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You can see, well you can see the inside is not

Quite clean. Will sort that out presently soon as some other issues are attended. Am going to give the boot and upper areas a good scrub with disinfectant cleaner, then run a rinse only cycle. This followed by a boil wash with vinegar should clean up any other muck and deal with a rather strong pong coming from tub.

Am guessing the whiff was caused by machine being unused and shut up (tsk, tsk, tsk), but that is small beer. Will also have to take out lint filter to see what there is down below.

Have long ago made a vow *NOT* to rush out and buy new things each time something arrives. Thus spent a good part of yesterday hunting down long ago stashed spare hoses, clamps, and so forth. European washing machines have different hose fittings (found that out when the Miele arrived many years ago now), but recalled having a job lot sent from Europe for the AEG OKO-Lavamat. Question was where did one put the things?

Other issue is that the AEG Electrolux uses that blasted AquaStop type fill hose. That will have to go eventually. But was glad previous owners sent it along so just needed to fit an extension hose with proper faucet coupling, so that's me sorted.

All and all an interesting bit of kit from Electrolux.

You can see how the lid does not close fully. One supposes that is to allow machine to air out between uses. All one need do is press gently and lid locks.

Downloaded manual but since have the OKO-Lavamat things aren't that much different. However Electrolux did make some changes along way.

"Zeit Sparen" is the "time saver" button. Same as with my other AEG one uses this to shave time off cycles. Maddening thing is manual does not give cycle times; merely says "refer to machine".

This model does not have a "Sensitive" function. The 46210 does, but that is a minor niggle. More so because unlike my OKO-Lavamat this machine does not allow use of "Rinse Plus" and Sensitive. The latter did so for "Cottons/Linens", and a few other cycles. However those which already had high water usage (such as Delicates) didn't allow.

One can open this machine up to ten minutes into cycle. One knows from old that amount of time is allotted by AEG to heat water. Thus one assumes to prevent scalding or whatever once machine reaches temperature it is "locked".

Another minor issue is lack of "20C" (no heat) option for normal and most other cycles. There are times when doing say a warm, or cold wash that don't want the bother (nor expense) of using machine's heaters. But guess Electrolux thought different.
 
Thank you Louis

Recall asking your advice about the other older AEG toplader was after, so am reassured you find this model more suitable.

A quick search on internet saw there are tons of parts still out there for this machine, even directly from Electrolux. But since they won't ship to USA will not even bother contacting.

Manual goes on about something called "Night Plus", but don't believe this model of toplader has that feature. My other AEG is dead quiet except at highest spin speed (1800), thus am curious as to what Electrolux has up their sleeves.

Drum is *huge*! Can see why Electrolux claims this washer holds 12lbs. Am not going to test limits, heavy things like blankets will still go into the Maytag wringer.[this post was last edited: 6/17/2018-10:50]
 
You are most welcome !

Also while perusing the net try Eurospares and any other supplier if you need anything they do not have its worth asking on here in case any of us lot have it stashed in a box I have some Miele bits and pieces I have stored and so far not needed :)

Austin
 
Miele

You can't fail, can you?

My W1070 just keeps on chugging along. Yes, she rattles and creaks while spinning, but the old girl just won't quit. Not sure what one will do when that day comes. There is well over $600 in newish parts in that machine which will not be rubbished! *LOL*
 
This is the AquaStop hose in question.

Interesting and useful bit of information is that Electrolux for some insane reasoning has parts for AEG, Zanussi, Zanker, and Privileg.

This means depending upon age of machine in question if a part cannot be found for say Lavamat, it might be as Zanussi, or Zanker.

In any event the water hose must go because it requires faucet with screws on outside. Also Electrolux does not recommend use of extensions (scrub that), and hose only comes in one short size. Went through this with the AEG Oko-Lavamat and thus already know one does not *need* this silly hose. It will remain for time being, but am making plans to replace.

launderess-2018061711055606774_1.jpg
 
Good luck and many happy hours of washing with your new addition!
Not sure if this has been discussed before, but I`m curious about the one paddle design.
How exactly does it work with only one paddle or is there something else hidden under the lid we can`t see ? It`s not spinning the drum three times faster during wash and rinse agitation than a "normal" drum, is it ?

There is no comparable FL with only paddle out there, is there ?
How can you trust a very unique washer design if there is no youtube video out there to judge it before you buy. I couldn`t *LOL*
 
Like many modern European appliances of recent days this machine won't run on anything but 50hz. She hikes up her skirts and runs from anything else! *LOL*

Previous owners living in a rural area used a generator throttled down a few pegs. Obviously that won't go here; so a friend is going to supply a frequency converter.

Sadly the device for now will only give about 1.5kw, barely half of required. But am simply going to dispense with allowing machine to self heat water. Supplied voltage should be enough for everything else. Would require a frequency converter in excess of 3kw, which while easily found, would be nearly size of machine and cost sums equal to a new Miele W1! *LOL*

Between the Miele and OKO-Lavamat am well sorted with washing machines that do profile, boil washes and so forth. Then have several boiling pots that can be put on range; so that's me for you.

We all have to make do sometimes. Machine was free so that is something anyway.

And having lost out on the other AEG what could one do? Have fancied toplader H-axis washers since first visit to France years ago now. [this post was last edited: 6/18/2018-04:42]
 
@ Mrs Bucket...

What does the 'Energiesparen' programme do (11 O'clock on the dial)?

I imagine it saves energy. Could it be a 'no heat' programme?

If push came to shove, I suppose you could connect the hose to the hot tap and allow the machine to fill and wash with hot water, then later on switch the hose to the cold tap for the rinses. You might have to use the lowest temps though, so the sensors don't try to switch on the heater.
 
Energiesparen

Is indeed "Energy Savings" programme.

AEG has offered it for some time, as my OKO-Lavamat W88840 has same cycle as well. Wrote about it at the time in a thread about my (then) new machine.

Basically cycle is supposed to give 140F wash results but using less energy. Does this by using less water (recirculating jet sees heavy use) during wash and taking ages (about two hours for the wash IIRC). Only did it the once to see what there was; then that was that. Suppose if one were wanting to do a wash overnight or otherwise didn't need the machine for several hours....

Thank you for suggestions regarding hot tap water. Have done that with the OKO-Lavamat say for laundry that was pre-soaked prior, thus didn't need a "profile" wash. Have a stash of AEG/Electrolux service manuals so am studying to see if these newer machines will have it; that is simply not turn on heater and get on with things if water temp is sensed to be within range (or over) whatever is desired already.
 
AEG “Energy saving programme

Energy saving runs at 67 degrees, but with a longer programme length to give the same results as a 95 degree boilwash whilst using less energy.

Earlier versions had a position on the timer and/or an energy saving button you would select alongside ‘E’ on the temperature dial. Later electronic machines such as this one had a separate position on the dial.
 
Energiesparen is indeed an energy savings programme. Older machines had them too, but those were meant for doing boil washes at 140F. With those the energy cycle was between the 95C and 60C programmes on the dial. Newer machines have this one which is intended to do a 140F cycle on a lower temperature or do it with only once the 140F being reached instead of maintained at that level. YMMV depending on the machine.
 
Thanks for the explanations.

I remember when mum's hot & cold fill Hoover Electronic 1100 stopped heating the water due to a broken heater, it ran forever on the heating portion of the programmer on 'Non-Fast Coloureds @ 40°'. I managed to fool it by shutting off the cold tap as it filled, using hot water only. This allowed the thermostats to advance the timer accordingly. The heater got replaced not long after.
 
Rather than using a full-on converter

Can you not swap out the heating element for one suited to US voltages and use a smaller converter to run the rest of the show?

I saw a Miele W3033 innards on this site. Thats how they seemed to get around the issue. A smaller transformer and I am guessing a lower resistance heating element. (Someone is BOUND to correct me)
 
The PCB and pumps are still 240V.

You'd have to completly rewire everything with converter powering the main machine, then take a relay that is switched by 240V but only switches 110V (which most likely dosen't exist), find a heater that fits the machine and runs on 110V, then wire it up, and you'd still need 2 sockets to run it.

A bought transformer is safer, especially considering one rents and does not own property...
 
Morning All!

@richnz

After spending more hours than planned pouring over AEG/Electrolux service manuals one thing is clear; for these modern washers it seems everything is run off the PCB. Hence machine throwing error codes at once if there is any difference then set current specs and what machine detects.

Without the heaters machine uses very little power. But since there isn't away to turn that function off (no tap cold wash cycle outside of one *delicate*) for wash cycles.....

Electrolux does produce model series of washers that do allow for *cold* water (no heater) for other markets (Inspire seems to be one). Suppose one might create a "FrankenAEG" by swapping PCB board, controls, panel and so forth but who knows, PCB may still want 50hz.

Again what one needs to do in not uncommon and happens all the time from industry to domestic households. It just comes down to cost. There are no shortage of frequency converters of various sorts, some will even transform current. Just that once you start going > 1kw things become both dear in cost and larger in size.

Am in no huge rush, it's not as if one is in any danger of being forced to use local laundromat. *LOL* Will find a spot to shove the AEG into until things can be sorted.

While obviously cannot help thinking at this point "if only..." had nabbed the other older AEG, all this wouldn't be necessary. But then a forty year old European washing machine likely would present its own issues sooner or later, what happens then? *LOL*
 
Frequency

Not sure if frequency wouold matter to much.

The motor is a brush based commutator setup, so no issues there.
The PCB produces its own DC supply, so a full bridge rectifier most likely, thus not frequency dependent.
The heater and valves dont really care either.
The pump(s) would run 20% faster, but that shouldn't be detremental either.

But a transformer is costly, that is true.

As a form of trickery, you could try to connect a fixed value resistor instead of the NTC.
The service manual should list values for specific temperatures.
You would have to settle for specific temperature then, which would make numerous cycles unusable, but if you'd go for 40C, you could at least still use the main cycles.
Not sure though if the PCB wouldn't act up, along the lines of "why are the rinses warm?"...
 
Frequency

Am in agreement that frequency probably doesn't matter much to some parts of washer; but Electrolux in its infinite wisdom won't let consumers find out. *LOL*

PCB is so wired that if current is off, machine won't even get out of starting box.

Unlike Miele where there might be codes buried some where in programming to get around this; Electrolux made no such provisions. Am afraid trying to force issue will fry the PCB, then will have to seek out a replacement from Europe.

If one knew what one were doing exactly it might not be a huge matter to swap out the PCB and control panel to something more amenable. Eddy up in Canada has an older AEG washer (7000 series) that was brought from Europe and it works happily on North American 60hz current). Thus assume this "frequency/current protection" system is of a recent vintage.
 
If only!

Have never seen a Miele toplader in North America, and I've been looking for ages.

In the end not sure wouldn't end up in same situation. Miele does not sell toplader washers outside of Europe IIRC, and the things are 230v-240v at 50hz *period*.
 
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