Hobart WM-1D dishwasher

[mikeCL]

Around 3 min you see black water come from the inlet. Water will always fill inside the DW unless water is turned off.. Can't find booster water valve yet..

Hobart dishwasher:

http://hobart dishwasher: youtu.be/tMBE-pY3u94

 

[stevet]

This just keeps growing!

Figured I would answer your email here since you sent the same video to me earlier in the day.

First,you need to disconnect the pump power by disconnecting the black and white wires that come out of it. If you ever intend to use it, you don't want to keep cooking the windings and the start switch contacts.Remember, I told you that you can't buy that start switch anymore!

Second, your fill valve diaphragm is shot and that is why it is leaking.So make plans to rebuild or replace both of the valves as the second rinse valve will probably be just as bad.

Third,you photographed the supply valve for the booster a few days ago so you will need to turn that on to see if the water will run thru the booster and how well the second fill valve works.

The normal sequence is fill with valve 1 and wash pump runs, then drain solenoid opens(pump running at same time), then it closes and then valve 2 opens to partially fill and then drain snaps open again, then valve 2 opens to fill completely and then the drain solenoid opens again to drain it. The pump stops as the timer comes to the end of its cycle.

I told you that the timer has 2 complete cycles within 360 degrees of rotation. It will stop cycle 1 at 180. If you unlatch the door which you did at the end of the video, it will advance to start another cycle as seen in your clip. The machine doesn't care if the door is opened or not, it has a switch mounted at the latch to make the timer ready itself to start again as soon as the door is closed and latched.

The black stuff could be crap inside your building plumbing or the diaphragm as well. All you need is a piece of galvanized or black pipe somewhere in your water line that someone may have used in a pinch and you can get the black stuff coming out. But getting the machine working is the first priority.

In all honesty, Mike, you will probably have a much easier time pulling the machine out when you are really ready to tackle this project. You have too much stuff to fix in a very small area in which to work and it is much easier to be able to attack it from all four sides and to even turn it over if need be.(please remove the wash arm before turning it over)

You know how to reach me if you need to as well as anyone else here on the forum.
This should be enough to ponder for you for now!

Later
Steve

 

[mikeCL]

I did find in the blueprints of the pluming the booster hookup while I'm not home right now I took pictures of the solenoids valves. I noticed is the booster must be on the same line, if I open the valve the water entering in the DW slows, when I close the valve on the booster it begins to build in the booster but can't fully because of the valve leak.

 

[mikeCL]

Ok here are the pictures

 

[mikeCL]

And one more

 

[stevet]

A real Nightmare!

Those line strainers in front of the water valves look like they are cast iron instead of brass, You do NOT want to touch those clamps as the screws will probably break. The actual solenoids are the older style 3/8" Asco valves. I will check to see if there are still rebuilding kits available thru Hobart for you. You will definitely want to pull the machine out to rebuild and replace those parts.
They are flanged to the inlet piping so those 2 bolts on the egg shaped pieces will come out and the flanges will separate. You will need o-rings to reseal them when put back together.
Like I said before, this is not a quick fix project until you get it out and really look it over and determine if you can handle it.

 

[mikeCL]

I was doing more searching since they were good with keeping everthing I found these two things.. Looks like the DW was serviced in '85 but the person wirting did not press hard enough on the carbon copy so I can't make out what was serviced.

It wont be untill few weeks until I can look at this due to all the moving around, I want to store and work on it in a storage closet so once everything dies down I will start.

And I agree Steve it would be far better to have full asess of the DW you can move much faster by just having enough room.

I thank you again for the info you given me on the phone, having said that the health inspector like you said will test the water temp as I saw his report on the dishwasher which I only saw up to the year 2000.

I'm ok doing this I just hate working in limted space because of no freedom of movement.

 

[mikeCL]

Oh boy.. so I guess me turning on the water valve under the sink.. it now causes a very tiny waterflow stream into the DW now.. so now the DW is always full of water the next day after you drain it..

 

[ectofix]

That's an easy fix compared to your Hobart machine. That orange-handled gate valve (feeding the pressure reducing valve) in your picture in Post# 751297 probably just needs a new rubber washer. Any hardware store can hook you up. I recommend taking it apart and take the parts you removed with you to the hardware store.

 

[mikeCL]

Found the shut off maybe next week I might be able to free it under the sink.

Hey Steve I've been running the other DW and I noticed I can't turn the motor by hand as well.. At least the spindle part. Any info on how much it pumps a min and its psi?

 

[mikeCL]

Yikes.. I'm not really sure how I can get to the two pipes to the back of the DW.. I have my tools ready to take it apart but because the side of the sink just has a cutout for the drain, water inlet and pressure valve the rest is all solid metal.. My only other option is to cut a section out of the metal under the sink.. I can't swing my tools from the booster side because it's on the far end and narrow.

It seems like the sink was installed around the DW and any repairs to it or line disconnection was a afterthought.

I turned the main water valve off for the DW so no more filling up when it's not on, not sure if you had any luck looking for info on the solenoid valves.

 

[mikeCL]

Ok I think I will just disconnect from the booster and do it that way.. hopfully will be able to pull it out before I leave.

 

[mikeCL]

Ok it's out! I have the info on the solenoid valves

The conduit had lots of rust so I will be replacing that.

 

[mikeCL]

Motor is out! That part was pretty easy

 

[stevet]

Gorgeous!

Who wouldn't want one of these in their kitchen today? A Classic beauty in the best of Hobart tradition.
Mike, I emailed you on some of your questions.
Steve

 

[mikeCL]

It's cleaning up pretty well I cleaned the front door.. the mirror finish is amazing for the age!

I think the picture speaks for it's self

This is the part I got stuck on now

 

[mikeCL]

Btw Steve are you sugesting I get new solenoid valves instead?

 

[mikeCL]

Well because I can't get the drain pump off because of the last screw and my impact screwdriver is not helping on this one.. I may have to drill it out..

meanwhile I took off the cover on the underside of the motor and that bearing is fine and spins freely.

 

[mikeCL]

Well got the motor apart but I lost the fan on the motor, I still have the shims

I assume because of all that the motor is no longer good? No fan replacements.. it keeps telling me the number has changed.. on each thing which ends up taking me to a $500 motor and gasket set.

 

[stevet]

Pricey...Yes...but

You are probably looking at the Hobart issued replacement motor for it. That is a complete motor kit with the starting capacitor and is an Emerson sourced motor similar in design to the Emerson square sided motors that first appeared on the Kitchenaids in the 21 series. Eventually, all the older round Hobart/Kitchenaid motors were replaced by the square sided models. They had one for the WM series and another for the WM-5 series which was the same as the motors that replaced the KD 18 thru 20 series motors as well as being used in the Hobart SR24 series commercial machines which were produced up until late last year.

As you know, you can get the motor for you machine on Ebay so make sure that you get yourself one for a much more reasonable cost.