neptunebob
Well-known member
I hope you took a picture of the intact transmission
All those small parts, remember how they went together.
All those small parts, remember how they went together.
Inglis TO-41001 Commercial Belt Drive Rebuild -A few questions-
- Thread starter vegabass25
- Start date
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vegabass25
Active member
Bob-
Got a few pictures during disassembly in case of any oddities or confusion lol.
But I made sure I had a parts breakdown in hand before disassembly. Its not too much worse than a DD transmission, and much less tedious than the vintage clock/timer motors I routinely find myself working on.
Besides the controls and cabinet braces, this machine is as apart as it gets. Its been alot of fun so far!
The sleeve is fully prepped for install. One more round of rust jelly is on in a few tiny missed spots near the top of the center post. Sleeve will be installed tomorrow!
Thanks
Got a few pictures during disassembly in case of any oddities or confusion lol.
But I made sure I had a parts breakdown in hand before disassembly. Its not too much worse than a DD transmission, and much less tedious than the vintage clock/timer motors I routinely find myself working on.
Besides the controls and cabinet braces, this machine is as apart as it gets. Its been alot of fun so far!
The sleeve is fully prepped for install. One more round of rust jelly is on in a few tiny missed spots near the top of the center post. Sleeve will be installed tomorrow!
Thanks
That base plate is looking great
Hi Landon, your efforts so far approved that you can restore almost anything that one puts their minds to. Take some close-up pictures if you can of how that face plate center post is restored. I think you're onto a really great way of doing this more easily than welding the material around the base plate that we did.
It was a pleasure talking to you the other day. It's always fun to interact with somebody with such great abilities, hopefully this weekend we will get a chance to put together a box of parts for this project to ship to you once you get the pieces you need this project won't take very long.
I'm hoping this weekend to try to sort out the area where all the belt drive whirlpool laundry parts have been piled, my young friends Chris and Tate are going to be here this weekend and they can help organize and sort the parts.
There are still nearly a dozen belt drive whirlpool washers around here that I need to get rebuilt both for myself and a few others.
John
Hi Landon, your efforts so far approved that you can restore almost anything that one puts their minds to. Take some close-up pictures if you can of how that face plate center post is restored. I think you're onto a really great way of doing this more easily than welding the material around the base plate that we did.
It was a pleasure talking to you the other day. It's always fun to interact with somebody with such great abilities, hopefully this weekend we will get a chance to put together a box of parts for this project to ship to you once you get the pieces you need this project won't take very long.
I'm hoping this weekend to try to sort out the area where all the belt drive whirlpool laundry parts have been piled, my young friends Chris and Tate are going to be here this weekend and they can help organize and sort the parts.
There are still nearly a dozen belt drive whirlpool washers around here that I need to get rebuilt both for myself and a few others.
John
vegabass25
Active member
Refurbished base plate!
Made great progress on the base plate since my last posts. All is going very well!
Yesterday I Fully finished prep and made sure there where no dirt or oils on the plate or post. I then mixed up some Loctite EA-3478 (about 55g worth of mixed product) and applied it liberally to both the center post and inside of sleeve. I then pressed the sleeve on. Sleeve is a perfect firm fit so this epoxy bond should hold up very well and be plenty strong. See pics.
Today, I Primed the whole assembly with an etching primer, and then painted it. I used black paint since I had a few cans of Krylon stuff I really like, that has proven itself very durable. Pics below. I'm quite happy with the finished product! One rust free base plate with reinforced and protected center post. Once the new spin tube bearings and seals are installed, I will seal the two layers at the top of the post with 3m 5200 marine sealant. Just to make sure no water gets in any crevice and causes problems. I'm going to let the plates paint cure a few days before I do anything further. Nice to see this part finished and saved!
Hi John- I've always enjoyed bringing older, well made usually smaller appliances back to life. We used to make such nice things that just did their job. Always fun, and has saved me and family money many times as a bonus.
I appreciate the kindness. Repairing things has always brought me alot of satisfaction. Hope the sorting goes well. The efforts on locating these parts is very much appreciated! I located some 5/16" 1-1/2 OD stainless fender washers and some rubber gasket material to install the tub the way you suggested when the time comes. That tub is the next part to get properly cleaned, de rusted, and touched up.
Enjoy the pictures of my progress, and thanks for reading.
Made great progress on the base plate since my last posts. All is going very well!
Yesterday I Fully finished prep and made sure there where no dirt or oils on the plate or post. I then mixed up some Loctite EA-3478 (about 55g worth of mixed product) and applied it liberally to both the center post and inside of sleeve. I then pressed the sleeve on. Sleeve is a perfect firm fit so this epoxy bond should hold up very well and be plenty strong. See pics.
Today, I Primed the whole assembly with an etching primer, and then painted it. I used black paint since I had a few cans of Krylon stuff I really like, that has proven itself very durable. Pics below. I'm quite happy with the finished product! One rust free base plate with reinforced and protected center post. Once the new spin tube bearings and seals are installed, I will seal the two layers at the top of the post with 3m 5200 marine sealant. Just to make sure no water gets in any crevice and causes problems. I'm going to let the plates paint cure a few days before I do anything further. Nice to see this part finished and saved!
Hi John- I've always enjoyed bringing older, well made usually smaller appliances back to life. We used to make such nice things that just did their job. Always fun, and has saved me and family money many times as a bonus.
I appreciate the kindness. Repairing things has always brought me alot of satisfaction. Hope the sorting goes well. The efforts on locating these parts is very much appreciated! I located some 5/16" 1-1/2 OD stainless fender washers and some rubber gasket material to install the tub the way you suggested when the time comes. That tub is the next part to get properly cleaned, de rusted, and touched up.
Enjoy the pictures of my progress, and thanks for reading.
vegabass25
Active member
Tub Time
Yesterday and today, I've been working on cleaning and de-rusting the tub.
I started by washing it down with Spray Nine, and then carefully grinding the rust spots with my Dremel. I then applied rust jelly to the deeper pits and around center post seal and tub drain areas. No rust remains!
Haven't decided what to use to coat these spots. The marine sealant should be just fine to protect around bolts, drain and post areas when I seal those. The enamel on the bottom of the tub is also worn a bit thin. Perhaps I should coat the whole bottom with something, But I need to investigate something waterproof that sticks to this material well.
I also threw all the machines hardware and small parts in the ultrasonic cleaner. Came out nice and clean. No gear oil left on anything except the inside of the cabinet now, lol
I'll have some pics tonight of the progress with the tub. Cheers everyone!
Yesterday and today, I've been working on cleaning and de-rusting the tub.
I started by washing it down with Spray Nine, and then carefully grinding the rust spots with my Dremel. I then applied rust jelly to the deeper pits and around center post seal and tub drain areas. No rust remains!
Haven't decided what to use to coat these spots. The marine sealant should be just fine to protect around bolts, drain and post areas when I seal those. The enamel on the bottom of the tub is also worn a bit thin. Perhaps I should coat the whole bottom with something, But I need to investigate something waterproof that sticks to this material well.
I also threw all the machines hardware and small parts in the ultrasonic cleaner. Came out nice and clean. No gear oil left on anything except the inside of the cabinet now, lol
I'll have some pics tonight of the progress with the tub. Cheers everyone!
vegabass25
Active member
Here are some pictures of the outer tub after I removed all the rust. A few cracks around center hole, and of course the one bolt hole has one thats over an inch long. There are two small spots that are rusted though as well. One is at the tub drain. See pics. I may try painting the bottom portion of the tub with that bathtub enamel paint. Still thinking on that. I'm confident I can make this tub work and last.
I also cleaned up the inner basket and began de-rusting the inside of its post. Its in very good condition overall for the amount of use on this machine.
Thanks for reading. Tomorrow I'm going to clean up the motor and give it some oil. I Need a break from rust removal related tasks lol. -Landon
I also cleaned up the inner basket and began de-rusting the inside of its post. Its in very good condition overall for the amount of use on this machine.
Thanks for reading. Tomorrow I'm going to clean up the motor and give it some oil. I Need a break from rust removal related tasks lol. -Landon
repairguy
Well-known member
You’re doing an excellent job! When you get finished this machine will be ready for another 40 years of dependable service.
Beautiful work. Thanks for showing, and thanks to all who are helping you.
Great job so far Landon and thank you for sharing the updates. I'm confident you'll have this up and running like a new machine.
As for bathtub paint - no experience with that myself but I'm not sure I would use it. I know when you use that stuff on a bathtub you can only clean it with mild detergent subsequently. I've never seen examples of people being happy with the results of painted bathtubs in the longer term so not sure I would risk it.
Many on the site including myself have had good success with POR15 however yours isn't actually rusty for the most part so it may not stick as well. Maybe just fill the holes and touch up just the areas you've sanded. The rest of the tub looks really good. You can get the tub repair kit for the mounting holes that includes oversized washers to seal a greater area.
As for bathtub paint - no experience with that myself but I'm not sure I would use it. I know when you use that stuff on a bathtub you can only clean it with mild detergent subsequently. I've never seen examples of people being happy with the results of painted bathtubs in the longer term so not sure I would risk it.
Many on the site including myself have had good success with POR15 however yours isn't actually rusty for the most part so it may not stick as well. Maybe just fill the holes and touch up just the areas you've sanded. The rest of the tub looks really good. You can get the tub repair kit for the mounting holes that includes oversized washers to seal a greater area.
vegabass25
Active member
Melvin, Chris, and James-
Thanks for your kind words on the progress so far! Alot of work, but going smoothly
Lots of great people on this forum who have been quite helpful! I'm glad people are enjoying the updates and adventures in rebuilding this machine.
James- I think you are correct- I'll just touch up the spots that need it with a sealant I trust. No finish is as good as the original. Quite a few little rust pecks but I can cover them with precision. I dont want the possible problems that can occur if pieces of paint or sealant come off or get loose and trap dirt and water making things worse.
Update on progress- Currently cleaning up the sediment trap, air dome, and tub drain seal. All these parts seem in great shape to re use. Going to take pully and brackets off motor and start cleaning those parts and motor today.
Thanks for reading- Have a good day everyone!
Thanks for your kind words on the progress so far! Alot of work, but going smoothly
Lots of great people on this forum who have been quite helpful! I'm glad people are enjoying the updates and adventures in rebuilding this machine.James- I think you are correct- I'll just touch up the spots that need it with a sealant I trust. No finish is as good as the original. Quite a few little rust pecks but I can cover them with precision. I dont want the possible problems that can occur if pieces of paint or sealant come off or get loose and trap dirt and water making things worse.
Update on progress- Currently cleaning up the sediment trap, air dome, and tub drain seal. All these parts seem in great shape to re use. Going to take pully and brackets off motor and start cleaning those parts and motor today.
Thanks for reading- Have a good day everyone!
vegabass25
Active member
Motor and other parts cleaned
The past few days I've been slowly working on cleaning up and lubricating the motor. It had alot of dust, lint, Belt residue and grease inside. It also had a good coating of gear oil residue all over it. I brushed and blasted in some electric motor cleaner and compressed air. I then knocked off the little end caps on each end of the motor and added a good dose of SAE30 oil to the oil wicks. Runs quiet and spins much more freely in test. Seems to be in good condition!
I also cleaned up the brackets and pully, as well as the air dome and trap assembly.
Next up is finishing the cleanup and touchup of the inner basket center post.
Thanks -Landon
The past few days I've been slowly working on cleaning up and lubricating the motor. It had alot of dust, lint, Belt residue and grease inside. It also had a good coating of gear oil residue all over it. I brushed and blasted in some electric motor cleaner and compressed air. I then knocked off the little end caps on each end of the motor and added a good dose of SAE30 oil to the oil wicks. Runs quiet and spins much more freely in test. Seems to be in good condition!
I also cleaned up the brackets and pully, as well as the air dome and trap assembly.
Next up is finishing the cleanup and touchup of the inner basket center post.
Thanks -Landon
It's looking really good
This machine will be in close to new operating condition when you're done.
I rounded up most of the parts you need yesterday new agitator shaft spin tube transmission gasket. Don't remember what else at the moment.
Will try to get the stuff boxed up over this holiday weekend, we've been really busy at work always gets extremely busy around the holidays ovens and dishwashers seem to miraculously break right before Thanksgiving, lol
John
This machine will be in close to new operating condition when you're done.
I rounded up most of the parts you need yesterday new agitator shaft spin tube transmission gasket. Don't remember what else at the moment.
Will try to get the stuff boxed up over this holiday weekend, we've been really busy at work always gets extremely busy around the holidays ovens and dishwashers seem to miraculously break right before Thanksgiving, lol
John
vegabass25
Active member
Happy Thanksgiving
John-
Very much appreciated! Glad you found a transmission gasket as well. Really didn't want to have to use RTV sealant. You have saved me alot of difficulty rounding up all these parts. I'm really looking forward to when it's time to start re-assembling some things, and am quite happy with the progress so far!
lol I can imagine appliance repair really takes off leading into any holiday! I sell a ton of oven bake elements at the hardware store in days leading up to any major holiday. Enough of a trend that I triple inventory of most common oven parts.
Hope alls well, and Happy Thanksgiving!
-Landon
John-
Very much appreciated! Glad you found a transmission gasket as well. Really didn't want to have to use RTV sealant. You have saved me alot of difficulty rounding up all these parts. I'm really looking forward to when it's time to start re-assembling some things, and am quite happy with the progress so far!
lol I can imagine appliance repair really takes off leading into any holiday! I sell a ton of oven bake elements at the hardware store in days leading up to any major holiday. Enough of a trend that I triple inventory of most common oven parts.
Hope alls well, and Happy Thanksgiving!
-Landon
vegabass25
Active member
Looks like I have everything I need
Hello all, and happy holidays. Hope everyone had a good Christmas!
I received all the parts I need from John on Christmas eve which is excellent! Procuring all these parts without him would have been sooo many separate orders and headaches/cost, so I am extremely thankful for the help!
John- I noticed you had included a large oilite bearing in the package, which at first I thought was a spare center post bearing. I now see it appears to be a new bearing for the spin pully. Thanks for that! The clutch actuator is also correct. Seems to even be an improved adjustable version (see pics)
Currently rebuilding the basket drive assembly. I've got it fully disassembled and have begun the cleanup. The parts are in good condition. good amount of material left on the three slides on the spin clutch.
There is a felt oil wick that sits on top of the pully. Am I correct to assume it provides a very slight oiling to the three pad spin clutch? Does not seem like it would be supplying oil to the spin tube/bearing if it just sits on the pully. Pretty cool design if so. Usually oil is to be kept away from things like this.
Should have the basket drive rebuilt by tomorrow, and then will move on to the transmissions reassembly. Cheers everyone!
-Landon
Hello all, and happy holidays. Hope everyone had a good Christmas!
I received all the parts I need from John on Christmas eve which is excellent! Procuring all these parts without him would have been sooo many separate orders and headaches/cost, so I am extremely thankful for the help!
John- I noticed you had included a large oilite bearing in the package, which at first I thought was a spare center post bearing. I now see it appears to be a new bearing for the spin pully. Thanks for that! The clutch actuator is also correct. Seems to even be an improved adjustable version (see pics)
Currently rebuilding the basket drive assembly. I've got it fully disassembled and have begun the cleanup. The parts are in good condition. good amount of material left on the three slides on the spin clutch.
There is a felt oil wick that sits on top of the pully. Am I correct to assume it provides a very slight oiling to the three pad spin clutch? Does not seem like it would be supplying oil to the spin tube/bearing if it just sits on the pully. Pretty cool design if so. Usually oil is to be kept away from things like this.
Should have the basket drive rebuilt by tomorrow, and then will move on to the transmissions reassembly. Cheers everyone!
-Landon
Yay glad you got all the parts
Hi Landon I threw in a clutch pulley bearing if it's not badly worn you don't really need to change it. You have to press it out of the pulley, if you press the bearing out of the pulley, you'll notice there's a groove behind the bearing cut into the cast-iron pulley, you put grease in that groove which can soak into the oil light bearing to keep that clutch pulley bearing lubricated.
That piece of felt that goes on top of the pulley was actually to try to keep oil from migrating out of the bearing and getting on the clutch pads. The clutch pads are supposed to run dry and if they get too oily, they would slip, if that felt pad seems too oily. You might try to de-oil it or grease it a little bit,
Will all be excited to see you get the machine running happy New Year's. Keep us posted.
John L
Hi Landon I threw in a clutch pulley bearing if it's not badly worn you don't really need to change it. You have to press it out of the pulley, if you press the bearing out of the pulley, you'll notice there's a groove behind the bearing cut into the cast-iron pulley, you put grease in that groove which can soak into the oil light bearing to keep that clutch pulley bearing lubricated.
That piece of felt that goes on top of the pulley was actually to try to keep oil from migrating out of the bearing and getting on the clutch pads. The clutch pads are supposed to run dry and if they get too oily, they would slip, if that felt pad seems too oily. You might try to de-oil it or grease it a little bit,
Will all be excited to see you get the machine running happy New Year's. Keep us posted.
John L
vegabass25
Active member
We have a basket drive
Hey all! Happy new year!
Basket drive was rebuilt without any hiccups. Everything was thoroughly cleaned and degreased with brake cleaner while I had it apart. I had to replace the thrust washers between the pully as the old ones fell apart in my hands. I used blue loctite on the set screw as well after compressing the clutch assembly with a quick grip clamp to line it up with the hole easily.
John- About that "oil wick" on the pully -It absorbing excess oil from the bearing makes much more sense. I made sure to clean it thoroughly so it's dry and good to absorb more oil as the machine gets used. It was soaked in oil before I cleaned it.
I also did end up pressing out and replacing the bearing. That went very well. There was a radial groove in the pully behind bearing as you said. It was packed with permawick, so I let it absorb a good bit of SAE30 oil before reassembly. The original bearing was fine, But I wanted to get it out either way so I could properly clean it and soak it in oil. I'll keep it as a spare as I hope this will not be the last belt drive machine I work on!
More updates coming soon as I begin the transmissions reassembly!
-Landon
Hey all! Happy new year!
Basket drive was rebuilt without any hiccups. Everything was thoroughly cleaned and degreased with brake cleaner while I had it apart. I had to replace the thrust washers between the pully as the old ones fell apart in my hands. I used blue loctite on the set screw as well after compressing the clutch assembly with a quick grip clamp to line it up with the hole easily.
John- About that "oil wick" on the pully -It absorbing excess oil from the bearing makes much more sense. I made sure to clean it thoroughly so it's dry and good to absorb more oil as the machine gets used. It was soaked in oil before I cleaned it.
I also did end up pressing out and replacing the bearing. That went very well. There was a radial groove in the pully behind bearing as you said. It was packed with permawick, so I let it absorb a good bit of SAE30 oil before reassembly. The original bearing was fine, But I wanted to get it out either way so I could properly clean it and soak it in oil. I'll keep it as a spare as I hope this will not be the last belt drive machine I work on!
More updates coming soon as I begin the transmissions reassembly!
-Landon
vegabass25
Active member
We have transmission!
Hey all!
Excited to say the transmission has been rebuilt! Was alot of fun bringing this assembly back to life considering what I started with. So much cleanup and prep to get to this point. Well worth it.
It has a new agitator shaft, New OEM gasket, replaced clutch actuator, and 16oz of new oil (Castrol SAE 80W-90 with the LS additive) I also noticed one of the shafts on the pitman arm was ever so slightly loose so I gave it a good squeeze in the press to tighten its "riveted" type fastening. AND I didn't forget to install the ball and plate under the agitator shaft lol
The wig wag plungers, cam bars and rollers have been lightly lubed with Super Lube.The cam bars where also filed carefully where there was slight wear to get rid of any rough or catchy spots. In a hand-run bench test everything turns and shifts very smoothly. I engaged the magnets with my test cord to ensure proper operation in all modes. Even got to hear that lovely buzzing sound the solenoids sometimes make. I haven't heard that sound in over 20 years. I'm happy with the results.
Now to mate the transmission with the basket drive with belt and make sure everythings adjusted correctly so the entire drive assembly is ready to be installed when the time comes. Will use turbine oil/SAE30 non detergent as recommended in service manual for the bearings.
I have Red n' Tacky and Super Lube greases on hand. Should I pick up some Rykon grease for the plastic T bearing and bottom oil seal? or will one of my two greases suffice? I know the Rykon deals with moisture best but If water gets to these parts there is already a bigger issue anyway lol
Cheers everyone! Next up is installing bearings and seals in center post, and cleaning up the agitator inside so I can make sure its a tight fit on the new shaft. It was a little wobbly on the old one and I'm hoping that's just due to the wear and rust.
Thanks
-Landon
Hey all!
Excited to say the transmission has been rebuilt! Was alot of fun bringing this assembly back to life considering what I started with. So much cleanup and prep to get to this point. Well worth it.
It has a new agitator shaft, New OEM gasket, replaced clutch actuator, and 16oz of new oil (Castrol SAE 80W-90 with the LS additive) I also noticed one of the shafts on the pitman arm was ever so slightly loose so I gave it a good squeeze in the press to tighten its "riveted" type fastening. AND I didn't forget to install the ball and plate under the agitator shaft lol
The wig wag plungers, cam bars and rollers have been lightly lubed with Super Lube.The cam bars where also filed carefully where there was slight wear to get rid of any rough or catchy spots. In a hand-run bench test everything turns and shifts very smoothly. I engaged the magnets with my test cord to ensure proper operation in all modes. Even got to hear that lovely buzzing sound the solenoids sometimes make. I haven't heard that sound in over 20 years. I'm happy with the results.
Now to mate the transmission with the basket drive with belt and make sure everythings adjusted correctly so the entire drive assembly is ready to be installed when the time comes. Will use turbine oil/SAE30 non detergent as recommended in service manual for the bearings.
I have Red n' Tacky and Super Lube greases on hand. Should I pick up some Rykon grease for the plastic T bearing and bottom oil seal? or will one of my two greases suffice? I know the Rykon deals with moisture best but If water gets to these parts there is already a bigger issue anyway lol
Cheers everyone! Next up is installing bearings and seals in center post, and cleaning up the agitator inside so I can make sure its a tight fit on the new shaft. It was a little wobbly on the old one and I'm hoping that's just due to the wear and rust.
Thanks
-Landon
Whirlpool belt drive washer, mechanical restoration
Looking good you're well on your way to a sturdy great functioning washing machine.
The grease you have is fine for the T bearing, it's obviously not a very critical part and I've never seen a lubrication failure on a T bearing less water has been going through the Bearings. The T bearing is really a spacer and a support to support the basket drive assembly.that allows the shafts to turn independently, but there's not a lot of movement against it, which is why they found they could make it out of plastic and it never failed.
Hi Landon looks like a good winter project. I've been hanging out in the basement. Rebuilding a 1968 versa Tronic GE range. I will post pictures soon. It's nearly done.
John
Looking good you're well on your way to a sturdy great functioning washing machine.
The grease you have is fine for the T bearing, it's obviously not a very critical part and I've never seen a lubrication failure on a T bearing less water has been going through the Bearings. The T bearing is really a spacer and a support to support the basket drive assembly.that allows the shafts to turn independently, but there's not a lot of movement against it, which is why they found they could make it out of plastic and it never failed.
Hi Landon looks like a good winter project. I've been hanging out in the basement. Rebuilding a 1968 versa Tronic GE range. I will post pictures soon. It's nearly done.
John
Landon
You have the touch ! When you love a machine it doesnt' matter how far it's gone, determination and desire will restore anything in time !
But I am glad you have John for this project he's the expert on belt drives and He will get you through this. They're his secret passion!
I love the gun metal gray tub never seen that and the tranny has the 1950s pulley with spokes SO COOL !
You have the touch ! When you love a machine it doesnt' matter how far it's gone, determination and desire will restore anything in time !
But I am glad you have John for this project he's the expert on belt drives and He will get you through this. They're his secret passion!
I love the gun metal gray tub never seen that and the tranny has the 1950s pulley with spokes SO COOL !
vegabass25
Active member
Hello everyone!
Sorry to disappear on everyone following this.
Work on the machine had to be backburner'd due to some major plumbing repairs that required me to break up some concrete and replace a majority of the 70 year old cast iron drainlines under my house.
I do all my own work while working full time so it took me awhile. Thankfully the upstairs bathroom remained unaffected due to where it connects to the main, so I was able to take the time to do it all correctly. All thats left is deciding on a new bathroom floor and plopping my old reliable toilet back in place. easy stuff.
I plan to continue work on the washer in the next week or two. Everythings as I left it, and the weather is getting nicer, So I'll be able to clean, pressure wash and possibly paint it's cabinet as well!
John and Jon- Thanks so much! The pulley is quite unique based on that I've seen on other belt drives. Perhaps due to the narrow belt. I love the color of the tub as well. The machine has a few uniquenesses that I love.
I got a handful of NOS pumps for the machine from a retired appliance tech. Two are the shitty blue ones (which are in FSP boxes...) and one is a genuine beige FSP pump new in the bag. Good to have some spares and one good quality pump for the machine. I took the old busted up blue pump (that somehow didn't leak) apart just for fun. I'll post pics soon, kind of a neat, simple design.
Thanks for reading, I look forward to getting this unit back to life and continuing work as I was
-Landon
Sorry to disappear on everyone following this.
Work on the machine had to be backburner'd due to some major plumbing repairs that required me to break up some concrete and replace a majority of the 70 year old cast iron drainlines under my house.
I do all my own work while working full time so it took me awhile. Thankfully the upstairs bathroom remained unaffected due to where it connects to the main, so I was able to take the time to do it all correctly. All thats left is deciding on a new bathroom floor and plopping my old reliable toilet back in place. easy stuff.
I plan to continue work on the washer in the next week or two. Everythings as I left it, and the weather is getting nicer, So I'll be able to clean, pressure wash and possibly paint it's cabinet as well!
John and Jon- Thanks so much! The pulley is quite unique based on that I've seen on other belt drives. Perhaps due to the narrow belt. I love the color of the tub as well. The machine has a few uniquenesses that I love.
I got a handful of NOS pumps for the machine from a retired appliance tech. Two are the shitty blue ones (which are in FSP boxes...) and one is a genuine beige FSP pump new in the bag. Good to have some spares and one good quality pump for the machine. I took the old busted up blue pump (that somehow didn't leak) apart just for fun. I'll post pics soon, kind of a neat, simple design.
Thanks for reading, I look forward to getting this unit back to life and continuing work as I was
-Landon
