Kenmore 110 not filling. Seems to be timer push pull switch. Anyone had success fixing it?

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Zoey

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Jul 20, 2025
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Kenmore 110.22642100. Sometimes nothing happens when I pull the switch, sometimes it'll fill for a second then stop. If I pull the timer knob out hard and keep holding it, it usually keeps filling. That's also the only time the continuity tests good.

Continuity of pressure switch, water valve, water temp switch and water level switch all test good. Pressure switch test where you blow into the hose also tested good.

I just put in a used transmission and now a few loads later this happened.
 

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I’ve had a problem with my Whirlpool Mark 18 where it would randomly stop when filling (this happened on various cycles), would push the knob back in and pull it back out and would continue to fill as intended. Looked into it, timer contacts weren’t really pitted. Turns out, the master switch would pop out ever so slightly stopping it on the fill portion. Removed the timer, added a couple drops of oil and lubricated the cam assembly and was back in business. Not an issue since then, works as intended.
 
Thank you everyone! I removed the knob and sprayed some Deoxit in around the stem and in around the little black plastic piece and it's working now. 🤞

I have another variant of this timer that I'll open up to see how it works in case this one stops working and I want to try and fix it.
 

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Yay, Zoey, glad a little lubricant made it work. Never hurts to do something like that.

Hi Dan, thanks for posting the cool video, but I think that pretty much proves the point that these are not made to fix however I have fixed things more difficult than that that we’re not designed to fix either.

Most of these white plastic timers that we see that have failed have usually burned up where the connection block plugs onto the timer and they’re usually in pretty bad shape other than that they were actually pretty reliable.

If you’re gonna try to fix them, you probably should have a spare timer because of course you can’t buy any parts for them from the manufacturer at least.

John L
 
Probably a bad timer, doesn’t make any difference if you try filling it on hot water?

If the timer on your washer is white plastic body, it is not really repairable look for another timer.

John L
Why not? (I'm not experienced with those) If there are snaps or screws holding it together, it seems you could access cams and contacts like any other one, if you're careful...
 
Thanks again for everyone's help. I took the cover off of an identical-looking timer with a different part number to see if I could understand how randomly spraying Deoxit into the center of the circular discs helped.

Pulling the knob drops the grey bar, allowing the protrusions on the rotating discs to activate the switches. Did spraying into the hole in the center of the rotating discs somehow free up the grey bar? Or did the spray somehow manage to reach the leaf contacts? Some youtube commenters say that if the contacts are worn, dirty or burnt, any fix won't last.

If I know what did it, I might have a better idea of whether it's just a temporary fix and if I should start looking for a new timer.

Thanks!
 

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Kenmore 110.22642100. Sometimes nothing happens when I pull the switch, sometimes it'll fill for a second then stop. If I pull the timer knob out hard and keep holding it, it usually keeps filling. That's also the only time the continuity tests good.

Continuity of pressure switch, water valve, water temp switch and water level switch all test good. Pressure switch test where you blow into the hose also tested good.

I just put in a used transmission and now a few loads later this happened.
I have a 110 model and initially had a tub leak water got in the transmission over time leaking from outer tub seal thru the main seal that was worn and then the main spring broke from corrosion from water ingestion over time again .The transmission would lock up and not spin.Fixed the tub seal and transmission then the timer had issues replaced the timer on E-Bay ($40) Works like new again so I had three issues.I would replace your timer easist job to do shop around on E-bay dont buy from parts online they are $150 if not more Good Luck GP
 
The leading three digits on Kenmore model numbers is a code for the source manufacturer. 110 is Whirlpool. There are many "110" models of varying mechanical design.
Thanks! I've seen references to Series 80 and Series 90 machines and wondered what Series this one is. The label says Type 111. Is that the Series?
 
replaced the timer on E-Bay ($40) Works like new again so I had three issues.I would replace your timer easist job to do shop around on E-bay dont buy from parts online they are $150 if not more Good Luck GP
Did you get a new or used timer? So far the best price on ebay is $185.
 
In that case they need to be polished. Not the same as sanding! ;)

If one really wants to extend the life of a timer, using relays to relieve the timer contacts of the motor current would do wonders.

Keith
I'd love to do that since I had to retire another machine because that specific timer model wasn't available anywhere. I'd need a video though or some other kind of instructions on how to add relays.
 
Thanks! I've seen references to Series 80 and Series 90 machines and wondered what Series this one is. The label says Type 111. Is that the Series?
I believe (not 100% sure) that Type 111 refers to a direct-drive machine of the largest tub capacity. I have a Roper model with a narrower tub (the cabinet width is still 27") that is Type 107.

Kenmore's various Series refer to the features of a given machine, where it falls in the product line ... lower to upper. It's a marketing label.

The full model number of a Kenmore washer (any Kenmore-branded appliance) is the entire number from the first three digits preceeding (and including the period) to the last digit. Example: 110.20907990

Serial numbers are coded for the manufacture date ... year and month or week depending on the producer's coding method.

Sears/Kenmore doesn't own/operate any manufacturing facilities. All products are sourced from the various major brand-makers. Translation lists of those three-digit code numbers can be found online by searching for "sears manufacturing codes."
 
I believe (not 100% sure) that Type 111 refers to a direct-drive machine of the largest tub capacity. I have a Roper model with a narrower tub (the cabinet width is still 27") that is Type 107.

Kenmore's various Series refer to the features of a given machine, where it falls in the product line ... lower to upper. It's a marketing label.

The full model number of a Kenmore washer (any Kenmore-branded appliance) is the entire number from the first three digits preceeding (and including the period) to the last digit. Example: 110.20907990

Serial numbers are coded for the manufacture date ... year and month or week depending on the producer's coding method.

Sears/Kenmore doesn't own/operate any manufacturing facilities. All products are sourced from the various major brand-makers. Translation lists of those three-digit code numbers can be found online by searching for "sears manufacturing codes."
Thank you! That's so helpful.
 
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