Henckel Persil, Lever Persil, Ariel..... which? where?

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arbilab

arbilab

Well-known member
Joined
May 1, 2011
Messages
5,253
Location
Ft Worth TX (Ridglea)
I still use Tide but it needs help from one of the more distinguished non-US detergents. Friend here sent a Persil sample, like it, might even pay the premium. What US online seller has the right one, which IS the right one, what is the right price?

Family Dollar down the road has Ariel from Mexico on the shelf. How's that? Is it just Tide in a Spanish box?

I use STPP, need enzymes, don't need exaggerated/lingering scents, don't need suds. Thanks.
 
I use Shout pre-spray but it's definitely not a final solution.

Not too crazy about oxygen additives, which Persil rather invented. They're not quite as destructive as sodium hypochlorite but they're still destructive. Discovered that in the Brazilian Jiu Jitsu early 00s trying to whiten the gi. Oxyclean and a little abrasion will take ANYthing apart, just like clorox. And gis are expensive.
 
Family Dollar..

Does sell Ariel USA, but, I've never seen Mexican Ariel sold at there stores. *Some* Krogers on the other hand do sell Mexican Imported Ariel, as well as, Meijers, and some Wal-Mart stores. I think I've also seen it at Target a couple of years ago. 

 

The Ariel USA, or now called "Ariel Classico", is Tide + Bleach Alternative, Mountain Spring scent. It is still manufactured, and from what I can tell, seems to be selling well. Although, it's performance doesn't touch a truly phosphated detergent. 
 
The Persil Universal powder by Henkel in the green, white and yellow box does not have any bleach. As for finding a seller, my advice is to Google Henkel Persil and see who has the best price and free shipping.
 
I have Persil Universal Powder by Henkel.  It works very well and doesn't need any additional  products added to it but I think it does contain oxygen bleach. My box says between 5 and 15%. I figure it is in there in the correct proportion because I've been washing the same undershirts over and over  for 8 years and they haven't fallen apart into holes or anything.

 

I think the name is misleading.  It says Universal, but it is not recommended for darker colors so there isn't exactly anything universal like we would think. Instead for colors you use Persil for colors which does a very good job with colors too and no oxygen bleach or brighteners. 
 
Mexican Ariel has "DOBLE PODER" on the label and comes in a bag... Excellent stuff... Walmart carries the Americanized Ariel in the bag, but it is not as good...
.
I've used British Corner Shop for UK Persil... That stuff is fantastic... You can get UK Ariel at the same link, but the scent is different than the Mexican Ariel (funkier, unpleasant to me)...
.

http://www.britishcornershop.co.uk/shop.asp?action=search
 
Thanks folks. Keep them coming. You understand my confusion, as NObody comes right out and says what is or isn't in stuff.

So Ariel IS just one of the Tides in a different box. Getting harder to find 'JPOT', just plain old Tide. Kroger quit carrying Tide HE powder--had to make room for the "plus collection" [rolleyes]--and the liquid ain't so hot.

And 'regular' Persil is rough on colors? Seems that's what they want us to think, by selling a version that 'isn't'.

Y'see, I have a skin cancer on my back that isn't the one that kills you (or I'd already be dead) but it does 'leak' so my tshirts end up with dried blood stains and those are the very dickens to get out. It takes heroic chemistry plus time. Well, time I've got (retired and bored shirtless) so I'm looking for the best chemistry that eats blood but not cotton.
 
A friend just returned from a trip to Mexico. He brought me a bag of the real deal: Ariel Doble Poder.

Unlike Americanized Ariel sold in bags through various vendors, this has the classic "powdered Sweet-Tarts" smell that I enjoyed back when Venus was keeping me stocked with a variety of south-of-the-border detergents.

Can't wait to get home and wash bed linens tonight! Sometimes it's the little things that bring joy to one's day.

frigilux++5-8-2014-10-16-8.jpg
 
Ahh, it remueves manchas dificiles a la primera lavada! I want that! But of course, packaging is known to exaggerate its poder.

Might try overnight bucket soak in high-dose Tide. Trouble with cold/warm, my understanding that enzymes work better hot.
 
OK, hottest I've got is 120F and machine (all ABS) can't take hotter. Prewash is 100F to liquefy skin oil/wax but not set stains. Thought warm --> hot was the progression.

Soak time is 3x agitate time (up to an hour total). Weakens stains but doesn't remove them all. Then there's this t-shirt I have on now, where the blood turned to newspaper ink. Not sure what did that but doubt it will ever come out.

I'm obviously not doing 'everything' right. But this kind of problem never came up until I got old/decrepit/leaky.
 
Why not just spray a good quality stain remover over the blood stains before putting in the wash? GNLD Super 10 is excellent (that's all I use), otherwise Vanish sprays, but not sure if you get Vanish in the USA. But I would highly recommend GNLD Super 10, and/or their oxygen bleach powder - both deliver brilliant results!
Or, if you can find a South African shop or online shop that sells South African products, try get some OMO multi active hand wash powder. Its the best selling detergent in the country, and our grandmothers have been using it for donkeys years because it can literally remove any stain. My mom and I use it and I know for a fact it removes blood.

Matthew
 
STPP will help remove blood from fabric in warm water. Blood is only soluble in water twice: when it is fresh and then once more. That is why blood is used in plant sprays to bind the sprays to foliage because rain won't rinse it away. Remember when laundry man Mac was washing hospital linens and operating room cloths? He told us that in the summer the cold water in the prewash soak was so warm it would set blood unless he added STPP to remove the blood even in very warm water. I think it was called a hot break so if you are not presoaking the tee shirts, you should be adding STPP to the prewash to prevent the 100F water from setting the blood. Now, if you have very old blood stains, you can try a product called Whink rust remover. You dampen the fabric and squirt this on the stain. It is the oxidized iron in the blood stain that makes the stain bind to the fabric. You need a reducing reaction to break the bond between the iron and the oxygen and the acid in Whink breaks the bond. I think the hydrogen in the acid combines with the oxygen in the iron oxide from the hemoglobin and frees the iron. Anyway, this stuff comes in a brown plastic bottle near the laundry detergents. It sometimes takes two treatments, but all you have to do is rinse out the first treatment and squirt on the next so it's easy to do at the sink.
 
I do not find european stuff to be any better......especially persil, it is not even the best sold over here...first comes P&g dash...
I do not understand why there is a such a thing for this persil, there are much better products around and of which countless american ones.
Henkel persil powder DO CONTAIN bleach. Oxygen bleaching agents, persil it is actually universal and can be used for colors and darks, even though for best results they reccomend the color version....but there is no label stating you cannot wash colors or darks with it and you actually can, did that all the times, and so does the most of folks in this country where stuff for colors isn't really common, what you cannot do with it it's woolens, obviously.

For blood, either fresh or old, really I have nothng to say, for me it usually gets out just fine with an hot wash and regular "good" detergent, no prewash, no cold start, and cannot really understand how some people do have so many difficulties removing it, I do not even have problems and concerns about it getting "fixed" with an hot start, never......it gets washed out, always and really simply.

Enzymes sure helps, it's an enzymatic stain but also bleachable so oxy stuff also works.....

But again, never had problems .... So cannot give other advices than just tossing in the washer and wash...
At this point....
What I would do is soak the item in a really generous amount of detergent, you could even try making a paste with the detergent and let it sit on the stain for awhile....
 
If anything removes the blood that turned to newspaper ink I will surely report it here. But I'm not optimistic. It looks like something took the oxygen out of the rust and turned it back to iron left in the fabric. ....I could test to see if it's magnetic....

I *think* I did use STPP on the ink tshirt, but I didn't log this stuff. Until I got this old and leaky I never had problems like this. It's fun in a way, because I spent my whole career analyzing things and now I have little to do but cook, eat, and sleep.
 
Look, as a collector of vintage linens as my mother was I can tell you the biggest deal is to grab rust stained items for norhing or as much as 1€ at flea markets and during time I have experienced my method to bring them to life again, really simple, , smal spots of rust usually get clean with an hot wash 140f in the filter flo with good detergent, or soap with addition of percarbonate, perborate, , blood always comes out, no matter how old or dry it is, never had a problem...
But I could grab splendid bed sheets and table clothes where rust totally became part of the fabric and you could feel the hardness of the iron to be stuck in the clothing, they usually comes out with alos as iron became part of clothing..
I treat them like this:
To weaken the extra rust I do a wash with plenty of detergent 3-4 scoops in hot water 140f ( my water supply reach 150f).... I do stop machine for an overnight soak...
Let it compete cycle the next day...
Get it out the washer, check that it is enough weakened, start machine again and as soon as the washer filled I treat the stain with a specific product for rust called "rapida" togliruggine (italian product) and toss in the washer quickly.... It's the best product I could use...
It is fluoridric acid and if it sits too long it will weaken the clothing, but it is a kind of product that somehow is safe to be used on colors and does not damage them if you make sure you immediately toss the clothing in the machine with water in the first minutes.... Not any damage or weakening of the treated point....
I brought to life again linens ane clothes that most of commercials laundries my friends or relatives could bring them to, renounced to get clean.....
Another stain that most friends bring to me is mold, I succed in removing it just fine with an hot wash, nothing more, thing that with my big surprise says they cannot manage to do..... This obviously when it is not so much attached badly and turned to be all the fiber to be mold...then you cannot do anything, well mold goes away but you get an hole where first you had mold....as it is washed away like dirt is...

All this to say that if really you cannot get it away with a wash, you may try the fluoridric product....I attach a link, can send you some if you want...it fits in an envelope, it should not cost much to ship, but I bet in the US you can find equivalent stuff....
 
For rust stains, you are supposed to use Citric Acid (lemon juice).

I would NOT be using Hydrofluoric Acid!!!

This is highly dangerous stuff. It even reacts with glass, apparently. There was an article years ago in some television programme, where mention was made of vehicle fires. Apparently, the heat of the flames is such that rubber hoses, which used fluorine in manufacture, formed this acid. Once on the human body, the only action was amputation of the affected limb.
 
Hmmm...

About now is the time we should see the post about how "wonderful" cold water washing is:
Perhaps you should try it, it gets all my stuff "perfectly clean!" And it saves energy. *Kidding*

If you have whites, bleach.
Colours or Whites: Oxy bleach at median temperature, the use the affected area is a curtain to sun bleach it.
I know you didn't want this - but desperate times call for desperate matters
 
Rolls......, Rain is not dangerous, but a monsoon can kill you....
Citric acid is fresh water for rust stains like that, and the lemon juice has little concentrations of it, for what concerns dangerousnees of hydrofluoric, it's not like you are supposed to use it pure, any acid or alkaline stuff is potentially dangerous if pure, even cloridric acid you also find in limescale cleansers like viakal etc... if in bigger concentration will not remove limescale from your toilet, it will totally melt it, just think we use 90% solution in our company to make pure gold as it dissolves all metals except gold, also have you ever heard about mafia using it to dissolves bodies? Could you do that with Viakal???? LOL
But in fair concentration will get your bowl clean, and is safe any use for which domestic/cleaning is supposed to be used to...
Same is here, the product I linked is perfectly okay to be used on clothing and even colored ones, as you can read, but it's an acid and it is best to do not let it sit too much and you got to' flush it immediately from clothing, so you bettter alteady fill your machine before for the 2nd wash, the product has a concentration of 15% acid, if I remember correctly.
If it was not so, it would melt your item not only remove rust, sure is that it is a chemical, and you have to use precautions, ie use gloves if your skin is delicate, avoid stiffing it in your nose or drops to reach your eyes....etc...
Pretty much all things that a normal functioning adult would do, and like you do for any other chemical you use in your household...
 

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