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hotpoint_42

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 9, 2007
Messages
51
Hey people:
my washing machine is always switched on every day, i love washing at the highest temp possible as i feel it cleans much better. as you are all aware the electricty and gas in the uk has gone up again, so my bill is normally quite heavy. i have come down from washing at 95 too 75 for whites but all my colours are still washed at 60, expt for my delicate clothes which are washed on outerware 40. my machine is normally cramed to the top with washing. i want my clothes to be clean and safe. lots of underware tends to be mixed in with other washing ( i have quite a large family ) so to kill germs and bacteria just have to wash above 60. Help and i want to cut my wash times down aswell but i dont no how too, it sounds stuped but i cant help it. ? .
 
Thy "importing" the Brazilian know how...
until a few years ago, our washers had only cold water option.
Housekeepers would never think about using hot water until the first models with internal heater appeared.

I think you can do the same.

Even with internal heaters in 3 washers and a tankless heater installed two days ago, I still prefer using cold water for most of my laundry.
Sometimes I use hot water for the heavily soiled items.

Try it and you´ll see your clothes will be clean, spending much less energy.

Of course, to compensate the cold water, you should use the longest cycle available in your washer.
 
Don't

There are many ways with which we can become eco friendly but I personally feel that we don't have to become dirty to be eco. As long as your machine is full I personally see no harm in washing at 95 or 60 on a regular basis. I do at least 4 60+ washes a week and don't loose any sleep over it. as for washing times you should be able to do an easy care 60 which should take 1hourish which would od for your clothes only leaving towels requiring cottons length times.

I like your tumble drier I have the same one and find it wonderful.
 
My dryer is gteat. i have connected it strate to the waste so i never have to empty it, its fab, drys pretty quick aswell. the thing about easy care and minium iron programs is that my machine the does a final spin of 1200, were as the cottons does a 1600rpm. to select a seperate spin it takes around 10 mins, i dont wanner be faffing around changing programs lol. but thanks for ya help. can i mix underware with noraml clothes. there are 8 people live in my house hold, so u can guess the amount of washing there is. i want to keep wash times to a minium aswell.
 
Hi
Yes, why not, you can mix underware with normal washing. I wash white underwear with whites and coloured with coloured.It's a habit! LOL
i've got 6 people in my household so i know about how much laundry to be done, plus i have two extra peoples to do as for the past 3 months my grans having extension done so there washing is done at mine too.
 
Saving Energy :)

Personally I never really see the need to go above 60*c anymore, esspecially since weve had the Miele because it dosnt let the temperature drop during the cycle at all.

Alot of bacteria can be killed at 60c and the longer holding time of the water in the wash cycle helps this too. I tend to wash kitchen linen and towels seperatly on a Cottons 60c cycle, however every few washes I put them on a 75*c Cottons wash.

For coloured washing, and time saving I'd say use the Cottons 40c programme with the short option, this proves to give good results whilst not fading coloured washing too much as the temperature is low :)

If your worried about bacteria e.t.c maybe you should wash all underwear together and use the Hygiene programme

By the way, we have the same washer LOL!

Richard
 
Are you pushing the short button?

I pack my Miele full and run it on short all the time. A 60deg wash runs to about 1:12 and I never have any issues with things coming clean.

I cant remember the last time I've run a cycle without Short selected.

It sounds like you're over worried about germs unless you have someone who is incontinent in some way. The chemical action of the detergent and the time in the dryer should kill off most bugs. I get sparkling clean whites at 50-60deg and all colours are done at 40. Unless your dryer runs really cool, you're clothes would be spending at least 30 minutes at 50degs or so during the drying.
 
To correct the wrongful information given in this thread.

Bacteria is simply NOT killed NOR reduced in anyway at temperatures below 75*c.
We all make a fuss of cooking chicken well which means it reaches a temperature of more than 75degs but it seems some folk see no harm in washing toilet cleaning cloths at temps below 75 degrees.
Something I dont get???

Bacteria thrive in temperatures between 8*c and 63*c. This is what is known as the "Danger Zone" although the multiplication process of bacteria is at its strongest around 30/40 degrees.

Bacteria need 4 things to survive and multiply,

Food
Moisture
Heat
Time

This is why when you wash towels below 75*c they smell musty when used and they are damp.

The food comes from our bodies,
moisture as we dry ourselves,
time as we leave them hanging in the bathroom or crumpled in the basket
and the temperature will mostly be right for them to breed at room temp.

Of course the detergents mostly incorporate some kind of bacteria reducing action (my thought is that it reduces amounts of the food they need which slows down the breeding process) but heat generally is the only way we can reduce - (we cannot fully remove bacteria activity though) without resorting to other harsher chemicals and extreme heat/autoclaving.

Tumble drying will not remove bacteria either as it only heats to around 50/60 dges or so thus not providing an environment out of the "danger zone".

I would continue to wash at temperatures you feel comfortable in doing so - what you need to remember though we cannot be 100% sterile so just concentrate on the areas it matters such as cleaning cloths, bedding and towels.

These textiles are great at spreading illness causing bacteria as people dont realise just how vile it can be sharing these.
We wouldnt swap used underwear but some of us seem to not mind sharing bed linen or grabbing the nearest cloth when we spill something - its usually the cloth we have just used to wipe raw chicken juice up with ewww!

Rob
 
Cbosch

"There are many ways with which we can become eco friendly but I personally feel that we don't have to become dirty to be eco."

Do you mean I'm dirty?

I forgot to say...
I don't use high temperatures but I DO USE a strong desinfectant.
It' the same desinfectant used in hospitals. It kills 99.99% of germs, bacterias and other unwanted "visitors".

the instructions in the bottle says only 5 minutes is enough, but I aways use a bigger dose and the clothes soak in the solution for aprox. 1:10 minutes, which is the wash time.
 
When I use cooler temps

I bleach the hell our of everything.

OH-wait, I bleach the hell out of everything anyway. Let some nasty bacteria survive that.

Chlorine is your friend.
 
Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do. I run at least two or three boil washes per week, for all the terry towels, microfibre cloths and mop heads I get through for work (the slight increase in the electricity bill still works out cheaper than sending the laundry out and putting it through my expenses). All you can do is try to use the energy more wisely, by always loading the machine to its full capacity and following good laundry practices so as to eliminate the need for rewashing.

Besides, there's a lot more to being green than merely reducing temperatures in the laundry. I know quite a few people who think they're "saving the planet" by washing everything at 30 degrees when, in reality, it's nothing more than a token gesture to make them feel a little less guilty about wasting energy elsewhere. They'd be far better off ditching the frivolous 4x4, turning out lights when they leave a room, and adjusting the time clock on their central heating/hot water so it isn't ticking over all day while they're out at work...
 
Hi there,

I have the same machine as you... have to say I haven't used 95*C for ages now. My rule of thumb is normally 60 degrees for whites and 30 or 40 for anything thats coloured, then 60 for sheets. I always use minimum iron unless it's a particular bulky load which I will then use cottons, and more often than not the short option and have to say laundry always comes out clean and fresh - on the other washer with default short cycle times I don't press anything and it will do a min iron 40 in 51 mins. IMO I don't really see the need for higher wash temperatures, just seems a waste of energy and time when a 60 degree wash will do just as good a job, as long as a decent biological detegrent is used. Have to say I've washed my underwear at a low temperature along with coloureds for years and haven't died or become ill as a consequence yet - nor do I get musty smelling laundry :-).

I'm not too fussed anymore about killing germs and bacteria - after all, the load becomes "contaminated" again as soon as you open the washing machine door so as long as the clothes are clean then that's good enough for me :-). I never use 75 or 95*C washes, yet don't consider myself as a dirty or unhygienic person - the world is too hung up nowadays about being antibacterial when there are far more important things going on in the world :-).

I'd say the best way to cut energy use would be to use the dryer less and use more green alternatives such as the washing line, or investing in a decent clothes airer, changing the timers on the hot water boiler, using the car less, not leaving TV's on standby etc... changing washer temperatures alone certainly won't make that big a dent in the electric bill.

Jon
 
Forgot to say that, energy usage aside, washing at excessive temperatures can cause coloureds to fade, shrinking to fabrics and increased wear on fabrics. Made the mistake once of washing whites at 95*C and ended up with T shirts and socks being too small!

Jon
 
Energy saving advice---

If you're doing your laundry correctly, bacteria shouldn't be a major concern. The type of bacteria that's likely to be found on your clothes do not survive normal washing, even at 40C. So, unless you or someone in your household has some kind of unusual skin infections you really do not need to worry too much about it. Just run a standard cotton wash with the correct dose of detergent for your water quality and the type of stains on the clothes. You clothes will be as hygenically cleaned as is necessary for normal use.

If you are cleaning items which are actually contaminated with bacteria, e.g. clothes that might have been in contact with raw meat, you can do a pre-wash with clear Detol disinfectant. However, DO NOT use the orange/brown 'traditional' variety of detol as it will stink your washing machine out for weeks and your clothes will smell like a hospital!

Kitchen clothes should really be soaked in a sink/bucket containing disinfectant before they're ever put into a washing machine.

Likewise, you can prewash towels with clear Detol should you wish to do so. Same goes for pet beds etc

To keep your machine healthy :

If you are running full-length cotton cycles at 40C or more and using good quality detergent, in general you won't have much of a problem, particularly in soft water areas.

Run a full length cotton cycle with a good standard detergent like Ariel or Persil (not-colour version) once in a while at 90C. Maybe once a month.
You can throw your kitchen clothes or other items that need to be sanitized into that cycle too to avoid wasting energy.

If you're in a hardwater area, use a water softener like calgon in each wash. There are also good alternatives from Tesco etc and even Lidl's water softener's pretty effective. These are not-phosphate based btw.

If you're in a hardwater area and your machine has become very gunked-up, you can get a washing machine descaler. It's available online. However, I've found Finish or Sun dishwasher cleaner equally effective.

Pour the cleaner straight into the drum and run a 90C cottons wash and turn on any enhancement options like "Aqua Plus" (Bosch) "Water Plus and Wash plus" (Miele) .. Superwash (hotpoint) etc..

The single biggest problem for washing machine gunking-up other than limescale tends to be fabric softener.

If you are using a lot of softener, you do need to run a hot wash now and then to clear it out. A good detergent should also be capable of washing away any softener gunk that's left in the drum, even at low temps.

Other tips:
Use the correct dose of detergent - over dosing leads to gunk build-up.
Use a good quality detergent and softener.
Avoid 2-in-one detergent/softener combinations as they leave residues.
Do not exclusively use the QuickWash option, this leaves a lot of residues behind! Many people do almost all of their washing on this option and then wonder why their machine gets disgusting inside!

In summary to save energy:
Reduce the temp from 60 to 40 in your colour washes
Try doing your whites at 40C but on a long white cotton cycle and put in a scoop of Vanish crystal white, (combination of oxygen bleacn + enzymes). Results are often better than a 90C wash!!
Use quickwash options where appropriate e.g. if you're just washing a very small load of lightly soiled items.
Do a monthly boil wash to keep you machine healthy!
 
I recently experimented with washing everything at 40

But I have gone back to washing colours at 40 and whites at 60. On the whole the clothes were still clean at 40, but I have noticed when ironing under arms of shirts and tshirts washed at 40 there is a smell of sweat. I would wash everything at 60 but I don't want faded colours. Energy saving is all good but things still need to be clean =]
 
If your clothes still have odours after a 40C wash you're not using a good detergent or you're not using enough of it.
 
hey thanks for all your posts.
i never really use the short option as i like a good long wash on the other hand i wanner keep wash times down lol. i use persil bio i think, its quite expensive. i will take some of your ideas into consideration. i have changed from 60 to 50 for my colours and for whites, tea towles, bath towels ect 75 - if it is quite a full load if not then ill move down to 60. ill see how that goes if not who cares lol. but thatnks for all your help. p.s i collect washers aswell. my hotpoint 9545 washer seems to lose power during washing ( going round ) it starts of slow trying to go fast but it runs slow when the timer clicks, it then speeds up why is this. its a yellow hotpoint with a spin slider. about 20+ old
 
hello hotpoint_42

I wash colours on 50 or 40. 50 does a great job aswell as 40. However on the hotpoint wma 58 i had to use 50 or 60 as it didn't clean as well as dyson.

By the way i've sent you an email.
thanks for the pic of your washer and dryer.
 
Sudsman is a Certified Hospital Laundry Manager,

and he has said more than once that a key to bacteria control is not to OVERload a washer. He tested at a range of temperatures, and a range of load sizes.

I wash white bath towels and white underwear together at tank temperature, which for me is 150F. Boiling is 212F.

Almost everything else gets washed at "Warm," which for me and my machine is about 115F.

Lawrence/Maytagbear
 
Well. I've been doing my bit, My colours and darks i alternate between 30 and 40, dependant on soil level. I've used the cool wash on my Crappoint as its slightly longer.

I still do towels and bedding on 60, Not changing that one! Whites get 40 i've done them on 30 with okay results, but i still feel 40 is necessary.

I'm also tryin not to use the dryer, so hanging everything on hangers and clothes airers! Though i do stick towels in for a quick blast in the dryer as i can't stand stiff towels!

I think once our baby comes along in december 40degrees+ maybe needed more often!

Hotpoint42: I would love to see a pic of your hotpoint if you have one!!!!!!!!

Darren
 
I still have odours regardless of how much detergent

I use a lot less now but I have used up to 120ml (I have extremely soft water) and still found the under arms had odours when ironed. This is the same with persil and Ariel
 
Well I have to admit, I never seem to get round to using 30 on my Miele even though I should do. When I do use that temperature, it's only for delicates and woolens lol.

But I will start using lower temperature washes soon and with a bit of luck, the load will come out as clean as it would at a higher tempature.

I by default do boil-washes at 95 obviously, towels at 60, normal and dark loads at 40 and some delicate and wool loads at 30.

My washing habits could change as I hope to be more eco-friendly. After all, my Miele is rated AAA so that can only be a good thing lol.
 
~I still have odours regardless of how much detergent....

At the risk of starting WWIII.

I was entrusted with washing clothing that had been flooded and was mildewed. A top-loader was necessary that used PLENTY OF WATER.

If your clothing still smells badly, may I sugggest a cool pre-wash in the front-loader, follwed by a soaking and agitation in the bathtub with plenty of detergent. Wring. Spin thoroughly in the washer. Re-wash the regular way. ADD TWO OR THREE EXTRA RINSES. SPIN THOROUGHLY.

Make sure your machine settings are such that there is spinning/extracting beween all washes and rinses.

Also if you line dry, you may want to put the items through the tumble dryer (once already dry, but not on the line for more than 24 hours) for 10 minutes heated and 10 minutes unheated to kill-off any remaing germs that may be causing odors.

Rinsing WELL and drying quickly help to prevent odors.
Alos, Your deodorant may be goo-ing up on the shirt and trapping odors. Add liquid detergent directly to that area

Good-luck.
 
With deodorants the main problem is that they're basically designed to be water-insoluble as they're designed to remain intact in sweaty warm areas. They can completely wreck clothes and become impossible remove. You end up with a gooey mixture of chemicals and trapped sweat. Perhaps consider using a different brand of deo?

There are "3 Ts" of washing controlled by your washing machine:

1) Time
2) Turbulence
3) Temperature

Time:
If you're having problems with odour removal, use a longer cycle. This will give the detergent's enzymes in particular a longer time to work.

Turbulence:
Select a cycle with decent agitation and don't stuff the machine so full that the clothes can't move about. The trick isn't necessarily vast quantities of water, it's moving a detergent solution through the clothes constantly. Most front loaders can do this very effectively, although there are exceptions...

Temperature:
Make sure that you've selected an appropriate temp. e.g. 40C.

Chemical action:
Then you've got the factors of the wash controlled by your detergent:

You said that you're using Persil (Unilever) powder. I've found that their recent forumlations of the powder detergents are pretty poor performers when it comes to odour removal. Other posters have said this too.

Perhaps try another detergent, e.g. Ariel ?

Or, alternatively try Persil Small and Mighty. It's pretty effective stuff.

Also, make sure that you're using the correct dose of any detergent for your water quality. If you're in a very hardwater area, you might consider getting some Calgon tablets and using them in each wash.

You can also get unusual problems with some t-shirts. I had one that really didn't smell very nice no matter what I did to it. Handwashing, machine washing, using any detergent known to man. It turned out to be some kind of a coating that had been used on the fabric itself. I ended up throwing it out.

Using a liquid detergent (not concentrated) on the 'pit' area might also help a lot. Often liquid detergents are better at breaking down fatty compounds and may actually have more impact than a powder on certain type of soiling.

Final tip:

Throw a scoop of Vanish wash booster into the dipensor drawer with your detergent at the start of the wash. This contains a cocktail of enzymes, but is safe to ue with colours. It has a very impressive impact on some of the toughest problems. In general it will remove ANYTHING.
 
Washing kitchen cloths/toilet cloths ... as mentioned above

A washing machine is for washing clothes, not floor cloths. It's generally a very bad idea to introduce any of these filthy items to your washing machine. If you must wash something like that, run a 95C programme or, run one immediately afterwards, or use a disinfectant solution in the washing machine like Dettol clear.

Just remember that your washing machine handles items which are in direct contact with your skin and with sensitive areas of your body!!

Would you get into a bath after having washed the dog in it without giving it a good clean out first?

I think not..
So, basically think of your washing machine the same way regardless of whether it's a front loader or a top loader.. Treat it like it's your bathtub!
 
Actually washing machines *are* for washing floor cloths. One just needs to use a real washing machine.

Look, the bottom line is, front loaders are disgusting. They've always been disgusting. Even before all this absurd eco-hysteria kicked in, and people started feeling guilty about using more than a cup and a half of water to do their laundry.

Really dirty/bacteria-filled/etc clothing (or floor rags, or whatever else) has never been a problem for most top loaders. Why? Because these machines simply use enough WATER and AGITATION to get the job done. Hot enough water + some bleach + lots of agitation, and even bacteria such as streptococcus (which, incidentally, survived nearly two years on the surface of our *moon*) is killed in short order.

Tumbling is great for drying. It stinks (sometimes literally) for washing.
 
The pack-rat friend had dozens of huge leaf & lawn bags fiul

To get rid of the foul mildew and odors I empolyed all three of my washers!

Top loading modern GE-
Pre wash and rinse with pine-oil and detergent. Deodorant/disnfectant and spritual cleaner!

Top-loading vintage GE Filter-flo.
HEAVY cycle/programme. (Wash-Rinse-Rinse)
detergent, phosphates in wash, cheap water softener in the first rinse.

Front-loader.
Three to five rinses and a super-fast spin.

Of course the dryer's lint filter was over-taxed (and filling FAST) as all the mechanical action was harsh on fibers. The dyrer was set to "inferno" temp and all items were purposely over-dried.

In the end the itmes were nearly good-as-new.

Both styles of washers have their advantages and diadvantages. One must simply adjust and be smart to take advantage fo the benefits offered by each!
 
Whether the machine is top or front loading, uses an agitator, a drum, a pulsator, a pair of electromechanical robot hands etc really makes no difference in terms of bacteria killing. If anything, a front loader is potentially more hygienic as it has the possibility of a "boil wash" cycle to sanitise the drum completely. However, you can achieve similar results in any machine by adding chemicals to the water.

There are a few things to remember.

The majority of bacteria and viruses will actually be taken care of by a warm wash with a good detergent in either front or top loading machines. It's just really if you have a specific concern, such as a family member with some kind of contageous skin disorder, or someone in your household who is immune suppressed e.g. has had a transplant and is on anti-rejection medication, is currently undergoing certain types of chemotherapy for cancer or has AIDS and would be highly vulnerable to bacteria/viruses.

In those cases, in any type of washing machine you should use a proper laundry sanitizer in the correct concentration.

It might also be a consideration to isolate their laundry.

Floor cloths, dirty rags etc should only be washed in a disinfectant solution or, if your machine allows, boiled. They are not normal clothes, and shouldn't be washed with them.

The reality of modern fabrics means that it is not possible to boil everything nor is it advisable to use the concentrations of chlorine bleach that would be necessary to kill off the bugs.

There are perfectly good laundry sanitising products available for such situation.

If you're in the UK/Ireland you can use Dettol clear disinfectant in your front loader without any problems. Just follow the dosage instructions on the back of the bottle. It will wipe out EVERYTHING and leave the laundry perfectly hygenically clean.

The concern for washing machine health and laundry hygeine is where people do very short washes with very low temps with very little detergent. This applies to both types of washing machine.

I know I came across someone in Boston who had black mould growing in their toploader. She ran all her washes on cold/cool and used 1/4 the recommended dose and used an eco-detergent. The machine was full of undisolved detergent 'gunk' and was horrible.

To fix the problem, we ran long hot wash without clothes and on heavy agitation full to the top with a strong detergent. It readily broke down the residues and most of the gunk in the machine. We followed that off with a wash with bleach.

"stinky washing machine syndrome" is generally avoidable in either type of washing machine with the simplest of steps and really has nothing whatsoever to do with the choice of wash action used by the machine i.e. H-axis drum or V-axis agitator.

In Europe, Chlorine bleach is simply not used at all for laundry. This is because detergent manufacturers moved towards longer acting peroxide bleaching methods as it was possible to create 'universal' powders that were safe to use with coloured clothes at lower temps and then took on a more aggressive bleaching action when heated up.

When automatic washing machines became the norm in the 60s and 70s, there was a huge leap forward in enzyme technology. The result was that the new 'automatic' detergents i.e. for h-axis washing machines didn't need bleach to produce very good cleaning results. The machines all have cycles which are designed to wash the clothes at temps that are optimised for enzyme activity.

Whiteness is achieved with milder oxygen-based bleaching formulas and optical brighteners.

If you want to absolutely sanitise, you add something like Dettol or similar sanitisors to the wash and they will destroy every bacterium and virus known to man!

Alternatively, you wash at a high temp.

Regardless of what washing method you use, you really just have to be aware of what you're doing if you're laundering potentially contaminated materials.

Also, your tumble dryer or even line drying will go a long way towards killing bacteria too by heating them and drying them out.
 
You can't boil wash anything with the amount of water most of today's front loaders use. The same is true for effective bleaching (whether chlorine or peroxide).

And most FLs have at least some mold present in them, often enough to smell.

Just disgusting.
 
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