OK...I've noticed he is the person to talk to..I've gotten more information from this site than any other. To add to the my confusion is the wiring diagram...that's where I had to stop...it's helpful but wires from the sensor to the responder don't look right
I would love to get my sensitemp to work.
- Thread starter zinniz
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Where did you get your sensor replacement?
What part number? 5207?
Thanks for the reply. The sensi-temp ("automatic calrod" on mine) has never worked since we got our 1958 GE. I was wondering if 5207 would work or not.
The sensor as mentioned should be around 17.5 ohms at room temp, if you want to check the entire sensor circuit check for 17.5 ohms at te responder control with one of the yellow sensor wires disconnected from the responder [ and the range unplugged of course ]
John L.
John L.
Hey spacepig I would suggest buying parts based on the model number or if you know the part number.I purchased my based on it looked the same it was a a perfect fit but that doesn't mean it will work. I have yet to find my model number even exists
I do have the GE parts manual downloaded from the ephemera, and I usually check it against part numbers of the e-bay sensors. So far, no match on the part numbers.
I would even be ok with losing the sensi-temp and putting a regular burner/coil there, but that looks a lot more complex than it sounds (at least to us since we don't know what we're doing).
I would even be ok with losing the sensi-temp and putting a regular burner/coil there, but that looks a lot more complex than it sounds (at least to us since we don't know what we're doing).
There are lots of the 3 size 8" burners available, I have good used and new ones alike that I will sell. I do not have any sensors left for them however.
New ones may still be available from GE, We sell good used ones for 1/2 of the new price.
John L.
New ones may still be available from GE, We sell good used ones for 1/2 of the new price.
John L.
Yes it should read around 17.5 ohms at room temperature.
sel8207
Well-known member
are you sure?
Mine is a 1961 model stove with a sensi temp and the sensor is rated at 10 ohms. Wouldn't the earlier models be the same rating also. Then later on they changed to a 17.5 ohm sensor. His is about a 57' model I think. Les.
Mine is a 1961 model stove with a sensi temp and the sensor is rated at 10 ohms. Wouldn't the earlier models be the same rating also. Then later on they changed to a 17.5 ohm sensor. His is about a 57' model I think. Les.
Sensi temp trouble
Thanks for the info John L. I think I have this sensi temp issue down to a bad responder. If I could find a fixed temp push button switch like my other three I would just change it to a fixed temp burner. So if anyone comes across a GE switch wb23x55 let me know.
Gary C.
Thanks for the info John L. I think I have this sensi temp issue down to a bad responder. If I could find a fixed temp push button switch like my other three I would just change it to a fixed temp burner. So if anyone comes across a GE switch wb23x55 let me know.
Gary C.
speedqueen
Well-known member
It looks as though you have only one option left at this point. Before you go spend more money on another sensor, check for continuity and resistance on all connections and if necessary clean contacts, just for good measure. You don't want to throw parts at is if it could be as simple as a dirty connection or open wire. As the resistors and phenolic terminal strips under the high voltage cage on my 1964 RCA color TV have told me, heat isn't kind to electronics and wires.
Reply 78
What is the age of your range ?, You might have already posted the model #, but I do not have time to go back and reread all the posts for it.
The older GE ranges had a 10 ohm sensor, these had white wires, by the mid 60s they used a 17.5 ohm sensor with yellow leads, these two sensors are not interchangeable.
One should always check for broken or disconnected wires, however dirty contacts have never been a problem on senceatemp system on GE ranges either in the sensor circuit and certainly not in the 120 and 240 volt circuits.
John L.
What is the age of your range ?, You might have already posted the model #, but I do not have time to go back and reread all the posts for it.
The older GE ranges had a 10 ohm sensor, these had white wires, by the mid 60s they used a 17.5 ohm sensor with yellow leads, these two sensors are not interchangeable.
One should always check for broken or disconnected wires, however dirty contacts have never been a problem on senceatemp system on GE ranges either in the sensor circuit and certainly not in the 120 and 240 volt circuits.
John L.
Hey John the model number is J797C2WH serial number CZ92220..I contacted GE and was told the serial number should have 6 numbers so only guessed at it being a 1976..I think it's early 70s or late 60s because it has the convenience outlets. The old sensor had 17.5 ohms stamped on it..yellow leads but at some point are spliced to white leads that connect to the responder..I checked the continuity and there is from the yellow to the white...the other 2 yellow leads go to the transformer and they put out 12 volts...the voltage is good at the responder coming out to the surface element is good..the push-button switch has power....the responder is new...when I disconnect the sensor and connect the leads together and the burner comes on..high temp only..the switch changes the 4-6-8-grill settings...let me know what you think about what's going and I appreciate the response
Gary Cooper
Gary Cooper
sel8207
Well-known member
burner on high
All sense temps run on full blast; Until... the sensor tells the responder to "shut down" , you just passed the desired or 'dialed in temperature'. If you do not have a pot with say some water in it, on the sensi-temp burner, the burner will continuously run 'full blast'. There is nothing on top of the sensor getting hot enough to make the sensor tell the responder to shut off. Once the pot cools and drops slightly below the dialed in temp, the sensor tells the responder, ok, turn back on. It waffles just above, then below the temp selected. That's a rough explanation of how it works IMO. Les. (someone correct me if I'm wrong. )
All sense temps run on full blast; Until... the sensor tells the responder to "shut down" , you just passed the desired or 'dialed in temperature'. If you do not have a pot with say some water in it, on the sensi-temp burner, the burner will continuously run 'full blast'. There is nothing on top of the sensor getting hot enough to make the sensor tell the responder to shut off. Once the pot cools and drops slightly below the dialed in temp, the sensor tells the responder, ok, turn back on. It waffles just above, then below the temp selected. That's a rough explanation of how it works IMO. Les. (someone correct me if I'm wrong. )
Hi Gary, you can test the sensor circuit and wiring by testing for 17.5 ohms at the responder, remove the two wires from the responder from terminals marked S and test across these two wires for 17.5 ohms. If you are getting 10 ohms you either got a bad sensor or the wrong one, does yours have white or yellow leads ?
John L.
John L.
Hey John I have it disconnected from the range and in the box...I just tested it right out of box at 15 ohms and climbing at a temp of 70 degrees. The leads are yellow and the leads on the sensor I removed were yellow but are white at the responder. That's kinda strange..is that normal?
John the wiring diagram and schematic says it should be 17.5 ohms but at also shows that wires that run from the responder to where it connects to the sensor wires are white ...the there is a c circled which I guess means connection to the sensor
Gary Cooper
Gary Cooper
Hey John to answer your question if the leads are yellow or white..I have both lol yellow on the sensor end and white one the responder end..I know it worked like this for years and I guess the white leads where put on there to avoid confusion having 4 yellow wires at the responder..also I did test the ohms from the responder end and got about the same as out of the box test..if the ohms should be just a steady 17.5 at room temperature the there's are problem because my reading is not stable it just keeps going up and down ..I guess temperature changes make it do that.Does the proper resistance in the sensor what makes the element come to start with ? and why does it come on when I disconnect the sensor and connect the responder leads together?
63kenmore
Well-known member
Resurrecting on old thread...
Our sensi-temp isn't working. After reading here, I know I need to check the resistance of the sensor. I'm worried, however, about parts availability. Here's the Model/Serial info:
Brand: General Electric
Type: Range/Stove/Oven
Country: USA
Model: JCP68OV2WH
Serial: GA282306G
Applicance411 says it should be a 1977. It's in a bad location for a picture, but I'll get one uploaded as soon as I can get the front of it. Other than the Sensi-temp, it seems in pretty good shape. Both ovens work fine, as do the other 3 burners.
Any chance of getting a sensor or responder (or both) anymore?
Our sensi-temp isn't working. After reading here, I know I need to check the resistance of the sensor. I'm worried, however, about parts availability. Here's the Model/Serial info:
Brand: General Electric
Type: Range/Stove/Oven
Country: USA
Model: JCP68OV2WH
Serial: GA282306G
Applicance411 says it should be a 1977. It's in a bad location for a picture, but I'll get one uploaded as soon as I can get the front of it. Other than the Sensi-temp, it seems in pretty good shape. Both ovens work fine, as do the other 3 burners.
Any chance of getting a sensor or responder (or both) anymore?
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