Kenmore Belt Drive Question
- Thread starter jaytag
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Wig Wag solenoid?
Possibly a bent cam bar?
Timer issue?
Kenmoreguy64 is the guru for these.
Good luck,
Dave
Possibly a bent cam bar?
Timer issue?
Kenmoreguy64 is the guru for these.
Good luck,
Dave
Jay, can you further explain when it "wants to start to agitate but sits there"?
Does the motor turn on?
Does it start to agitate then stop?
Have you tried all agitate positions (wash & rinse) on the timer?
Does the motor turn on?
Does it start to agitate then stop?
Have you tried all agitate positions (wash & rinse) on the timer?
Jay -
Kevin just sent me an e-mail saying to check the Imperial forum. Now I see why....
You have a 1983 model (1986 built) Kenmore 70 series. This was their most popular model in the 1983-1986 time frame. I actually have this same model.
I have a couple important questions - it sounds like you're saying the motor runs when it "wants" to agitate? Is that correct? What happens to the water when it tries to agitate? Does it just sit there or does the water pump out? Also, when you switch the machine to drain and spin, do you hear the characteristic switching of a "gear" before it begins to drain?
Your answers to these will shed light on whether you have a bad control magnet (ie. wig-wag) or if there is something wrong internally in the transmission. Just out of curiosity, try pushing down on the agitator when the machine is trying to agitate, and see what happens - it may engage. If it does, that's not a good sign.
If the motor runs, we know it's not that. There could be a timer issue, but I would be surprised.
Let us know Jay!
Gordon
Kevin just sent me an e-mail saying to check the Imperial forum. Now I see why....
You have a 1983 model (1986 built) Kenmore 70 series. This was their most popular model in the 1983-1986 time frame. I actually have this same model.
I have a couple important questions - it sounds like you're saying the motor runs when it "wants" to agitate? Is that correct? What happens to the water when it tries to agitate? Does it just sit there or does the water pump out? Also, when you switch the machine to drain and spin, do you hear the characteristic switching of a "gear" before it begins to drain?
Your answers to these will shed light on whether you have a bad control magnet (ie. wig-wag) or if there is something wrong internally in the transmission. Just out of curiosity, try pushing down on the agitator when the machine is trying to agitate, and see what happens - it may engage. If it does, that's not a good sign.
If the motor runs, we know it's not that. There could be a timer issue, but I would be surprised.
Let us know Jay!
Gordon
Testing One Two Three
Ok,
So I moved it around in the carport, used a garden hose to fill. Got more water in it and sprayed it down a bit. When I went to turn it on, the tub spun around and then it kicked in and the agitator began to work. I noticed that if I moved the tub back a bit a buzzer sound came on and it would not agitate. It went a whole cycle empty and then I brought it in and loaded it up. It is washing now. I made a video.
Ok,
So I moved it around in the carport, used a garden hose to fill. Got more water in it and sprayed it down a bit. When I went to turn it on, the tub spun around and then it kicked in and the agitator began to work. I noticed that if I moved the tub back a bit a buzzer sound came on and it would not agitate. It went a whole cycle empty and then I brought it in and loaded it up. It is washing now. I made a video.
Jay -
It's sort of like this when at the doctor's office "Doc, when I move my elbow back like this, it hurts". Doc says "Well then don't move your elbow back like that!"
In this case, the buzzer you are hearing is an off-balance relay that was standard in most (not all) upper end Kenmores. The relay is a kick-out switch that the superstructure of the machine strikes to purposely shut off the whole machine. This is intended for off-balance loads during spin, but I have heard of machines striking the kick-out during agitation too. Don't push the tub back on purpose while it's running.
A badly out of level machine can do this, and also one with a weak, missing, or broken snubber pad & spring. The snubber dampens the oscilations caused by torgue from agitation. I can tell you probably by looking at your video if the machine is not getting the needed effects of the snubber, or if you take a picture under the top, I can tell that way too.
The buzzer resets itself each time you push the timer knob in to turn off the machine. There should be some brief instructions about this under the lid. Definitely however, the machine needs to be level. If it is leaning back or toward the right, this will make it more likely to activate the relay buzzer.
Gordon
It's sort of like this when at the doctor's office "Doc, when I move my elbow back like this, it hurts". Doc says "Well then don't move your elbow back like that!"
In this case, the buzzer you are hearing is an off-balance relay that was standard in most (not all) upper end Kenmores. The relay is a kick-out switch that the superstructure of the machine strikes to purposely shut off the whole machine. This is intended for off-balance loads during spin, but I have heard of machines striking the kick-out during agitation too. Don't push the tub back on purpose while it's running.
A badly out of level machine can do this, and also one with a weak, missing, or broken snubber pad & spring. The snubber dampens the oscilations caused by torgue from agitation. I can tell you probably by looking at your video if the machine is not getting the needed effects of the snubber, or if you take a picture under the top, I can tell that way too.
The buzzer resets itself each time you push the timer knob in to turn off the machine. There should be some brief instructions about this under the lid. Definitely however, the machine needs to be level. If it is leaning back or toward the right, this will make it more likely to activate the relay buzzer.
Gordon
bobbins
Active member
If it doesn't drain when the washer is in agitation, the motor is running....the agitator could be stripped......
everythingold
Well-known member
Level
Gordon, I think it is good that you bring up the importance of a level machine. I can't tell you how many machines (DD's especially) I have seen destroyed by running on a slope. Worse are subtle, harder to diagnose problems. A level is a pretty simple tool to use. matt
Gordon, I think it is good that you bring up the importance of a level machine. I can't tell you how many machines (DD's especially) I have seen destroyed by running on a slope. Worse are subtle, harder to diagnose problems. A level is a pretty simple tool to use. matt
Jay -
Just get a leveling leg - Whirlpool still makes them and they are less than 10-bucks. The switch is designed to protect the machine, and running a belt-drive on a badly unleveled surface can and will very quickly ruin the centerpost agitator and bearing seals (I have first-hand experience with that). I would imagine that your machine (cabinet) is rocking with a leg missing? If so, the torque of that rocking motion while the machine is spinning can cause permanent damage to the centerpost, especially if heavily loaded.
If you unplug the terminals on the switch, I don't know how the timer is going to react to an open circuit.
My garage floor is sloped a bit also - if you adjust the front legs to be level, the rear legs will adjust to accomodate. I would put a shim under the machine if you insist on using it this way.
The part number for the leg is 358594. Still available at Sears and on ebay, surely at a parts house too.
Gordon
Just get a leveling leg - Whirlpool still makes them and they are less than 10-bucks. The switch is designed to protect the machine, and running a belt-drive on a badly unleveled surface can and will very quickly ruin the centerpost agitator and bearing seals (I have first-hand experience with that). I would imagine that your machine (cabinet) is rocking with a leg missing? If so, the torque of that rocking motion while the machine is spinning can cause permanent damage to the centerpost, especially if heavily loaded.
If you unplug the terminals on the switch, I don't know how the timer is going to react to an open circuit.
My garage floor is sloped a bit also - if you adjust the front legs to be level, the rear legs will adjust to accomodate. I would put a shim under the machine if you insist on using it this way.
The part number for the leg is 358594. Still available at Sears and on ebay, surely at a parts house too.
Gordon
strongenough78
Well-known member
Don't forget to post the video lol.
