Kenmore 90 Series Washer Repair Disaster

[kendall22]

Hello,
We have a Kenmore 90 Series washing machine, model 110.209092990. A few weeks ago we replaced the agitator cogs, drain pump and coupler.
All was well until a week ago when the machine began to make a clicking sound while spinning. At end of cycle, the laundry was too wet which we figured must indicate that the machine was spinning too slowly.

On the advice of an appliance repair place, we bought a new clutch. Our son installed it. After removing the old clutch, he inspected it and thought it seemed to work fine. He opened the transmission and checked the gears. None of the gears appeared to be damaged. He replaced the gear oil and reassembled the machine (knowing that he had probably not solved the problem).

As soon as I tried to wash a load of clothes, the water overflowed. When we tried to drain it, it made a loud noise and would not drain.
At this point, our son doesn't think the washer is worth fixing since it now has two more problems than it did before he tried to repair it.
We're looking for another older Whirlpool-made machine but have been unsuccessful in finding one for under $220.

Our budget is tight. Would anyone be willing to offer advice on how to diagnose our washing machine? Thank you in advance.

 

[yogitunes]

more details....

overflowed, as in it kept filling?.....plugged in or not?....
first thing I would check is the air dome tube, is it connected on both ends?...

need a better description of 'noise'.....

best always if you dont have knowledge of a direct drive machine, to check out youtube vids, they are very detailed and helpful for repairs..

where exactly do you live, direct drive machines are plentiful just about anywhere you look...

keep us posted...

 

[kendall22]

Thank you so much for your reply, Yogitunes.
Yes, it kept on filling until it overflowed.
It was plugged in.

Hopefully tomorrow, I can disassemble the machine again, look for the air dome tube and check whether it is connected on both ends.

I don't know how to describe the noise so I made a YouTube video. Link is below. The noise starts out very loud and then seems to gradually wear down if that makes any sense.

We did watch several videos before making any repairs. The first repairs involving installation of the agitator cogs, coupler and water pump went well.
Our son did the clutch replacement and transmission internal check and fluid replacement. He is not a washing machine mechanic but is mechanically inclined in other areas. He can do basic car repairs. (He is a perfectionist who has worked as a Lego master designer for a major YouTube channel and has built his own guitars, but I digress to subjects unrelated to washing machine repair.)

We live in the High Desert of Southern California. Yes, there are lots of used direct drive washing machines available. However, most are offered by dealers who charge quite a bit for a top load washing machine. Since we have already replaced several parts on ours, I'm a little reluctant give up on it just yet.

 

[DADoES]

 
The timer is set for spin, yes?  Need a longer video, and one with the lid open showing the interior (and with the lid switch manually depressed) may also be helpful.

The pump attaches directly to the front of the motor and operates at all times that the motor runs.  Agitation, the pump effectively runs in reverse to force water back into the tub instead of out the drain hose.

Draining (normally) involves the motor running with the transmission in neutral mode ... however, getting it into neutral is a mechanical process that requires some agitation to occur first, otherwise it goes directly into spin instead of neutral drain.  Water does, of course, also drains during spin.

Check that the pressure tube is connected to the water level control in the console before further disassembling to check at the air dome.  The console has to be opened/raised first anyway before removing the cabinet.

 

[kendall22]

Yes, it was in spin mode.
I linked a longer video per your instructions.
I don't know if you were able to tell whether the pressure tube is connected to the water level control in the console. It was probably too dark or perhaps I didn't focus on the right area. I have never heard of those parts so I'll need to do a bit of research to figure out what I'm looking for and exact location.

Thanks for your time.

 

[kendall22]

The rubber tube is attached at the console and at the bottom.

 

[kendall22]

The site doesn't allow me to edit my posts. I watched some YouTube videos on overfilling washer problems. I disconnected the tube at the console. I can easily blow through it so it isn't plugged. Does that indicate that the switch is bad?

 

[henene4]

Could be.

But given your previous issues I'd actually more tend towards a timer issue.

Does it still overfill on any setting (so all wash and rinse fills)?

Or just on certain settings or sporadically?

 

[kendall22]

And I should add, there appear to be no holes or other damage to the tube.

When the machine was operational, it would make a loud clunk sound at the end of the spin cycle. I thought this might be because of a bad motor coupler. The coupler was broken but after we replaced it, the machine still made the clunk sound at end of cycle. Maybe that is normal but I am just trying to provide as much information as possible in case it helps in the diagnoses.

 

[DADoES]

 
The model may be 110.20902990 (which searches for parts) instead of 110.209092990 (which does not search).  I have a 110.20907990.

The water level switch can be checked with a multimeter if you have one.  Disconnect the wires from it.  Should read continuity across the V and P terminals with no pressure on it.  Blow into the switch (where the pressure tube attaches) to make it click (pressure applied), then continuity should shift to V and T.  That tests the contacts, however the internal diaphram could be failed such that it leaks pressure.

There's an unhealthy gear or whirring sound on the mechanism that changes tone from start until spins get going full speed.  Did your son remove the internal transmission parts when examining it and possibly get something reassembled wrong?

You should be able to get the machine to agitate with no water by setting the timer at the last two minutes of the wash period on the Ultra Clean/Regular cycle. The lid switch must be depressed.

Your reference on failure to drain may indicate a factor being the pump is cracked where it interfaces to the motor shaft and the motor isn't driving it.  Just an idea from afar.

 

[rp2813]

If you choose to upgrade your membership for $12/year, you will be able to post as often as you like and also enjoy editing privileges.

 

[kendall22]

My son told me that he thinks the overflowing problem is a non-issue. He said that the tube was disconnected. He had reconnected it when it overflowed but he thinks that it just overflowed because the pressure in the tube didn't have a chance to build up because the machine was already full of water.
I guess the real problem is the noise it is making while spinning and that it is probably still not spinning fast enough.

I apologize for the miscommunication. I have not been discussing the repair with our sons because they think it is ridiculous to continue trying to fix "a worn-out piece of junk". My husband feels the same way. He is working out of town and doesn't have time to fix our appliances.

Our youngest son, who is a college student, certified welder and machinist is working on the washer. (He is ticked at being unable to do his laundry so wants it fixed NOW.)
He disassembled it, cleaned out and adjusted the transmission, confirming that it does not have any broken parts. He noted that the bearing at the bottom of the tub looks worn and found that the washer break retaining clip is missing (part # WPW10080230). Our local appliance repair shop doesn't stock the clip. My son purchased a different retaining clip from Tractor Supply. He said that he will put it on his industrial lathe and cut a groove in it to make it fit. Not sure if replacing the clip is likely to fix the problem though. Hopefully, the motor isn't bad.

 

[kendall22]

I'm happy to report that our washing machine is working again. Our son thinks that the missing retaining clip might have been the reason it was malfunctioning. Either that or perhaps the transmission wasn't put together correctly the first time.
I am very grateful for your assistance. Thank you so much! This is an interesting forum. I never realized there were so many complicated washing machines. I have heard that Whirlpool washers made before 2010 are much more reliable than newer machines. What do you think of the older models with the black tops? Are they better than the 90 series machines?

 

[DADoES]

 
You mean a black background on the control panel?  They're mechanically the same.

Whirlpool introduced their direct-drive design in 1981/1982 under the Sears/Kenmore brand as test-marketing and kept it a Sears exclusive for a couple years.  Whirlpool's first model was in 1984.  They were produced under numerous brand names ... Whirlpool, Kenmore, KitchenAid, Roper, Estate, Inglis.  Whirlpool bought Maytag in 2006 which brought Maytag, Admiral, Amana, and Crosley brands into play.

Most KitchenAid units after 1989-ish ran high agitation at the low motor speed with a larger agitator that rolled the load over with less aggressive action.  Those KitchenAid models are considered the best of the bunch but are harder to find on the used market.

 

[kendall22]

You are correct that I messed up the model number.
Yes, the black background on the control panel. I didn't realize that so many brands were made by Whirlpool. Good to know.
Is this KitchenAid model a good one? KAWS777EQ0. I have attached a photo. Are the push buttons desirable?

What about all the fancy front loaders that are discussed here? It sounds like people love them and many are able to heat the water to specific temperatures. Are they reliable or is it best to just stick with direct drive top loaders? Just wondering for future reference when we may be able to afford an upgrade.

 

[kendall22]

Kenmore 90 Series Washer - Broken Again

Hello,
After two repair attempts, our Kenmore washer worked for a week and is broken again. The last time, the machine was making a loud noise during the spin cycle. It was also not spinning fast enough so the laundry was coming out too wet. This time it is making the same loud noise but won't spin at all. I have attached a video. (Noise is louder than it seems on the video.)
Wondering if this thing is even work fixing anymore

 

[keith]

Snap ring

My guess is the snap ring your son had to modify to fit failed again because it had been modified, or the groove on the shaft is damaged and allowing the snap ring to pop off.

 

[kendall22]

Thank you so much for your reply, Keith. We will check out the snap ring and inspect the groove for damage. Is it worthwhile to fix such an old machine? My husband believes that it is worn out and a waste of time to keep repairing it.

 

[DADoES]

 
Surely worth repairing for as long as parts are available.