Kenmore 24-inch space saver washer restoration help

[rll70sman]

I visited my grandparents in northern Minnesota yesterday for Easter. It turns out they still have their old 1981 Kenmore 24-inch space saver washer stored in the shed. Something went haywire on it a number of years ago and the machine was removed from service. If I remember right, my grandmother said the machine filled with wash water, agitated, drained, and spun. However, during the rinse portion of the cycle, the tub filled but would not agitate. The machine then advanced to the neutral drain and final spin without any problems.

Anyway, still looking for a vintage washer to accompany my modern Whirlpool washer-dryer pair, I asked if I could have it. My grandfather gladly agreed since it’ll free up some storage space. My parents will bring the machine down in a few weeks.

Aside from the agitation problem described above, here's what other issues I know that need tending to:

1. The wash basket spins, though somewhat sluggishly, and the Dual-Action agitator spins very slowly. The motor sounds strong and the belt is still in good shape.

2. Also, there are a number of places around the lid opening and the cabinet base where the paint has flaked away and rust has formed. Is there a way to refinish those spots with the least amount of damage?

3. The water inlet valve has some sort of a problem in which the hot water will not shut off after the washer has reached the selected water level. The cold water does shut off properly.

This is the washer of my childhood at which I’ve clocked many hours in front of over the years. I’d be eternally grateful for any feedback any of you may have on this. Thank you!

Rob

 

[cfz2882]

nice find!

i have a '77 BD24" and i am pretty sure '81(and possibly'82)
24"are still the BD design using most of the same mechanical
parts as fullsize BDs.
sluggish action sounds like belt might be slipping even though
it's still in good shape-could try to tighten a little.
Hot valve probably just stuck or possibly cracked diafram.

 

[rll70sman]

Here's another piece of info I forgot to include in the original post.

Model 110.81175100
Stock 11751
Serial C11007631

 

[Unimatic1140]

I agree, I would start with replacing (or at least tightening) the belt and replacing the fill valve as they are still available. Then go from there.

 

[kenmoreguy64]

Rob -

The fill valve is part number 358277 and they are plentiful and cheap.

Definately look at the belt and tighten as needed. That very well may be all you need!!

However, if something failed years ago, the problem is most likely still there. What happens at times with these is that water enters the transmission by way of worn seals in the centerpost, especially in 1978 and later machines which have a considerably shorter centerpost. Eventually water contaminates the gearcase oil, and it becomes dirty, sometimes rusty, and thickened. If the agitator is slow to ramp-up, that's an indication of resistance inside the transmission (if the belt is properly tightened).

When this is going on, there is usually external evidence, at least in the advanced stages. So check inside the cabinet and see if there is any sign of oil/water having been slung against the cabinet. If you don't know what I mean, look at the pictures of the 1982 500 I posted about in another thread - you can see the greasy spew all over the inside cabinet. When water gets in the trans, an early failure item is the springs that are used to engage and disengage agitation. These rust and break, and interfere with a gearcase going into agitate. I hope I'm wrong but if this were my machine, that is what I would expect is going on.

As to the paint on the top - that is very common with those machines and I have cursed Sears for years for choosing to paint many of their washer tops when WP choose to porcelain coat even their cheaper models. Back in 1979-1982, only the upper level machines got porcelain. My solution to that has been one of two things - scrap the top in favor of a porcelain replacement from a donor, OR have the top refinished either myself or at a body shop. That depends on how fussy you are. If the spots are minor, you can sand the spots and treat them with touch-up, but this is temporary at best.

Gordon

 

[rll70sman]

Super! Thanks, Gordon, for that part number! Knowing full well that the water inlet valve needed replacing, I stopped at the Sears repair center in St. Paul yesterday on my way home from Grand Rapids. The guy working there called up the schematics for this machine and found the replacement that I needed. They had at least a dozen FSP Part Number 358277 valves in stock! I got one along with a replacement drain hose kit and a do-it-yourself repair manual for belt-drive Kenmore washers. However, Sears did not have the extra long inlet hoses so I stopped at the Ace Hardware store here in Hastings. They had 10-foot hoses, which will be just the right length for my particular installation.

Now I'm set with the prelimary parts to begin diagnosing the more major problem(s) when the machine arrives here in a few weeks. Gordon, I'll contact you yet sometime today. Thanks again for all the feedback so far!

Rob

 

[rll70sman]

White porcelain top donor

Does anyone on here have a white replacement porcelain top for a 24-inch belt drive? If not, will a body shop even mess with things like this? It'd be nice to preserve as much as possible on this machine since I practically grew up with it. Thanks!

Rob

 

[rll70sman]

Well, it was decided that a new FSP drive belt couldn't hurt, either. So, I purchased a new one today from an eBay seller here in Minnesota. Someone told me that I should also change the tub ring gasket as part of an overhaul since they're getting hard to find. Is that true?

As far as a replacement porcelain top, does anyone know where I can get one? And how should I deal with the rust around the base of the cabinet? It's not too bad, but I'd rather it not get worse.

Rob

 

[kenmoreguy64]

Rob -

A new belt won't hurt anything, but if the machine has only been in service 12 years total as you told me, the old belt is unlikely to be worn out. I may however be dried out and stretched now. So, I would put a new one in there and agree with other's advice. That is not a feather-weight job, just so you know.

As to the top, porcelain tops are hard to come by now on 29-inch machines, especially for me because I don't like to scrap stuff other than true DOA machines. 24-inch porcelain tops are going to be next to impossible unless some appliance place stached one and still has it. Be prepared that it could have a hole in the left front lid well corner for a bleach dispenser.

Looking back at 24-inch models, you need to consider two things - a donor top will require the two sets of holes for the end-cap anchoring feet (1974 and later) and the wiring harness connection block to be in the right rear corner. This requires 1977 and later parts (the wiring harness is not long enough in a 1977 or later machine to be stretched to the 1976 and earlier mid-top location).

Problem is with 1977 and later tops, I can't think of even one machine that had a porcelain top in that time frame. There was a 1977 and 1979 70 series and they were painted. There was an 80 series in the 1979 era (maybe) and it could have been porcelain coated, but I don't want to swear to that as there were some 80 series machines that were painted in 29-inch versions. I would certainly check around if I were you, as there is nothing much more pleasing in washer work than having a rust-bucket for a washer that you can cure in an instant by replacing the top with a porcelain one, but because of the rarity of the item you need, just keep in mind that you may be looking a while. The best place to check is used appliance stores that were in business in the 90s that might have kept this stuff laying around.

If it were me, I would make other plans to re-use the original.

I'll offer this for you - this summer I am going to be having my 1961 and 1974 Kenmore cabinets painted at a body-shop where the manager is a friend of mine and to whom I refer business at times. He has painted a couple of my Mustangs. I am going to have the original tops painted to my 1977 and 1980 Kenmores, and to another or two at the same time, so if you want to dissassemble yours and send it here (it's pretty light, but take the porcelain lid if you have one off first) and I'll include it with my stuff.

If you want to paint it yourself, I have painted these once or twice with OK-ish results. I stripped mine of rust using everything from a wire brush to naval jelly, then primed it with rusty metal primer, and finally used appliance epoxy to finish the job. The results were ok - not perfect, but ok. You can try that if you want to minimize expense and have that "done yourself" feeling of accomplishment.

Gordon