How To Convert Propane Dryer to Natural Gas
- Thread starter DigAPony
- Start date
Help Support :
Okay, I think I've got this settled.
I was able to get the correct NG #42 orifice locally. Whirlpool dryer part # 234826 but identical to the GE orifice, (#15418 may work as well).
Now, for the leak limiter cap I'm going to remove the blocking stem and reinstall, please comment if this sounds incorrect.
Also, I found a NOS GE LP conversion kit on Ebay in case someone wants to convert the dryer back to LP- GE part. #WE25X113
I was able to get the correct NG #42 orifice locally. Whirlpool dryer part # 234826 but identical to the GE orifice, (#15418 may work as well).
Now, for the leak limiter cap I'm going to remove the blocking stem and reinstall, please comment if this sounds incorrect.
Also, I found a NOS GE LP conversion kit on Ebay in case someone wants to convert the dryer back to LP- GE part. #WE25X113
Loading…
www.pcappliancerepair.com
The GE conversion kit arrived today.
It is a older conversion kit that even includes parts for a standing pilot and the instructions cover N.G. to L.P. or L.P. to N.G. and even mixed gas. As for the Regulator Blocker instructions are to remove for N.G., install for L.P. - simple enough. (Apparently with the pin intact its called a blocker, without the pin it becomes a Leak Limiter)?
Anyway, it also suggests the air shutter should be adjusted for minimum yellow flame; open for L.P. , close for N.G. The shutter appears fully open currently.
Anyone ever find it necessary to do this adjustment? Is it done while operating?
Sorry for all the questions, just want to do this right as its for a friend.
It is a older conversion kit that even includes parts for a standing pilot and the instructions cover N.G. to L.P. or L.P. to N.G. and even mixed gas. As for the Regulator Blocker instructions are to remove for N.G., install for L.P. - simple enough. (Apparently with the pin intact its called a blocker, without the pin it becomes a Leak Limiter)?
Anyway, it also suggests the air shutter should be adjusted for minimum yellow flame; open for L.P. , close for N.G. The shutter appears fully open currently.
Anyone ever find it necessary to do this adjustment? Is it done while operating?
Sorry for all the questions, just want to do this right as its for a friend.
never had to adjust the air mix.....as long as its a blue flame, with some yellow tips, your good to go......give it a few cycles on/off before you decide it needs adjustment.....and you can adjust while in operation, probably best this way you can adjust small increments at a time....
I have seen a 50/50 yellow/blue at the start, and then taper to the 90% blue....even if an adjustment is needed, keep an eye on it for a while.....once set, your good to go....
happy drying!
I have seen a 50/50 yellow/blue at the start, and then taper to the 90% blue....even if an adjustment is needed, keep an eye on it for a while.....once set, your good to go....
happy drying!
Pressure Regulator Caps on Gas Dryers
The cap for Natural Gas is called a leak limiter because it has a very small hole drilled through it, this is necessary so the diafram in the pressure regulator can flex and work [ the back side must be at atmospheric pressure ]. The very small hole in the cap will allow a very small amount of gas to leak if the regular diafram leaks, but this would be too little gas to ever cause a fire or explosion. Generally the main burner air-shutter needs to be open completely for either nat or LP gas. There is a BIG difference between orange flame and yellowish flame, orange is caused by dust and dirt being burned, yellow flame on the tips is usually caused by too little primary air [ air shutter adjustment ]. If you know what you are looking at there is no need to wait for several burner cycles, the air shutter adjustment can be made immediately.
The cap for Natural Gas is called a leak limiter because it has a very small hole drilled through it, this is necessary so the diafram in the pressure regulator can flex and work [ the back side must be at atmospheric pressure ]. The very small hole in the cap will allow a very small amount of gas to leak if the regular diafram leaks, but this would be too little gas to ever cause a fire or explosion. Generally the main burner air-shutter needs to be open completely for either nat or LP gas. There is a BIG difference between orange flame and yellowish flame, orange is caused by dust and dirt being burned, yellow flame on the tips is usually caused by too little primary air [ air shutter adjustment ]. If you know what you are looking at there is no need to wait for several burner cycles, the air shutter adjustment can be made immediately.
Well, that shoots down my idea of removing the blocker pin and reusing the cap alone. Fortunately, I found a Vent Cap for an old Frigidaire Dryer on Ebay that looks like it may be exactly what I need.
Virtually identical to GE #WE1X606 but aluminum and much less expensive:
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Leak-limiter/WE1X606/274830
Thanks again for the info.
Virtually identical to GE #WE1X606 but aluminum and much less expensive:
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Leak-limiter/WE1X606/274830
Thanks again for the info.
Loading…
www.ebay.com
well if you broke off the little stem to reuse the cap....couldn't you just drill a tiny hole into it?.....either from the side as the one shown, or from the top, to allow it to vent...
Yes, I was thinking about that, however the vent cap (leak limiter) has only a tiny pin hole (see link):
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Leak-limiter/WE1X606/274830
I'd rather not take chances since the dryer is for friends who are moving into their first home and are babes in the woods with things mechanical.
http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Leak-limiter/WE1X606/274830
I'd rather not take chances since the dryer is for friends who are moving into their first home and are babes in the woods with things mechanical.
