Kenmore 92580800 Washer Banging

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datalady

Active member
Joined
Feb 2, 2021
Messages
31
Location
Indiana
Hello!
My washer acts normally until it reaches the spin cycle. Then it sounds like the tub is banging, The lid is also rattling. It’s balanced and not overfilled, and the tub doesn’t move around when I press on it when the washer is empty. I’ve read several threads and can’t figure out what exactly is wrong and how to fix it. Does anyone know? I’have a video of the behavior but I don’t think I can attach it. It sounds like a freight train. Thanks so much for your help!!
 
 
110 is a prefix code that indicates Whirlpool as the source manufacturer of it for Sears.

The full model number is 110.whatever-numbers-follow.

Possibly 110.92580800 is the full model number, being that 92580800 is not valid syntax for a serial number on a WP-produced washer.  The serial should begin with a letter, probably C.

A photo of the model/serial tag will confirm what you have.

Videos cannot be uploaded/attached to posts on this board.  They must be placed at an online file-sharing site, then referenced with a link in your post/reply.  YouTube is typically used for videos but any sharing site that allows public viewing/linking should work.
 
 
Yes.  Model 110.92580800.

Serial CD2407760.  C = built in WP's Clyde OH plant.  D = 1994.  24 = 24th week.

Viewing the video will help determine the source of the problem.  May be that the basket anchor drive block has worn or loosened from the spin drive tube.  The top of the drive block has two notches that mate to ears at top of the drive tube.  The notches and ears must mate securely or the block-and-basket will slip and cause a racket/noise during spin acceleration and braking.  Access to examine that area is by removing the agitator.  The basket is anchored to the drive block/spin tube by a spanner nut that calls for a specific tool for removal, although other methods can be used in a pinch.
 
Video of Washer Banging

Thanks so much for your reply! I was able to upload the video on You Tube and the link is below. The washer is at an angle because it moved itself into that spot despite rubber pads under the washer’s feet. Thanks again for your help!!

 
One other thing about the noise

You’ll note in the video that the washer gets significantly quieter. That’s because I’m holding the lid down and not allowing it to vibrate and rattle. Thank you!
 
1994 Kenmore Direct Dr. washer banging in spin cycle

I would remove the agitator and check for a cracked center post in the basket. It may be rusted and broken.

As these machines are aging, we fairly frequently see broken wash baskets they rust and break.

It also could have a balance ring that the fluid came out of, how does the washer sound with nothing in it? Does it spin smoothly?

If it makes a lot of noise with nothing in it, it definitely needs to be disassembled the cause of the problem found.

John L
 
Kenmore 110 Washer Lid Banging—Needs New Hinge Bumpers?

Hello! I’ve spent some time with my washer. It was banging because my kids were putting too much in and it was a bit off balance from front to back. It is better now that it’s balanced, but the lid is banging loudly now. If you hold the lid down it’s not loud. It is moving up and down and side to side when the washer agitates. Do you all think I need new bumpers? How do you install the hinge bumpers? Thanks so much for your advice!
 
 
The rear legs are self-adjusting for stability.  Tilt the machine forward, set it back down, the rear legs auto-adjust to the floor.  If they're rusted/frozen/stuck, then they must be freed-up for proper adjustment function.

The front legs screw in-out for leveling the whole machine front-to-back and side-to-side.  Repeat the tilt-forward procedure each time the front legs are adjusted.  There are (should be) locknuts on the front legs that are tightened upward against the machine base after leveling adjustment is complete, which further helps to reduce vibration.

I have difficulty imagining enough vibration during agitation to make the lid "bang" as you describe.  Another video seems in order on that point!
 
Thanks so much for the help and vidro

Hello!
Just wanted to say thank you for the video on the pads. It was easy to follow! We replaced the pads and it’s still agitating roughly and the lid is banging like in my video. I’ll investigate some of the other thoughts raised here. Thanks again for your suggestions!
 
One Question: Do these washers have suspension rods?

I was wondering if this might be the problem. If they don’t have suspension rods, do you think whatever they have instead could be worn out?
 
Thanks so much John! I’ve filmed another video of it, after the snubber pads were replaced and with nothing in it. The basket does move a bit when I move in, as seen in the video. I’m trying to understand what I should try next. I am not quite sure what to look for if I remove the agitator and am not sure how to check the balance ring. The balance ring is expensive and I’d hate to replace it if it doesn’t need it. What do you think? Could it be something with the springs?

 
Skate plate looks super difficult to replace

I am hoping it’s not the skate plate! Is that what these machines have instead of suspension rods?
 
 
The skate plate fits between the tub support/centerpost assembly and base pedestal and allows the tub to oscillate during spin and to a lesser extend during agitation, restricted by the anchor springs.  They plates rarely, if ever, go bad.  They can shift out of proper position, the most common cause is improper handling when moving the machine from one location to another.
 
Video of the spin cycle with lid open and no clothes

Hello!
I posted that video. The lid banging is so loud. I pushed it toward the controls and hopefully it’s quiet enough for you to hear. Thanks so much!

 
Cabinet wobble

Sheesh, that's quite a wobble. If you were to take the cabinet off and bypass the lidswitch connector plug with a jumper wire, you could run it without the cabinet to see if it's wobbling the whole base or not. Sometimes I've found the cabinet won't seat right on the frame if the edges of the cabinet are bent, and it will act something like that. Hammering it out has usually solved the problem for me, but that could also not be applicable to your situation.

The tub actually appears to be askew in the video when it's running, which seems to be causing an exacerbated tub wobble, so it might be a skate plate moved out of place? That's a little bit involved to try and reset but it's not terribly difficult. You'd need somebody else strong enough to lift the tub up while you rotate the plate into proper position. Shouldn't need to replace it though, I had to on mine only because it was clearly ran for years without one side having a pad under it, so it wore through the paint and caused it to run a little rough even after having replaced the pad.
 
Trying to take out agitator: nut won’t budge!

Hello!
I thought I’d try the easier of the two options, taking out the agitator, first. I’ve used PB Blaster and WD 40 on the nut throughout the day but it just won’t budge. I tried pounding my ratchet, as it’s on the nut, with a hammer to loosen it. I’m hesitant to use heat because of all the plastic. Does anyone have a solution that won’t mess up my agitator? Thank you!
 
Removing a stuck agitator Bolt

You may have to use an extension on the ratchet handle for more leverage, sometimes they’re stuck occasionally the head of the nut breaks off and you have to replace the transmission.

You may have to use a extension on the ratchet handle for more leverage, sometimes they’re stuck occasionally the head of the nut breaks off and you have to replace the transmission.

The washer is over 30 years old. If it’s had a lot of use you maybe should just be replacing it, not everything is easily repairable and it’s not gonna last that much longer no matter what you do.

John
 
Not worth repairing?

John, Thanks for the info! I got the washer used last year, so I don’t know how much use it’s seen. It’s in great shape overall with little to no rust. I replaced a 2016 Samsung with this because I wanted something all mechanical. I also wanted a Whirlpool-made machine. The Samsung was way more rusted than this one. Unless I buy a Speed Queen, anything I get today is going to be crap. It seems to make some sense to repair this one if I can, but do you know something about this one? Does it have something big that tends to go out around this time that’s super difficult and expensive to replace?
 
Hi, these were very good washers in their day. Obviously I’ve worked on thousands of them. I still work on them every week in my business

But we’re starting to see a lot of of these that aren’t worth fixing. I can’t tell without looking at yours.

It’s not a good sign if the agitator bold is so rusted that you can’t get it out I do fear that the tub itself may be cracking, which is also a difficult problem. The tubs are extremely expensive and somewhat no longer available, excessive vibration like this is not a typical problem for these machines sometimes you’re lucky and there is a simple solution many times it’s something much more serious.

While it’s not impossible to get a machine like this, that’s in good shape. You really have to figure out how much it’s been used. What’s wrong with it it’s sort of like trying to drive a 1995 car. Some of them are still in excellent shape. A lot of them should’ve been crushed a long time ago.

Direct Dr., Kenmore and Whirlpool washers can make good washers still if you can get a good one you also could look for a Speed Queen top loader made in the last 10 years. I assume you’re looking for a traditional top load washer.

John L
 
Thanks so much John! Checked skate plate also

Thanks so much John! I was hoping it was a misplaced skate plate but it seems lined up. I took another video in case you see anything obvious. The plate moved with the tub.

Would you recommend a specific direct drive machine if I have to go that route?

 
One more thought: Grommet under skate plate?

Hi again,
As I was looking at the skate plate, I noticed that this rubber grommet under there was dry and seemingly out of place. Does this have anything to do with my issues? If so, it looks difficult to replace.

datalady-2025021816105302932_1.jpg
 
Thanks so much, John, and DadDoes! Decided to replace her.

Thank so much for your help with my Kenmore 110 washer. After further research, I think the issue is the clutch. Given the expense of the clutch and age of the washer (31), I’ve decided to replace her. I am really sad. I was hoping to keep her awhile. I loved her while she was here.
 

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