How do you run your a/c units?

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retro-man

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Just wondering how other members run their a/c units? For example I have 5 units from 1-12,000btu 3-10,000btu and 1-8,000btu. They all have energy savers options as well as auto cooling which automatically adjusts the fan speed relative to the load, and the constant on fan feature. I tried the energy saver option but I find there is too big a swing in temperature inbetween cycles. Therefore I have been using the constant fan on option. I find the temperature is very accurate within a degree of so. I know this allows some of the moisture on the coils to enter into the room again once the compressor stops but I feel this is minimal. Plus I have 3 dehumidifiers running in the house to maintain about 40 percent humidity. Anyone care to throw their 2 cents in about their usage? I for one am thankfull everyday to be born during the advent of a/c. Thanks
Jon
 
I have a digital thermostat to control my central A/C and I preset it for different temps through out the day depending on whether I'm going to be home or not. I also have a dehumidifier to keep humidity around 40-45%

Average humidity around here is in the 90% range in the mornings and will go as low as 50% during the day if a dry front moves over the area, but is usually 60-70%.
 
We use a Honeywell programable thermostat, but we keep it quite simple. The house is kept at 77 during the summer with ceiling fans blowing and 76 with them off. At night we set it for 75 F.
When we are gone we set it to 78.
We usually have summertime bills of around $165. per month.
 
A/C

We have a non-programable thermostat.

While at work 78 degree, get home set at 76 degrees, go to bed around 10~11pm 75 degrees. We sleep under a sheet with no blanket in the summer. We cook on the outdoor grill a lot during the summer to keep from heating up the house.
 
I forgot to add

We also use ceiling fans in the den and bedroom. We have a medium size Hunter ocilating (moves back and forth) fan we use in the kitchen.
 
At home we have split type air conditioner, 3 units of 9000btu each for the bedrooms, the living area doesn't, sadly, have A/C but when the 3 units are on (99% of the time they are) all the house is quite dry and confortable even if in this way we can't get less than 27/28 °C (81-82°F) the units are set to "autocool/heat" at 27°C (80°C) because my mother doesn't like cold air, I usually re-set them at 25 or 26 (77-79°F) when I'm alone or when having my door closed because I like cooler air. Also they're programmed to raise the temperature gradually at night and restart with the normal cycle at mornings.
Our bill is around 300 euros per month in summer and 130 euros in winter. The units are fairly old (around 10 years) and run at certified EER of 3,11 (around 10 using BTUs istead of kWh), that's poor, also they still use R22, so we're planning to put in a new A/C house-wide soon. The new units have EER in excess of 5 (that's 17 with BTUs)!!!
 
The Friedrich 16K BTU window unit at my grandmother's house (non-digital controls), I keep on high fan speed (faster air circulation minimizes compressor run time), and in "money saver" mode majority of the time. It holds the temp fairly steady. Friedrich uses a low-wattage heated anticipator on their thermostat bulb to enhance temp consistency.

Same with the 18K Friedrich in the projection area at the theater ... I'm not there all the time to monitor the settings, but it's pretty much left that way. Also, the smaller Whirlpool unit in the office, although it only runs on low fan speed in energy-saver mode. Problem with the Whirly is it doesn't have the anticipator design on the thermostat, so isn't as consistent holding the room temperature, particularly when outdoor temps are cooler. In those cases I switch it to continuous fan.
 
Keep our older model Friedrich "Wallmaster" (built in 1990), on about 7 or 8 on the temp dial, and fan speed on high, except when it is really damp outside, then turn the fan down to low. While the later is slighly less energy efficient, it does allow more water to be taken out of the air, so one feels cooler.

Last summer really thought the old AC was dying, even had a repair man come out who pronouced the compressor "dying". Well dragged the unit out of the wall, opened it up and gave the condenser coil a good scrubbing (there was what one thought was a 1" to 2" layer of foam on top of the condenser, turned out to be matted pet hair, leaves, dust and god only knows what else sucked into the unit over the years), and unit has worked like a champ ever since. Should clean it out again, but now that the warm weather has arrived, can't be bothered. Will send the entire AC out to be steam cleaned and stored once the summer cooling season is over.
 
some thoughts

First, pay attention to your own cooling. If you drink enough water (forget the bullshit about tea and coffee not counting, that was disproved years ago. Alcohol does take more water to process than it helps cool, but before you drank enough alcohol to really cause problems, you'd have died of an overdose.)All those isotonic drinks and mineral water are just an expensive waste of your money. Total, complete marketing bullshit. Plain old tap water is just fine - the water company has to watch it carefully or the pipes and fittings would be eaten up! Isotonic my ass. Urine is isotonic, but you drink that stuff and your kidneys will fail.
Eight glasses of water a day may be too much in December, in August it may be too little. If you feel thirsty, you are already in trouble. If you feel "hungry", try a glass of water first - the body is lousy at telling the difference until you are well over a quart low (maybe that's where idiot lights for oil pressure came from!)

With very few, very expensive exceptions, synthetic fabrics are nothing but garbage bags. They don't let your skin perspire as much as you need to. Ditch the polyester and nylon; wear cotton, linen, silk. Some Rayons are cool, some aren't.

Your shoes play a big role here - don't wear the same pair two days in a row, don't wear synthetic socks. If your job lets you, go barefoot or wear sandals. Maybe not with white socks and Bermudas...

Unless the humidity and heat aren't dropping at night (hello Dixie) your house will cool down eventually. Don't do things to reheat it. Or increase the humidity. Use the microwave, not the conventional oven. Pull the drapes before the sun shines in. Exhaust the moisture out of the bathroom after a shower, etc.You can keep a normal bedroom toasty warm at 0°CF with a 2,000 Watt heater. OK, add up the watts on all the appliances in your house running right now...yikes! We'll never agree on phase in this group, but even the most anal of us admit that the watts marked on the label are the heat in the house. 100% efficient. Double Yikes!.
This is where CFLs really do begin to pay off - ten light bulbs at 11 watts or ten at 100 watts...I did the math and changed over.
Evaporative cooling works best when you have low humidity and high, really high temperatures (goodbye Dixie and hello Arizona). There are lots of web-sites with the curves showing at what point they stop helping and start hurting, but if you live in the Co'Cola belt...fuhgitabo'it.
Refrigerant based cooling attacks the problems on two levels. One, it lowers humidity. Two, it lowers the air temperature. This is why you always read "If you need 6,000BTU of cooling and you have to chose between 5,000 and 8,000BTU units, take the 5,000). The longer the unit runs, the more it drys the air. The dryer the air, the warmer it can be without you feeling hot - your own air-conditioning works perfectly in dry air up to the 90°s. In moist air, 75° can feel too hot.
The energy saving of older, analogue systems is a joke unless you have a two stage compressor. If the system is smart enough to adjust for humidity, then it can really make a big difference.
Units which use the outside fan blades to pitch condensed water on the coils are much more efficient. By the same token, don't put the unit in the blaring sun if you can avoid it...just common sense.
I would dearly love this summer to experiment with a phase change system, hope my honey will let me. I think I've got a design which will save electricity and still cool adequately.
We'll see. My parents' house will be cool regardless - the elderly dog can't take the heat and neither can my dad. I had a ferocious fight with my brother about that last summer and reprogrammed the computer with a password to lock him out. Idiot won't talk to the doctors, so thinks 82°F and 65% humidity is just fine, cause that is still what the thermometer calls "comfort zone." I put in what the doctor's called for, with slight variations up and down during the day. And that's the last piece of advice - if your health and doctor permits, moderate physical activity will help you to stay cooler than none at all.
Here in Munich, a fan is really all you need, thank goodness. We don't really get all that hot...except when we do and then it usually is dry heat. I am so not complaining - Biergärten are the best air-conditioning in the world. It's nice we can just take our clothes off and dangle our feet in the river, with a cool beer glass in hand.
 
Keven, how long has it been since you've been in the U.S.? Unfortunately in many cases our tap water is not "just fine". In some parts of my own state, cities have had to get waivers for EPA standards, for everything from aluminum to freaking strontium-90. Half of all wells drilled in California now produce non-potable water. Etc.

Believe me I wish it weren't the case, but blanket claims like "tap water is ok" are simply no longer true, at least in the U.S.
 
In a Victorian

with Steam heat my only option is window units so I have 6 small LG 5000-6500 BTU units. I use them on energy saver with the ceiling fans going all over the house, practically every room has a ceiling fan so this really helps the little AC's do their job. On energy saver it can be 96 out and be 71 inside. For the whole AC season up here it bumps my electric up $200.
2 units first floor, 3 second, 1 third floor.

These LG's are relatively quite, very light to move in and out and they have a feature I've never seen in another AC,when they build up water inside you have the option of opening a drain plug or letting the water stand inside. If you keep it inside the fan splashes it around the cooling fins and this helps to lower the energy usage even further! And you only hear the water splashing around when you are outside too.
 
Jeff,

I am very up to date on the situation in the Southwest...and have read of your water worries in California regularly.

Unfortunately, bottled water and such are just as poorly inspected in the US today as is tap water, if not worse. Frequently, this water is nothing but tap water...with higher microbial contamination...

Sure, there are some regions where the water is especially bad, but generally speaking - you are just as well off drinking from the tap as the expensive bottled stuff. If push comes to shove, a properly maintained reverse-osmosis system will still come out to be cheaper than the bottled stuff over time.
 
We have a 4 year old builders standard set up heat pump (coleman evcon i think).. I set it to 69 during the day and 68 at night.. Keeps the house at a level 70-71.. My electric bills are $80ish a month for a 1200 sq ft condo....

Although i do miss my Trane from years ago.. It would freeze you out set at 68 and it hardly ran and made little noise...
 
Our house has two Sharp window units. They usually don't get turned on until I start to feel uncomfortable in the house. That's generally when the humidity is high (don't have a meter to give you a measurement, when it feels close to me) and the temperature in the house reached the mid 80's. They run at 79 degrees, and on the energy saver setting. After sunset when it cools off, the AC goes off and we open the house up again. It was hot last week here in NE Ohio, temps in the 90's which is unusual for June here. Put the AC units back in and turned them on. Hope to replace them with split units in the near future.
 
I've always found it amusing how the typical consumer doesn't understand the difference between thermostat and fan speed on window units, and thinks that setting the fan speed low as possible cuts back on energy usage.

Someone on a local message board several years ago asked for advice on combating the $400+ summer electric bills she suffers (in an older rental house with not so good insulation and weatherstripping). They have window units. I asked how they set the controls. Answer: Maximum cold, fans at low. She remarked about how it's not very comfortable during the day but gets better at night, even to the point of being a little chilly. I advised her to set the fans at high so the units can keep up better with the load, and then cut back on the thermostat to a comfortable level. She was dubious, but tried it, and was amazed that the house was cooler during the day. Sad thing is, I know her type well-enough to know that she went back to the old habits before long.

Another example. My dad and I somehow got into a conversation years ago about air conditioning settings with a friend of my grandmother. Evelyn ran her window unit thermostat at "8" against the maximum of 10, but the fan on low because "it gets too cold, especially at night." Well, duhhh. We told her to set the fan at high and cut the thermostat back to 5 or 5.5 or 6, the temperature will be more consistent from day to night, not so cold at night, and cost less to run. She didn't believe us.

It's also funny, people who go to seasonal extremes such as 65°F in summer and 80°F in winter. One has to wonder if something is wrong with either their HVAC systems, or their perception of temperature.
 
I have a March, 2002 Trane with SEER 18, variable speed air handler and dual speed cmopressor. Keep it at 78 when I"m home and as high as it will go during the day, but programmed to return to normal temp by about 7:00 in the evening.
 
Some ideas

have been lost to time it seems. My house is over 200 years old and is built for comfort it feels like at times.

My house is situated to make the most of light and air flow. I do not have to turn on any eletric lights until nightfall and making use of shutters, blinds, etc. the place stays comfortable downstairs. Center hall, tall ceilings.

My partner insisted on having a window unit in his bedroom. He keeps it freezing in the summer. In my room I keep the blinds closed during the day and open them up at night. I use a box fan in one of the windows and the room stays pretty cool. In the summer the temperature goes down into the low 80's at night.

July and August are the killer months for heat and humidity here in the south. I stick with the older methods and it works fine for me. My power bill last month was $26.00. I expect it will double at least for the next two months with that window unit going.

The upstairs of the house is another matter. It is warm and comfortable in the winter months but there is no way to keep it cool in summer without at least a window unit. No wonder it was where the children and servants lived in the 19th century.

I will continue to employ older methods for keeping the house cool as long as the utility bills stay low and the place is comfortable. Central is definately out of the question.
 
I've got central A/C. House is mid-century, one level, 900+ square feet. Thermostat is set to 82-83 during the daytime and 80 at night. I also keep fans blowing on me.

Power bill starts increasing around May to $90 a month, peaking at around $130 by August, and tapering off afterwards. The rest of the year the electric bill runs between $40-$50 per month, usually, thanks to leaving the windows open.

As hot and humid as it is down here, even indoor temps in the 80's feel very cool.
 
Heat and humidity are not the same thing, and one factors into the other when it comes to comfort.

Many persons can bear dry heat, such as found in desert climates quite well, but simply cannot cope with the high heat and high moisture levels say found in the Southern United States and up the Atlantic coast.

Right now it is a comfortable 75F outside, but the humidity reading is near 95%. A quick walk down the street will show most every home has their AC running, and most are dripping water or one can hear the same sloshing about as the fan slings it against the compressor (some models).

While not an expert, everything one has every learned or heard about air conditoning says yes, run it on high (fan speed) with the thermostat set at a comfortable range when the weather is hot to extremely hot outside. However when the weather is hot and humid, extremely hot and humid or even just warm and humid, to set the fan speed to low; the lesser air flow across the evaporator coils means more moisture will be extracted versus running the unit on high fan speed. While there is a loss of energy efficency, the trade off is feels cooler and more comfortable due to less water in the air.

L
 
My house has no central heating or A/C however there are refrigerated window units in each room.
The living room has a Carrier 12,000 BTU 240 volt unit; in the kitchen is a 5000 BTU GE; in the workshop/office is a 5000 BTU Hampton Bay, and in the bedroom is an 8000 BTU GE and 5000 BTU Hampton Bay.

Each window unit is set up with a relay kit with low voltage transformer and real thermostat like you'd use for central AC...this way each area gets the precise cooling it needs.
There are timers which shut off the low voltage supply to the relays during the day to save energy. You can see some of the setups on my youtube videos.
On the units themselves the fans are all set at high and cooling on max. The external thermostats/relays do the logic.
There are also fans in each room which run constantly to provide air movement.

After living all of my childhood and teenage years with inadequate heat and no AC I refuse to be uncomfortable even if I have to pay a little more for it! The summertime electric bills for my entire property including house and barn are around $350.00.
 
It's NOT the heat; it's the humidity.

Hi Jon *WAVES*

I've got a small Cape Cod style house with steam heat and radiators that I was able to add central A/C to via adding ducts with ceiling vents and returns. All three levels of the hosue are cooled, including the finsihed basement. I also have a low return in the basmeent to keep temps consistent from top to bottom of the three levels, and to dehumdify to prevent that musty basement smell.

The temps are set at 77*F int he summer while occupied and 80*F when not, via a programmable LUX brand electronic whole-house thermostat. Methinks the thermostst generates a great deal of internal heat, so my 77*F summer setting results in 75*F room temps.

I has the unit purposely sized a bit small to run longer which reults in better dehumdification. A large through-the wall unit is used for quick cool-downs, when the oven is on and with a house full of people; all times when extra capacity is needed. ALso, I prefer to run the wall unit (no electronics) during storms and power issues. [If something has to blow-out, let it be the supplemetal unit rather than the central unit].

I tend to be at home more in the evenings so my thought process was to have a unit that ran enough at night to dehumidify.

As others have mentioned about their homes, in my house my system come on in April/May and runs till September/October. Opening the windows to allow the in-rush of humidity makes little sense to me. My location is a noisy corner instersection with a nearby commercaal main route. The noise, the dust and locking windows for security every time I want to step out is not for me.

Glenn: It never ceases to amaze me that the masses don't want to understand the laws of physics (and applied science) and how they apply to "real" life. Ever see someone with a climate-control system in the vehicle (the "Temp" dial is a thermostat)? Invariably the dial goes to the min and max settings and allowing the systm to do what it was designed to do (take care of it all automaticaly) doesn't happen.

It took me decades to convince my mother that a thermostat is a temperture activated on-off switch. It does not regulate heat infinitely as the knob of a gas stove regualtes heat and flame-size on a top-burner. In a word, settng the thermostat higher or lower doesn't (usually) get you there any faster.
 
~Each window unit is set up with a relay kit with low voltage transformer and real thermostat like you'd use for central AC...this way each area gets the precise cooling it needs.

This is a great system. Did it in my apartment. Here, where night are cool, it ensures the unit will start and adequately cool the room.

My A/C was a 10,000 BTU/h unit that had a low enough wattage draw that I was able to use a Honeywell hydronic ("hot-water") heating system circulator control relay.

Transformer and relay built right it. Add power in, add a receptacle for power out, and run a low-votage A/C thermostat to a good location and VOILA! Good temp contol.


http://www.pexsupply.com/categories.asp?cID=444&brandid=
 
Hey Toggles!! I have been thinking for years about doing this in my house, with the relays and seperate thermostat. I guess I just never got around to it. You know how that is. I am sure that this is a great way to keep a balanced temperature when the outside air cools at night. I agree I don't need all the yellow pollen that's out there right now in my house. We have gotten showers here the past three days and you can't believe what the sides of the street look like. We are in the peak of it right now, should be gone in 2 weeks or less. I have seen some a/c units where the fan comes on occasionally on very low speed to keep the temp more even. Did not know about the small heater in the bulbs to keep it even also. Very interesting from all contributions on this thread. It seems location location location is the key principal here. Southeast up along the whole east coast very humid and warm and dry and warm in the west and midwest, except along the mississippi right now. My thoughts and prayers go out to all those people there. Well enough rambling, just got home from a funeral from my last uncle on both sides of my family. One aunt left in ca not doing well. When the hell did we get our parents age? lol
Jon
 
I have a 3 1/2 ton packaged unit (10 SEER) out back with a souped up blower motor. Original high speed was 1075 rpm but now it is 1625 rpm. Pretty close to maxing out on the motor amperage but hasn't quit yet. Built a box so it could accomodate a 24x24x12 Hepa filter. The lid is on top so I can prop it open and pull fresh air from outside when I feel like it or when it is cool outside. Keep the house at 70 and in the bedroom have a 5,600 btu Kenmore that I keep at 62 and right now on energy saver. I pulled the sensor bulb away from the coil and have it hanging outside the face of the unit so the bulb doens't get a false temp from being so close to the coil when the fan is not running. I'm on average billing but last summer I used almost $400 a month on electricity. The sad thing is that a few years ago, I blew enough insulation in the attic to add an R30 on top of the 2" of insulation that was up there. Before that, I could run the central a/c, a 5000 btu unit in the kitchen and the one in the bedroom 24/7 and it could not keep the house at 70 during the hottest days.
Now with the insulation, the central a/c only runs around 13 hours a day. Sad thing is that I have seen no savings in $$$ because the electric rates have gone up soo much, but it does stay cool now.
Got a question - on packaged units, can't seem to find them with a higer SEER than around 16 however you can get higher on split systems. Is this becuase since it is one whole unit, the blower motor, compressor, and condenser motors are all added to calucate the SEER? On a split system, do they only factor in the condensor and compressor motor in the SEER or do they factor the matching furnace motor in on it as well?
Here is an interesting article on SEER and EER. Looks like not all SEER ratings are the same on units when compareing to the EER. I think it would be most important to buy a unit with a higher EER not necessarily a higher SEER. What do you think?

http://www.energy.ca.gov/title24/2005standards/archive/documents/measures/01/1_2002-03_SCE-ANDER.PDF
 
~The lid is on top so I can prop it open and pull fresh air from outside when I feel like it or when it is cool outside.

1- This makes more sense knowing you have a packaged unit (i.e. entirely outdoors with ducts going into the house).

~on packaged units, can't seem to find them with a higher SEER than around 16.

2a- Split-sytem fan motor probably NOT factored it, therby raising their rating.

2b- Many split systems can have (physically) larger coils/units than a packaged unit. This is usually a way to gain efficiency.

2c- Heat pumps have their defros cycle factored in, which kills efficieny ratings. [ie.e its not fair/reasoanble to compare A/C *ONLY* systems; ratings to heat pumps). Electric resistance coils are energized during the defrosty mode/cycle which is essentially *cooling* mode (transfer heat from in the hosue to out, while stopping the "condenser" (outdoor unit when cooling) fan motor.
 
the central a/c runs 13 hours a day

mine runs maybe 4 or 5 at most... its a 2005 carrier system.... 1700 sq ft house .. bills at $85 monthly

my last house had an 86 11 qt trash can sized carrier and it ran 18 hours a day, had $150+ bills monthly.. 1000 sq ft

same area and minimal rate hikes
 
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