Hooking up a second dryer

[travlincub321]

Ok, in my garage i have the space for a second dryer as well.. but i need to know how i would hook up a second gas dryer.. If i could.. Or would i need to get a second stub installed??? I do have a 240 volt plug for an electric dryer, so thats not an issue...
I am looking at an older montgomery wards dryer, amana dryer thats about 12 years old, a 5 or so year old speed queen, or the touch pad electronic kenmore mentoned earlier.. Or a Gas maytag dependable care or the twin to the whirlpool washer i found

Lemme know..

 

[toggleswitch2]

As I learned from waher buddy in Massachusetts (Hi Ron!) Go

Change a pipe elbow or a pipe nipple to a "T" and go from there.

The flex gas connector gets sealant where it connects to other pumbing (or the machine) and there are parts that connect to one antoher on the flex-connector that do not get sealant. If you dont understand this or if you are not 100% comfortable with gas, I suggest you hire a qualified party to connect your 2nd gas dryer. It is not worth the risk.

Also, vent pipes /exhausting should not be shared; you don't wnat byproducts of combustion coming back into the house/garage/basement.

 

[cleanteamofny]

Go gas, go modern, go *BOOM*

Toggles,

I'm tapping my feet, pointing my finger and shaking my head!
You are so wrong but so funny!

View attachment cleanteamofny++9-30-2009-07-28-48.jpg

 

[panthera]

Toggles,

You hit the detonator right on the head, as usual. Good advice!

When we changed out the old water heater at my folk's place, I read through the rules for the new flex couplings and noted the 'no dope' rule. Followed their instructions to a T. Doped up the black pipe side liberally, left the stainless connectors dry.

Had the installation checked by the gas company and they were happy with it, their inspector noted that half the plumbers in town were still doing it wrong.

Times change, RTFM never does.

Oh, and here's one for you. Not even an hour drive apart, my folk's city doesn't want to see drip legs. Their sister city demands drip legs on all gas installations.

 

[nmassman44]

Or how about this one. Living here in Massachusetts the state says all gas appliances have to be hooked up by a plumber that is qualified to do so. So lets say we buy a gas dryer...it has to be connected by a plumber and the leave a tag saying it was installed correctly. If we decide to move said dryer have to call the plumber again to unhook it. Yet gas leaks still occur here and so do house explosions.
Even in installation manuals it will state that if you live in Massachusetts your appliance needs to be installed by a qualified person. Plus there are parts like the flex pipe that state Approved by the state of Massachusetts.

 

[yogitunes]

well the instructions say "to be hooked up by a qualified technician", didn't say that he also has to be the one UN-HOOK it!!!!

Mass. may be different, but I do almost all of my own plumbing, and just call the Gas Company to come and check it out!!!

 

[toggleswitch2]

In my area (Long Island outside of NYC) rules vary town by town. My state is broken down into regions which are broken down into counties which are borken down into towns which are borken down into villages/"cities". (Yes, we have cities within towns; don't ask!)

Some @$$h*le blew up his house to smithereens, and now any new or old gas-work will NOT allow for further expansion via a capped or plugged "T".

So changing my heat from oil to gas was a logistical nighmare betweeen upgrading all the gas valves (generally behind or near the appliances)to the "new" type to pass the high-pressure test, getting rid of a 2nd ("illegal") stove, getting inspections and coordinating a private plumber with the utility company was just not-a-happening.

BTW if you THINK you smell gas (even after a preofessional installation), have it checked. I often do better than plumbers for an air/gas-tight seal. I have a realtive who bought a new-construciton McMansion from a well-known national builder. It is "all-propane." I found two major leaks. Plumbers don't know or don't care. The house smelled "marshy" for over a year which at first I attributed to drying paints and joint compund. The "marshy" [No I don't mean Marcia Brady!) smell BTW is typical of propane. Eventually it became clear(to me) that something was amiss.

 

[toggleswitch2]

To dicourage connecion and disconnections of gas stoves my city rental apartmens come with a stove (And a refrigerator) 99 & 44/100ths % of the time.

It is just such a hassle to get a modern fridge to fit through narrow hallways and stairwasy that one often uses what one has until it dies.

 

[toggleswitch2]

How cold does it get there?

Also a time/temperture auto-dry (as opposed to sensors) may NEVER shut off if the heat has to stay on constantly, as in an unheated garage. Don't know how cold it gets there in winter, at night.

Heat-miser or snow-miser?

 

[travlincub321]

It gets chilly but not cold..
My garage isnt heated, but well insulated..During the hotest summer months it wasnt unberable out there

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Las_Vegas,_Nevada#Climate

 

[sudsmaster]

I had some gas line work done under the house about 11 years ago, by a licensed plumber (added outlets in the laundry closet and by the cooktop).

I had to go back later and replace one of the ball valves he installed at the furnace. It was leaking. I also had to swap out the valves for the gas dryer and the cooktop. He'd put the bigger one where the smaller one was supposed to go.

Maybe it's because I have a college degree in chemistry, where one gets familiar with connecting up gas/water/whatever lines, and also from my work on cars (fuel and brake lines) but work on gas lines has never been much of a challenge for me. Of course, I ALWAYS check for leaks afterward with soapy water spray.

Those "drip lines" I gather are the little stubs below a connection. They are designed to catch any debris that might be in the gas line before they get to the appliance. There's one before the furnace but not for the water heater or the the other new connections.

PS-Iron is preferred over steel for gas lines because when it rusts, it's a fine powder which is less likely to cause problems for burners/controls than the bigger flakes that can form from rusted steel.