STOP USING THE MACHINE UNTIL YOU FIND THE LEAK!!!!
I say this after my recent experience with my grandmother's GE Filter Flo of similar construction. The design of this washer utilizes a rigid outer tub that is affixed to the frame of the washer, but is not attached to the suspension. The inner tub is a part of the suspension system. The outer tubs on these are quite large to accommodate the movement of the inner tub within. The washer is dependent on a large rubber boot to seal the large opening between the stationary outer tub and the suspension-mounted transmission (to which the inner tub is attached).
If your boot is compromised, a small leak may turn into a huge one with no notice. Pull out your washer, remove the rear cover panel (very easy to do), and start filling it on "Warm." Get a flashlight and look inside from the rear and try to determine where the water is coming from. If the water is coming from the center of the machine in the area above the transmission, it's probably a boot issue. Have someone grab the agitator post and rock it violently to simulate an out of balance load while you look for leaks. Also, check the fill valve, the drain and pump hoses, and the recirculation hoses. I learned that if the drain hose comes off the pump, the whole machine will drain. Also, check be sure the hot and cold fill hoses between your wall and the washer are tight and not leaking a drop.
If you do have a boot issue, it's easy to fix. Use a putty knife to push in the clips holding the top to the front of the machine and lift the top (it swings back like the lid). Remove the agitator and the cover beneath the agitator. You may or may not have to loosen or remove a set screw. To remove the inner tub, remove the 3 bolts at the bottom. I forget their size, but they have a 12 point head, not a 6 point, so you'll need to use a 12 point socket instead of a 6 point. Remove the inner tub. The boot is the black rubber thing at the bottom of the outer tub. It is held in place with 2 large hose clamps, one around the opening in the outer tub (the large clamp) and one clamping it to the transmission (the smaller clamp). The clamps can loosen over time, so that might be your issue, or the boot may have a small hole.
Before touching the boot, have someone shine a bright light into the tub while you look beneath. If you see any light, that's your leak. New boots are between $20 and $40. If you have a problem with loose clamps, remove them and remove the boot. Soak the boot for a day in vinegar to loosen the mineral and calcium deposits. Go back to the outer tub with a light and look for rust holes (which can be patched with epoxy). While you're at it, clean out the sediments in the outer tub and maybe POR-15 the whole inside just to be safe (I didn't this time, but next time I will).
To reinstall everything, I used new hose clamps from my local mom & pop hardware store that are a high quality automotive style and are much better than the originals. Make sure the boot is firmly and properly seated before you tighten down the clamps (really really tight). Reassembly is quick, easy, and painless. To remove and install the inner tub, you may need to pull the agitator shaft to one side to line it up with the hole in the inner tub.
Go find that leak!
Dave
PS, the Hotpoints use a filter ring attached to the inner tub. Lint tends to accumulate there so clean it out while the tub is out. This accumulated lint also tends to hold moisture and can rust the top from the underside, so you may want to clean the underside of the top and maybe POR-15 it too. This washer should last a long LONG time.
