How do you run your a/c units?

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retro-man

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Just wondering how other members run their a/c units? For example I have 5 units from 1-12,000btu 3-10,000btu and 1-8,000btu. They all have energy savers options as well as auto cooling which automatically adjusts the fan speed relative to the load, and the constant on fan feature. I tried the energy saver option but I find there is too big a swing in temperature inbetween cycles. Therefore I have been using the constant fan on option. I find the temperature is very accurate within a degree of so. I know this allows some of the moisture on the coils to enter into the room again once the compressor stops but I feel this is minimal. Plus I have 3 dehumidifiers running in the house to maintain about 40 percent humidity. Anyone care to throw their 2 cents in about their usage? I for one am thankfull everyday to be born during the advent of a/c. Thanks
Jon
 
I have a digital thermostat to control my central A/C and I preset it for different temps through out the day depending on whether I'm going to be home or not. I also have a dehumidifier to keep humidity around 40-45%

Average humidity around here is in the 90% range in the mornings and will go as low as 50% during the day if a dry front moves over the area, but is usually 60-70%.
 
We use a Honeywell programable thermostat, but we keep it quite simple. The house is kept at 77 during the summer with ceiling fans blowing and 76 with them off. At night we set it for 75 F.
When we are gone we set it to 78.
We usually have summertime bills of around $165. per month.
 
A/C

We have a non-programable thermostat.

While at work 78 degree, get home set at 76 degrees, go to bed around 10~11pm 75 degrees. We sleep under a sheet with no blanket in the summer. We cook on the outdoor grill a lot during the summer to keep from heating up the house.
 
I forgot to add

We also use ceiling fans in the den and bedroom. We have a medium size Hunter ocilating (moves back and forth) fan we use in the kitchen.
 
At home we have split type air conditioner, 3 units of 9000btu each for the bedrooms, the living area doesn't, sadly, have A/C but when the 3 units are on (99% of the time they are) all the house is quite dry and confortable even if in this way we can't get less than 27/28 °C (81-82°F) the units are set to "autocool/heat" at 27°C (80°C) because my mother doesn't like cold air, I usually re-set them at 25 or 26 (77-79°F) when I'm alone or when having my door closed because I like cooler air. Also they're programmed to raise the temperature gradually at night and restart with the normal cycle at mornings.
Our bill is around 300 euros per month in summer and 130 euros in winter. The units are fairly old (around 10 years) and run at certified EER of 3,11 (around 10 using BTUs istead of kWh), that's poor, also they still use R22, so we're planning to put in a new A/C house-wide soon. The new units have EER in excess of 5 (that's 17 with BTUs)!!!
 
The Friedrich 16K BTU window unit at my grandmother's house (non-digital controls), I keep on high fan speed (faster air circulation minimizes compressor run time), and in "money saver" mode majority of the time. It holds the temp fairly steady. Friedrich uses a low-wattage heated anticipator on their thermostat bulb to enhance temp consistency.

Same with the 18K Friedrich in the projection area at the theater ... I'm not there all the time to monitor the settings, but it's pretty much left that way. Also, the smaller Whirlpool unit in the office, although it only runs on low fan speed in energy-saver mode. Problem with the Whirly is it doesn't have the anticipator design on the thermostat, so isn't as consistent holding the room temperature, particularly when outdoor temps are cooler. In those cases I switch it to continuous fan.
 
Keep our older model Friedrich "Wallmaster" (built in 1990), on about 7 or 8 on the temp dial, and fan speed on high, except when it is really damp outside, then turn the fan down to low. While the later is slighly less energy efficient, it does allow more water to be taken out of the air, so one feels cooler.

Last summer really thought the old AC was dying, even had a repair man come out who pronouced the compressor "dying". Well dragged the unit out of the wall, opened it up and gave the condenser coil a good scrubbing (there was what one thought was a 1" to 2" layer of foam on top of the condenser, turned out to be matted pet hair, leaves, dust and god only knows what else sucked into the unit over the years), and unit has worked like a champ ever since. Should clean it out again, but now that the warm weather has arrived, can't be bothered. Will send the entire AC out to be steam cleaned and stored once the summer cooling season is over.
 
some thoughts

First, pay attention to your own cooling. If you drink enough water (forget the bullshit about tea and coffee not counting, that was disproved years ago. Alcohol does take more water to process than it helps cool, but before you drank enough alcohol to really cause problems, you'd have died of an overdose.)All those isotonic drinks and mineral water are just an expensive waste of your money. Total, complete marketing bullshit. Plain old tap water is just fine - the water company has to watch it carefully or the pipes and fittings would be eaten up! Isotonic my ass. Urine is isotonic, but you drink that stuff and your kidneys will fail.
Eight glasses of water a day may be too much in December, in August it may be too little. If you feel thirsty, you are already in trouble. If you feel "hungry", try a glass of water first - the body is lousy at telling the difference until you are well over a quart low (maybe that's where idiot lights for oil pressure came from!)

With very few, very expensive exceptions, synthetic fabrics are nothing but garbage bags. They don't let your skin perspire as much as you need to. Ditch the polyester and nylon; wear cotton, linen, silk. Some Rayons are cool, some aren't.

Your shoes play a big role here - don't wear the same pair two days in a row, don't wear synthetic socks. If your job lets you, go barefoot or wear sandals. Maybe not with white socks and Bermudas...

Unless the humidity and heat aren't dropping at night (hello Dixie) your house will cool down eventually. Don't do things to reheat it. Or increase the humidity. Use the microwave, not the conventional oven. Pull the drapes before the sun shines in. Exhaust the moisture out of the bathroom after a shower, etc.You can keep a normal bedroom toasty warm at 0°CF with a 2,000 Watt heater. OK, add up the watts on all the appliances in your house running right now...yikes! We'll never agree on phase in this group, but even the most anal of us admit that the watts marked on the label are the heat in the house. 100% efficient. Double Yikes!.
This is where CFLs really do begin to pay off - ten light bulbs at 11 watts or ten at 100 watts...I did the math and changed over.
Evaporative cooling works best when you have low humidity and high, really high temperatures (goodbye Dixie and hello Arizona). There are lots of web-sites with the curves showing at what point they stop helping and start hurting, but if you live in the Co'Cola belt...fuhgitabo'it.
Refrigerant based cooling attacks the problems on two levels. One, it lowers humidity. Two, it lowers the air temperature. This is why you always read "If you need 6,000BTU of cooling and you have to chose between 5,000 and 8,000BTU units, take the 5,000). The longer the unit runs, the more it drys the air. The dryer the air, the warmer it can be without you feeling hot - your own air-conditioning works perfectly in dry air up to the 90°s. In moist air, 75° can feel too hot.
The energy saving of older, analogue systems is a joke unless you have a two stage compressor. If the system is smart enough to adjust for humidity, then it can really make a big difference.
Units which use the outside fan blades to pitch condensed water on the coils are much more efficient. By the same token, don't put the unit in the blaring sun if you can avoid it...just common sense.
I would dearly love this summer to experiment with a phase change system, hope my honey will let me. I think I've got a design which will save electricity and still cool adequately.
We'll see. My parents' house will be cool regardless - the elderly dog can't take the heat and neither can my dad. I had a ferocious fight with my brother about that last summer and reprogrammed the computer with a password to lock him out. Idiot won't talk to the doctors, so thinks 82°F and 65% humidity is just fine, cause that is still what the thermometer calls "comfort zone." I put in what the doctor's called for, with slight variations up and down during the day. And that's the last piece of advice - if your health and doctor permits, moderate physical activity will help you to stay cooler than none at all.
Here in Munich, a fan is really all you need, thank goodness. We don't really get all that hot...except when we do and then it usually is dry heat. I am so not complaining - Biergärten are the best air-conditioning in the world. It's nice we can just take our clothes off and dangle our feet in the river, with a cool beer glass in hand.
 
Keven, how long has it been since you've been in the U.S.? Unfortunately in many cases our tap water is not "just fine". In some parts of my own state, cities have had to get waivers for EPA standards, for everything from aluminum to freaking strontium-90. Half of all wells drilled in California now produce non-potable water. Etc.

Believe me I wish it weren't the case, but blanket claims like "tap water is ok" are simply no longer true, at least in the U.S.
 
In a Victorian

with Steam heat my only option is window units so I have 6 small LG 5000-6500 BTU units. I use them on energy saver with the ceiling fans going all over the house, practically every room has a ceiling fan so this really helps the little AC's do their job. On energy saver it can be 96 out and be 71 inside. For the whole AC season up here it bumps my electric up $200.
2 units first floor, 3 second, 1 third floor.

These LG's are relatively quite, very light to move in and out and they have a feature I've never seen in another AC,when they build up water inside you have the option of opening a drain plug or letting the water stand inside. If you keep it inside the fan splashes it around the cooling fins and this helps to lower the energy usage even further! And you only hear the water splashing around when you are outside too.
 
Jeff,

I am very up to date on the situation in the Southwest...and have read of your water worries in California regularly.

Unfortunately, bottled water and such are just as poorly inspected in the US today as is tap water, if not worse. Frequently, this water is nothing but tap water...with higher microbial contamination...

Sure, there are some regions where the water is especially bad, but generally speaking - you are just as well off drinking from the tap as the expensive bottled stuff. If push comes to shove, a properly maintained reverse-osmosis system will still come out to be cheaper than the bottled stuff over time.
 
We have a 4 year old builders standard set up heat pump (coleman evcon i think).. I set it to 69 during the day and 68 at night.. Keeps the house at a level 70-71.. My electric bills are $80ish a month for a 1200 sq ft condo....

Although i do miss my Trane from years ago.. It would freeze you out set at 68 and it hardly ran and made little noise...
 
Our house has two Sharp window units. They usually don't get turned on until I start to feel uncomfortable in the house. That's generally when the humidity is high (don't have a meter to give you a measurement, when it feels close to me) and the temperature in the house reached the mid 80's. They run at 79 degrees, and on the energy saver setting. After sunset when it cools off, the AC goes off and we open the house up again. It was hot last week here in NE Ohio, temps in the 90's which is unusual for June here. Put the AC units back in and turned them on. Hope to replace them with split units in the near future.
 
I've always found it amusing how the typical consumer doesn't understand the difference between thermostat and fan speed on window units, and thinks that setting the fan speed low as possible cuts back on energy usage.

Someone on a local message board several years ago asked for advice on combating the $400+ summer electric bills she suffers (in an older rental house with not so good insulation and weatherstripping). They have window units. I asked how they set the controls. Answer: Maximum cold, fans at low. She remarked about how it's not very comfortable during the day but gets better at night, even to the point of being a little chilly. I advised her to set the fans at high so the units can keep up better with the load, and then cut back on the thermostat to a comfortable level. She was dubious, but tried it, and was amazed that the house was cooler during the day. Sad thing is, I know her type well-enough to know that she went back to the old habits before long.

Another example. My dad and I somehow got into a conversation years ago about air conditioning settings with a friend of my grandmother. Evelyn ran her window unit thermostat at "8" against the maximum of 10, but the fan on low because "it gets too cold, especially at night." Well, duhhh. We told her to set the fan at high and cut the thermostat back to 5 or 5.5 or 6, the temperature will be more consistent from day to night, not so cold at night, and cost less to run. She didn't believe us.

It's also funny, people who go to seasonal extremes such as 65°F in summer and 80°F in winter. One has to wonder if something is wrong with either their HVAC systems, or their perception of temperature.
 
I have a March, 2002 Trane with SEER 18, variable speed air handler and dual speed cmopressor. Keep it at 78 when I"m home and as high as it will go during the day, but programmed to return to normal temp by about 7:00 in the evening.
 
Some ideas

have been lost to time it seems. My house is over 200 years old and is built for comfort it feels like at times.

My house is situated to make the most of light and air flow. I do not have to turn on any eletric lights until nightfall and making use of shutters, blinds, etc. the place stays comfortable downstairs. Center hall, tall ceilings.

My partner insisted on having a window unit in his bedroom. He keeps it freezing in the summer. In my room I keep the blinds closed during the day and open them up at night. I use a box fan in one of the windows and the room stays pretty cool. In the summer the temperature goes down into the low 80's at night.

July and August are the killer months for heat and humidity here in the south. I stick with the older methods and it works fine for me. My power bill last month was $26.00. I expect it will double at least for the next two months with that window unit going.

The upstairs of the house is another matter. It is warm and comfortable in the winter months but there is no way to keep it cool in summer without at least a window unit. No wonder it was where the children and servants lived in the 19th century.

I will continue to employ older methods for keeping the house cool as long as the utility bills stay low and the place is comfortable. Central is definately out of the question.
 

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