I would love to get my sensitemp to work.

[speedqueen]

It looks as though you have only one option left at this point. Before you go spend more money on another sensor, check for continuity and resistance on all connections and if necessary clean contacts, just for good measure. You don't want to throw parts at is if it could be as simple as a dirty connection or open wire. As the resistors and phenolic terminal strips under the high voltage cage on my 1964 RCA color TV have told me, heat isn't kind to electronics and wires.

 

[combo52]

Reply 78

What is the age of your range ?, You might have already posted the model #, but I do not have time to go back and reread all the posts for it.

 

The older GE ranges had a 10 ohm sensor, these had white wires, by the mid 60s they used a 17.5 ohm sensor with yellow leads, these two sensors are not interchangeable.

 

One should always check for broken or disconnected wires, however dirty contacts have never been a problem on senceatemp system on GE ranges either in the sensor circuit and certainly not in the 120 and 240 volt  circuits.

 

John L.

 

[coop58]

Hey John the model number is J797C2WH serial number CZ92220..I contacted GE and was told the serial number should have 6 numbers so only guessed at it being a 1976..I think it's early 70s or late 60s because it has the convenience outlets. The old sensor had 17.5 ohms stamped on it..yellow leads but at some point are spliced to white leads that connect to the responder..I checked the continuity and there is from the yellow to the white...the other 2 yellow leads go to the transformer and they put out 12 volts...the voltage is good at the responder coming out to the surface element is good..the push-button switch has power....the responder is new...when I disconnect the sensor and connect the leads together and the burner comes on..high temp only..the switch changes the 4-6-8-grill settings...let me know what you think about what's going and I appreciate the response

Gary Cooper

 

[sel8207]

burner on high

All sense temps run on full blast; Until... the sensor tells the responder to "shut down" , you just passed the desired or 'dialed in temperature'. If you do not have a pot with say some water in it, on the sensi-temp burner, the burner will continuously run 'full blast'. There is nothing on top of the sensor getting hot enough to make the sensor tell the responder to shut off. Once the pot cools and drops slightly below the dialed in temp, the sensor tells the responder, ok, turn back on. It waffles just above, then below the temp selected. That's a rough explanation of how it works IMO. Les. (someone correct me if I'm wrong. )

 

[coop58]

Reply# 82

Mine doesn't come on at all with the sensor connected...when I disconnect the sensor and connect the leads together that run to the responder then it comes on high and stays on high because the sensor has been bypassed.

 

[combo52]

Hi Gary, you can test the sensor circuit and wiring by testing for 17.5 ohms at the responder, remove the two wires from the responder from terminals marked S and test across these two wires for 17.5 ohms. If you are getting 10 ohms you either got a bad sensor or the wrong one, does yours have white or yellow leads ?

 

John L.

 

[coop58]

Hey John I have it disconnected from the range and in the box...I just tested it right out of box at 15 ohms and climbing at a temp of 70 degrees. The leads are yellow and the leads on the sensor I removed were yellow but are white at the responder. That's kinda strange..is that normal?

 

[coop58]

John the wiring diagram and schematic says it should be 17.5 ohms but at also shows that wires that run from the responder to where it connects to the sensor wires are white ...the there is a c circled which I guess means connection to the sensor

Gary Cooper

 

[coop58]

Hey John to answer your question if the leads are yellow or white..I have both lol yellow on the sensor end and white one the responder end..I know it worked like this for years and I guess the white leads where put on there to avoid confusion having 4 yellow wires at the responder..also I did test the ohms from the responder end and got about the same as out of the box test..if the ohms should be just a steady 17.5 at room temperature the there's are problem because my reading is not stable it just keeps going up and down ..I guess temperature changes make it do that.Does the proper resistance in the sensor what makes the element come to start with ? and why does it come on when I disconnect the sensor and connect the responder leads together?

 

[coop58]

Sensi temp trouble

Purchased another sensor and the ohms were 17.5 hooked it up now working. Obviously the first sensor I bought was defective...ohm readings were all over the place. Next project is the clock and timers.

Gary Cooper

 

[63kenmore]

Resurrecting on old thread...

Our sensi-temp isn't working. After reading here, I know I need to check the resistance of the sensor. I'm worried, however, about parts availability. Here's the Model/Serial info:
Brand: General Electric
Type: Range/Stove/Oven
Country: USA
Model: JCP68OV2WH
Serial: GA282306G
Applicance411 says it should be a 1977. It's in a bad location for a picture, but I'll get one uploaded as soon as I can get the front of it. Other than the Sensi-temp, it seems in pretty good shape. Both ovens work fine, as do the other 3 burners.

Any chance of getting a sensor or responder (or both) anymore?

 

[63kenmore]

UPDATE: Sensor is at 17.5 ohms, so it looks like it needs a responder.

 

[combo52]

Would love to get my senseatemp burner to work

Did you check the transformer isn’t putting out 12 1/2 V when you turn the burner on?

Also be sure to check for any broken wires where they connect to the element

After that you might have a bad responder

John.