Here we go again, this time with a trio of Ingrahams.

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d-jones

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These motors all belong to a member of this blog. He sent them to me months ago to see if anything could be done for them, and after putting them off, and putting them off, it's finally time to get busy. As some of you will recall I've been down this path before, but the first time involved a great deal of trial and error. If I learned anything at all the last time then things should go much more smoothly this time around, but we'll see. Disassembly sure went quickly, so hopefully that's a good sign.

 

Pic 1) To start things off, the little thin nut indicated by the red arrow needs to be removed as seen in pic two. Once that's done the top cover can be lifted off.

 

Pic 3) Now the mounting lugs for the electrical connections have to be withdrawn from the case. To do that the solder must be removed where indicated by the arrows.

 

Pic 4) With the solder removed the mounting lugs come out as an assembly as you see here. Now the little motor assembly can be lifted out of its housing as seen in pic five.

 

 

 

 

[this post was last edited: 1/30/2015-22:08]

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Pic 1) Here's where things start to get a bit tricky. To remove the inner workings of the motor from the motor body, you first have to undo the stakes that hold it in. There are five of them evenly spaced around the edge as indicated by the yellow arrows. I use a very small pair of pliers to bend the metal edge back just a bit, and as the metal bends back the stakes are pulled clear of the little metal deck. That being said, the little metal deck fits snugly, so it won't come falling out. You'll need to massage it out very carefully. This is a case where haste makes waste, so take your time. Once you've got it out you'll finally be able to see your goal, the little spool of wire that forms the motors windings.(see pic two)

 

Pic 3) Now the little spool can be lifted out, and at this point we're pretty well done with disassembly

 

That's all for now, but stay tuned for the exciting conclusion.

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I'm watching this anxiously!!  
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Just a bit more progress today.

Pic 1) Apart from removal of the old wire, all three of the motors are now fully disassembled. Notice all the green oxidation that's formed on the left hand motor. Yikes! Every bit of that'll need to be removed. The other two motors are pretty clean, but they'll still get a good going over with solvent prior to reassembly.

 

Pic 2) Here we have two different methods of fixing the metal contacts in place. On the left hand spool the plastic has been melted over the top of them with a soldering iron. It works but it's ugly. This is how the Apex timers motor was done. On the right the metal contacts seem to have been cemented in with epoxy, a much more professional looking method. This time around I intend to leave them in place.

 

Pic 3) To mount the spool in the drill motor an ordinary drum sander mandrel is used, but I had to shave it down a bit to get it to fit. Also take note of the top and bottom edges of the spool. As you can see the wire doesn't need to be rolled on perfectly flat and even. None of these are, so when the new wire is wound on keep it level as best you can and it'll likely be fine. That's it for today.

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Well I'm happy to see you guys have tuned in! Bated breath is fine, just don't hold your breath. It'll likely be Friday before I have anything more to post and I don't want anyone turning blue or passing out! LOL!

 

Like all of you, I'm really looking forward to seeing how these come out!
 
Nice work!

 

Last summer, I had a bad headlight relay on my '67 Riviera. Since removing the spool from that relay without destructing it was impossible, I spent an afternoon to manually remove and <span style="font-size: 14pt;">reuse</span> <span style="font-size: 8pt;">(you can call me crazy for doing that!)</span> what was still good of the original hair-thin wiring. I think I should just have bought new wire but I didn't know where to get that! With about a hundred feet of wire missing, I wasn't even sure it would work!

 

Well, it did work! But I didn't trust it to work for a long time so I had to order a new incorrect relay and modify it with parts from the old one as the original ones are NLA! 

 

Where do you get new wire to repair the windings? If I had that, I guess I could at least have used something like an empty pencil or the straw from a Q-tip to rewind the tiny spool of the relay
 
Phil

The wire used by Ingraham for these little motors is 39 AWG, which measures in at .0035 inches, but the coat of varnish causes it to measure just a tad thicker. Not knowing in advance what size the wire was in this case, I used a micrometer to measure it, then found the correct wire using a chart. Wire like this is often available locally if you know where to look, but you can also get it online. Amazon actually carries it in a number of different gauges.
 
Not a whole lot of progress today.

Pic 1) I'd like to be able to reassemble all of them at the same time, so I decided to clean up the one with all of the corrosion first and it took much longer than I thought it would. In truth I'm still not done. It really was a bit of a mess. The little rotor unit seen in the center was actually glued in place by corrosion and old lube.

 

Pic 2) Even scrubbing in solvent didn't get it all off, so I had to resort to a more aggressive method.

 

Pic 3) Better, but it still isn't quite done.

 

Pic 4) While I was at it I bead blasted the old paint and any corrosion off the old motor housings. They'll both get refinished and baked in the oven prior to reassembly, so they should end up looking new, but since one motor arrived without its outer housing there's nothing I can do there.

 

All in all a bit of a disappointing day. I had hoped to get more done, so it looks like I'll be going back over tomorrow to continue on. One other thing I got done was to record the starting weight of each spool with its wire in place, and while I was doing that I noticed that the spool from the corroded motor isn't exactly the same as the other two. It's the same diameter, but if you see it sitting next to one of the others it's noticeably shorter. However, its wire is wound on closer to the outer edge, so I'm betting that when I weigh the removed wire it'll end up being about the same amount as the other two.

 

 

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Scrubbing in solvent…

Great stuff D-Jones!!,
"Scrubbing in solvent.…"
Are you using an ultrasonic bath for the cleaning? Cause I'm not seeing any swirl marks from whatever it is you're using for the scrubbing. Lol
Top notch job though!!!

Hey and please include some detailed pics of this grain powder scale for the wire, curious what it actually looks like??
 
Just a bit more to report today.

In picture three directly above I removed all the corrosion I could without disassembling the little reduction gear assembly, so to get the rest I went ahead and disassembled it. In pic one you can see what was hiding underneath.

 

Pic 2) All cleaned up.

 

Pic 3) Reassembled

 

Pic 4) The housings have been repainted, baked at 250 for an hour and a half, and are ready for final assembly.

 

David - I don't have anything as high tech as an ultrasonic cleaner on hand, so it's an old tooth brush and Bon Ami that does the job. Bon Ami is a very mild abrasive as cleansers go, so that's likely why you don't see any swirl marks. It takes longer but it's worth it. When I get to the point where I'm weighing the wire removed from the spools I'll be sure to get a good photo of the scale for you.

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Pic#4 housings -baking the paint…

Ok d-j
Will look out for the "scale pics" , thanks!
And ditto for the bon ami tip.

So whats the deal with the baked paint? Is it a black version of motor winding varnish?
Looks factory.
No sags , peels, runs ,artist -brush marks,
???You using one of those small air brush set ups?
 

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