Is my washer healthy? (cycle video linked)

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aeg

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Apr 11, 2022
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Hello washer aficionados,

I've linked a video of my washer running an empty load on the small load size setting and the normal cycle (with the lid switch bypassed, of course). It's a BOL Whirlpool direct drive, Roper model RTW4440VQ2 made in 2010. Does it look like everything's working right?

 
Reply #1

I don’t think the neutral drain has failed, the direct drives will slip into spin if it hasn’t ran for awhile since the oil is thick or has ran on a short cycle time since it didn’t get the chance to fully warm and have the oil circulate around.
 
 
Documentation says (italics and brackets mine):

  - The gearcase will always provide direct into spin without draining first, except when reset during a brief three-to-five-second agitation period.

  - The first ten revolutions [clockwise/agitation] of the main drive gear [to which the neutral drain mechanism is mounted] will cause the mechanism to reset for neutral drain.

Temperature is normally not a factor.

There is much mystery regarding functioning of the neutral drain mechanism.  I have pondered repeatedly on how to visually demonstrate neutral drain function on an open transmission but it seems impossible being that the mechanism involved is under the spin gear and not visible.
 
Thanks for all the responses!

If I understand correctly, the tub should stand still while draining, but I'm getting an extra spin cycle instead. So I need to replace the neutral drain kit.

Does it look like everything else is working OK? Is the level of vibration during spin normal?
 
 
Neutral drain, of course, is intended to function properly but failure of it doesn't cause a huge problem.  Considering how many of these washers exist, there surely are thousands of them operating every day with failed neutral drain and the users are oblivious to it.

Many argue that spin-drain is better for eliminating depositing of lint onto the clothes as the water receeds ... but one of the reasons Whirlpool went to the trouble of developing neutral drain a few years into direct-drive production is due to complaints from consumers of the original spin-drain design causing lint residue on the clothes

Spin-drain can also cause an increase in out-of-balance spin incidents.  Floating clothes may bunch together, especially if the fill level is too high for the load size.  Neutral drain allows the load distributed by agitation to settle down stationary to the base of the basket before spin begins.

The tub oscillation during spin is normal.  Your video has no sound so there's no way to determine if any unhealthy noises are occurring.
 
I never knew that WP went to neutral drain because of those reasons. I always would be bummed out when I saw a neutral drain...Didn't all the original Maytag TL's do spin drains...and I know GM Frigidaire's did.. I don't ever remember balance issues with my grandma's...but I see how that could happen. Personally, I felt spin drains were better...but that's just me...but if the machine isn't operating properly and spin draining when it's not supposed to....well...probably not good.
 
I'm going to replace the neutral drain kit to get it back to manufacturer intended operation.

I figure since the clutch is 12 years old and it's been incurring extra wear from the spin drain, I ought to replace that also, either with a Whirlpool part or something else. Does anyone have opinions on the Choice Manufactured Parts aftermarket 6-pad clutch (equivalent to Whirlpool #8299642) as a potential upgrade to the stock 3-pad clutch? Is it better than the genuine Whirlpool 3-pad clutch or is it knockoff junk? Will it fit my machine? My washer is 3.2 cu ft capacity. The original clutch is #3951311 superseded by #285785. Whirlpool 6-pad clutch is out of the question ($$).
 

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