KDI-17

[davey7]

Hi, I've just (more or less) bought an older apartment which came with a Kitchenaid KDI-17. When I was looking at the unit, the selling agent (who lives downstairs) told me that she didn't want an inspector to test it - she was afraid of leaks. I didn't get an inspection since I had a good idea of the condition of the unit, dishwasher being low down on the last of problems, it has copper supply lines, not rubber. Anyways, I moved in and didn't worry about since the dishwasher was bottom of the list.

Anyhow, one day I was doing something in the cabinet above and knocked the handle closed and hadn't realized that it did indeed run and the duct tape was just for show. Needless to say nobody had turned off the dedicated circuit breaker - no one knew about that I suspect. Once I was settled in I tested it and ran well, much quicker than the brand-spanking new Whirlpool in my old apartment, if a heckuva a lot louder.

Is there anything I need to do to keep it running trouble-free? I don't use it very much, just maybe once or at most two times a month when I entertain. And what exactly is the "soak" cycle, a heavy or pot wash? I'd also like to know approximately how old it is, I'm guessing very late 60's or early 70's - the kitchen was redone around 1960 by the first owners who were big cooks (gourmets or foodies I've heard).

 

[rp2813]

The KA experts should be showing up here to provide you with information.

 

There have been a few threads recently re: the 17 series.  You might be able to find out more by plugging "KDI (or KDS) 17" into the "super searchilator" option.

 

KA didn't put an upper wash arm into their machines until the 18 series.  That means you have to be careful about loading the lower rack in order to ensure that the spray action to the upper rack isn't blocked by large items.

 

[toploader55]

Tricky Loading

I have 3 of the Machines of that time.

They are great, but it's all about the loading. You cannot Load the Lower Rack with out making sure the Upper Rack will get wash action from the One and Only Lower Wash Arm.

This is why we refer them to as the "One Arm Wonder".

 

[varicyclevoice]

age of unit

Hey,

You have an excellent machine there! It is a KDI-17 which was made between 1971-1974. The Soak Cycle is a cycle for more heavily soiled dishes. It does in fact have a soak period. Keep in mind that the dishwasher NEVER completely fills. It will just circulate the wash water and then dwell for a bit to let the detergent work on the food soil before continuing the cycle.

If you are interested in the use and care manual...I have one that I can scan for you and send digitally.

Thanks. [email protected]

Todd

 

[DADoES]

 

All cycles on this machine begin with a 1/2-fill (1 minute) and drain to clear the supply line of standing cold water.

 

Soak fills for the prewash, sprays a minute or two, then pauses for 13 minutes for the "soak" function.  Continues with drain, prerinse, main wash, two rinses, dry.

 

Full Cycle is the same basic sequence as Soak, but continues to spray for 3 or 4 mins as a prewash instead of pausing for soak.

 

The 13-min Soak pause is enabled by a intermittent sequencer that pulses the timer on/off to lengthen what would otherwise be the prewash.

 

Rinse/Hold runs the line purge, fills for prewash, sprays a minute, pauses for 2 or 3 mins (during what would otherwise be either the prewash or the soak period), then drains.  The timer advances to off in "real time" but no other functions occur.  If desired, raise the handle and manually advance the timer to Off.

 

Note that the timer will (should) lock at Off after it makes a complete revolution.  The handle must be raised to reset/unlock it to run another cycle.

 

Regarding the warning about items in the lower rack blocking spray to the top, that is true ... but with practice and care, one learns how to load shallow pans and baking dishes around the back and sides of the lower rack and still get good spray through to the top.

 

[cyclemonitor]

does this help

17 series

 

[davey7]

Thanks for the responses guys!

 

[davey7]

Soooo - sorry to bump my old thread....

So in looking at something else I discovered that my little workhorse has NO insulation whatsoever. Is this something I can add, either fiberglass or rockwool or something. And what, if anything, should I keep from being blocked?

Some pictures from the cabinet to the side below.

 

[steved]

Auto supply

I use Heat Shield sound deadening mat.  It has an adhesive side, foam and a foil side. I bought it on eBay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/265838375910

 

[davey7]

Thanks! That sounds like it would be a perfect fit. I'm going to do some electrical work at the box behind the dishwasher so when I pull it I'll see what clearances I have etc.

 

[norgeway]

Dont worry about

Only one wash arm, these absolutely will blast off anything on both racks and the dishes come out DRY!

 

[davey7]

One Armed Imperial (OK, that sounds like your next car)

The Great New Chrysler - is here.

No, I've had the dishwasher like twelve years now (and it's going with me when I move) and it dries like a champ! Once I quiet it down with insulation it'll be even better!

 

[combo52]

Insulation on the KDI 17 dishwasher

It’s a good idea to add as much insulation as you can. If you use the thin automotive stuff, put several layers on to get up to about 3/4 of an inch.

You can also get faced fiberglass insulation, possibly a water heater insulation kit often works well.

Be careful with any insulation not to block the drying blower or insulate too close to it because it gets quite hot.

Insulation will not only make the machine quieter, but will improve the washing performance and you may be able to lower your water temperature a little bit because the heat loss won’t be so fast ,

Show us pictures when you’re done, John

 

[qsd-dan]

I'm pretty sure all of these came with fiberglass insulation, someone must have removed it.

 

I wrapped all of my KDS-18 - KDS-20 machines with foil insulation on on the top, sides, and back of the tank in addition to the fiberglass insulation the factory had.  I stapled it on the sides, back, and top of the dishwasher cavity as well. This cut sani heating times by more than half. Very much worth the time and effort.

 

[combo52]

Kd 17 dws

Did not have any fiber glass insulation.

 

[qsd-dan]

Did not have any fiber glass insulation.

Well, that certainly explains the naked exterior. Pretty bonehead move, especially on their higher end models with a 180F sani final rinse temp.

 

[davey7]

Good to know, interesting fact

Interesting that it wouldn't have come with insulation, good to know. Definitely will add it when I get to that step of the project.

BTW how do I disconnect it? I gather that one takes the front bottom cover panel off and there should be a connection somewhere there (obviously after turning the breaker off). The drain and water will be less fun since it's a copper water line but which does have it's own shut off...

Then I unscrew and slide it out, right? Making sure not to screw with the flex conduit under the support I think...

 

[circlew]

There may also be screws at the top front corners fastening it to the countertop. If the floor was installed after the dishwasher was in place, it may be necessary to remove that section of countertop first to be able to pull it out. That's what I had to do when I removed my old KDI-16.

 

[jakeseacrest]

I'm glad you decided to keep this rather than replacing it. I used this same dishwasher in my culinary arts class in high school almost every day. I can still hear how loud it was all these years later.

 

[davey7]

Drain Hose Leak.....

So I had friends over for a solstice dinner and noticed that something didn't sound right. The gosh darn dang drain hose was leaking in the corner cabinet. I guess I have a fun Sunday project....

Will those ribbed drain hoses work? Like the ones from Menards or Home Despot?

 

[qsd-dan]

Will those ribbed drain hoses work?

I vaguely remember Stevet warning not to use a corrugated drain hose. I stick with heater hose myself. Not sure what the pre 18's use but the 18-20 series use a goofy 5/8" hose from the water valve nipple so you'll probably need to put an adaptor somewhere between there and the disposer/drain nipple.

 

[combo52]

Drain hose for a 17 series KitchenAid dishwasher

I've used the corrugated plastic ones on these machines they'll work fine as long as the inside diameter doesn't get below a half inch roughly, the 17 series only had a one minute drain. And restrictions in the drain line can cause performance problems.

On Thursday this week I pulled out a KDC 17 from 1973. It had finally reached the end of its life, the customer had wanted to replace years ago, but we always told her it would be impossible because she had put a granite countertop over it in the kitchen floor is built up a full inch in front of the feet of the dishwasher.

It was quite a job to remove. I had to take a Sawsaw and cut all four corner frames off and pull the dishwasher out Carefully without damaging the floor.

I put a new Chinese GEADA dishwasher in because you can put it in and run the legs up. It looked good and I'm sure it will outlast the customer, it's kind of neat because the new Chinese GE actually makes a fair amount of noise. it sounds a little bit like a KitchenAid and with its much smaller interior tub Than a tall tub dishwasher actually has a little bit of the field of the KitchenAid.

The house in Bethesda, Maryland that it's in is a really cool 1958 house still has the original kitchen with the horizontal Thermidor wall oven.

 

[qsd-dan]

Here's Stevet's replies about corrugated hose in Reply's 7 and 12:

"Funny you mentioned the corrugated hose. When we moved into our house there was a GE profile dishwasher that my wife absolutely hated. She only had to live with it for about a week before my Kitchenaids arrived from the old house back in NY. I put in the KDS18 and used the corrugated hose left from the GE and found that we always had water left in the sump. I even changed the drain valve just to be sure it wasn't the problem but it continued to leave the water. Stupid me! I changed the hose back to a 5/8" auto heater hose and the water drained batter than ever and worked like the machine had always worked. It is amazing how much resistance there is in those hoses."

"KA's always had the smooth walled hoses going all the way back. The drain period and rate of discharge are all figured in together and with the smooth hose and the time period given to hold open the drain valves, it should also be adequate to drain the machine properly."

https://www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/TD/TD-VIEWTHREAD.cgi?59700

 

[combo52]

Using a corrugated drain hose on a KD 17 dishwasher

Will work just fine if it's a half inch inside diameter like a whirlpool or newer KitchenAid corrugated drain hose.

GE corrugated drain hoses were quite small in diameter and will not work on a KitchenAid. Nobody is suggesting using such.

Interestingly, Hobart built KitchenAid's never came with a drain hose. They always expected you to supply that when you installed it many KD 17 and earlier dishwashers had copper drain lines that you sweated together.

We used to find that the KD 17 and earlier dishwashers would not drain fully with some air gaps because the pipe was too small in diameter in the air gap bend.

John

 

[stevet]

Undercounter mounting bracket solution

With so many people replacing their counters with Granite or other materials, there is a bracket to secure the dishwasher in place that screws into the cabinets on either side of the opening.

I have used them a few times without a hitch, and they can even be bought at Home depot or Lowes or your own choice of vender

https://www.amazon.com/EZVentures-D...8442c:amzn1.sym.27b41115-b206-47c3-8621-71309

 

[combo52]

Under countertop mounting brackets for dishwashers

I'm glad you posted this Steve. I really like these a lot of countertop companies in our area put these in when they do granite or other solid surface countertops and with all the holes provided it's always been easy to get the dishwasher properly attached.

Even though better dishwashers today, have provisions for side, mounting the dishwasher. I still prefer to mount them at the top if possible sometimes it's not as easy to mount them to various different cabinet styles or the dishwashers against the wall. You might only have drywall on one side, for example.

John

 

[davey7]

I ended up buying the smooth hose because it seemed like it was better made than the corrugated hose. I was too worn out yesterday to do anything with the dishwasher, it'll be later this week.

I've watched a couple video's about disassembly/connecting and reassembling/disconnecting. Any instructions for the right way to do it online (like a Kitchenaid instruction manual)? I assume that I have to disconnect the electric rather than unplug and put a tray under the water after turning it off....

I'm hoping pulling it exposes the electrical box that feeds the fridge, bathroom and counter receptacles so I can pull new wire to all of them.

 

[davey7]

Welp, it came out fine, but the drain hose broke in several places so I was on majorly borrowed time. I also realized that they rain the hose all the way to the back behind the unit rather than through the side like the water line.

And the electric for the dishwasher was done right, but for the lights, counter and fridge, well... That's another crazy story. Metallic cable going down is dishwasher, "romex" going up is to counter and undercabinet lights and to the right is to the fridge...