Kenmore 90 Series

[kskenmore]

As I began the search for my first washer and dryer set, I was less that enthused about new offerings and turned to the second hand market. I began to obsessively research as I usually do and discovered this wonderful website! I've enjoyed your passion for vintage appliances and learned how beautiful older units are!

Tonight I purchased a Kenmore Heavy Duty Ultra Fabric Care 90 Series Quiet Pak matching washer dryer set. I haven't been able to find this exact set anywhere online. Is this a common set? Also, I've been trying to nail down when these were made.

Any tips on getting the best wash out of these?

Thank you!

 

[DADoES]

 
Washer = 7th week of 1996.

Dryer = 9th week of 1996.

Fast agitation speed is notably aggressive so respect that the designated Regular setting is Slow agitate (medium motor speed) with Fast spin.

 

[appnut]

The 90 series used to be designated for the top of the line Lady Kenmore.  If they'd only included the wash action knob with the first generation of Direct Drive LKs in fall of 1986, they wouldn't have been bestowed the nickname Lady Shredmore.  These had the timed bleach, fabric softener, and detergent dispensers removed.  10 years too late.  Dryer identical to my old one. 

 

[kskenmore]

Dirty Tub

The washer tub has a yellow rust colored something on it. What is the best method to clean this?

The dryer has a blue something inside. What in the world could this be?

I read your warnings about shredmores and thought the 90 Series would have enough adjustments to hopefully avoid shredding all my dress shirts.

 

[DADoES]

 
The water supply where the machines were used has a high iron content.  Notice the stains on the tub ring under the fill flume.  CLR or Lime-a-way to clean the washer basket ... but keep exposure to a minimum so the porcelain isn't damaged ... DO NOT leave is soaking overnight.

Dryer is stained from the unstable indigo dye in denim jeans.  Sometimes said to be caused by washing them in cold water.  The blue color doesn't transfer onto other clothes.

 

[kskenmore]

It has some issues...

Thank you for the cleaning tips. I’ll use them for sure!

The main issue that I don’t understand is that it seems it gets stuck between cycles. I leaned on the top and it jumps to the next cycle. Whenever I put pressure on the top it will click to the next cycle. What is wrong that could be causing this?

Thank you!

 

[appnut]

The lid switch is not seating appropriately and thus the little striker isn't pushing on the lid switch as it should.  It won't drain or spin when the lid is open.  Try taking a pencil or small screw driver and depressing the lid switch in the little hole when it gets "stuck" and see if it continues on with the cycle. In fact, looking at photo # 4, the switch seems to be pretty far down in the little hole. 

 

[kskenmore]

It worked!

Thank you appnut! Now it moves along to each cycle perfectly.

The only remaining issue is that is shakes viloently at the fast spin speed. It only shakes some at the slow spin speed. Even empty it shakes quite a lot at the fast speed. With a medium load at fast speed it was shaking so much and hitting the front and back of the case! I changed it to the slow speed to finish the load.

If made sure it is level but he front left leg is solidly in the ground but I can wiggle the machine and that leg appears to give and spring up if that makes sense.

 

[lorainfurniture]

Check under the machine. There should be a spring attached to the back of the tub and connected to the rear base of the frame. If it’s not that the. One of your snubber pads is missing

 

[DADoES]

 
<blockquote>KSKenmore:  If made sure it is level but he front left leg is solidly in the ground but I can wiggle the machine and that leg appears to give and spring up if that makes sense.</blockquote> The rear legs are self-leveling, adjusted by tilting the machine forward and setting it back down.  Sometimes they get stuck.  Whack both of them in turn with a mallet (no harder than necessary) to loosen them.

1) The base pedestal has three pads.

2) A skate plate sits atop the base pedestal, slides on those pads.  The plate has three more pads set at an angle.

3 & 4) The tub support sits onto the skate plate pads, which allow it to pivot/oscillate.  Three springs (red arrow represents one of them) anchor the tub/support to the base pedestal.

The fourth rear spring serves to counterbalance the weight of the motor at the front.  The mounting hole in the base rail can wear- or rust-through.  The fix, assuming the spring isn't missing or broken, is to drill a new mounting hole.

Broken/cracked pads (not common) will cause metal-to-metal contact and interfere with movement of the tub.  Mishandling during transport can cause the skate plate and/or tub support to shift askew.

The body of the lid switch under the top deck may be cracked, which can result in the switch body spreading apart when the actuator tab presses on the switch lever, instead of the switch triggering properly.

 

[kskenmore]

Fixed!

Thank you for your detailed reply! You guys are the best. I ended up getting a little too forceful trying to stuff something to keep the lid switch depressed and broke it off. I found the replacement part on amazon for less than $10 shipped! Installed that part and found one of the rear legs stuck. Now with the new switch and the legs free it doesn't shake like crazy and doesn't need anything stuffed in the hole to keep the switch depressed.

Thank you again! Love learning for you all.

 

[kskenmore]

Another Issue

Well I have another issue. The washer will only agitate in the ultra mode and even then only for about 30 seconds. Then it will stop agitating but the timer will continue on through the cycle. Sometimes if I push the knob in and pull it back out it will again agitate for about 30 seconds and then stop.

Does this seem to be a timer issue?