Hotpoint ultima WT761 - mainbearing replacement advice, please?

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azimuth

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Jan 15, 2011
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About to attempt main bearing replacement on Hotpoint Ultima WT761(7 kilo 1600).

Any tips/advice &/or a link to (ideally free) repair/service manual would be greatly appreciated.
Manual not essential; but can sometimes be very useful.

Heard it's a bit of a pig & up to 3hours for trained Hotpoint service engineer!?!
Engineer who'll be doing it; but washers not primary area of expertise & experience (toolroom/fabricating).
Will dismantle/fix anything; but any pertinent pointers or tips from anyone who's done this job would be very welcome!

Previous advice - from elsewhere - rather suspect; on basis it started "take back off" ?? Not on that model, unless you intend to rivet it back together..!

Thanks!
 
hotpoint 95622

Well first question is, is this a model with a removable tub front plate or is it a sealed 50/50 split tub, if it’s a 50/50 you can not replace the bearings as it is impossible to part the halves.

Photo of a WM63 with the tub front plate removed.

Also a Link to a web site that may be of use and will make clear how the front of the tub can be removed if it has one.

Lee

WM62 repair page

WM62 repair page
www.christran.net

hotpoint95622++1-16-2011-10-36-17.jpg
 
Thanks Lee!
Good link; I'd looked but not found that one.
I'll go & stick my head in it in the morning & determine its design & fate. Decided to seek info before disassembly!
Plenty familiar with cutting up bearings to remove - have one waiting to be done right now.

If it turns out to be possible, I'll post how it went if of interest to anyone.
Cheers,
Phil
 
Massive job; thus worth pondering the methods and labor.

With my ancient 1976 FL Westy Westinghouse washer it does not have a 50/50 tub, but a "tub front" which is removeable. To pull out the basket to replace the bearings has one removing a snap-ring on the baskets shaft at the rear of the unit, then you pull out the basket out the front. The seal and 6205 front bearing gp into the front; the rear 6205 bearing on mine comes out the rear. It is right by the snap ring.

This is a massive job.

/n

 
Here it do not come out in the first bull session

The proper way is to have the washer vertical. I just do it via pushing down some; so the basket clears the washers frame

 
Same brg layout in link as many old USA FL washers

Lee's nice link shows the same basic bearing config of a USA's Westinghouse FL washer from 1940's to 1990's. ie one bearing is removed from the front; other from the rear.

Since one is tapping the shaft/basket out, one has to be carefull not to make this part grow in size, since it has to pass through the old rear bearing. Thus using a nut buster, ie corroded nut remover, a soft block of wood on the shaft and not going to crazy helps.

The bearings typically fail due to leaky seal, the bearing can be corroded and a stubborn bugger to tap out. Most bearings are 52100 Steel, there are stainless bearings one can use in a rebuild too.

The reason that many repair books have the unit with shaft vertical is one might not ruins a new seal in a rebuild.

The bearing towards the front by the seal "goes" first and can be noisy for years before a total failure; ie cage failure.
 
Hi, It's the later 50/50 split tub on this one. It is more difficult to change the bearings than on the old Hotpoint design (with the motor above the tub and frontplate). Depending on the condition of the bearings you may need an entire rear tub half.

If you need help from qualified people, they are usually very helpful at www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk.

Tom.
 
Thanks everone..!

Hello Lee, & everyone else who's posted,

Yes, the machine is a 50/50.
Replies to specific points raised, further details, a few pics will appear later when I have a spare moment.

Phil (the engineer) was busy sharpening his temper & knuckles on something else, so I (just a female with some DIY skills) did the initial disassembly, which was fairly simple.
The WM62 infomation, while not directly relevant to this machine, was useful, thank you!

I'll be back a bit later...
Sarah
 
In bits - the worst is yet to come..!

Hello everyone,

A couple of exploratory "taps" on the shaft (with the reartub supported so the basket hung freely) started it moving, so the reartub & basket should separate; but looking at the state of it, a halftub might be required. We'll see...if the sleeve is in too much of a state, replacing the bearings would just lead early failure.

@tom; Reply #7 - Familiar with UKwhitegoods site, thanks for pointer anyway.
Advice always useful & welcome.

@3beltwesty - Thanks for all useful info & advice.
"I just do it via pushing down some" - Not a hope in this case, umless pushing with a big hammer (+ padding + drift)
"This is a massive job." - :-) :-(

In bits:

azimuth++1-20-2011-03-15-57.jpg
 
Remains of the rear bearing -

Few balls missing & a lot of corrosion...
You can see the shaft has been sunk by about 1/4"

azimuth++1-20-2011-03-19-57.jpg
 
Front view WT761, to compare to Lee's initial image -

Hotpont WT761 - front view of reartub & basket, removed form machine.

azimuth++1-20-2011-03-23-7.jpg
 
hotpoint 95622

Massive job, me thinks that’s a bit of an underestimate, wow.

So much for new modern design, the very old Hotpoint’s like my Liberator 1851/03 from 1975 are easy, just remove twelve bolts from the back plate, pull from the tub and bobs your uncle, like wise with the later 18 series from late 70’s to early 80’s then to the 95 series from early 80’s to the 90’s with plastic tubs which have the front plate, just remove twelve spring clips, more tricky but still a lot easer than your WT761.

It's all to make you buy a new machine!!

Photo of the 1851/03

hotpoint95622++1-20-2011-13-16-48.jpg
 
hat I meant by holding the "tub down":

Here is what I meant by holding the "tub down":

With my 1976 USA Westinghouse FL the repair manuals have you having the shaft facing up. This means there is less chance to ruin the seal.

On my unit when it is horizontal and its many weights taken off; the unit "rides high" thus one cannot get the basket out unless the tub is pushed down, or the springs backed off. In this photo I just used a board to push and hold the tub down, thus I could now focus on pulling out the basket.

The basket is the white thing with its blue fin inside; the tub is the black outer shell

3beltwesty++1-20-2011-16-56-19.jpg
 
This design is sort of like Lees link were there is a tub fr

With my machine the white "tub front" has a giant gasket, and the red clamp holds the yellow tub front to the black tub. The yellow piece's function is to hold several of the concrete weights

3beltwesty++1-20-2011-17-16-15.jpg
 
Seal on mine was a bear

The hardest thing I ran into was the bearing SEAL was massive son of a gun to get squarely into it's counter bore. On mine the seal was actually a very tight press fit. Even with the bore cleaned and lubed with light grease or oil mine was a stubborn sob to mess with. I placed a threaded rod through the bearing housing and had giant washers so the seal was loaded squarely, and it would flop top one side. I actually ruined the first seal and bought another before the job was done.

3beltwesty++1-20-2011-17-26-19.jpg
 
check the shaft

If you reuse an old shaft on a basket or spider check it with a bearing. Any nick on the shaft can cause it to get hung and thus one is beating on the bearings to to a rebuild, not the greatest thing for a bearing

3beltwesty++1-20-2011-17-47-2.jpg
 

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