Kenmore 110.26822690 Direct Drive I have center post bearing and seal questions

[ncpapaul]

Kenmore 110.26822690 Direct Drive From this forum I've learned that 285134 is for belt drive (after I bought a nos kit) and 285203 is for direct drive.
All of my direct drive "restorations" (maybe 5 or 6 so far) have not required any center post parts yet. I new to the center post work.
My #690 had pitting on the outer tube that I was able to MIG weld "stitch" and turn back smooth in a lathe.
I did remove 2 of the large height seals (285134 style) BUT mine is NOT belt drive. So I assume some early models had the double tall seals?
Can I just use a single double lip seal from a 285203 kit? And that lets me be sealing in a smoother part of the inner drive tube?
Also YouTube and other forums DIY sites all address the upper 2 or 1 seal and bearing but no one addresses the bottom or lower seal and bearing.
Is the bottom seal identical to the upper "new" style single seal?
I've been a machinist for 50+ years and believe my bearings are still good in this 690 model.
Also there is in the 285134 kit a small rubber disc with a small hole in it, it's a little less than 1" in diameter........what is this for?
The only bearing kit instructions I can find are small print or either hard to see, IF anyone has a good clear 285203 Instructions Sheet?
I'm old but still learning and would appreciate any input and help with my issues. Thank you, Paul

 

[DADoES]

Also there is in the 285134 kit a small rubber disc with a small hole in it, it's a little less than 1" in diameter........what is this for?

A photo of what you have would be helpful.

 

[ncpapaul]

I will get a photo done soon yes, thanks

 

[combo52]

The small rubber washer is the seal that goes under the agitator mounting bolt. They included it because they want you to replace it to make sure you have a good air pocket under the agitator to prevent water from getting into the seal and bearing area.

 

[ncpapaul]

Thank you greatly

 

[ncpapaul]

 

[ncpapaul]

 

[ncpapaul]

I borrowed this photo from someone in this forum. I had the exact pitting but I was able to MIG "stitch" buildup the surface, file and sand it in a lathe to get it to mic exactly the same diameter as the rest of it.

 

[ncpapaul]

 

[ncpapaul]

Can I use the "new" single seal at the top and let it move the seal lip wear area that appears in my shaft?

 

[ncpapaul]

 

[ncpapaul]

 

[ncpapaul]

This "bottom" of the center post is a question for you guys also. How many seals fit here? and lips go "up" ? away from how we are looking up the tube?
To seal water from above?

 

[ncpapaul]

If there is a gap between the upper seal or seals and the bearing sleeve in the center post............can I not install the seal or seals (still not sure whether to use 2 of the tall ones or the "new" single seal) install the seal lower down into the tube - towards the bearing sleeve maybe 1/8" or so and make the seal lips be
running on smooth shaft surface?

 

[ncpapaul]

Does anyone have a clear copy of this sheet I could borrow or beg? Thank you, Paul

 

[ncpapaul]

 

[ncpapaul]

Even though my Kenmore 110.26822690 had two tall seals at the top most of the parts supply places list this 285203 number as correct.
So somewhere along the way Whirlpool switched seals yes?

 

[combo52]

I borrowed this photo from someone in this forum. I had the exact pitting but I was able to MIG "stitch" buildup the surface, file and sand it in a lathe to get it to mic exactly the same diameteri as the rest of it.

 

[combo52]

One of the short seals goes below each bearing these are to help keep the oil in the bearing area, they’re not really water seals at that point because water shouldn’t be in the bearings in the first place.

You can use one or two seals at the top whirlpool only used One seal at the top until about 1976, two seals nearly doubles the life of the machine because when the top seal that’s exposed to moisture fails, the secondary seal will take over so depending on how long you’re gonna use this washer and how much you could get away with one seal.

When whirlpool went to two top seals they originally had two tall ones they put on top of each other but later production they had won a seal assembly that had two lips.

If you have a scored line in the plating on the spin tube, you can position the seal so that it’s on the good plating and that will work at least until rust gets into the scored area and travels to the good area.

John L