Hotpoint Electric Clothes Dryer Model# DLB2650BDLWH

[toggleswitch2]

OOOPSIE! Frayed belt popped with quite a bang.
Found available part at www.applianceclinic.com
Question is, how does one get it around the drum?

Anyone know how how old this machine is?

BTW my apartments does not have 220v service (which only the heater normally gets), so I use it the dryer (including the heater) on 110v.

Since it takes forever-and-a day to heat up and dry a batch of well-spun clothing, the only automatic setting at which it will shut itself off is "LOW" heat and "KNITS". "KNITS" is the minumum duration available on the automatic cycle/programme. Of course the one hour timed cycle is WAY too short a time to dry a batch of clothes.

TIA- Thanks in Advance!

 

[toggleswitch2]

Interior

 

[toggleswitch2]

For you Bob

I ready for my close-up Mr. DeMille.........

 

[toggleswitch2]

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[toggleswitch2]

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[toggleswitch2]

Here's how it's vented.

 

[toggleswitch2]

Plywood, cut-to-size.
Contact paper for weather protection and appearance.
Standard through-the-wall type dryer vent 4" (100+/-mm)

Et le voila!

 

[magic clean]

Steve, its easy;

There are screws under the top edge of the front panel. You'll see them with the door open. Prop the top up, and you'll see screws on each side panel near the top to attach the front panel.

With the front panel off, you can install the new belt aroud the drum. From the rear access panel, you can loop the belt around the pulleys.

Of course, unplug. BTW, Inside the control panel is an instruction sheet for your reference.

 

[toggleswitch2]

Why thank you so kindly! I had envisioned removing the drum! YUK!

 

[retro-man]

Actually it makes sense if you think about it

The knit setting that you have to use for the dryer to shut it self automatically is what the dryer is programmed to do. Since you are only using 120v the heater is not fully energized and will not reach the appropriate tempatures that the other settings desire. Since it will never reach that temperature with that amount of heat it will never advance. It is running correctly I feel. If and when you get 240v or move and have it plugged back into full voltage, I believe all cycles will work as made to be. Sorry to have missed all of you guys last saturday. Just starting to feel better today.
Jon

 

[toggleswitch2]

I was also quite looking forward to meeting you!
Feel better!

Oh yes (when it had a working belt) it runs perfectly on 220v.

Just for kicks I washed and rinsed whites in hot water, and it did shave a great deal of time off of the dry cycle.

 

[retro-man]

Here is a question for you toggles, don't know if this can be done or not but; could you wire the motor seperately with its own cord and plug and another for the timer and heater? This way you would have probably the same voltage and 240 being split to 2 different poles. You would have full heat and motor output. Not sure about the specifics as the timer controlling the motor and how the relays are set up for that. Just a thought. Let me know what you think.
Jon

 

[toggleswitch2]

Jon, I am confused by your question.

The incoming service to my apartment is 110v 30a 60hz, which
serves two (yes, only two)15a circuits. There is a hot (phase) conductor [black] a neutral conductor [white]and a ground/earthing conductor [green or now yellow/green striped].

a U.S. clothes dryer normally has three (or four) conductors

white= neutral
black= hot
red= other hot
green =ground/earth(when the neutral and ground don't share a conductor in the flex-cord)

Either black or red with white = 110v
black and red = 220v

So I can't get 220v from two separate outlets, if that is what you meant.

Clear as mud? LOL

 

[toggleswitch2]

There are 40+/- inches to a meter, and 2.54 cm per inch.

The operation was a success. Eventually.

The belt has two sides; one is flat and has a course texture. The other has four upside-down "V" ridges. (the belt is 87" by 0.5 inches un size).

I had a 50/50 chance and installed it upside-down, such that the drum stopped revolving.

Apparently the four "rubber-ish" ridges go down towards the drum. Installed this way, the motor's rotor and the idler/tension pulley make contact with the flat/coarser side.

Various service information is found, as stated above, in/behind the control console

 

[toggleswitch2]

Lifting the top.

The drum is actually made of three pieces; from, rear and middle

 

[toggleswitch2]

Front removed.

One can see the two "button" drum thermostats and the intake fan opening.

 

[toggleswitch2]

Delinting was minimal considering this machine is proably at least 20+/- years of age.

And for all of you anal-retentives, er..uh detail-oriented people:

Upper lint pile => greasy/waxy from inside the control panel.
Middle pile => singed lint that sat upon the heater encasement (rear of dryer, behind drum).
Left pile=> fluffy, felt-like lint from near the fan/blower.
Right pile => other non-descript lint.

Thanks all for your kind assistance!

 

[toggleswitch2]

It is truly a sin to see how much clothes dryers sell for considered how mechanically simple they are.

Especially nauseating is what the new style console-less ones go for. It's nice to have a window in the dryer, but let's be reasoanble here; it doesn't add another $500 of value to the thing.