Help! Maytag A-208 outer tub

[thatwasherguy]

Hi there! I have a 1978 Maytag A-208 that I am restoring. Internally, there is very little rust. However, there is rust in the worst possible place: the outer tub. I would just patch it, but it is at the top where the two pieces of the outer tub connect. I had noticed in the tests before I took it apart, that it was leaking, and that the water level only dropped about a half inch or so. A leak from that seal would explain why. Do I have to replace the outer tub, or can I patch it without it leaking? If it has to be replaced, does anyone have a spare? I’ll be at the storage unit that the washer is in tomorrow to get some pictures of the rust hole so you can see what I’m talking about.
Thanks,
Thatwasherguy.

 

[thatwasherguy]

Here’s a picture of the rusty hole in the tub. As you can see, it is right where the two pieces meet. My concern with a patch is that it won’t be even, and could leak as a result. I’ve also included photos of the restoration progress. The gold paint on the control panels has worn off, so I resprayed it blue. I’m aware that this never came from the factory that way, but I feel it will go better with the pink paint job both will be receiving at some point in the future. Any advice on the outer tub is appreciated. Thanks,
Thatwasherguy.

 

[repairguy]

That’s a pretty good rust spot in a bad place. If you are restoring these machines I would try to find another standard capacity washer that is maybe beat up externally and has a good tub in it. These standard capacity Maytag machines are still very common to come across and I’m sure you could find a parts machine for a great price depending on your completion time frame. I’m sure with the right tenacity yours could be fixed but in my opinion there are too many of those still out there with good parts on them if you are restoring these for the long run. I can’t speak for everyone but when I go through a machine it will be so that I don’t have to work on it again anytime soon and I have no worries about it’s dependability.

 

[pulltostart]

I don't know about the pink, but I LOVE the turquoise and white!

 

lawrence

 

[good-shepherd]

so I resprayed it blue

Wrong shade of blue.

Can't recall the part # offhand but there is an automotive spray can color that is a very close match to the Maytag console blue. You can probably find it with a search on AW.

Outer tub is pretty bad. Smaller rust spots can be cleaned painted and sealed with RTV.

 

[thatwasherguy]

Repairguy: That’s the same reason I’m going through them. I want them to be reliable enough to daily drive, and to look good. I’ve considered getting a parts machine, but in my area, vintage washers period, even standard capacity Maytags, don’t come up that often. On top of that, my area has notoriously hard water, which is really hard on washers. My main concern is that if I buy a parts machine, that it’ll have rust in the outer tub as well. I looked at the bottom of the tub, and there’s some rust there, too.

Pull to start: Thanks for the compliment! The main reason I’m doing a pink paint job is because of the fact that the original paint is really beat up, and if I’m going to spend a bunch of money on a paint job, I want it to be something unique. Besides, I’ve always wanted a pink washer and dryer.

Good-Shepherd: I thought it looked a little bit brighter than the Maytag blue, but I feel it will go better with the pink paint job that both will get in the future. Thanks for the tip on the rust spots! There’s some smaller ones on other parts of the tub that I can seal this way if need be.

Is there any way I can tell a parts machine in good condition from one that the tub is rusted out?
Thanks,
Thatwasherguy.

 

[repairguy]

These standard capacity machines were built into the nineties so it doesn’t have to be a center dial machine for the parts to be compatible. I’ve often asked the seller if they mind if I open the front cover to inspect. Taking out the two front panel screws and removing the front cover is simple and most sellers don’t have a problem with me doing that. Of course I do that in person and never ask them to do it for me.

I started doing that after I bought an A606 that was said to run perfectly but when I got it home it leaked water due to the tub rusted out where the pump hose connects to it. I want to believe that the seller was telling the truth and that it happened during transport which is very possible. It was very rusty underneath though.

 

[qsd-dan]

You can use any standard size outer tub up to 1993 that has a port for the bleach hose. If you don't use the bleach cup, it greatly widens your choice spanning back to 1957 with the exception of TOL models that have the bleach port on the opposite side. Shouldn't be too hard to find.

 

[robbinsandmyers]

Blue paint.....

The closest Ive seen to the original shade was 1964 Chevy Impala " Silver Blue " paint. Growing up my dads friend had a 64 4dr hard top in that exact same color. Hope this helps.

 

[thatwasherguy]

Repairguy
Even the 80’s models that aren’t central dial are hard to find in my area. The most vintage things you see in my area at any given time are a few 90’s to 2000’s Maytags and several direct drives. Other than that it’s just a bunch of modern junk. I’m not going to give up though. I’ll find one eventually.

qsd-dan
Thanks for the info! That helps a lot. By the way, nice profile pic. I just love these central-dial maytags.

Robbinsandmyers
Thanks for the info! I’ll have to remember that in the future.

I was back at the storage unit today trying to get the brake and damper separated, and the motor and pulley off. Neither one came loose. For the motor pulley, I’m going to go to an auto part store and rent a puller. The damper/brake is another matter, however. I made the mistake of dismantling the machine BEFORE separating the two. That said, I now realize that this makes this more difficult. I could probably put it back together enough to get that thing off with the right tools, but I really don’t want to. Is there any way to separate the brake and damper without doing this? If I must, I will, but I don’t relish the idea. By the way, on the 80’s machines with the black control panels, which ones have a standard capacity tub? I think it is if they have only 3 water level selections, or an infinite switch with just small medium and large labels. Is this the case?
Thanks,
Thatwasherguy.

 

[thatwasherguy]

Repairguy
Even the 80’s models that aren’t central dial are hard to find in my area. The most vintage things you see in my area at any given time are a few 90’s to 2000’s Maytags and several direct drives. Other than that it’s just a bunch of modern junk. I’m not going to give up though. I’ll find one eventually.

qsd-dan
Thanks for the info! That helps a lot. By the way, nice profile pic. I just love these central-dial maytags.

Robbinsandmyers
Thanks for the info! I’ll have to remember that in the future.

I was back at the storage unit today trying to get the brake and damper separated, and the motor and pulley off. Neither one came loose. For the motor pulley, I’m going to go to an auto part store and rent a puller. The damper/brake is another matter, however. I made the mistake of dismantling the machine BEFORE separating the two. That said, I now realize that this makes this more difficult. I could probably put it back together enough to get that thing off with the right tools, but I really don’t want to. Is there any way to separate the brake and damper without doing this? If I must, I will, but I don’t relish the idea. By the way, on the 80’s machines with the black control panels, which ones have a standard capacity tub? I think it is if they have only 3 water level selections, or an infinite switch with just small medium and large labels. Is this the case?
Thanks,
Thatwasherguy.

 

[qsd-dan]

Make sure you remove the Allen head screw that holds the pulley to the motor.

 

Motor pulley removal: Spray some penetrating oil from the top of the motor pulley/shaft and let it soak for 10 minutes or so. Use a rubber mallet or hammer and tap the pulley towards the motor. This will force the penetrating oil through the motor pulley. The pulley should slide off easy after that.

 

Standard Capacity Tubs. Yes, 3 button water level switch is a guaranteed standard capacity tub. The standard capacity tub machines that have an infinite water level switch will be labeled with "Large" for the highest water level rather than "Extra Large" for the bigger tubs.

 

 

[kenwashesmonday]

I believe the early A806 & A606 big tub machines had only 3 water levels for the first few years starting in 1966.

 

[thatwasherguy]

qsd-dan
Great, thanks for the info! I’m trying to check Facebook marketplace daily, as vintage washers in my area are usually cheap and get gone quickly. I got lucky with my A-208, and the person who stepped up before me backed out. (Mind you, I sent a message within 5 hours of the machine being listed.). When I do see the 80’s maytags, there usually either too far away or a large capacity model. I am truly envious of those who live in areas where vintage washers are readily available.

kenwashesmonday
Thanks for the info! I’ll have to keep that in mind when searching for a donor machine. However, the parts machine most likely won’t be central dial. If there’s one machine I can’t bring myself to part out, it’s a central dial Maytag.
Thatwasherguy.

 

[thatwasherguy]

Okay, so...

I’ve decided to tackle the transmission first. It was agitating sluggish when it was cold, but once it warmed up, it was fine. The belts were tight, so I believe it was due to 43-year-old oil. I have obtained the O-ring seals, and the oil. However, I still need the following things that I couldn’t find anywhere. The transmission gasket part number 22210632, water deflector part number 22001586, center shaft instillation tool part number 38555, and the clamping nut, part number 2-11210. If anyone has one they could sell me, it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Thatwasherguy.

 

[goatfarmer]

You're a bit away from me, but I have 2 center dials, A 408, and a A608, that may be scrapped later.

 

[good-shepherd]

too far away or a large capacity model.

I wouldn't pass up a large capacity 80's vintage machine, you could easily swap over everything into the center dial: trans, tub, tub supports, etc.

The installation tool you need is a common spanner wrench. Tub nut is included with a new stem seal kit.

See link for a how-to and part #'s:

Changing a Maytag tub bearing and seal: A how to...

Recently, Dan wanted me to show him the steps on changing a Maytag Dependable Care platform tub bearing and seal on his HA806 that I gave him. What we here at the shop call a 'stem and boot job'. There has been interest expressed on my possibly sharing that with all of you. In the interests of...

www.automaticwasher.org

 

[thatwasherguy]

Update...

I found the transmission gasket at PWS laundry. If anyone else needs one, I’d get one now as they are NLA everywhere else.

Goatfarmer...
As much as I would love to have more than one vintage washer, my space just won’t allow it. I’m lucky I was able to keep the ones I’ve got. It almost didn’t happen.

Good-Shepherd...
I could swap everything over, however, truth be told, I prefer the standard capacity for performance and nostalgic reasons. Not to mention, I’d have to have a different water level switch and a different wiring harness. I already have the Spanner wrench. The tool I’m talking about is used to install the shaft in the transmission. Thanks for the link, I really appreciate it! I’ll definitely use it in the tub seal replacement.

I’m thinking that I’ll focus on obtaining the new parts before the outer tub, as I don’t have any time limit to restore the machine, and I don’t trust Whirlpool not to discontinue more parts than they already have. I’m still concerned about buying a machine this old for an outer tub, as mine looked perfectly fine with the front off. It wasn’t until I took the metal band off that I fount it was rusted out. I’ll cross that bridge when I come to it.
Thanks,
Thatwasherguy.

 

[thatwasherguy]

It never ends...

I got an E-Mail from PWS stating that the part is discontinued (go figure), despite saying available on their website. I’m trying to get one from A-1 appliance now. If I get the same result, I think I might scream. (I guess I better never attempt to find parts for something like a Frigidaire unimatic, LOL). Anyways, is there something else I can use to seal the two halves of the transmission casing, such as some gasket maker or sealer of the like? Or will I have to just painstakingly cut a gasket out of a piece of rubber or something? On the bright side, the transmission is actually in really good shape on the inside. No visible rust, or damage to any of the gears. My dad and I even got the groove pin out of the agitator shaft without destroying it! I am aware that removing this shaft isn’t a great idea, but the upper seal looked just sketchy enough that I didn’t trust it. Given that it’s the only thing between the water and transmission if the stem seal fails, I didn’t want to chance it. Besides, it’ll make it easier to coat the agitator shaft in POR-15. The oil was a goopy mess, but other than that, everything is perfect. Now, the only thing holding me up is that gasket. I’ve got everything else I need to rebuild this transmission. Once I sort out this crazy gasket, I can focus on other things, like the tub seal and whatnot. By the way, is there any special trick to installing the lower O-ring seal, or do you just have to fumble around with it until you get it in the groove?
Thanks,
Thatwasherguy.