Help with wiring a motor

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Thanks everyone, none of those diagrams seem to match up to this motor per se, but I think I figured it out last night.

The answer I believe is RED-BLUE-Power  and GREEN-BLACK-Neutral, seem to get the motor to run properly, but I'm not sure if this is in high speed or not. More to come.
 
I'm not sure I like the idea of using a variac on an AC motor, low voltage can cause it to draw too much current and burn up, as often happens in a brown-out.  I would certainly use an ammeter to watch what it draws.

 

Ken D.
 
Robert,

I can't imagine what this is , and I can't WAIT to find out. Good luck. Sounds like you had a Eureka moment when the answer came to you in flash as you were distracted--or concentrating. And now, a big surprise is hiding under the Aworg Christmas Tree. This is exciting.
 
Using the variac worked because its fused and popped its fuse long before enough voltage made it to the motor to cause any harm when I was experimenting with the wires.  When I saw that I finally got the wiring set up correctly and the rotor started to turn slowly I immedialtey cranked it up to 120 volts to prevent any low-voltage issues from harming the motor.

 

Now the problem is the new motor wont fit in the space of the old motor because of the motor end bell sticking out further in the new motor.  I'm going to try and switch the motor end bell that doesn't contain the start controls, but one is a GE motor and the old bad motor that fits properly is a Westinghouse motor so I'm not sure that they are going to be compatible, but we will see.
 
That's great! You got the motor working. Would the surprise get ruined if you posted pictures of the old motor? You never know what I may have lurking about.
 
Unfortunately the new Kelvinator motor is just about 1/2" too big to fit in the motor cradle of our mystery machine, so it wont work.  ***sigh***

 

So I'll figure out something, here is the original motor to the machine.  What is unusual about it is the bearing housing for one of the end bells is on the inside of the motor.

unimatic1140++12-12-2011-23-24-44.jpg
 
Someone to help

Robert: you may want to enlist the help of Electric Motor Repair. They are located @ 2010 N. 4th St. In Minneapolis Ph# 612-588-4693. We used them at my work last summer when the motor on our Hobart Dw was damaged by a power surge. These guys are good, the motor came back like new.
New motor from Hobart= $1400
Repair by EMR= $450
I hope this helps.
Nick
 
Just blowing smoke out my arse, but I wasn't far off. Single start winding, polarity reversed by timer, separate H and L run windings with common return. Only thing I missed was the centrifugal switch between H and L. Oh, and you should be able to tell a start winding from a run, the start is smaller gauge or at least it was in the 1/4HP motor I built from a kit when I was 10 (1956).
 
WESTINGHOUSE MOTOR

Hi Robert it would best best to repair this motor by using parts from a similar WH motor from another washer or send it to a motor repair shop. WH appliances motors were never great motors and if fact we always said the worst thing about WH washers and dryers was that they used WH motors LOL. Usually only smaller second tier appliance manufactures ever used WH motors in thier washers and dryers.

 

Robert it would be helpful if you pictured the complete motor and said what it is out of as someone may have a good one laying around, also have you run the motor for a period of time while detached from the transmission to be sure that something is not binding in the transmission?
 
Hi Robert

I see on the paper label of the Westinghouse motor a requirement to "use 200MFD" which is a reference to a capacitor. (= Condenser in US English??)

Is there a problem with the cap?

Dried out caps can cause motor starting problems, or running problems if it is a Capacitor-run motor.

(Some motors use the cap just for the start circuit, others use it in the run circuit.)

also, have you checked the motor for shorts to ground?

good luck with it

Chris.
 
Well the end bells between the two motors do not work, so I'm back to square one.

Robert: you may want to enlist the help of Electric Motor Repair.
Thanks Nick, I actually went there with the motor last week, they said it needs to be rewound at a cost of around $450. That will be the last ditch effort.

also have you run the motor for a period of time while detached from the transmission to be sure that something is not binding in the transmission?
Yes, although it doesn't stop and restart when there is no load attached, it clearly does not sound right when being run on the bench. Sounds like waves slowly moving through the motor.

Robert it would be helpful if you pictured the complete motor and said what it is out of as someone may have a good one laying around
The complete motor John is pictured a few posts above in #562933 and as for saying what its out of, NO lol. :-D

Is there a problem with the cap?
No cap problem, the problem with the motor isn't starting, it is staying running. It starts just fine, and the capacitor is out of the circuit during run mode. As far as I can tell there are no shorts to ground.
 
WESTINGHOUSE MOTOR

Robert it sounds like it has bearing problems, not electrical problems, bearings were one of the frequent problems with WH motors. You could just take the end bells off another WH washer motor and switch them. I will look around and see if I can find a similar WHM. Also would the motor fit from your other similar washer? that you were thinking about parting out.
 
John no, they are not compatible, the design had changed to a removable self-contained motor and this machine is the first year of this new design.

Could be bearing issues, I'll have to investigate that further, the rotor appears to turn fine, but I'll double check that.
 
I have never seen a motor shaft so short either.

I've got it!!! I know what it is!!! The motor is from that very shallow tub Asko front loader, the one that's about three inches deep. LOL.

 

Hey gang, maybe 45 of us could chip in ten bucks and get it rewound for Robert for Christmas--just a thought, only a click away through the upgrade.
 

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