I've been very bad!

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Score at 0500 - Launderess - 1, Maytag Wringer Washer - 0

Before shoving the wringer away into some spot to make room for moving about decided to sort out the stuck agitator.

First attempt was with several kettles of boiling water, allowed to sit, agitage a bit, sit more, then pumped out. By the way, why didn't you lot warn about the pump on these machines? Have never seen such a forceful purge of water. The fact in this case it was boiling hot and was aiming for a wash tub didn't help.

Anyway it did nothing; the darn thing still wouldn't budge. So back to the archives one went in search of aid. Tried the method described in this post several times: http://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?47755

First few times various cords used snapped. The final attempt when couldn't move the broom handle anymore, one good shove caused that cord to go as well.

By now it is 3AM and one is not only ticked off but getting sleepy. So back to square one.

Got the machine nearest to the kitchen sink as possible (in a new revelation the drain hose is on opposite side from sink and will not reach), and using a washing machine hose filled the wringer wash tub with hot water. A month or so ago the boilers went under annual overhaul, since then we now have instant near boiling water (the GE Mobile Maid is very happy) from the taps.

Let the water sit for one half hour, agitage for about fifteen minutes, then sit another twenty minutes. After using a bucket brigade to drain washer gave things yet another attempt. First pull up; nothing. Grabbed harder and with a bit more force the thing rose partially. Third and final attempt entire agaitator came off cleanly and smoothly.

In the following snaps you'll see just how the tub looked before one dried everything out.

The metal spline shows sings of rust, as does inside the agitator, but nothing serious IMHO. Should one get out some fine grade steel wool and remove the rust from spline? Can see what happened; after final time this unit was used before being decommissioned water was not fully drained and the beater not removed. So the thing rusted in place.

Otherwise things look pretty darn good underneath. Cannot tell if the snap ring wants changing. Am going to leave the agitator off until "wash day" which is as it should. Will have to raid my vanity table for the large jar of Vaseline for now, but will probably pick up a small jar to have near the washer for future use. Wouldn't white lithium grease work better than Vaseline?

In other snaps you'll see various parts of the machine and their condition. The two front legs show lots of scrapes and marks. These will need sorting before they begin to seriously rust. Know can use rubbing compound for smaller marks/scratches, but think this is beyond that.

Since the machine will not fit into/near kitchen sink am going to purchase a washing machine hose with extension coupler. If Mohammed won't go to the mountain...

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Well

the one I live with thinks we all should be in Bellvue. Not everyone likes appliances or any mechanical machines, or cares how they work. Let alone vintage ones.
So I win, because I not only got to repair them, but also choose which to buy.
Cars as well.
Life is about compromise and an occasional concession.
 
Glad you were able to free the agitator after no small effort, Launderess. Hope we get to see a few snaps of the Maytag in action!

Question: What is the control or dial-looking thingy on the front of this Maytag? Have not seen one on a 'Tag before.

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Bellevue Hospital

Is still open and is the shining star of the NYC public hospital system. It is the only one most New Yorkers would consider going to, if worse came to the worse.

Beth Israel Hospital is closing so Bellevue along with NYU will be the only two places left on the East Side below 34th Street.
 
Launderess:

Wonderful acquisition on the Maytag.  A good way to do laundry in it would be to wash, wring and toss the load to one of the Germans for a battery of rinsing and extraction.  Also I got my $ 3500 Speed Queen purchase past the SO by proving they are worth it.  It should be no problem to prove that that fine piece of Iowa engineering is worth the price paid.

WK78
 
Believe it or not have found rinsing in a tub full of water using my "stomper" device rather effective rinsing. Know this because items placed into one of the German girls afterwards for rinsing gives clear water after the first spin.

Have two hand crank mangles which were fine for smaller items, but large bed and table linen wore one out. It is some trick to keep things evenly fed into the wringer while turning a crank handle. If things aren't spread evenly and or there are bunches the work becomes quite difficult.
 
My mothers system was wring into the rinse tub after washing, stsrt second load, wring backwards, so I had to catch the wash as a kid, then rinse and repeat the next load. Big stuff always gets jammed in the wringer. But it is still quicker than any new automatic today, That is except those of us that have real good vintage ones.
 
Saving grace of the Maytag wringer washers

Is their balloon rollers and self adjusting tension.

With hand cranked wringers even leaving the tension fully slacked still does not allow some thick items to go through easily if at all. Ditto for wringer washing machines where you set the roller tension.

According to my MT wringer service manual the only way to increase tension for the rollers is to swap out a few parts.

Ideally what one would love is to have a Maytag wringer for washing (that square tub Gyrofoam action) and a Bock type extractor or at least one with a bit wider opening, and larger capacity than typical domestic spin dryers. Such set would be like the Unimac UM 202
 
Hi Dear

Guess we should have told you about the pump! LOL
I'm sure you've got the hang of things by now, and have taken care of the bits of rust.
Have your had you maiden voyage with her yet?
 
Hi Stan!

No, no maiden wash just yet, need to get the old girl sorted first. Mustn't rush these sort of things. *LOL*

Yes, between the strong action of pump and the large/wide hose Maytag wringer washers seem to empty that 18 gallons of water rather quickly. Faster than any automatic it seems.

Ordered some Maycor center seal grease to lube the agitator spline and various points on the wringer as noted by the service manual. Also want to take the top of wringer off and before lubricating clean out the gunk and filth that has acclimated. Also am planning to lubricate the wringer shaft as well.

On another note finally got around to looking underneath and while all seems well (but then again don't really know anything from anything), there is a trace of oil along the center post down the left rear leg. This looks to be old and congealed so don't know if there was a leak at some point, and or perhaps the machine was laid down incorrectly at some point and oil leaked out.

Looked at the drain hose connection and it looks simple enough to replace if one wants something longer. As mentioned don't think there is room to move the machine close enough to the sink for draining. However do have an idea using the old "quick connect" hose saved from the Kenmore portable dishwasher before it was chucked.

Am thinking of connecting the drain end of that hose to the gooseneck with a hose clamp. If the connection can withstand the force of water out of pump would allow the machine to remain stationary in a wider open area for use. The other part of said quick-connect hose functions for filling so that is me sorted. At end of wash day can just undo the connection and that will be that. This saves having to accommodate a long drain hose when the Maytag is pushed into tight cubby for storage. Also am working under the IIABDFI (If It Ain't Broke Don't Fix It" theory. That is the drain hose is fine as it is now, but start messing with it and or the pump and who knows what could happen.

Will purchase one of the newer turquoise agitators with the "cup" to help keep water from getting at the seals.
 
Dear

Just A heads up.. when your ready to lubricate the wringer shaft..
I think your speaking of putting a film of oil on the metal pipe that comes out of the bottom of the wringer?
This requires the wringer control handle to be in the "swing" position. (Not neutral)
This also will require you to lift up the wringer assembly as show in your owners manual.
That assembly is very heavy. Please be careful.
 
Looks can be deceiving

While rooting about underneath to check about the motor, spied a bit of tape with writing stuck way up on the skirt. Was impossible to read while in place so managed to get a bit of it off.

Writing is faint because the masking type tape either came into contact with oil or maybe that is how it was back then. Near as can figure out it says something about machine being "returned" after a repair.

The rest is faint and difficult to read handwriting but the gist of things seems to be the old girl was once leaking gear oil and a "gasket" was replaced.

Haven't been able to get pictures yet, but there is a trail of oil along the housing for power bar (from motor to wringer) and down the left rear leg. It is all dried and gunky now, and so far haven't seen any traces of a fresh leak.

To be on the safe side am going to swap out the black agitator for one of the turquoise versions. Supposedly they offer better protection against water seeping down into the seals/gaskets. If the plastic spline makes too much of a "tick-tock" may seek out someone to swap it out for a metal.
 
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