Is my wringer motor running too hot?

[anothertim]

I have a Maytag E2 wringer; I'm wondering how warm/hot the electrical motor should feel after it has been running for about 5 minutes or so? I know it's risky to put your hand under the washer when running due to the possibility of getting caught in the belt. So, I put my hand on the motor casing at the end that is opposite the pulley. The motor is running pretty hot.

There's more to the story. This is a brand new motor.

Here's what happened to the old one: when I first got the wringer and started it, I failed to check the motor for mud-daubers. Sure enough they had cemented the motor so that it wouldn't turn. So, smoke came pouring out! I disassembled it and spray painted the windings with engine enamel. That seemed to restore it for several years.

At that time we were living off-the-grid. Our generator put out poor power, and so sometimes the motor would stall and overheat when trying to start. Consequently, even more damage was done, though it continued to function. After we moved to a less-isolated location with normal mains power it continued chugging along for a few more years. Finally, a few days ago it got plugged into an extension cord that was corroded. So, with bad voltage being supplied, this time the old motor finally burned up. The windings are too far gone to be repaired again.

Following some advice on another forum, I replaced the old motor with a new one – a U.S. Motors (made in Mexico) ½ H.P., 1725 R.P.M., Automatic Reset Thermal Overload Protected one, purchased from Rural King. I replaced the new motor's bracket with the one from my Maytag, and it spun up fine.

After a few minutes with a load of wash, however, we noticed a unsettling odor. Not burning, just something hot – like paint. My wife described it as a new-car smell. It put my hand on the motor and it was hot. Not too hot to keep my hand there, but uncomfortable.

I don't remember ever testing a wringer motor like this before, so I don't know if the heat is normal.

We went ahead anyway, did a full load of laundry, with two rinses, and the motor kept working. It is, after all, supposed to be “thermally overload protected.” But considering how poorly made so many things are these days, I'm a little nervous.

I'm hoping all is okay, and that eventually the new-car odor will “bake” away.

Anyway, I guess my basic question is: How warm should a properly functioning motor be for one of these wringers?

 

[arbilab]

"Uncomfortable" after "a few minutes" does sound like it's working a bit hard. How "uncomfortable" was it after doing the whole load?

Motors can be hot enough to make you let go of it pretty much right away and still be operating normally. Upwards of 150F. Vented motors really start cooling themselves when they get really hot. This one is vented, right?

Well actually, sealed motors do that too, but the case size for a given rating will be higher to provide radiating surface area. Washer motors tend to be vented because 1) they tend to be compact and 2) there's no reason not to vent them.

Above are generalizations based on a wide range of motors and other electrical devices. But not specific to your machine.

 

[anothertim]

Rick,

Thanks for the useful information.

To answer your questions: Yes the motor is vented. I'm not sure how uncomfortable it got. I just remember that I didn't want to keep my hand on it. At the time, I was a little nonplussed because I was afraid it was overheating. I'll have to try it again when we do another wash in a few days. The next time I'll try to feel it several times, including right when the load is done. I'll also try to take a temperature reading.

It does use up to 8 amps, so that's about a thousand watts. So, I guess it might be expected to get a little warm.

I think the original motor was only about 1/3 H.P. (missing the spec plate). The replacement motor I chose was the only one that had the right dimensions combined with the correct R.P.M. I also figured that going up to the ½ H.P. might make it work less hard than the old one.

I guess if someone out there could test their own and see what it feels like, that would be helpful. Just stay away from the belt!

 

[combo52]

Wringer Washer Motor Running Temperature

It is normal for these type motors to get uncomfortably warm after running a while, generally too warm to keep your bare hand on.

 

The replacement 1/2HP motor will run hotter and use more power than the orignal 1/3 HP motor and it will return no benefit to the operation of the washer, this washer simply does not need a 1/2HP motor. [ but it should work OK ]

 

The hot paint smell is normal, it will become less noticeable after the motor runs and works 10-20 hours.

 

The only concern I would have is if the motor cuts off after running for a few hours on its overload.  You can check the voltage at the motor with the motor running, it should be at least 105 volts minimum, 120 is normal, you can also check the Amp draw while running, it differently should not go over the mane plate ratting of 8 Amps and probably should be an amp or two less.

 

John L.

 

[tolivac]

If the replacement motor uses a higher "class" insulation it will run hotter than the old one due to changes in winding insulation technology.Its strange-but many new motors do run normally hot enough not to touch comfortably.Do you have access to an AC ammeter-You can use this to see if the motor is drawing too much power if the transmission is loading the motor down too much.If so you should hear the motor laboring-or it has a hard time starting.New motors may also have a "break-in" period when traces of chemicals used in the insulation and paint on the motor case finally leech out from the heat generated from the motor operating.

 

[arbilab]

Understood. Add to that, your 'uncomfortable' and mine could be off by >15*. I have thick skin and groped a lot of motors, transformers, heatsinks.

See above about voltage. Unlike heaters which produce much less heat on reduced voltage, motors produce MORE. Inadvisable to operate on 'standard household' extension cord.

You're right to be cautious but if that motor was in danger I think you would have used a different adjective than 'uncomfortable'. Keep monitoring.

 

[anothertim]

John, Rex, and Rick

I had to use the ½ H.P. instead of the 1/3 because the 1/3 was too small to fit the wringer's bracket. Also thought the extra power might help the old gearbox. The seal is leaking, so I have to worry about the rust in the gearbox. Will be replacing the seal soon, if the new motor holds up.

I do have an AC amp-meter, so I'll check how much it draws next time it's in use (soon). Will also check the voltage. I have the motor directly connected to the wall socket through about 25 feet of 14 GA wire. So I don't think the voltage drop will bring it down as low as 105. If the motor ever does cut out on overload, then I guess I'll have a problem (add that to the long list!)

It doesn't have any trouble starting, but the old one did when using a generator. We usually start it with water in the tub and then slowly add clothes as it agitates.

Glad to hear that the hot paint smell will diminish with time. It's an unpleasant odor, and was a worry until I learned from you folks that it is normal at first.

Interesting information about the higher class insulation running hotter – never heard that before.

I'll post again after I run another test, and try to have a objective temperature reading instead of a subjective reading like “uncomfortable.”

Thanks to all you guys for the knowledgeable help.

Tim

 

[e2l-arry]

I have a 1964 model E2LP

And I just used it for about 90 minutes. When I was done I gave it the hot motor test. I'd never checked that before. So, it was hot, I could hold my hand against it for about 5 to 10 seconds before it was so hot I had to remove my hand. Given that I think I have a fairly typical machine, and it has the original Westinghouse motor, that what you're experiencing with your "hot" motor, is normal.

Have Fun!

Larry