Believe so, see pictures above. It might be the crusted over port with small slats.
Introducing The AEG 46200 TopLader
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AEG “Energy saving programme
Energy saving runs at 67 degrees, but with a longer programme length to give the same results as a 95 degree boilwash whilst using less energy.
Earlier versions had a position on the timer and/or an energy saving button you would select alongside ‘E’ on the temperature dial. Later electronic machines such as this one had a separate position on the dial.
Energy saving runs at 67 degrees, but with a longer programme length to give the same results as a 95 degree boilwash whilst using less energy.
Earlier versions had a position on the timer and/or an energy saving button you would select alongside ‘E’ on the temperature dial. Later electronic machines such as this one had a separate position on the dial.
Energiesparen is indeed an energy savings programme. Older machines had them too, but those were meant for doing boil washes at 140F. With those the energy cycle was between the 95C and 60C programmes on the dial. Newer machines have this one which is intended to do a 140F cycle on a lower temperature or do it with only once the 140F being reached instead of maintained at that level. YMMV depending on the machine.
rolls_rapide
Well-known member
Thanks for the explanations.
I remember when mum's hot & cold fill Hoover Electronic 1100 stopped heating the water due to a broken heater, it ran forever on the heating portion of the programmer on 'Non-Fast Coloureds @ 40°'. I managed to fool it by shutting off the cold tap as it filled, using hot water only. This allowed the thermostats to advance the timer accordingly. The heater got replaced not long after.
I remember when mum's hot & cold fill Hoover Electronic 1100 stopped heating the water due to a broken heater, it ran forever on the heating portion of the programmer on 'Non-Fast Coloureds @ 40°'. I managed to fool it by shutting off the cold tap as it filled, using hot water only. This allowed the thermostats to advance the timer accordingly. The heater got replaced not long after.
richnz
Well-known member
Rather than using a full-on converter
Can you not swap out the heating element for one suited to US voltages and use a smaller converter to run the rest of the show?
I saw a Miele W3033 innards on this site. Thats how they seemed to get around the issue. A smaller transformer and I am guessing a lower resistance heating element. (Someone is BOUND to correct me)
Can you not swap out the heating element for one suited to US voltages and use a smaller converter to run the rest of the show?
I saw a Miele W3033 innards on this site. Thats how they seemed to get around the issue. A smaller transformer and I am guessing a lower resistance heating element. (Someone is BOUND to correct me)
The PCB and pumps are still 240V.
You'd have to completly rewire everything with converter powering the main machine, then take a relay that is switched by 240V but only switches 110V (which most likely dosen't exist), find a heater that fits the machine and runs on 110V, then wire it up, and you'd still need 2 sockets to run it.
A bought transformer is safer, especially considering one rents and does not own property...
You'd have to completly rewire everything with converter powering the main machine, then take a relay that is switched by 240V but only switches 110V (which most likely dosen't exist), find a heater that fits the machine and runs on 110V, then wire it up, and you'd still need 2 sockets to run it.
A bought transformer is safer, especially considering one rents and does not own property...
Morning All!
@richnz
After spending more hours than planned pouring over AEG/Electrolux service manuals one thing is clear; for these modern washers it seems everything is run off the PCB. Hence machine throwing error codes at once if there is any difference then set current specs and what machine detects.
Without the heaters machine uses very little power. But since there isn't away to turn that function off (no tap cold wash cycle outside of one *delicate*) for wash cycles.....
Electrolux does produce model series of washers that do allow for *cold* water (no heater) for other markets (Inspire seems to be one). Suppose one might create a "FrankenAEG" by swapping PCB board, controls, panel and so forth but who knows, PCB may still want 50hz.
Again what one needs to do in not uncommon and happens all the time from industry to domestic households. It just comes down to cost. There are no shortage of frequency converters of various sorts, some will even transform current. Just that once you start going > 1kw things become both dear in cost and larger in size.
Am in no huge rush, it's not as if one is in any danger of being forced to use local laundromat. *LOL* Will find a spot to shove the AEG into until things can be sorted.
While obviously cannot help thinking at this point "if only..." had nabbed the other older AEG, all this wouldn't be necessary. But then a forty year old European washing machine likely would present its own issues sooner or later, what happens then? *LOL*
@richnz
After spending more hours than planned pouring over AEG/Electrolux service manuals one thing is clear; for these modern washers it seems everything is run off the PCB. Hence machine throwing error codes at once if there is any difference then set current specs and what machine detects.
Without the heaters machine uses very little power. But since there isn't away to turn that function off (no tap cold wash cycle outside of one *delicate*) for wash cycles.....
Electrolux does produce model series of washers that do allow for *cold* water (no heater) for other markets (Inspire seems to be one). Suppose one might create a "FrankenAEG" by swapping PCB board, controls, panel and so forth but who knows, PCB may still want 50hz.
Again what one needs to do in not uncommon and happens all the time from industry to domestic households. It just comes down to cost. There are no shortage of frequency converters of various sorts, some will even transform current. Just that once you start going > 1kw things become both dear in cost and larger in size.
Am in no huge rush, it's not as if one is in any danger of being forced to use local laundromat. *LOL* Will find a spot to shove the AEG into until things can be sorted.
While obviously cannot help thinking at this point "if only..." had nabbed the other older AEG, all this wouldn't be necessary. But then a forty year old European washing machine likely would present its own issues sooner or later, what happens then? *LOL*
Frequency
Not sure if frequency wouold matter to much.
The motor is a brush based commutator setup, so no issues there.
The PCB produces its own DC supply, so a full bridge rectifier most likely, thus not frequency dependent.
The heater and valves dont really care either.
The pump(s) would run 20% faster, but that shouldn't be detremental either.
But a transformer is costly, that is true.
As a form of trickery, you could try to connect a fixed value resistor instead of the NTC.
The service manual should list values for specific temperatures.
You would have to settle for specific temperature then, which would make numerous cycles unusable, but if you'd go for 40C, you could at least still use the main cycles.
Not sure though if the PCB wouldn't act up, along the lines of "why are the rinses warm?"...
Not sure if frequency wouold matter to much.
The motor is a brush based commutator setup, so no issues there.
The PCB produces its own DC supply, so a full bridge rectifier most likely, thus not frequency dependent.
The heater and valves dont really care either.
The pump(s) would run 20% faster, but that shouldn't be detremental either.
But a transformer is costly, that is true.
As a form of trickery, you could try to connect a fixed value resistor instead of the NTC.
The service manual should list values for specific temperatures.
You would have to settle for specific temperature then, which would make numerous cycles unusable, but if you'd go for 40C, you could at least still use the main cycles.
Not sure though if the PCB wouldn't act up, along the lines of "why are the rinses warm?"...
Frequency
Am in agreement that frequency probably doesn't matter much to some parts of washer; but Electrolux in its infinite wisdom won't let consumers find out. *LOL*
PCB is so wired that if current is off, machine won't even get out of starting box.
Unlike Miele where there might be codes buried some where in programming to get around this; Electrolux made no such provisions. Am afraid trying to force issue will fry the PCB, then will have to seek out a replacement from Europe.
If one knew what one were doing exactly it might not be a huge matter to swap out the PCB and control panel to something more amenable. Eddy up in Canada has an older AEG washer (7000 series) that was brought from Europe and it works happily on North American 60hz current). Thus assume this "frequency/current protection" system is of a recent vintage.
Am in agreement that frequency probably doesn't matter much to some parts of washer; but Electrolux in its infinite wisdom won't let consumers find out. *LOL*
PCB is so wired that if current is off, machine won't even get out of starting box.
Unlike Miele where there might be codes buried some where in programming to get around this; Electrolux made no such provisions. Am afraid trying to force issue will fry the PCB, then will have to seek out a replacement from Europe.
If one knew what one were doing exactly it might not be a huge matter to swap out the PCB and control panel to something more amenable. Eddy up in Canada has an older AEG washer (7000 series) that was brought from Europe and it works happily on North American 60hz current). Thus assume this "frequency/current protection" system is of a recent vintage.
wft2800
Well-known member
Could you try and get rid of this in favour of a Miele W174 or similar that'll let you fiddle about?
If only!
Have never seen a Miele toplader in North America, and I've been looking for ages.
In the end not sure wouldn't end up in same situation. Miele does not sell toplader washers outside of Europe IIRC, and the things are 230v-240v at 50hz *period*.
Have never seen a Miele toplader in North America, and I've been looking for ages.
In the end not sure wouldn't end up in same situation. Miele does not sell toplader washers outside of Europe IIRC, and the things are 230v-240v at 50hz *period*.
From what I've found online so far, it appears your new machine uses 2300 watts.
Technische Daten
ABMESSUNGEN <span class="ls9d">Höhe 850 mm
</span>
Breite 400 mm
Tiefe 600 mm
SPANNUNG / FREQUENZ
GESAMTLEISTUNGSAUFNAHME 230 V / 50 Hz 2300 W
WASSERDRUCK
Anschluss an die
Wasserversorgung
Minimum
Maximum
0,05 MPa (0,5 bar)
0,8 MPa (8 bars)
Typ 20x27
Dieses Gerät entspricht der Richtlinie<span class="ls2 ws15f"> 89/336/EWG zur elektromagnetischen</span>
Verträglichkeit sowie der Nieder<span class="ls76 ws161">spannungsrichtlinie 73/23/EWG</span>
What about something like this?? It says it is step up/step down 120V/240V 50/60hz. But if the 1.5 multiplier is used, may need to go on to a 5000 watt which is here
I don't know how reliable these would be but there they are.
Technische Daten
ABMESSUNGEN <span class="ls9d">Höhe 850 mm
</span>
Breite 400 mm
Tiefe 600 mm
SPANNUNG / FREQUENZ
GESAMTLEISTUNGSAUFNAHME 230 V / 50 Hz 2300 W
WASSERDRUCK
Anschluss an die
Wasserversorgung
Minimum
Maximum
0,05 MPa (0,5 bar)
0,8 MPa (8 bars)
Typ 20x27
Dieses Gerät entspricht der Richtlinie<span class="ls2 ws15f"> 89/336/EWG zur elektromagnetischen</span>
Verträglichkeit sowie der Nieder<span class="ls76 ws161">spannungsrichtlinie 73/23/EWG</span>
What about something like this?? It says it is step up/step down 120V/240V 50/60hz. But if the 1.5 multiplier is used, may need to go on to a 5000 watt which is here
I don't know how reliable these would be but there they are.
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Greg, that seems to only change the voltage -- Launderess seems to have access to 240V, what she needs is to go from 60Hz to 50Hz.
There are frequency transformers that are electronic and probably expensive, because they depend on solid state electronics that are rather spendy. In the past, what people would often do is to use an electric motor, a small transmission (often a belt and pulleys) and an alternator that would output 50 Hz. Still not cheap if bought new, but it might be possible to find something that someone has lying around unused and wants to get rid of for a small amount or even for free just to get the space/room back. It will definitely make more noise and generate some additional heat compared to the electronic versions, but on the positive side (no pun intended), at least it will have a good sinusoidal wave that will make the washer work well, many electronic converters will generate a wave that is more squarish and that can work poorly with washers that expect to be connected to the mains.
Another suggestion that might or might not work -- try to search for a Uninterruptible Power Supply that accepts 240V/60Hz and outputs 240V/50Hz, people might have some they are trying to get rid of, now that most computers have a universal power supply, and that might be cheaper than equipment people think they can charge a lot because folks "need it" and thus need to get separated from their money.
Good luck!
There are frequency transformers that are electronic and probably expensive, because they depend on solid state electronics that are rather spendy. In the past, what people would often do is to use an electric motor, a small transmission (often a belt and pulleys) and an alternator that would output 50 Hz. Still not cheap if bought new, but it might be possible to find something that someone has lying around unused and wants to get rid of for a small amount or even for free just to get the space/room back. It will definitely make more noise and generate some additional heat compared to the electronic versions, but on the positive side (no pun intended), at least it will have a good sinusoidal wave that will make the washer work well, many electronic converters will generate a wave that is more squarish and that can work poorly with washers that expect to be connected to the mains.
Another suggestion that might or might not work -- try to search for a Uninterruptible Power Supply that accepts 240V/60Hz and outputs 240V/50Hz, people might have some they are trying to get rid of, now that most computers have a universal power supply, and that might be cheaper than equipment people think they can charge a lot because folks "need it" and thus need to get separated from their money.
Good luck!
yeah, looking at it I think you are correct...Hz in = Hz out, only V changed.
As we discussed
Frequency shouldn't matter, certanly won't fry anything.
Frequency shouldn't matter, certanly won't fry anything.
richnz
Well-known member
Scrap what I said
Yes, all the power flows through the PCB and there is no external heating relay. If that was the case then transformer for the motor, solenoids and pump but USA mains voltage for the heating would be the cheapest way to go.
Sigh.
So close but so far!
I do hope you find a Miele toplader. Conversion of that to USA power would be simpler.
Yes, all the power flows through the PCB and there is no external heating relay. If that was the case then transformer for the motor, solenoids and pump but USA mains voltage for the heating would be the cheapest way to go.
Sigh.
So close but so far!
I do hope you find a Miele toplader. Conversion of that to USA power would be simpler.
Thanks all to pieces for suggestions/tips guys.
Please keep them coming.
@askolover - Watts and voltage we have, it is the pesky 50hz frequency requirement that is holding up the convoy.
@earthling177 - UPS idea is an interesting one, but don't believe even the most robust of such devices can handle motors. The start capacity is usually culprit IIRC.
@henene - Am in total agreement, however in their infinite wisdom Electrolux believes differently. Shan't ever know nor get to find out how machine behaves on 60hz as the blasted PCB simply won't play ball.
Browsing through Electrolux/AEG service manuals last night was wondering if a simple PCB swap would work. That is find a control board from before this modern incarnation with strict frequency requirements. Again we know members have purchased AEG units before that found their way to North American, and they ran perfectly fine on 60hz.
Of course what one would have to do in such a situation is basically decapitate current control fascia/board/PCB and swap it with something else. In short again creating a "FrakenLavamat". This could be hampered if connections for a start don't match.
@richnz - Pity isn't it? But again am in no particular rush, so have time to find a solution. However it is increasingly looking as if one will have to nab a frequency converter large enough to provide the 2.3kW wanted.
Unless one can find a way round the heaters coming on (which would instantly fry an under powered FC), that does seem to be the only way to go.
Who knows, may grow weary of this particular whim and fancy; then could mark-up the machine and sell it on! *LOL*
For someone with access to a generator it will work fine. But zoning and other regulations frown upon such things being used in close confined quarters. *LOL*
Please keep them coming.
@askolover - Watts and voltage we have, it is the pesky 50hz frequency requirement that is holding up the convoy.
@earthling177 - UPS idea is an interesting one, but don't believe even the most robust of such devices can handle motors. The start capacity is usually culprit IIRC.
@henene - Am in total agreement, however in their infinite wisdom Electrolux believes differently. Shan't ever know nor get to find out how machine behaves on 60hz as the blasted PCB simply won't play ball.
Browsing through Electrolux/AEG service manuals last night was wondering if a simple PCB swap would work. That is find a control board from before this modern incarnation with strict frequency requirements. Again we know members have purchased AEG units before that found their way to North American, and they ran perfectly fine on 60hz.
Of course what one would have to do in such a situation is basically decapitate current control fascia/board/PCB and swap it with something else. In short again creating a "FrakenLavamat". This could be hampered if connections for a start don't match.
@richnz - Pity isn't it? But again am in no particular rush, so have time to find a solution. However it is increasingly looking as if one will have to nab a frequency converter large enough to provide the 2.3kW wanted.
Unless one can find a way round the heaters coming on (which would instantly fry an under powered FC), that does seem to be the only way to go.
Who knows, may grow weary of this particular whim and fancy; then could mark-up the machine and sell it on! *LOL*
For someone with access to a generator it will work fine. But zoning and other regulations frown upon such things being used in close confined quarters. *LOL*
Perhaps I missed something, but isn't it possible that the board is actually broken and that being the reason for not working?
Hello Louis
Board is fine, that is why it is giving said code.
When code is given one is at first instructed to contact local power company to inquire about any issues that might be causing frequency changes. If there are, one must wait until they clear/have been fixed. OTOH if power from outlet is fine, then yes the board should be changed.
Previous owner was rather indignant (putting it mildly) when inquired about the code and reminded that machine was being offered as functioning properly.
Wasn't called outright a daft cow, but gist of things were what part of the advert didn't one understand (about generator being throttled down to 3000 from 3600), and unit worked fine. Was also reminded that out of gate one was asked "how are you going to power this?). That was me sorted!
Searched archives and another member from Canada had same exact problem. He turfed the Electrolux machine to local tip. http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?37593
In my research came upon several others who brought back AEG washing machines from Europe, only to have same issues. They reached out to AEG North America (in Canada) was told what has been stated above. Motor, drain pump, electronics, door lock, etc... all would need to be replaced. Furthermore out of liability issues AEG North America would not furnish parts nor provide service. In other words, "tough cheddar".
Board is fine, that is why it is giving said code.
When code is given one is at first instructed to contact local power company to inquire about any issues that might be causing frequency changes. If there are, one must wait until they clear/have been fixed. OTOH if power from outlet is fine, then yes the board should be changed.
Previous owner was rather indignant (putting it mildly) when inquired about the code and reminded that machine was being offered as functioning properly.
Wasn't called outright a daft cow, but gist of things were what part of the advert didn't one understand (about generator being throttled down to 3000 from 3600), and unit worked fine. Was also reminded that out of gate one was asked "how are you going to power this?). That was me sorted!
Searched archives and another member from Canada had same exact problem. He turfed the Electrolux machine to local tip. http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?37593
In my research came upon several others who brought back AEG washing machines from Europe, only to have same issues. They reached out to AEG North America (in Canada) was told what has been stated above. Motor, drain pump, electronics, door lock, etc... all would need to be replaced. Furthermore out of liability issues AEG North America would not furnish parts nor provide service. In other words, "tough cheddar".
Ah, yes, I remember that thread. Thanks for clearing that up.
