I've been scouring. The diagram does not clear up for me what the issue due to it not being specific on how hot is "very hot." I took the surface temperatures of the compressor and the line leading away from it and they read 164 degrees. Is that hot or very hot? I linked pictures to better show what I'm talking about. Also, the condenser coils on the back are only partially warm after running a while (linked picture). This particular fridge doesn't have a filter drier factory installed. I looked everywhere for it.

I'm thinking this is the route I'll be taking:

install a T style charging port on one of the lines

clear the lines with nitrogen. I need to do more research on this--it is suppose to clear the restriction if there is one.

install a filter drier somewhere in the lines

recharge the fridge according to the plate we found under the drip pan.

What do y'all think of this?

 

[rp2813]

I couldn't even begin to offer any suggestions based on what you've reported.  That level of diagnosis is way beyond my capabilities, but you seem to have enough knowledge to perhaps resolve the problem. 

 

It didn't even occur to me that the fridge is actually a 1955 and not a '56.  Personally, I'm not a fan of the '56 interior color scheme of copper and aqua.  Even the all-pink interior of the radically redesigned '57 Combination was more appealing.

 

[combo52]

What Do You Think Of This ? Not Much

Use A clamp-on saddle valve on the suction line and add 4 OZ of R-12 if you can not find the GE charging tool, then see what happens.

 

If it is restricted it is at the point where the capillary tube attaches to the bottom of the condenser [ your picture #4 ] 

 

 

You should try adding a little Freon if this does not work do the compressor vacuum test, if it passes then cut the last 4"s of the condenser out and install a filter dryer and recharge with around 10 Oz of R-12, I don't think the model tag has the correct charge amount for this ref, what does your tag say ?

 

John L.

 

[combo52]

What Do You Think Of This ? Not Much

Use A clamp-on saddle valve on the suction line and add 4 OZ of R-12 if you can not find the GE charging tool, then see what happens.

 

If it is restricted it is at the point where the capillary tube attaches to the bottom of the condenser [ your picture #4 ] 

 

 

You should try adding a little Freon if this does not work do the compressor vacuum test, if it passes then cut the last 4"s of the condenser out and install a filter dryer and recharge with around 10 Oz of R-12, I don't think the model tag has the correct charge amount for this ref, what does your tag say ?

 

John L.

 

[oldschoolmeg]

Tag behind the drip pan

Here's a picture of the tag I found underneath the fridge, behind the drip pan.

 

[combo52]

Non Cooling GE Refrigerator

Thats what I though, GE was about the only ref manufacturer that did not list the exact charge amount on their model tags just a maximum that was never actually used. 

 

I would try 8 or 10 oz max and see how it works after you repair whatever is wrong such as replacing the compressor.

 

John L.

 

[oldschoolmeg]

Charged up with r12 but still an issue

I charged the fridge up and everything cooled down right away. However, the condenser is still running constantly. Thinking it might be a thermostat issue now... when I turn the dial inside the cabinet it will click and turn off after a certain point. Sometimes its all the way down sometimes its about half but it won’t turn off until I fiddle with that dial. How hard is a thermostat job? I saw some modern modifications with thermostats on other threads but im not exactly sure if it’s my problem or not. Maybe I should get someone to do a vacuum test on the condenser? Not sure.

 

[oldschoolmeg]

Addition to last post

Also, the fridge does not freeze up everything like I have seen in other threads where thermostat is an issue. The fridge/freezer is maintaining correct temps but is just running nonstop. When we put freon in we just put in 8oz and this was honestly done blindly. We just put some in and waited and kept putting in until got got cold enough. Maybe not enough?

 

[combo52]

What is the temperature in the ref and freezer sections ?

 

[oldschoolmeg]

Temps so far

35 in fridge and i think 20 in freezer but its hard to measure freezer properly with my food thermometer. It freezes water relatively quickly. If it starts getting warmer over time I’m afraid I might have a leak somewhere. I just sprayed down all the potential leak areas with soapy water and didnt reveal anything. I’m going to try to get a tech out thats not afraid of r12 to maybe sniff out any leaks.

 

[combo52]

If Its Running all The Time

The freezer should be -10-25F, otherwise the compressor is probably weak or you could have a restriction where the strainer goes into the capillary. 

 

If you have a leak big enough to lose 8 Oz of refrigerant in a week or so it will not be cooling at all in 2 weeks.

 

John L.

 

[rp2813]

I use ice cream as my temperature testing medium in the freezer.  Stick the thermometer into it and check it after 24 hours or so.

 

GE refrigerators from this period have a reputation for cold control failure.  I had to replace the control on my '57 Combination and was able to get a NOS universal fit replacement.  I wouldn't place the blame on the cold control just yet though if the fridge is running constantly and not cooling down the way it should.

 

[oldschoolmeg]

How to troubleshoot?

So to test if the compressor is weak you do a vacuum test? If the compressor is weak can I swap with another? I planned on finding another similar fridge for parts anyways. What about testing for a restriction? If I have a restriction will i be able to fix it?

I am willing to put a lot of time and money into this thing so any suggestions help. Thanks for sticking with me so far.