I have a Samsung 419 washer, I decided to fiddle around with it today in hopes of being able to get actual hot water when I select normal -> hot. I measured it this morning before doing anything to the machine and the water temp started out at 82 and then hit 74 mid cycle. Obviously that isn't hot. For whatever reason, if I select quickwash -> hot, the water comes out hot and stays a lot hotter than the normal cycle. Anywho, out of curiosity I unplugged the main cold water sensor and got nice hot tap water (gas water heater is set to highest setting) and the water was way too hot to touch so I was happy with that but it didn't add enough water to wet the clothes, most of them were dry but it was continuing on with the cycle. So if I don't use cold water I get true hot water but I also don't get enough water to clean a load. I know some of you were able to "hack" your machines and are able to have your cake and eat it too.... how in the world do I get around this? Thanks!
I need hot water!
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mrb627
Well-known member
Normal? Not Normal!
I would only use Normal for loads that you plan to wash in cold water only. Otherwise, select a cycle like Heavy or the like...
Malcolm
I would only use Normal for loads that you plan to wash in cold water only. Otherwise, select a cycle like Heavy or the like...
Malcolm
If you mean the 419...
... with heater/steam cycles, there might be a lot of things loghting up to you soon.
If you unplug the cold water sensor, what are you refering to? I don't know these machines, but I doubt there are 2 NTC/ flow meters. So you may have disconected any other sensor. But can't say that for sure.
But anyway, the Normal cycle meets energy star ratings by dumping down temperatures. Cooler water + cold drum + clothing + no heater ingaged = cold water. Easy thing to work out. The Quick Wash is hotter as it is not under and regulation. So, to get best results, it adds the water at selected temp and activates the heater.
Now, ways to work around:
1. If you need a hot wash, select the Sanitize/Allergene/Brightest Whites cycle (don't know, but at least one of these should exists). These most likely will heat the water to 120°F or more. If you just need normal hotish water, just avoid Normal/Heavy Duty.
2. Start a hot Quick Wash empty without clothes. Once finished filling, stop cycle, drain, fastly add clothes, start desired cycle. Hot drum = less loss of temperature.
3. Try a steam or stain blaster option and increase the soil level setting. This might lift up temp niveus.
4. You could try to remove the flow restrictor on the hot side only. These are behind the filter screens where the hoses are connected. This should increase the hot flow while keeping the cold flow lower. Could challange the PCB and it might not be abled to compensate it. But only works if there are no flow meters involved.
5. There could be a way to diconect a inlet NTC if there is one. But this only works if there is a separate inlet water NTC. Everything else could damage the heating system.
Now as I finish writing, I realise you probably have disconected the cold inlet valve it self. This won't work as washer will sense this or end up described.
And than again, I think about NTCs and ways to manipulate them without disconecting them. You would need to lower the resitence, so you would need to add a resistor in parralel setting to the NTC.
... with heater/steam cycles, there might be a lot of things loghting up to you soon.
If you unplug the cold water sensor, what are you refering to? I don't know these machines, but I doubt there are 2 NTC/ flow meters. So you may have disconected any other sensor. But can't say that for sure.
But anyway, the Normal cycle meets energy star ratings by dumping down temperatures. Cooler water + cold drum + clothing + no heater ingaged = cold water. Easy thing to work out. The Quick Wash is hotter as it is not under and regulation. So, to get best results, it adds the water at selected temp and activates the heater.
Now, ways to work around:
1. If you need a hot wash, select the Sanitize/Allergene/Brightest Whites cycle (don't know, but at least one of these should exists). These most likely will heat the water to 120°F or more. If you just need normal hotish water, just avoid Normal/Heavy Duty.
2. Start a hot Quick Wash empty without clothes. Once finished filling, stop cycle, drain, fastly add clothes, start desired cycle. Hot drum = less loss of temperature.
3. Try a steam or stain blaster option and increase the soil level setting. This might lift up temp niveus.
4. You could try to remove the flow restrictor on the hot side only. These are behind the filter screens where the hoses are connected. This should increase the hot flow while keeping the cold flow lower. Could challange the PCB and it might not be abled to compensate it. But only works if there are no flow meters involved.
5. There could be a way to diconect a inlet NTC if there is one. But this only works if there is a separate inlet water NTC. Everything else could damage the heating system.
Now as I finish writing, I realise you probably have disconected the cold inlet valve it self. This won't work as washer will sense this or end up described.
And than again, I think about NTCs and ways to manipulate them without disconecting them. You would need to lower the resitence, so you would need to add a resistor in parralel setting to the NTC.
Malcolm, using the heavy duty setting only increases the wash time by a few minutes, there was no change in the temperature of the water unfortunately. The deep steam cycle uses somewhat warm water, I can put my hand in it and it's not uncomfortable. The sanitize cycle, according to Samsung, is the only cycle to use the heater and is supposed to get up to 150 but the door locks so I can't check the temp.
The sensor I disconnected was labeled "cold main wash" and the machine filled with only hot tap water when I ran a test cycle, there was no cold water to be had.
I've run 6 test loads and so far have not gotten any error codes but will have to plug the cold sensor back up so that there is enough water to actually wash a load. Im pretty bummed out. I don't want to use sanitize everytime I need/want hot water but all the other cycles seem to suck! The bedding cycle will only let me use warm, which is only about 60 degrees in my machine and the steam cycle is a total joke. It washes while injecting steam into the top portion of the drum, not the water, and the water is warmsih at best.
I've actually been thinking of having my sister-in-law (shes stationed in Germany) buy a euro washer for me and bring it back to the states when they move back here next month. Id love to be able to select the temps that I want, not what the machine dictates that I need.
The sensor I disconnected was labeled "cold main wash" and the machine filled with only hot tap water when I ran a test cycle, there was no cold water to be had.
I've run 6 test loads and so far have not gotten any error codes but will have to plug the cold sensor back up so that there is enough water to actually wash a load. Im pretty bummed out. I don't want to use sanitize everytime I need/want hot water but all the other cycles seem to suck! The bedding cycle will only let me use warm, which is only about 60 degrees in my machine and the steam cycle is a total joke. It washes while injecting steam into the top portion of the drum, not the water, and the water is warmsih at best.
I've actually been thinking of having my sister-in-law (shes stationed in Germany) buy a euro washer for me and bring it back to the states when they move back here next month. Id love to be able to select the temps that I want, not what the machine dictates that I need.
This idea is good...
... But there is a better and cheaper way: Buy Miele or Bosch right at your place in the states. There temperature selections are translatable into ° round about, and you'll get what you set.
Did some math and physiks: There is no way to ad a resistor to redefine the resitance-pattern of the NTC. It would work with one temp only at a time and depend on your specific model.
... But there is a better and cheaper way: Buy Miele or Bosch right at your place in the states. There temperature selections are translatable into ° round about, and you'll get what you set.
Did some math and physiks: There is no way to ad a resistor to redefine the resitance-pattern of the NTC. It would work with one temp only at a time and depend on your specific model.
davetranter
Well-known member
NTCs
No idea how/where these are fitted to any particular machine, but from experience with a heating boiler some years ago, you can either add another NTC (or resistor) in series (to make the PCB 'think' the water is colder than it is), or insulate the pellet from the water somehow, so that the pellet heats more slowly.
All best
Dave T
For PTCs, you can add a (quite high value) resistor in parallel, but if the total resistance is too low or too high, you will get a 'fault code' as the PCB will assume the thermistor pellet is faulty and 'out of range'......
No idea how/where these are fitted to any particular machine, but from experience with a heating boiler some years ago, you can either add another NTC (or resistor) in series (to make the PCB 'think' the water is colder than it is), or insulate the pellet from the water somehow, so that the pellet heats more slowly.
All best
Dave T
For PTCs, you can add a (quite high value) resistor in parallel, but if the total resistance is too low or too high, you will get a 'fault code' as the PCB will assume the thermistor pellet is faulty and 'out of range'......
I've been looking at Miele's but the model I want is only sold in Europe. Closest and only miele dealer in my area says there are only 4 or 5 models available in the US. Plus, the Army pays to move everything so there would be no extra expense for that.
Does Bosch only make the compact machines or do they have full sizes?
Dave,
Thanks for the info. Im going to have my husband look into it as I really have no clue what you just wrote haha
Does Bosch only make the compact machines or do they have full sizes?
Dave,
Thanks for the info. Im going to have my husband look into it as I really have no clue what you just wrote haha
Can you select one cycle (Quick Wash for hot water), let the machine fill and than change over to another, longer cycle (or will the machine drain)?
How about using Quick Wash with maximum soil and Extra Rinse?
You said, Deep Steam doesn't get much hotter - was that at the start or at the end of the main wash?
The best (as in largest) I could find wash an Asko rated at 2.83 cu.ft., which is .9 cu.ft smaller than your Sammy with temps ranging from cold to 194F.
How about using Quick Wash with maximum soil and Extra Rinse?
You said, Deep Steam doesn't get much hotter - was that at the start or at the end of the main wash?
The best (as in largest) I could find wash an Asko rated at 2.83 cu.ft., which is .9 cu.ft smaller than your Sammy with temps ranging from cold to 194F.
Logixx, thanks for the response. The machine will drain if I do that :-/
For whatever reason, extending the wash cycle doesn't do anything to increase the temp. and extending the wash cycle as long as I can only adds a few more minutes to the main wash and still isn't as long as the normal cycle or any other cycle at that. I checked the deep steam cycle at the beginning, middle and end of the main wash and the water felt a little cooler at the end than at the beginning but there wasn't really a big difference.
I noticed the euro washers are smaller and that kind of bums me out but Id take a smaller drum over cold water anyday!
For whatever reason, extending the wash cycle doesn't do anything to increase the temp. and extending the wash cycle as long as I can only adds a few more minutes to the main wash and still isn't as long as the normal cycle or any other cycle at that. I checked the deep steam cycle at the beginning, middle and end of the main wash and the water felt a little cooler at the end than at the beginning but there wasn't really a big difference.
I noticed the euro washers are smaller and that kind of bums me out but Id take a smaller drum over cold water anyday!
Do you remember...
... that ANY German washer runs on 220V? And the Hertz don't match either. (50 Hertz here vs. 60 Hertz over the pond, I think). I don't know which model you want, but this *could* bring problems. Further, how about parts? If one fails, you have to import it!
... that ANY German washer runs on 220V? And the Hertz don't match either. (50 Hertz here vs. 60 Hertz over the pond, I think). I don't know which model you want, but this *could* bring problems. Further, how about parts? If one fails, you have to import it!
Bosch stopped making "full-size" washers about three years ago.
Hertz
Not sure what the Miele washers say. My Bosch dishwasher runs on 50 and 60 Hertz but does require 220 to 240 volts (and 10 to 16 amps).
Alex
Not sure what the Miele washers say. My Bosch dishwasher runs on 50 and 60 Hertz but does require 220 to 240 volts (and 10 to 16 amps).
Alex
