Keep going with it. I am excited for you, I'm not really mechanically inclined but I have made several repairs on my 1952 Maytag J2l.
Help! Kenmore visimatic trouble
- Thread starter vacuumguy99
- Start date
Help Support :
vacuumguy99
Well-known member
I took the pump out and it was full of build up. The part of the shaft that the impeller goes over is frozen solid. Is there anything I should look out for or any tips on the easiest way to get it free?
vacuumguy99
Well-known member
Pumps spinning freely now, a little silicone gasket maker should seal it back up. I think I might see what some silicone based wd40 does about the squeeking. One question I have is should the wringer spin in both directions? Mine only works in reverse :-| I feel like that will be the next project.
Wringer lever has three postions
Neutral, forward, and reverse. Are you sure the controls are set properly for "forward" motion?
Yes, all wringer washers by this time reversed IIRC. It allows wringing from either direction so best to take advantage of all those 28 various positions. Reversing also allows the removal of things incorrectly fed into the wringer, stuck and or bunched up.
Neutral, forward, and reverse. Are you sure the controls are set properly for "forward" motion?
Yes, all wringer washers by this time reversed IIRC. It allows wringing from either direction so best to take advantage of all those 28 various positions. Reversing also allows the removal of things incorrectly fed into the wringer, stuck and or bunched up.
vacuumguy99
Well-known member
When I use the wringer first I put tension on the rollers (they automatically regulate pressure) and then put the wringer in the forward position. All that happens is the lever gives a little kick back and then it goes into position but the wringer never engages. When I put the lever to the reverse position it engages normally and runs fine, I took it apart to check the gears and they all still have good teeth. But I did notice that when the lever is put in the forward position the main drive arm that the wringer hooks into the washer with lifts up a little bit and I didn't notice any movement of that arm in the reverse position.
mickeyd
Well-known member
EDIT: Visus; principal
The pump--been there, done that. Luckily your impeller is intact; mine not so much--hardly any left ;'D-- on this earlier Lady K. When you mentioned a belt replacement, I agreed having used vacuum belts and auto store tubing for Hoovers and Maytag TT's, but I scratched my head in self doubt because I couldn't remember a belt when I was underneath the Lady K's.
As you found out, there is no pump belt; in fact the only wringer washer I've seen that uses a belt driven pump is the Norge. It's a cool lookin' apparatus. Next time I get under the Norge, I'll snap a pic.
The pump--been there, done that. Luckily your impeller is intact; mine not so much--hardly any left ;'D-- on this earlier Lady K. When you mentioned a belt replacement, I agreed having used vacuum belts and auto store tubing for Hoovers and Maytag TT's, but I scratched my head in self doubt because I couldn't remember a belt when I was underneath the Lady K's.
As you found out, there is no pump belt; in fact the only wringer washer I've seen that uses a belt driven pump is the Norge. It's a cool lookin' apparatus. Next time I get under the Norge, I'll snap a pic.
mickeyd
Well-known member
PRETTY PINK LADY
Once I got a new pump she was good to go, but still needs a timer to amke her more automatic. You know how to determine the date of your machine, right? The first two digits after the 110, is the year of manufacture.
About the wringer: I have the same exact issue with a Speed Queen, so if you figure it out, let me know what to do. Thank You.
Also, the WD silicone should work fine. I think it may be a new product. When I bought a new can of Garage Door Opener the other day, there was a can of the WD S right next to it, so I bought both. The lid over the headlight on my Firebird kept sticking when the weather here goes full Arctic, and the WD S loosened it right up.
Once I got a new pump she was good to go, but still needs a timer to amke her more automatic. You know how to determine the date of your machine, right? The first two digits after the 110, is the year of manufacture.
About the wringer: I have the same exact issue with a Speed Queen, so if you figure it out, let me know what to do. Thank You.
Also, the WD silicone should work fine. I think it may be a new product. When I bought a new can of Garage Door Opener the other day, there was a can of the WD S right next to it, so I bought both. The lid over the headlight on my Firebird kept sticking when the weather here goes full Arctic, and the WD S loosened it right up.
mickeyd
Well-known member
EDIT: make
The top rod goes up to the pump, while the bottom rod goes rides against the main pulley. Borg Warner Norge was one of the best. Notice the B W stamp on the tranny. Their Wringer washer pumps were unusual not only in the belt and pulley design, but the pump impeller itself is almost flush with the chrome screen over the drain port. In an empty tub. if you move in close you can actually watch the impeller start spinning, and the wicked gurgle is right there in your ear. Haven't met another machine where the impeller is right there, up close 'n personal. Lots of fun. Have an ancient Norge in the basement; everything works, Norge's pumps seemingly indestructible.
Again, the best of luck on the wringer. My bet is that you'll figure it out. Let us know.
The top rod goes up to the pump, while the bottom rod goes rides against the main pulley. Borg Warner Norge was one of the best. Notice the B W stamp on the tranny. Their Wringer washer pumps were unusual not only in the belt and pulley design, but the pump impeller itself is almost flush with the chrome screen over the drain port. In an empty tub. if you move in close you can actually watch the impeller start spinning, and the wicked gurgle is right there in your ear. Haven't met another machine where the impeller is right there, up close 'n personal. Lots of fun. Have an ancient Norge in the basement; everything works, Norge's pumps seemingly indestructible.
Again, the best of luck on the wringer. My bet is that you'll figure it out. Let us know.
vacuumguy99
Well-known member
I'm going to try and work on the wringer some tonight, ill have to see what the service manual says about the one way problem if it mentions it at all.
mickeyd
Well-known member
We simul-posted, just this second. Check the Norge!
`
`
vacuumguy99
Well-known member
My uncle works at a steel manufacture and was able to cut out a wrench, Ill try to get the project most of the way done by tonight but as they say "slow and steady wins the race"
vacuumguy99
Well-known member
Got the tub off!!!!!!! That as a pain in the butt but that tool helped big time. I learned about the oil pad on the pump so I know why it froze up
Good for you!
Am glad you finally got things going your way.
Am glad you finally got things going your way.
vacuumguy99
Well-known member
Okay next step. I need to add some oil to the gear case, I got the proper weight of oil and the directions say to remover the oil plug cap on the side of the gear case and the fill the case just until the oil is at the bottom of the oil cap hole. The only problem with that is the cap is flush with the gear case,threaded like a bolt, and only has a circular rounded out cut out to remove it by... Anyone know how that gets taken out? It really didn't help much that the procedure they give you in the service manual I have is so short,but I suppose at that time there where far more of the old style to fix than the brand new style.
mickeyd
Well-known member
WOW! NICE!
Good for you, Kiddo. You're the real deal. Haven't gotten that deep into my Visi, but I'm sure you'll figure it out. A guy here named "bradross" should be able to help you. Email him. How's the wringer coming, or is she on the back burner for a while.
Good for you, Kiddo. You're the real deal. Haven't gotten that deep into my Visi, but I'm sure you'll figure it out. A guy here named "bradross" should be able to help you. Email him. How's the wringer coming, or is she on the back burner for a while.
vacuumguy99
Well-known member
Lookie what I found :-D
Well turns out there was a few revisions of Whirlpool wringer washers from 1960 to 65(the on I have) so I bought the Whirlpool service manual for the newer models and am getting ready to open her up. The cork gasket is kind of off putting since I have no way of getting a new one. Well wish me luck everyone, I've gotten just about head deep on my first washer lol. I suppose "practice makes perfect"
Well turns out there was a few revisions of Whirlpool wringer washers from 1960 to 65(the on I have) so I bought the Whirlpool service manual for the newer models and am getting ready to open her up. The cork gasket is kind of off putting since I have no way of getting a new one. Well wish me luck everyone, I've gotten just about head deep on my first washer lol. I suppose "practice makes perfect"
vacuumguy99
Well-known member
Well the old oil is out time to put the new stuff in :-D after this, I'll replace the motor and gearbox and see what Whirlpool has to say about the wringer
vacuumguy99
Well-known member
I got the motor and gearbox back in the machine,some of the insulation cracked on the wires so they'll get taped up in the morning. Still need to seal the pump up and move on to the wringer. I looked tonight and saw the edges of bar that power the wringer at chipped so I stuck the bar in the wringer,gave it a twist and there is a considerable amount of resistance coming from the forward gear than the reverse. Might just need a clean and adjustment(if that's possible in such a small gearbox)
vacuumguy99
Well-known member
Update
Well I took a little brake from the overhaul but I'm back at it,all the gears in the gear case adjusted but the crank rod in the picture isnt completely seating and it makes a little knock every time it gets to a certain spot. Any tips on how to get it in place? Does the pin holding it in have threads to screw down or is it something you hammer in place? Looking forward to the replies. Thanks guys!
Well I took a little brake from the overhaul but I'm back at it,all the gears in the gear case adjusted but the crank rod in the picture isnt completely seating and it makes a little knock every time it gets to a certain spot. Any tips on how to get it in place? Does the pin holding it in have threads to screw down or is it something you hammer in place? Looking forward to the replies. Thanks guys!
vacuumguy99
Well-known member
I'm chugging away on lady visi
So the knocking noise that started this tear down was still there after fresh oil and a gear adjustment mostly because the spring washers on the main round gear adjustment stud are missing mean nothing aside from the snug fit of the stud in the hole was holding the gear in place, the "fork gear" or gear that hooks to the agitator shaft that swings back and forth has it's washers in place,so that should be an easy enough replacement fix. I took everything out of the gear case except the worm gear coming off the motor and clean it out with wd40 and some paper towels. I did make sure not to leave paper bits in the gear case. Finally got the silicone to seal the pump and some may go over warn down sections of the gearcase seal. I'm planning on replacing the cord an wiring harness since it's as basic as it is,a cord and 7 auxiliary wires. Wringer will come after that's all finished!
So the knocking noise that started this tear down was still there after fresh oil and a gear adjustment mostly because the spring washers on the main round gear adjustment stud are missing mean nothing aside from the snug fit of the stud in the hole was holding the gear in place, the "fork gear" or gear that hooks to the agitator shaft that swings back and forth has it's washers in place,so that should be an easy enough replacement fix. I took everything out of the gear case except the worm gear coming off the motor and clean it out with wd40 and some paper towels. I did make sure not to leave paper bits in the gear case. Finally got the silicone to seal the pump and some may go over warn down sections of the gearcase seal. I'm planning on replacing the cord an wiring harness since it's as basic as it is,a cord and 7 auxiliary wires. Wringer will come after that's all finished!
