How about old furnace is still in use

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I collect old thermostats, and I also have a stockpile of new digital ones. The general consensus is that digital is far more accurate than mechanical, and that is true. But there are some mechanical thermostats that are as accurate as the best digital ones, and there are digital thermostats that just plain suck at the one thing they're supposed to do.

Being the tinkerer that I am, I've tested just about every popular thermostat in existence. For heating; the two most accurate mechanical thermostats are the Honeywell T87 and T874 commercial thermostat. When properly leveled and the heat anticipator dialed in right, they're as good as the best digital thermostats available. Unfortunately they don't do so well with cooling, for that they tend react too slowly to load changes in the structure and therefore will let it get too warm inside as the temp rises and the sun bakes the building.

The big problem with mechanical t-stats is that the bimetal coil tends to lose accuracy as it ages, so a T87 that could keep temps within a degree or two may start letting it swing further and further as it ages. This starts happening when they get to around 15-20 years of age.

The best digital stats I've found are Honeywell, the pro line. Not the stuff you get at the big box. I've found them to have the most intelligent control algorithm of any stat out there, and are calibrated most accurately. The other most popular brand: Emerson/White-Rodgers tend to be about 2 degrees out of calibration from the factory, and some models came 4 degrees out calibration. The funny thing is they allow you to adjust that, whereas Honeywell doesn't. (Because Honeywell comes from the factory set correctly)

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Hans

When they get off wack they can swing up to 10 degrees. Not all of them get that way but it happens. Sometimes a good cleaning is in order. Other times they just need replacing. Luckily there's plenty of NOS on eBay to be had - for now anyway.

Some more of what I've accumulated over the years. The round ones with the small dial were the original Henry Dreyfuss designed ones introduced in 1953. All three of them are T86 (heat only) models. The bigger dial came out around 1960. The T87 (capable of heat/cool with the correct subbase) came out in 1965.

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Digital

One of the first things I did in our house was to replace the old thermostat for the original living area's central forced air furnace (mercury) and the den addition's wall heater in the back of the house (bimetal) with matching digital types.  No AC here so I only needed basic ones. 

 

I went with budget priced Lux TX500E programmables and they've been fine for the past several years.  I programmed both to operate at the same times and temps, and for the first time since the den was built in the late '60s, you can walk from one part of the house to the other and there is absolutely zero temperature difference. 

 

Say what you want about digital, but these t-stats are providing the best and most even heating this house has ever had.
 
My Aunt's 54 Frigidaire water cooled whole house AC/propane heat unit had a similar themo to the one Whirlcool referenced. I never understood how it functioned for both heat and cool. The system itself had to be switched at the unit itself by means of a hefty crank handle that flipped a damper to allow the fan to blow on the left side (cool) right side (heat). But that was the only function selector. Loved that unit!!!
 
I have had digital thermostat experience once. My parents got one in the 1980s to replace a thermostat that had never worked right. (The old one would be turned up and down to manually turn the heat off and on as needed/desired. Not sure if the old was was just way off spec--say, it thought the 80 degree setting was what was really 65, or it had swings too big for comfort.) The digital thermostat worked OK, but two issues:

1. There is more complexity. I hope things have gotten better, but that model's user interface had terrible user friendliness.

2. The thermostat used batteries. Two of them. And batteries eventually fail. One did fail, and the furnace wouldn't work. There was no "Low Battery" light flashing--the display seemed normal. Fortunately, I thought to try changing the battery.
 
Ours said Homart.

My parent's bedroom had a round Honeywell-style thermostat that was also branded Homart IIRC. So was the furnace it had once controlled. (Furnace was inactive in our era.) The people who added that furnace did a lot of work on the house, and it appeared that Sears was their primary source for just about everything and anything they needed.
 
Old Homarts

Were made by General Motors Delco heat, the very old ones had a Delco built thermostat, the old Honeywell pictured is a 3 wire model 10, a very good thermostat.
 
I just threw one of these out recently.
Digistat.
It had a potentiometer to fine tune the temp reading from inaccurate to waayy off!

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I liked those round Honeywell thermostats, especially when they were installed with the round ceiling diffusers. All round. LOL
 
 
I've had several digital 'stats.  Found them all to work nicely enough.

Magic Stat 1000 was the first, almost 30 years ago.  Swapped it in at the apt I had for a several years, put the original back when I left.  Designed to retrofit the Carrier/Honeywell round base.

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Magic stat 1000

Never seen one of those before. Was it programmable or just electronic?

Last night the analog bug bit me and I ended up taking the Honeywell Vision Pro out of the downstairs and put this in. Had to jumper W1 to W2 on the furnace so second stage will now run off a timer since the T87 is single stage only. So far it's keeping temp perfectly. The trick is getting the heat anticipator set correctly, and with a two stage gas valve it is indeed a trick...

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Magic Stat 1000

 
It has a preset program that can be modified by pressing the button.  It resets back to the default when power is lost/disconnected.  Been years since I've used it.  There's a bank of DIP switches, it may have more than one program choice.  Switching between heat/cool requires 1) changing the toggle switch and 2) changing the mode switch on the base to match.

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