Hokey set-up, but I'll be danged - it works!

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crevicetool

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 4, 2010
Messages
392
Location
Snellville Ga.
I bought this Universal range several months ago now, and after a particularly crummy week - I decided I needed some "play" time. The range is in no way capable of being plugged in unless I want to see a fireworks display in my garage so I just decided to energize what is supposed to be a "Range Indicator" system of lights to show how "hot" a burner is.

Here's the patent for it:

crevicetool++3-15-2014-20-57-59.jpg
 
They are cam shaped and when first turned to "on" it uncovers a rectangular hole behind which is positioned a clear "C-7" like light bulb. The switch also turns the light on. (There are four of them)

crevicetool++3-15-2014-21-09-45.jpg
 
Every company!

Had some neat method of showing different heats....GE and Hotpoint had lighted pushbuttons, Norge had 2 different systems, first they had big round indicators that lit up to show which coils were at what heat, then the later ones had clear indicators in the center of the knobs that glowed different colors, Westinghouse had a similar system and later had arc shaped windows that glowed different colors,the early 50s Crosleys also had a small window, or lens that glowed different colors, were the old products not wonderful!
 
Yes they ARE infinite switches...

This is the switch block. The four switches are not independently servicable. Unfortunate, but understandable considering the switches are "accuated" by an electric motor as described in the thread below.


crevicetool++3-15-2014-21-18-24.jpg
 
Tuttle & Kift

This is a Tuttle and Kift switch assembly. Very rugged, and as far as I can tell, all four switches still operate. I may investigate it further, but will probably NOT use this set-up at restoration. Likely, I will be using Robertshaw infinite switches that have the bi-metal thermo-type control. I think it will be more reliable.

crevicetool++3-15-2014-21-24-24.jpg
 
However, the switch was built in January of 1946 as can be seen stamped on it - so who's to say what's reliable?

But I do not know what this little box is on the side of the switch. I'm guessin' it's a step-down transformer for the lights and the "clock" motor which operate on 110 volts. But, I know that 110 volts is available elsewhere in the range for the oven light, and the extra outlet - so, ???

Anyway, the lights and the motor were hooked up to it, but there is black(ish) soot next to the box and the bottom terminal is melted. Anyone know the function of this little box?

crevicetool++3-15-2014-21-26-26.jpg
 
BTW...

There are only two original burners (eyes) on this range, the right rear, that can be seen in the picture above, and the open-coil type that is in the deep-well cooker. The remaining monotube is a Universal SuperHeat single element. The two burners in front were replaced with two-element chromalox(s). When I disassembled the range top to get to the switches, I noticed that someone had placed jumper wires between the terminals to energize both coils as the switches only have two (not four) terminals.

Here's a better view of the motor...

crevicetool++3-15-2014-21-41-34.jpg
 
The switch "bank" has to do several functions. Each heat switch has to turn it's corresponding light on indepentent of the other three, and at the same time energize the "timer" motor. I have looked up both patents stamped on the body (interesting - they are in sequence #2194586, and 2194587)and will be investigating them further. If it turns out that the switch block (bank - I like that term better - thanks) is safe and functional, I may use it - but, I need to figure out what that box used to do or simply supply a seperate 110 volt system for the lights and motor. I will be having to supply the lights no matter what I do as far as burner control....

BTW, one terminal of each light bulb was connected to the same terminal that led to the burner which gets 220 volts.

Hope this wasn't TOO boring for y'all

Rick
 
The switch "bank" has to do several functions. Each heat switch has to turn it's corresponding light on indepentent of the other three, and at the same time energize the "timer" motor. I have looked up both patents stamped on the body (interesting - they are in sequence #2194586, and 2194587)and will be investigating them further. If it turns out that the switch block (bank - I like that term better - thanks) is safe and functional, I may use it - but, I need to figure out what that box used to do or simply supply a seperate 110 volt system for the lights and motor. I will be having to supply the lights no matter what I do as far as burner control....

BTW, one terminal of each light bulb was connected to the same terminal that led to the burner which gets 220 volts.

Hope this wasn't TOO boring for y'all

Rick
 

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