How to hook up multiple washers in one room

[norgechef]

I am soon to be moving into a house with an unfinished basement and I would like to get all my washers out of storage that I have collected over the years and something I have always wanted to do was have all my washers hooked up so that I could use whatever one I wanted instead of having 1 daily driver.

I know several of you have setups like this and I really want to know how you hook them up to water and drain pipes without spending thousands in plumbing?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

[cfz2882]

I just ran long pipes along the wall with hookups for each washer(4 machines hooked up at a time-3 that stay in place,4th position for "rotation"machine)drain is handled the same way with PVC pipe.The 4 outlets are on one 15A circuit,but 2 of the "stay"machines have electronic driven motors and pull far less current than the "old skool"washers with motors run straight off the line and I have had no problems running multiple machines at the same time.

 

[yogitunes]

maybe this will give you an idea, or at least a start......I ran platic water lines along the wall, hot on top, and cold on the bottom, and you can add a station anytime/anywhere you want or need...simple cut and glue......a good idea to put shut offs at the beginning of your run, to turn off the whole room when not in use...

same for the drain lines......1-1/2 inch drain ports, and recommended the main bottom line be 2 or 3 inch...I had to change since this pic.....or even use a laundry tub or two spaced as needed...

electrical is similar....12/2 romex....your setup may be different, I run the whole room on 2 - 20amp circuits...again, I can turn off all machines at the flip of a button...

 

[yogitunes]

a close up of the drop "L"'s for the faucets....I have done some changes and additions since these pics, but plan out your route, I find it best to keep electrical above waterlines, and drain as low as possible....

plastic pipe and fittings are fast to install, and inexpensive....

 

[washdaddy]

Martin-

I've seen your other pics of the Neptune's lined up, and now your side by side SQ's.

According to your prof. you have a rather large collection. How much of it is actually connected? Do you have any other pics of your set-up? Would be interesting to see.

 

[yogitunes]

this link was the start of the house in the city......so far its 11 washers and 6 dryers, everything but one dryer is hooked up...plus add in a few portables and a wringer.....and space for a few more before I start the "one in, one out" rule...

still deciding what to do at the country house for the vintage lineup....theres already the lineup of 6 more Neptunes along one wall(and another set upstairs)......and 4 stations for vintage machines along the other...still in progress!

My Laundry areas

for years I have wanted to set these rooms up.....and finally set my mind to getting it done...with much influence of AW....heres a few pics of my house in the city...... first the back basement room.....another set of my Fleet of Neptunes....mainly the daily drivers...... Brian....keep an eye...

www.automaticwasher.org

 

[MrX]

Just make sure you're not running to many of them at the same time as you'd need a lot more than a single 15amp circuit.

Remember electric motors can draw quite a lot of power when they're starting up or switching direction. All it takes is say 3 machines to hit that in harmony and you'll trip out the circuit (or blow the fuses in old wiring).

You may also need to consider a larger water supply as the pressure will drop if multiple machines are filling simultaneously.

It would depend on how high your water pressure is to start with though. Different locations and different eras of plumbing would have different specs.[this post was last edited: 11/18/2013-07:38]

 

[washdaddy]

I think I would become a shut-in in that room. Playing in it all day and sneaking out at night maybe to scoop up a new toy to add to the collective. Perhaps grab a little nibble to keep myself going. LMAO

Great looking set-up.

 

[mtn1584]

Residential Speed Queen Lids

Yogi,
I love vintage SQ washers, but never understood why they made their residential line with those side opening lids. why didn't they just continue with the coin-op lids on the residential units, anyone know?
Mike

 

[yogitunes]

side open lids, I think it was just a signature trait, like on a Kenmore, it could have been of the knobs in the way as well, some earlier models had a dispen-so-mat at the fill flume, and a rear opening lid would have been in the way....

I like the side opening because it gives full view of the control panel when open, and some models also had a full light that would also shine down inside the machine...the lid allowed some ease when unloading clothes to hold the basket....

only issue is like this lineup and their in the way for the next machine...

 

[rustyspaatz]

If you have pairs, you might want to space everything 5' apart to allow for the matching dryer.

If all your washers are in a row,I would use:

DRAIN- a 2" horizontal pipe with "T"s that allow a 1 1/2" vertical stand pipe at each washer. You can save on materials and work, and put in only one main trap at the beginning of the circuit.

ELECTRIC- 2 -20 amp circuits with a GFI outlet at the beginning of the string. Remember one outlet covers 2 washers.
Remember the GFI outlets or circuit breakers. You don't want to be working on these machines and get zapped.

WATER SUPPLY- Use CPVC 3/4" ridged pipe for the feeds with a "T" that has a threaded 1/2" female opening to allow for the install of a threaded faucet.

 

[combo52]

Electrical Supply for Laundry Rooms

Hi Eric, GFIs are not needed for appliances that have three wire grounded cords and on classic appliances they can cause nuisance trips, and for this reason GFIs should NEVER be used for refrigerators and freezers that have grounded three wire cords.

 

[mattl]

Only one GFI is needed, it can protect everything down line from it.

 

[rustyspaatz]

-combo-

 

"GFIs are not needed for appliances that have three wire grounded cords and on classic appliances they can cause nuisance trips, and for this reason GFIs should NEVER be used for refrigerators and freezers "

 

True  -BUT.... 

 

GFI's provide extra protection from shock. 

 

In general, GFIs should be on<span style="text-decoration: underline;"> ALL </span>circuits in our homes.  It's like a gold standard of safety at very little cost.

The truth is, on Non GFI circuits, even with a ground, you can easily be shocked to DEATH from a grounded appliance WITHOUT the circuit breaker blowing.

 

Think about it.  If you touched a hot wire on an appliance, the power is going right through you to the ground.  The circuit breaker only cares if the draw becomes so much that it reaches amps stated on the breaker, AND THERE IS A DELAY. 

You will be long since dead at that point.

With a GFI the circuit would be cut almost instantly. Saving your life.

 

Yes, some appliances, such as garage door openers, large refrigerators, and washers, may cause "nuisance trips" (not really a good name for a device that will save your life).  

These appliances will typically work just fine on a 15 amp circuit WITHOUT a GFI. 

 

Upgrading the circuit (breaker, wire, and outlet) to 20 AMP with 20 AMP GFI should resolve this issue.  The reason it trips is because of the split second surge to start the appliance.

 

Consider that a compressor based appliance can draw up to 6 times its operating wattage, when starting.  So if you have a refrig that is using 300 watts when running, when it starts, that first HALF second it is pulling 1800 watts. 

On a 15 amp circuit, that is technically enough to blow the breaker.  Breakers have a delay feature that keeps them for blowing for about 60 seconds, that is why they don't typically blow.

 

A GFI does NOT have a delay for obvious reasons. 

 

So, plug that frig into a 20 amp GFI protected outlet to get the full power needed to start without fear that it will trip.

 

I have nearly been shocked at least 2 times when messing with appliances.  Thank goodness the appliances were grounded, but I could feel the tingle on the wet appliances ( I was a teen at the time and they were not GFI protected).

 

 

 

 

-MattL-

 

"Only one GFI is needed"

 

TRUE,

If one were going to install just one circuit that is what you need.

 

The original drawing shows 12/3 Romex , intending there to be 2 separate circuits.  This which will in fact require 2 GFIs.  I intended to have every other outlet on the line, on a separate circuit.

 

But I drew it wrong.  Having every other outlet on a separate circuit in a work area is a good idea, BUT, when doing GFI circuits, you CAN NOT share any of the conductors with another circuit, such as when doing split wiring for switched outlets where you can share the neutral and the ground.

 

One would need to have a separate set of wires run for each circuit.  

 

I've modified the electrical part of the drawing:

 

[this post was last edited: 11/21/2013-04:11]

http://www.helpinaflash.com/House-Projects/GFI-Outlet-Wiring.cfm

 

[mattl]

I didn't see the 12-3.  Yes, there can be no shared wires with a GFI, it's looking for an imbalance and that would certainly cause one.  Depending on how many machines are in use at once is really the deciding factor in how many circuits.  I easily run 2 Duet washers on one 15 amp circuit along with other items.  Probably not ideal but I had no idea when I finished the basement that I would have a washer room....

 

[rustyspaatz]

Duets !

 

I have a Duet.  Have had one since 2007.  I put a watt meter on mine once.

 

They don't use much.  400-500 watts for the medium spins.  The highest Surge was 1100 watts during the final spin. 

 

If you are using two of them, they probably are not going through the same phase of cycle at the same time, so you shouldn't have a problem.

 

Do you have any pics of your set-up/collection?

 

 

 

[thomasortega]

I did something cheaper here...

As my washers are side by side, i simply put T connectors right on the solenoid valve, so i use the washer's hose to connect it to the other next to it.
There's only one tap (the original tap from the apartment, next to the laundry sink).

The only inconvenience about this is that if I want to change a machine or if there's a malfuncion in any of them, i close the tap and there's no water for any machineuntil i disconnect two hoses and conect them using a nipple to bypass the machine to be avoided.

For cold water, as the water pressure is really high and most of them are front loaders, I don't care too much. The only thing I do is start two or three machines at a time and wait until they fill (and flush the detergent dispenser) before starting other two or three machines. if they all start filling for the rinsing at the same time, the low water pressure doesn't bother me.

For draining, i have a machine next to the laundry sink so it drains directly in it. two other machines simply have longer hoses that run on the floor, behind the other machines and drain directly in the sink too and two other machines that i rand a pvc pipe on the wall and also end in the sink. Other machine drains straight at the original stand pipe built in the wall and one of them (Brastemp Eggo) simply drains at the floor drain.

The electrical project was intentionally oversized. all machines operate with independent outlets (there are 8 outlets and 8 circuit breakers) plus a main electronic circuit breaker from Merling Gerin, that has a display and several buttons that I never understood.

The reason it was choosen is only because i have a fire alarm pull station installed as an emergency stop button. It's connected straight to this huge circuit breaker's remote test connector. Once the pull station is pulled, it shuts everything off, then i need to reset both pull station and the main circuit breaker. I do it always i finish doing laundry.

the only problem I had in years was whe i couldn't reset the pull staion because i lost the key. Then I bought an all metal (and ugly) station that only needs a nail or any other pin (even a toothpick) to reset.

 

[Chetlaham]

Ive always wondered...

Unimatic 1140 has tons of washers, how is his setup done? If you know feel free to chime in. Down the road I might end up doing the same thing. Right now its one daily driver hookup and a laundry tub hook up in the garage, nothing more, so its take turns

.

 

[cadman]

I've been very happy with my 8-machine setup. Hot and cold supply is via copper lines with shutoffs, and drain is by a main 3" PVC run with 2" risers. Because we're on a septic system, I was concerned about the amount of water the machines would introduce, so I tee'd the PVC with a 2" ball valve that allows diverting x-amount of drain water to a gray water pit.

Power is via surface mount steel boxes and conduit just below console height. Each box includes a duplex receptacle (handles 2 machines) plus a lighted bat switch so I can tell at a glance which machines are powered. By running a pair of 12-3 Romex, each machine pair gets its own 20 amp breaker.

Some things to consider:
2" dia risers will accommodate drain hose pairs, just space them to fall between machines.

If you plan on running multiple machines at once, go for a 3" main drain pipe, especially if you have quick emptying machines like Frigidaires.

Slightly slope your supply lines and include drain valves at the lowest point if there's a risk of freezing.

Use rubber caps on your PVC if there's a possibility you might one day add-on. This also allows clean out .

Use ball valves for max flow, and sweep-tees for your risers (it does make a difference)

Use 12ga wire, ground everything and avoid GFCIs.
-Cory