I Think my duet washer has the black mildew problem

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If you are trying to get a hot wash and can't run a faucet next to the washer, try starting the washer, empty, on a hot wash cycle. Once the water runs hot (you can feel it in the drawer), stop the cycle and drain the water. Then you can start a hot wash cycle with hot water ready to enter the washer.

When running a warm wash, you can just set it to hot. The cold washer and cold water in the hot water line will hopefully end up giving you a warm wash. Since your washer doesn't have a heater, you won't have to worry about it turning on, heating the wash water to hot.
 
Longer Cycles

Whilst I am unaware of the intricacies of your Duet's cycle programming, I am aware on my Miele that cycle times dramatically increase as you decrease temperature from 60º on the Cottons and Heavy Duty Cycles. Of course, this is likely to change if you run smaller loads, and it adjusts cycle times to compensate for each load, but here is a rough idea.

Here is what I've noted at and below 60º:

<ul>
<li>@ 60º - 1hr 45mins before machine is started</li>
<li>@ 50/40º - 2hrs 15mins</li>
<li>30º - 2hrs 30mins</li>
<li>Cold - 2hrs 45mins</li>
</ul>
These are only a rough guide, as I don't remember each cycle like I do on the dishwasher. Although, I take Miele are aware of the 4 points of washing Launderess points out frequently: Time, Temperature, Chemical and Mechanical action. Cold temperature removes chemical and temperature action (Enzymes are for the most part working best from 35º - 45 or 50º), so the Miele adds time for more mechanical action. 

What I understand from your post is the washer is either taking too long without extra rinses, or takes 40 minutes by default. I am *thinking* that maybe the cold option does this? Do you know if the machine increases/decreases time as your get hotter (mine increases again after you from 60º, but only by 20mins for water heating).

 

I also wasn't aware of your machine being so far from the water heater. Like the others have said, running a hot wash on the machine will be equal to running a warmish wash, with the cold(ish) tub, clothes and standing water in the pipes. I agree with their suggestions on that front. If you have a recirculation system on the house you could run it before running a "Hot" wash so that you get a truly hot wash, instead of that luke-warm your house has made you put up with? (Probably one point where the Top-Loader wins: It uses so much water that running the taps hot first is not really needed!)
 
What actually makes you think you have mold in the washer? If I get this right, you say that there is no smell in the washer. I suppose you have inspected the rubber gasket for mold stains as well?
 
logixx

i have check my washer very closely 1 there is no bad smell i even check like a youtube video that was posted on the site if my drain pipe had black spots witch is not the case the rubber gascket has no black spt as well and do not smell bad even inside the rubber seal there is no black spot if there would of been sign of mold it would not be black spots.

But would of cause my washer to smell bad when leaving the door open the mildew problem like i stated in my first post is located in the fabric softner part of the dispenser if my duet washer would of develop a bad smell i would of notice it when removing the clothes.

I even do usaly before the month end run my washer on a full cycle set on hot water or warm 1:04 + extra rinse with no afresh or bleach just hot or warm water normal casual cycle to clean my washer or remaining excess detergent and to clen the dispensers that would flush out if there was remaining detergent, bleach or fabric softner from the dispenser and when needed if my washer smells like humidety use tide cleaner or afresh.
 
Dirt in dispenser

I would say that is a combination of black mould and pink algae, however since it is only in the softner compartment and nowhere else, I would say it is certainly caused by fabric softner.

 

A quick clean of the dispenser will resolve the issue, and regular cleanings will stop it reoccuring, ofcourse if you really wanted to make sure it won't form again, not using softner would resolve this.

 

As it is though, that really isn't a major issue, if you wish to use softner in any type of dispenser this is always an eventuality.

 

Matt
 
thank you hoover

thank you hoover,

thank you very much sometime i wish that for the first rinse if my washer could flush the fabric softner using warm water for the first rinse as if it would fill in warm water for the main wash then as soon as the fabricsoftner is flush then switch for the rest of the fill to cold water that would help its strange but when i chose that model back in 2004 is the fact that i regret not chosing a model with a warm rinse option.

Prof that we learn from or mistake
 
At the risk of being shot at...

The owner's manual to my Frigidaire FL says it's okay to clean the detergent drawer in the dishwasher. In my mind, this would eliminate any and all mold/discoloration issues.
FWIW
 
 
I'd be leery of running a washing machine dispenser drawer through a dishwasher for fear of detergent residue causing oversudsing in the dishwasher ... unless it's first rinsed thoroughly.
 
I once cleaned the fabric softener dispenser from my old Kenmore belt drive in a GE dishwasher I had at the time. It created a waxy film covering every surface of the inside of the dishwasher.

Many pots 'n pans cycles were required with lots of detergent before I felt it was clean enough to wash dishes in again.

I would do this with a garage dishwasher, but I wouldn't attempt it again with my kitchen dishwasher.
 
cleaning the dertergent dispenser

any way before cleaning it in the dishwasher i soak the dispenser in the kitchen sink first then put it in the dishwasher and last step to fully rinse was run my washer on a full cycle no clothes.

i think when using fabric softner the option would be to disolve the fabric softner in warm water or use a downy ball if this is possible in a frontload washer but idk
 
Adding hot water is a good idea, but you should regularly clean out the dispenser drawer to remove any buildup that can support mold.

I like to use fabric softener, but I use just a little bit. For some reason, Downy fabric softener tends to gum up my dispenser, even in summer when my cold water is over 70F (21C) from the tap. I usually add a bit of hot water to bring the level up to the max line of the dispenser when I use Downy. Just be sure to close the drawer slowly to avoid triggering the siphon action, dispensing the softener early.

Snuggle seems to flush out fine without leaving an residue. Curiously, Gain fabric softener, which I would think would be similar to Downy since they are both made by P&G, rinses out of the dispenser drawer cleanly.
 
Softener and Softener Dispensers

On the "Fluffy" softener bottles I use, I have noted the usage instructions suggest adding regular dosage to the cap, then topping off with warm or hot water. Add your dosage to the dispenser (which should only be HALF what is recommended), then top the rest off with Hot water, which should at least prevent the gummy stuff building up - especially as Pierre's machine has such a short cycle.

 

And Pierre, I do doubt the effectiveness of having a warm rinse for softeners in your instance (especially with such low water levels and your long pipe runs). I think it just boils down to how they formulate your preferred brand of softener, and the way in which you dose the softener. 

The other issue is that of dispensing the softener in the first rinse, which would negate its usage. Especially since it would be rinsed away, but as "Launderess" has pointed out, the waxy properties of the stuff could cause dirt and grime to cling back onto the clothes instead of being washed away. (Scary!)

 

But do experiment - try finding a less concentrated brand of softener that suits your sensory palette that is nice and runny, and water it down. Remember to clean the siphon out with pipe-cleaners regularly to stop waxy or mouldy buildup in the dark, moist places down there (that also get warm with Hot/Warm washes).

 

Goodluck!
 
When the machine finishes the cycle, get the clothing out of it as soon as possible. ALWAYS leave the door ajar and the dispenser drawer pulled out about 2" If you do that the problem won't get worse. On a new machine if you do that, you won't ever get mold on the boot and outer tub ever.
 
Growing up

We always USED warm wash/cold rinse on EVERYTHING (if I remember correctly)

I don't ever remember using just COLD/COLD

I do remember my parents and my grandma refusing to use HOT because it would drain all the hot water out of the water heater, but sometimes I would sneak and do it anyway....and the same goes with the dishwasher heat dry cycle. We were not allowed to use that.

At any rate....ever since I've been out on my own, I've used HOT way more than warm and NEVER EVER cold.

My DUET ( which is the same age as the OP ) still smells fantastic inside and I DO use a wee bit of diluted fabric softener
 
I dealt with this problem for a friend of mine like this :

1) run long boil-wash with dishwasher powder.
2) run long boil-wash with a strong laundry powder that contains oxygen bleaching agents e.g. Persil/Ariel here or I'm not sure what in the US.. some version of Tide ?
3) Rinse out detergent drawer with mild solution of chlorine bleach if it's really bad.
4) Remove the drain filter and drawer and leave the door wide open for at least 48 hours to allow the machine to fully dry out.

....

Should remove all the mould, if it doesn't.. I'm not sure what else you could try.

Chlorine bleach directly into the drum isn't a good idea with most front loaders.
 
mrx,

Mrx reread my first post, my 2004 whirlpool duet washer is a model with no internal water heater and do not have what you call a boil wash or sanitize cycle anyway i change brand for fabric sofner seem to help as the kind of fabric sofner i use is more liquid.

And also my washer do not have a drain filter as the filter is self cleaning on my model.
 
Seriously?

You might not be able to do a boil wash, but you could set your water heater very hot, ENSURE that the water is actually steaming at the tap nearest the washer THEN start the machine and run a couple of cycles. Perhaps you could try turning the cold tap down in order to get a good, full hot wash.

OR you could switch the hoses so you got a "Cold" wash that somehow got hot... Maybe it would sit better with you. 

 

It doesn't matter what cycle, so long as what you use has a high water level (at least touching the door-boot/seal). 

 

Also, you don't have to blatantly dis-regard or deny what others are suggesting because your washer "can't do it." (We already know it doesn't have a heater, sanitise cycle etc. - Perhaps someone was trying to get some bells ringing for you).

Try to re-work those suggestions into solutions that work FOR YOU.

 

You have already frustrated at least one member on here enough to stop them from giving you any further help. To be honest, I think I'm about ready to "call it quits" on this thread as I too am getting frustrated with providing suggestions that are disregarded or denied, as are other members who have attempted to give their help. 
 
"And also my washer do not have a drain filter as the filter is self cleaning on my model."

I think you model should have a filter as well. As for high water level: my Whirlpool is electronically more advanced then yours and it doesn't mind if I add extra water to the cycle. If I wanted to clean my machine, I'd set it on a hot wash and, once the fill has completed, open it up and pour as much hot water into the drum as I could (up to the door seal, basically) and restart the cycle.

 
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