bobbins
Active member
Has anyone own or have pictures of a Hobart UM-4 series undercounter dishwasher?
These SS commercial models are very similar to the KD-12!
Bob
These SS commercial models are very similar to the KD-12!
Bob
Hobart UM-4 Undercounter Dishwasher
- Thread starter bobbins
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toploader55
Well-known member
Oh Boy
Yes, they're exactly the same except the Um4 has a smaller wash chamber.
I'll let Dr. Stevet take this thread from here.
This pic is from my KD2-P Top Load Portable.(1957)
Yes, they're exactly the same except the Um4 has a smaller wash chamber.
I'll let Dr. Stevet take this thread from here.
This pic is from my KD2-P Top Load Portable.(1957)
stevet
Well-known member
What do you need to know
Ask away and I will help you as best I can. If you are looking to get one, better be able to gravity drain it as they never came with pumped drains. Also, have a spare machine or two since parts are obsolete or barely but very expensively available.
I had one set up at my mom's house years ago and I did have a pumped drain on it using a KD14 motor and pump but also modified it to work with a WM series timer which allowed for the pumped drain function. Still had the 3 minute cycles and we loved it at holiday times. dishes done and returned to the table before half of it was cleared off! And Spotless too!
It also helped to have a few sets of kd12 and 14 dishracks as they held more in a better configuration that the original UM racks. Pretty much the same setup but just provided more sapce to rack on the sides of the racks.
Ask away and I will help you as best I can. If you are looking to get one, better be able to gravity drain it as they never came with pumped drains. Also, have a spare machine or two since parts are obsolete or barely but very expensively available.
I had one set up at my mom's house years ago and I did have a pumped drain on it using a KD14 motor and pump but also modified it to work with a WM series timer which allowed for the pumped drain function. Still had the 3 minute cycles and we loved it at holiday times. dishes done and returned to the table before half of it was cleared off! And Spotless too!
It also helped to have a few sets of kd12 and 14 dishracks as they held more in a better configuration that the original UM racks. Pretty much the same setup but just provided more sapce to rack on the sides of the racks.
bobbins
Active member
Yes - I am looking for one. In fact, I have a huge inventory of brand new Hobart parts for the UM Hobart dishwasher (mostly strainer, screws, timers, rotors and a rack).
Last week I just picked up a WM-5 Hobart for $140! With a built in heater....needs a new motor (I am thinking one of my KA dishwashers motor should work). The WM-5 requires 240V. Last week I was able to find a brand new replacement motor and a bunch of new parts. I might consider to purchase them. My goal is to get a UM-4 model - great machines! Do you have a service manual for a UM-4 and WM-5 Hobarts?
I am still trying to restore a KD-12 - but the enamel tubs are worn and rusted. The Hobart UH-4 with a SS tub is far more superior.
Bob
Last week I just picked up a WM-5 Hobart for $140! With a built in heater....needs a new motor (I am thinking one of my KA dishwashers motor should work). The WM-5 requires 240V. Last week I was able to find a brand new replacement motor and a bunch of new parts. I might consider to purchase them. My goal is to get a UM-4 model - great machines! Do you have a service manual for a UM-4 and WM-5 Hobarts?
I am still trying to restore a KD-12 - but the enamel tubs are worn and rusted. The Hobart UH-4 with a SS tub is far more superior.
Bob
stevet
Well-known member
Good Finds, My friend
The WM 5 uses the same pump assembly piece for piece as the 18, 19 and 20 series Kitchenaid dishwashers. It will drop right into position in your WM-5. Remember there are 2 or 3 spring clamps that clamp it against the washtank and it would be easier to replace it before installing the machine.
Does your machine have the heating element in the sump or is it a model without it?
My best friend has a FFW unit in his kitchen which is basically the WM5 modified for any Fast Foood operation. Hobart made the FFB, FFM and FFW for the Burger Kings, McDonalds when they still saw fit to sanitize the trays we eat off of!
His has the built in soap and rinse dispenser pumps so he uses liquid detergents and such.
He also modified his machine to bypass the booster tank and draw directly off his hot water supply as well as he can interrupt the timer for extended washes. Works well for him.
Like Toploader stated, the UM had a small washchamber but you will be able to fit plates and such in it and it will do a great job,but you should really make sure you can get at least 150-160 degree water to it. Otherwise the soils won't be removed and they will not flash dry properly.
On the WM5 you can use it without the booster and save alot of electricity by just disconnecting the heater leads. If your water is up there already, why bother making it even hotter?
It uses like 35 amps to heat that water tank so you will need at least a 50 amp 220 volt line to it with 4 wires. 2 hots,a SEPARATE, LOAD CARRYING NEUTRAL AND A SEPARATE GROUND.It does not delay the wash or rinse if the booster tank is cold! If you elect to not heat it, you will want to run at least a cycle to get the water up to your max available temp. That was also why my friend added additional solenoids and switches so he could get that into the machine without going thru the booster at all which is about 6 gallons in capacity.
You may just be able to fit the 18,and up lower basket into the WM5, though I think it may be a bit too long as the tank is not the same dimension as the dometic machine,(note the cutout for the washarm in the back) but give it a try,or maybe another rack from another manufacturer.That way you get some versatility out of it and get the dishes done even faster!
You have some cool projects to play with so keep us in touch.
http:// AND A GROUND
The WM 5 uses the same pump assembly piece for piece as the 18, 19 and 20 series Kitchenaid dishwashers. It will drop right into position in your WM-5. Remember there are 2 or 3 spring clamps that clamp it against the washtank and it would be easier to replace it before installing the machine.
Does your machine have the heating element in the sump or is it a model without it?
My best friend has a FFW unit in his kitchen which is basically the WM5 modified for any Fast Foood operation. Hobart made the FFB, FFM and FFW for the Burger Kings, McDonalds when they still saw fit to sanitize the trays we eat off of!
His has the built in soap and rinse dispenser pumps so he uses liquid detergents and such.
He also modified his machine to bypass the booster tank and draw directly off his hot water supply as well as he can interrupt the timer for extended washes. Works well for him.
Like Toploader stated, the UM had a small washchamber but you will be able to fit plates and such in it and it will do a great job,but you should really make sure you can get at least 150-160 degree water to it. Otherwise the soils won't be removed and they will not flash dry properly.
On the WM5 you can use it without the booster and save alot of electricity by just disconnecting the heater leads. If your water is up there already, why bother making it even hotter?
It uses like 35 amps to heat that water tank so you will need at least a 50 amp 220 volt line to it with 4 wires. 2 hots,a SEPARATE, LOAD CARRYING NEUTRAL AND A SEPARATE GROUND.It does not delay the wash or rinse if the booster tank is cold! If you elect to not heat it, you will want to run at least a cycle to get the water up to your max available temp. That was also why my friend added additional solenoids and switches so he could get that into the machine without going thru the booster at all which is about 6 gallons in capacity.
You may just be able to fit the 18,and up lower basket into the WM5, though I think it may be a bit too long as the tank is not the same dimension as the dometic machine,(note the cutout for the washarm in the back) but give it a try,or maybe another rack from another manufacturer.That way you get some versatility out of it and get the dishes done even faster!
You have some cool projects to play with so keep us in touch.
http:// AND A GROUND
bobbins
Active member
Hi Steve,
You are awesome...I been thinking about disconnecting the heater and I will probably need a schematic from you as to the wiringn (little more instructions). Also can you send my your link again?
Thank you!!!!
Bob
You are awesome...I been thinking about disconnecting the heater and I will probably need a schematic from you as to the wiringn (little more instructions). Also can you send my your link again?
Thank you!!!!
Bob
stevet
Well-known member
Missing link!
Sorry, Bob,
I must have clicked to add a link but there wasn't any link to direct you to.
As far as disabling the heater for the booster, you just have to disconnect the leads to the element itself and insulate them so that they dont short out on anything. If your unit has a contactor for it, you can just disconnect one of the contactor coil leads and that will disable the heater as well.
If you can find the "ML" number of the unit I can see what specific info I may have that I can share with you.
Also, there should be a wiring diagram on the back of the lower panel of the unit so check there first.
Sorry, Bob,
I must have clicked to add a link but there wasn't any link to direct you to.
As far as disabling the heater for the booster, you just have to disconnect the leads to the element itself and insulate them so that they dont short out on anything. If your unit has a contactor for it, you can just disconnect one of the contactor coil leads and that will disable the heater as well.
If you can find the "ML" number of the unit I can see what specific info I may have that I can share with you.
Also, there should be a wiring diagram on the back of the lower panel of the unit so check there first.
bobbins
Active member
Hi Steve,
The ML is 107352 and model WM-5H.
I hope to have pictures posted this weekend.....
Thanks again!
Cheers,
Bob
The ML is 107352 and model WM-5H.
I hope to have pictures posted this weekend.....
Thanks again!
Cheers,
Bob
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