turquoisedude
Well-known member
Well, after the weekend 'surprise' visitors left, what do you think I did? Ok, AFTER all the dishes... I had to open up the Inglis and do some 'exploratory surgery'
Inside the Inglis...
- Thread starter turquoisedude
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turquoisedude
Well-known member
There's hope!!
Following the advice from fellow board members (Gordon, Kevin - Thank you so much for the info!!) I took the belt off and tried spinning the pulleys manually... I was delighted (and I mean I was turning cartwheels in the basement) to find that the gears still turned, that I could still make the agitator swing back and forth, and that the pump still turned easily. So, what went wrong?? Check out how messed up the belt looks..
Following the advice from fellow board members (Gordon, Kevin - Thank you so much for the info!!) I took the belt off and tried spinning the pulleys manually... I was delighted (and I mean I was turning cartwheels in the basement) to find that the gears still turned, that I could still make the agitator swing back and forth, and that the pump still turned easily. So, what went wrong?? Check out how messed up the belt looks..
turquoisedude
Well-known member
That drive belt has less teeth than a first-round NHL draft pick! I am guessing that it was slipping for some time and that perhaps just plain bad luck jammed it and the belt started to spin and burn. I was feeling really lucky, so I tried the motor (with no load)... It stated up immediately and seemed to run fine. GASP!
I looked in a Repair-Master that I recently got for Whirlpool-Kenmore washers and I will be damned if I could find how to change the belt.. Am I correct in assuming that I would have to remove the entire gear case to get a new one in??
And I have to ask for opinions and advice on the motor - could it still be OK or should I perhaps be looking for a replacement?? With only the motor running (no load) it was noisy as hell... I thought it was the gear drive that was making all the noise..
I looked in a Repair-Master that I recently got for Whirlpool-Kenmore washers and I will be damned if I could find how to change the belt.. Am I correct in assuming that I would have to remove the entire gear case to get a new one in??
And I have to ask for opinions and advice on the motor - could it still be OK or should I perhaps be looking for a replacement?? With only the motor running (no load) it was noisy as hell... I thought it was the gear drive that was making all the noise..
cfz2882
Well-known member
motor noise
what kind of noise was the motor making?-if it was rattling
while running it could have worn bushings-check for side to
side play of the shaft,if there is more than a tiny amount
the bushings may be worn.
Also what brand is the motor?-is it a canadian GE-endbells
looked GE,but the vents are not the usual shape of a u.s.
GE motor.
what kind of noise was the motor making?-if it was rattling
while running it could have worn bushings-check for side to
side play of the shaft,if there is more than a tiny amount
the bushings may be worn.
Also what brand is the motor?-is it a canadian GE-endbells
looked GE,but the vents are not the usual shape of a u.s.
GE motor.
Paul -
Believe it or not, that belt is not all that unusual. The first signs of wear on a belt in this case is cracks in the 'teeth', and when it wears enough, the teeth or notches come off completely, then the main body of the belt if left in place long enough, separates into several narrower sections.
You don't need to completely remove the gearcase to change the belt, it just needs to be lowered a bit to allow a new belt to be installed. A new 95405 belt has instructions on how to do that. Sounds like your repair master does as well.
As to the noisy motor - In a machine with no belt installed, a good motor will run very quietly. If your motor is noisy or very loud, it will either need to be serviced (looks like a serviceable round motor?) or replaced. There are plenty of U.S. motors around, but I don't know about 50cy. Canadian ones. If you have a good motor to install, the procedure takes about 10 minutes. Between a new belt and replacement or fixed motor, your machine will have a new personality!
Gordon
Believe it or not, that belt is not all that unusual. The first signs of wear on a belt in this case is cracks in the 'teeth', and when it wears enough, the teeth or notches come off completely, then the main body of the belt if left in place long enough, separates into several narrower sections.
You don't need to completely remove the gearcase to change the belt, it just needs to be lowered a bit to allow a new belt to be installed. A new 95405 belt has instructions on how to do that. Sounds like your repair master does as well.
As to the noisy motor - In a machine with no belt installed, a good motor will run very quietly. If your motor is noisy or very loud, it will either need to be serviced (looks like a serviceable round motor?) or replaced. There are plenty of U.S. motors around, but I don't know about 50cy. Canadian ones. If you have a good motor to install, the procedure takes about 10 minutes. Between a new belt and replacement or fixed motor, your machine will have a new personality!
Gordon
turquoisedude
Well-known member
Motor noise
I think the noise would be best described as a 'rattling' and 'loud humming'. Methinks I will look into changing this... It's a Canadian GE motor (1725 RPM, two-speed, 60 cycle) so I should be able to find a replacement easily enough. I have a good parts source near the apartment in Montreal and I know they have used and recon motors.
About the belt - Gordon, there is no specific description of how to do that in the Repair-Master, but what you described makes sense to me! Do you have to loosen the drive lug and loosen the shaft spanner to loosen the gearcase?? Is the actual replacement best done by tipping the machine on it's side?? Thanks for the part number for the belt, too! I will get one ordered ASAP.
I think the noise would be best described as a 'rattling' and 'loud humming'. Methinks I will look into changing this... It's a Canadian GE motor (1725 RPM, two-speed, 60 cycle) so I should be able to find a replacement easily enough. I have a good parts source near the apartment in Montreal and I know they have used and recon motors.
About the belt - Gordon, there is no specific description of how to do that in the Repair-Master, but what you described makes sense to me! Do you have to loosen the drive lug and loosen the shaft spanner to loosen the gearcase?? Is the actual replacement best done by tipping the machine on it's side?? Thanks for the part number for the belt, too! I will get one ordered ASAP.
gyrafoam
Well-known member
Yes. lie the machine down on its front side. Remove the rear-panel and then you will have plenty of light and space.
John Lefever (Combo52) has the best method I have ever seen to change a belt. Takes him about five minutes from start to finnish.
John Lefever (Combo52) has the best method I have ever seen to change a belt. Takes him about five minutes from start to finnish.
The tranny *does not* have to be removed or even dropped down to change the belt. Whirlpool designed the mechanism with accommodations to do the job, although it's not obvious to someone who hasn't done it. Unless they stopped printing it on there (I haven't seen one in years), the belt package has instructions accordingly.
Glenn -
The belt package from WP has not specified a 'non-drop' procedure in many years, I think as this is beyond a lay-person's ability in fast-brake machines where the basket drive yoke is under considerably more brake spring pressure. The procedure can still be done, it's just more difficult. I have not seen a Whirlpool or Kenmore service manual since the 80s that makes any mention of a procedure that does not involve slightly loosening two of the three trans bolts and full removal of the third (the one with the spacer).
I remember somewhere reading an "alternate installation method" that WP had published, but I haven't seen this on later belt packs and it's not in my 1987 Kenmore service manual.
Gordon
The belt package from WP has not specified a 'non-drop' procedure in many years, I think as this is beyond a lay-person's ability in fast-brake machines where the basket drive yoke is under considerably more brake spring pressure. The procedure can still be done, it's just more difficult. I have not seen a Whirlpool or Kenmore service manual since the 80s that makes any mention of a procedure that does not involve slightly loosening two of the three trans bolts and full removal of the third (the one with the spacer).
I remember somewhere reading an "alternate installation method" that WP had published, but I haven't seen this on later belt packs and it's not in my 1987 Kenmore service manual.
Gordon
turquoisedude
Well-known member
I think I found the parts....
through Partselect's Canadian operation. They ship from Canada so the freight charges aren't TOO outrageous... The belt is 'special order' which kinda scares me. It is $25. I found a replacement 'square' style drive motor that fits the criteria - 1725 RPM regular speed 1140 slow, 1/2 HP. They said it does not include the capacitor (starting, I guess??) and that it is a good replacement for a direct-drive machine. Can I use something like this for a belt-drive model like mine?? The price is $190. Is that a reasonable deal or should I see if I can find a used or recon one??
through Partselect's Canadian operation. They ship from Canada so the freight charges aren't TOO outrageous... The belt is 'special order' which kinda scares me. It is $25. I found a replacement 'square' style drive motor that fits the criteria - 1725 RPM regular speed 1140 slow, 1/2 HP. They said it does not include the capacitor (starting, I guess??) and that it is a good replacement for a direct-drive machine. Can I use something like this for a belt-drive model like mine?? The price is $190. Is that a reasonable deal or should I see if I can find a used or recon one??
cfz2882
Well-known member
direct drive motor will not fit a BD-should be able to find
a used for far cheaper than $190-motor problems are very rare
so wouldn't worry at all about using a used motor.I have a 1971
round emerson motor you can have for the cost of shipping,but
you could probably find one a little closer LOL.
a used for far cheaper than $190-motor problems are very rare
so wouldn't worry at all about using a used motor.I have a 1971
round emerson motor you can have for the cost of shipping,but
you could probably find one a little closer LOL.
pierreandreply4
Well-known member
i am sure that it is fixable and i hope to see some pictures of you inglis washer whe the repairs are completed as well as a close up of the control panel timer knob closeup water tem and water level and a closeup picture of the inside please if its possible
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